View Full Version : Need help with Bleach shihakushō pattern

03-01-2009, 09:27 PM
I'm making the shihakushō for my Ukitake (Bleach) cosplay for AnimeBoston in May.





This is a good picture of the sleeves>>>


I am having a hard time choosing which pattern for the kosode/keikogi/juban whatever you want to call it. I'm going to use the same pattern for the under and over version. I guess the most popular or known patterns are

Simplicity 4080


Simplicity 2940


McCall 2940


McCall 4953


None of them are exactly what I need, I'm prepared to alter them with a friends help, but this will be my first cosplay so I'm looking for someone's advice who has experience with using any of these (or perhaps knows of one more accurate to the Bleach manga/anime?). Which do you think is the better of the four? I'm not looking for historically accurate but more so to the anime because I know the shape of the sleeves is a bit longer and wider than normal so which would be easiest to work with? Also, if someone knows of a pattern for the haori, that would be great. Should I just use the same pattern as the keikogi just a size up and longer (and obviously, I have a thicker material, twill I believe)? If anyone has any suggestions, it would be a big help. I've put this off for far to long. Thanks in advance!


03-02-2009, 11:29 AM
Speaking from having made a Hanatarou outfit and several random garments just for fun, and being in the process of making a Kenshin outfit, let me first say that commercial patterns for period garments are almost always much more complicated than they need to be. You don't even really need a pattern. All you need is a set of measurements, and some know-how.

Measurements that you'll need are shoulder to a bit below the knee (call it A), shoulder to middle of your sternum (call it B), around the widest part of your torso with some extra (call it C), neckbone to wherever you want the sleeves to end (call it D), waist to just above the ankle (call it E), and your waist measurement (call it F).

Cutting list for kosode/kimono/black and white upper garments:
2 fronts measuring A x C/4-4 inches
2 backs measuring A x C/4
2 front extenstions measuring A-B x 7 inches (you'll cut a right triangle off each, with the perpedicular edges measuring 7 inches and A/2, respectively)
2 sleeves measuring 2B x D - C/4
1 collar measuring A + 18 inches x 7 inches

Cutting list for hakama:
2 front panels measuring E x 2(C/3)
2 back panels measuring E x C/3
1 gusset measuring 8 x 8 inches
1 front sash measuring 6 x 3F+20 inches
1 back sash measuring 6 x F+30 inches

Cutting list for haori:
exactly the same as kimono/kosode, only without the front extenstions and the collar is 2A + 8 inches x 7 inches

Overall, the hardest part of assembly is pleating the hakama-- the rest is fairly straight forward. I've found this site (http://fibers.destinyslobster.com/Japanese/Clothes/japmake.htm) to be quite useful for directions, if you need them.

03-02-2009, 11:56 AM
Because I prefer having something tangible instead of something that has measurements that aren't set out in a particular way (I know how to translate measurements, but I like having the visual in case I have someone else helping me to cut pieces), I went with the Simplicity 4080 because it has the gaps in the bottom of the sleeves while the others don't... then altered it like mad. Granted, I was making Ichigo's Execution Grounds outfit and not the regular one (yet) but still, if you're like me and like to work from a base when you're strapped for time or like the idea of having something to follow instead of translating measurements to get widths and the like, the Simplicity 4080 is a good one. You WILL need to adjust the sleeves for the one underneath though because they're not the same. Thankfully, Ichigo's outfit required me to fasten the two together or risk it falling off my shoulder all the time so I just shortened the armseye and belled the sleeve a bit to give it the same shape at the forearm.

It's difficult to fit something to yourself without some sort of dressform. It requires a lot of patience, pin/try on/adjust pins/take off/re-pin/try on/sew/pray you got it right or grab the seam ripper/etc. Fortunately, a kimono/kosode doesn't require it to be hugging body contours so you've got a lot more freedom and leeway.

The haori can be made off the same pattern by removing section that begins to angle outward (just fold it over - on the pattern, it's where the front piece starts to do this: \ ) The collar piece is just a section that's the same length plus an additional 8 inches for around the back of the neck. Only thing to remember is that the underside of that piece is the same colour as the lining and not white! Another thing to note is that it only falls to mid shin while the Simplicity pattern is ankle length. You'll wanna pin the pattern at the shoulder and set it in place on your own shoulder to mark where you want your bottom hem to be then extend that a little bit for your seam allowance (model sheets are love when it comes to figuring general lengths).

If you want a "pattern" for the hakama, I have the instructions for it that I dug out of our costume resource binder and photocopied in the costume shop at school. It made it a lot easier for me to follow since I couldn't make heads or tails out of the instructions I found online. I prefer having actual measurements instead of "multiply this, divide this, fold here, cross your fingers, and pray you know how to divide and multiply when you start getting fractions because your waist size isn't the same as what I used".

03-04-2009, 04:16 AM
Thanks for the advice both of you. I think I'm going to stick for 4080 because think I know what you mean when you say you prefer something tangible to work with. This will be my first time and generally I'm pretty good at directions where I can just follow step-by-step as opposed to something more abstract and relying on my non-existant experience. If anyone has any other input, I'm going to delay for purchase a few days. If anyone out there has worked with any of these or any suggestions I'm all ears! THANKS AGAIN.