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AVAAntares
09-15-2007, 04:48 PM
I have received several PMs from aspiring FMA cosplayers asking about patterns for the butt-capes, military jackets, etc. Since there seems to be some demand for it, I've decided to post a little walk-through!

This tutorial covers pattern design for the FMA military uniforms, as worn by Roy Mustang, Riza Hawkeye, Maes Hughes, et al. It includes design instruction for pants, butt-cape and military jacket. It does NOT include step-by-step assembly instructions ("ease from notch A to circle D and gather the whosit with a whatsit stitch"), because you really, really don't want me to talk about sewing. Why not?

Our FMA costume set -- Ed, Roy, Riza, Hughes, Sciezka -- were the first things my sister or I had ever made from scratch, save for the follow-the-lines home economics projects we were forced to do in school many, many years ago. We have since gone on to make many other costumes and win many awards -- for whatever that's worth -- but the fact still remains that I have had NO formal sewing instruction, so my costume assembly might not make sense from a practical sewing standpoint; I'm still trying to learn the correct sewing terminology, rather than "stitch the thing to that other thing."

I do, however, have something of a grasp on 3-D design and pattern invention. Go figure. :D


Okay. Disclaimer over. Now, on to the costumes.


FABRIC CHOICE

This is critical -- for a military uniform to look like a military uniform, you will want to choose an appropriate and functional fabric. I used trigger poplin, which worked nicely, though the blue color can wash out a bit under flash. You'll want a fabric that breathes, that holds its shape well, and that looks like something a uniform would be made from (i.e., probably not satin or pleather, unless you're doing a distinct variant).

Also keep in mind that you're trying to match the look of the anime. Match your colors and fabric textures. Some cosplayers choose to use a darker navy blue fabric for their uniforms, which is absolutely fine if that's the look you want, but if you're entering in craftsmanship you might want to think about those accuracy points. ^_^ This also applies to the uniform trim, which is *grey,* not silver, in the source material. It is never represented as being shiny.

So, all that to say, choose your materials wisely. :)



PANTS

The military pants have a high waistband, are fitted at the top, and blouse dramatically in the legs. To me, they resemble nothing so much as M.C. Hammer pants... ^_^

The easiest method is to start with an existing pants pattern and alter it. Choose a cut that will fit your figure nicely through the hips and butt. The pants should be fitted; you don't want any extra fabric making wrinkles under your butt-cape. Look at suit pants, jeans, etc.

What you're looking for: The pants should have a high, fitted waist, NO PLEATS, and jeans-style pockets in front. (I do not have a pattern number to share, because I modeled my pants on a pair of khakis: I tried on pants until I found the right fit, then cut them apart and traced them to make a pattern. I don't necessarily recommend this method, as it's messy and confusing for a total neophyte.) ^_^ If anyone finds The Perfect Pants Pattern, please share with the group!

Pattern modification (see FIG. A, below):

The military pants pants are bloused and floofy all the way down the legs. Because that is a singularly unflattering cut in real life, I chose to modify it slightly for my costume. I flared the legs gradually, starting from mid-thigh, so that they blouse out over my boots but do not make my hips and thighs look like any bigger than they are. This also has the effect of making me look taller (which was important at the time, as our Ed cosplayer was actually three inches taller than me -- and that's just not right!).

To flare your pants, hold a measuring tape in a wide loop around your calf to decide how poofy you want your pants to be. Using that measurement as a guide, add the appropriate number of inches to each side of the pattern at the widest part of the leg (mid-calf). Then trace a line from that new point back to the point where you want the flare to start (mid-thigh). To get the smooth, rounded look of the FMA pants, curve the line slightly so it bells out away from the leg. At the ankle, curve the line back in toward the leg.

I tapered the bottom 6-8" of the legs in so that they are very narrow at the ankle. That way I can tuck them comfortably into my boots without getting blisters from excess fabric. It also helps keep the wide part of the pants bloused out properly over the boots.

The waistband of your pants pattern will probably need to be doubled in width, at least; the military waistbands should be at least 2.5"-3" wide, depending on your own body type. **Make sure the waistband hits your body at your natural waist, instead of low on your hips.** The butt-cape belt must lie flat over the waistband, and if the pants sit too low, the butt-cape will not hang properly on your body.



BUTT-CAPE

The butt-cape is my favorite part of the costume -- I drafted it as a long A-line, which is flattering to everyone's figure. It also hides a multitude of sins (namely, the too-tight pants I'm wearing...).

There are two secrets to making a good butt-cape. First is the shape: An A-line angles out all the way down, making your figure taller, slimmer and more dynamic. The pattern for the butt-cape will look like a trapezoid cut in half (see FIG. B). The center back line of the butt-cape will be straight up-and down, along the fabric grain. The outside (front) line will run at an angle, so the bottom edge is much longer than the top edge.

