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View Full Version : Proper names of Shinigami garments (need Japanese dress informants)


Connecticut
08-03-2010, 01:52 PM
So, I'm going to be making a shinigami cosplay over the next few months (not a specific character, but the outfit itself), and in order to sew the outfit, I need to know the proper names of each piece of the outfit so I can find instructions on how to sew them. I'm aiming for authenticity.

So far I'm aware of the waraji, tabi and hakama. (I was informed that Bleach hakama are not actual hakama, but that's okay because I will be replacing them with actual hakama anyway since I don't understand what's going on in the pictures).

Right now I need to know what the tops are called (both inner shirt and jacket if they have different names), because I'm looking into finding the right instructions for them.

Inoli
08-03-2010, 03:17 PM
my spelling is probably all over the charts but going to Romanji to a dyslexic person ha,.... but hopefully it helps.
White under top: Juban
Black top: Kimono
least this is what I've been informed. I too use hakuma for my Bleach costumes, they're SUPER Comfortable [easy to make after you understand the instructions]
some tips I Learned: The Juban's arm bits are closed up so when the arms are raised you dont see skin but you see the white juban under the black kimono sleeve. I totally missed this and well now my juban fits awkwardly and eventually I'll remake it. Warning for most Kimono patterns... they have you sew up the back of the sleeve. if you have a Yukata or a kimono you'll see only thte bottom bit is sewn so as to be a purse/pocket. Bleach kimonos dont have the "pocket" and are open on both the front and back side so that is something to keep in mind.
Hopefully this helps some!

Connecticut
08-03-2010, 05:51 PM
No problem! Juban and kimono are both spelled right.

By "arm bits" you mean the armpits, right? And by "back" of the sleeve, you also mean the armpits, and by "bottom bit" you mean the armpits, right?

I'm just checking to make sure we're on the same page.

Inoli
08-03-2010, 07:42 PM
Haha.... spell check sometimes I worry.
Yes Arm Pits not bits :thumbsup:
when it comes to the Kimono the "back" of the sleeve is simply that. It's a large rectangle made into a tube and attached to the main of the outfit only at the shoulders sew down along the sleeve and the main kimono [as in the chest part] till just under the arm. This keeps the sleeve on but keeps the "armPit" open. This is of course how I do it so it may or may not be 100% Authentic
did grab this diagram (http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/e/e9/Kimono_parts.png/550px-Kimono_parts.png) from a rather informative site (http://www.citizendia.org/Kimono)
what you're doing there is preserving the "Miyatsukuchi" as labeled on the site.

bottom bit is the bottom half of the sleeve, the opening for the arm is called the "Sodeguchi". From there it's sewn down as a pocket, with Bleach, it's open so the Sodeguchi is the whole sleeve.
For the Shinigami looking up parts of the Shikakusho is a good start http://bleach.neoseeker.com/wiki/Shihakusho <3

there's a WONDERFUL amount of information on Shrine maiden uniforms as well just, perhaps Wiki it? ^^;;; Sometimes its hard to find what your looking for online just cause well....online vs Library works for once.... library or even a book store wins with accuracy and good books. Looking up historical outfits under the time period they were worn can sometimes help, I did that with one of my Chinese Hanfu [12 kingdoms and Saiyinkoku] and it sorta helped. I do hope this actually gives you an idea and somewhat helpful ^^;; I tend to just babble. do feel free to poke with questions and if I said anything confusing again V.v; [too much sun not enough water shrivels the brain XD]

CapsuleCorp
08-03-2010, 08:02 PM
The terms I've heard are the ones from the neoseeker Bleach wiki - shitagi and kosode. Shitagi is a generic term, though, for an undergarment. They're both pretty much just kimono, but the outer black one has the sleeve seam opening.

Where did you find information that the shihakusho hakama are not really hakama? As far as I know they're hakama, plain and simple.

Connecticut
08-03-2010, 08:33 PM
The terms I've heard are the ones from the neoseeker Bleach wiki - shitagi and kosode. Shitagi is a generic term, though, for an undergarment. They're both pretty much just kimono, but the outer black one has the sleeve seam opening.

Where did you find information that the shihakusho hakama are not really hakama? As far as I know they're hakama, plain and simple.

Some guy on another website informed me. Since the hakama in the artworks don't quite look like actual hakama, I took his word for it.

In either case the pants I'm making would look the same anyway.

CapsuleCorp
08-04-2010, 09:06 PM
Don't take his word for it. They're actual hakama. The hakama I made using a historically-accurate Folkwear pattern look exactly like the ones drawn in the art. Backboard and everything. The only "non-realistic" part of the look is how many jagged lines are sometimes drawn around the ankle to suggest pleats. That's just lazy art, nothing more.

The only real difference that I've seen is that the himo (ties) of the hakama are white, and don't run through the backboard in the back, whereas modern martial arts hakama will have thinner himo the same color as the hakama, sewn down to look like the back himo is threaded through the backboard. My pattern actually dictated that that's how it should go. So, in order to do accurate-to-Bleach hakama, you just sew the back himo so that no white is showing on top of the black.

Inoli
08-04-2010, 10:16 PM
.... with traditional hakuma nothign laces through the backboard. you have a little "tottle" I guess woudl be the best way of saying it that literaly tucks into the himo to keep the backboard in place. The folk wear pattern was made so you dont ahve to worry about making and or using the toggle to keep your backboard upright ^^

once you really look at the art, its not laziness its jsut a differnt style. The front and the back of the hakuma are far more narrow then traditional hakuma. The guy might have been misinformed but not totally off ^^. For reality and since we're not all skinny minis and are real humans, hakuma the way they are traditionally made look better. But you already figured that one out right CapsuleCorp ;D

CapsuleCorp
08-05-2010, 07:39 PM
That's a different historical period of hakama. The Folkwear pattern I believe is Heian era, the ones without the backboard are from a different era. I don't know which specificially. Both types of hakama are legitimate, the ones as drawn in Bleach happen to be Heian period.

I know I didn't use the right words to describe the situation with the backboard and the himo correctly. It's one of those things that comes across much better with pictures, and I don't have any. But suffice it to say, anyone with a few reference pictures and the pattern in hand can figure out "oh, but if I do it THAT way, there'll be white showing. I don't want white showing. So I'll sew it HERE instead of HERE and voila, it looks correct!"

I do highly recommend the Folkwear pattern incidentally. It's expensive, at $15, but it's SO worth it. The instructions are detailed so that even beginners won't totally fail with it.