When you sew the center back seam, you will end up with the full trapezoid shape. When wrapped around your body, the fabric will flare out at the bottom and give you the nice inverted funnel shape (see PLATE 1).

Secret #2 of a good butt-cape: INTERFACING. Nobody wants a saggy, limp butt-cape! ^_^ Sandwich a layer of interfacing between your layers of blue fabric so that it holds its shape and does not fall straight down around your legs. Use at least a medium weight interfacing (about the stiffness of copy paper or heavier), so it stays crisp and smooth.

Butt-cape Waistbelt (I just invented a term!):

The waistbelt attaches to the top edge of the butt-cape and holds it in place. The waistbelt should be sized long enough to wrap once around your waist with the end of the belt reaching the start of the fabric panel on the opposite side of your body (see FIG. C). The two silver buttons on the front of the belt hold the butt-cape on. Depending on the type of fabric you use for the belt, you can either make button-holes for these buttons and attach them properly to the belt that goes underneath, or you can fake the belt-fastening with hook-and-eye fasteners or snaps and just sew the silver buttons on the outside of the belt. (I did the latter, as I was using nylon web for the belt, and web does not handle buttonholes well...)

Leather belt:

Riza's leather belt, on which hang her holster and ammo pouch, attaches over the silver buttons with overall fasteners. This is a separate piece that snaps on and off; it is not attached to the butt-cape.


Continued in next post...


02/11 UPDATE: Panda Majik has kindly created a downloadable uniform pattern, posted here (http://animeinsights.com/2011/02/07/roy-mustang-cosplay/). It's much more comprehensive than my rough pencil sketches below, and can be scaled and printed!

AVAAntares
09-15-2007, 04:50 PM
Military Jackets

The jackets are by far the most difficult and complicated costume piece. Making Riza's sniper rifle took me two weeks; making the FMA jackets correctly took me five months. Much of that time was wasted trying to modify commercial patterns, such as the Civil War pattern and various jacket patterns.

A word on commercial patterns: Do not use them for this piece. The FMA jackets are four-panel jackets with a very square cut, a single straight seam running down the back, and no tailoring to speak of. The patterns you find in stores are not built like this. Some have more than four panels, and almost all are designed with darts or princess seams to make them flattering to your body. The FMA jackets are not tailored; if you look at a picture of Roy Mustang, you'll see that his coat is shaped more like a box than a suit coat.

PLATE 2 is a photo of my actual cobbled-together paper patterns, but as that is messy and hard to see, I have drawn out the rough shape of each piece, so refer to FIG. D for details. The proportions of these pieces will change depending on the size of the individual, so the best method is to draw them out, make a rough mock-up, and then measure on your body to determine exactly how wide each piece should be and where the sleeves, etc. should go.

The "center line" shown on the patterns is just a guide to help you in sizing and assembling the jacket; when the whole thing is sewn together, that point should be lined up on all of the pieces.

As stated in the first post, I don't trust my sewing terminology enough to give step-by-step sewing instructions; the assembly is not much different than any other kind of shirt or jacket, so if you read through a set of standard jacket pattern instructions you should be able to figure it out. ^_^ There are a few tricky places, though, so here are some pointers:


- As with most patterns, you're going to be cutting two of each piece, except for C and F -- you'll need four of each of those.
- Use interfacing in between the layers of fabric, especially for the fold-back panel on the front, to keep the jacket looking smooth and flat.
- Piece F (the sleeve cuff) should be cut on the fold of the fabric, as marked. After you have interfaced the cuff and sewn the short ends of the two pieces together, bias-tape around the upper edges (flat edge, two short angled edges). Then make the cuff into a circle and hand-sew the lower half half of the short ends together. (This will produce the half-notch on the outside of the cuff.) Line this seam up with the sleeve seam when you sew the cuffs to the sleeves.
- Be sure to pin the epaulets into the sleeve hole before you attach the sleeves; they need to be sewn in with the sleeve (see PLATE 3).


PLATE 4 (minus the wrinkles -- the girly mannequin is too small for it) ^_^ is a basic jacket produced using this pattern. Depending on the decoration you choose for the epaulets and fruit salad, it can become any member of the military -- Roy Mustang, Maes Hughes, Riza Hawkeye, Jean Havoc, Sciezka...

If you have additional questions, feel free to PM me, and I'll answer to the best of my ability. If you have a technique that works better than what I've posted, then please share! :)

blackcat523
09-15-2007, 06:35 PM
very nicely done. Now I don't feel so bad. I thought the waist band on mine was huge, but it falls within what you put down for the pants (mine is 2-3/4" big).

And since I'm not the greatest at sewing myself (trying to get hooks to line up and such proved to be too much for me). My own butt cape has Velcro for the butt cape waist belt. This way I can adjust it should I need to depending on comfort.

The buttons I have on mine are there for show but they also serve a purpose for something to attach my gun belt too. I used covered buttons (sold at walmart) that way I could match the fabric of the accent lines nicely and they wouldn't stand out so badly in photographs And my belt is home made, but not leather. I couldn't find any that would suit my needs and was within my budget. After shelling out for all the fabric and other things.

my butt cape (http://images.cosplay.com/showphoto.php?photo=988416)

Riza's not the only character that carries a gun.

I also had to put a snap at the top of the neck, one in the middle under the flap and two on th side to keep the jacket closed. I'm not sure how others do it but that's what worked for me.

Also for the epaulets, I found it easier to decorate them with the strips before attaching them fully to the jacket. Otherwise there's alot more fabric to move around and to work with once they are attached. I cheated and sewed the edge of the epaulet to the seam and folded it over and attached it just under the collar. I also put stitches on either side of where I wanted the cording to go to keep it from sliding around my arm all day. I know cheating, but it worked for me. I also used gold flat round buttons and military stars for the epaulets. I thought it gave a more authentic feel to the uniform. I also used denim for my outfit. Yes not trigger or such, but it fit the color and also breaths really well for those hot cons.


You may also want to put in something about the collar. The FMA collars stand up, they don't lie flat. I've found using a thicker interfacing works for me.

And with mine I did cheat. I know the jackets were to have a seam up the back, but I can never get them to line up entirely right. The back of my jacket is all one piece. IT was more to make it easy for me then anything else. Also on my jacket the flap on mine is a separate piece that I attached. It took me a bit to get the sizing right.

It was my first outfit after all. And since there were no real how to's *until now* I had to play it by ear. I think it turned out well enough and I Have had some people say they liked how my outfit looks in matter of detail. It's also survived 3 cons and counting

AVAAntares
09-15-2007, 06:47 PM
Good point about the epaulets; it's much easier to add the detail before attaching them to the coat.

Yes, by all means, interface the collar. The collar should stand up, nearly vertical (as seen in Plate 3, above, which is our Roy Mustang jacket). But don't interface it *too* heavily; our Hughes had trouble turning his head because we made his collar so tall and stiff! :D

Lothlin
09-15-2007, 07:24 PM
<.< This actually helps a bit for my Jade Curtiss cosplay. The tailoring is a good bit different(with being a different series entirely ><), but it still gives me a great base to work off of. I've been worried about getting the military look down.

Thanks for posting <3

Shinteetah
09-15-2007, 10:47 PM
I'd like to add just one note to AVAAntares' explanation above -- Plate 4 (http://forums.cosplay.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=25680&d=1189893007) shows a modified collar (for a less-vertically-gifted cosplayer) and is not accurate to the source. Plate 3 (http://forums.cosplay.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=25679&d=1189893000) is more what the finished product should be. This matters for competition and for cosplay detail nazis /cough/.

Also (two notes!) I can't emphasize enough the importance of doing a mock-up for this particular costume. It took us five tries to get a pattern that worked well. (Look how much time you've saved already by checking the forums!) It really should not fit like any current popular fashion, and you should make sure you have a working pattern before trying to mash it into shape on yourself.

Also for the epaulets, I found it easier to decorate them with the strips before attaching them fully to the jacket.

Absolutely! As you can see in Plate 3 (http://forums.cosplay.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=25679&d=1189893000), that stitching would have been nigh-impossible to do afterward. Plan ahead! :D (Not that I didn't, several times, attach a sleeve and forget to insert the stupid epaulet...! Plan ahead, indeed.)

It's also survived 3 cons and counting

/nod nod nod/ I love our FMA group and it's been worn to about a dozen different events thus far -- machine-washed each time, of course. Good materials should make these very durable costumes and you can wear them forever!

AVAAntares
09-15-2007, 11:16 PM
...shows a modified collar (for a less-vertically-gifted cosplayer)

Spoken like a TRUE Ed cosplayer. :D

/nod nod nod/ I love our FMA group and it's been worn to about a dozen different events thus far -- machine-washed each time, of course. Good materials should make these very durable costumes and you can wear them forever!

Yes! I should point out that the butt-cape and Roy Mustang jacket I photographed for my examples have been in steady use for the last two years. They're certainly broken in, but it says something that they still look that good after two years of being worn, washed, danced in, stuffed in boxes, driven to cons in five states, and generally abused.

(I did experience my first Riza costume failure at the last con, though, when I actually lost a button on my butt-cape -- oh, no! -- and had to pin it back on. Maybe if I hadn't hung the camera on my belt...) ^_^

blackcat523
09-16-2007, 01:59 AM
(I did experience my first Riza costume failure at the last con, though, when I actually lost a button on my butt-cape -- oh, no! -- and had to pin it back on. Maybe if I hadn't hung the camera on my belt...) ^_^


Which is why I have spares of all the buttons on my outfits and an emergency sewing kit kept with me at all times at the con's. You never know when you can save someone with just a needle and thread and be their hero (makes the military look good after all). I've had to only replace 2 buttons on mine. 1 fell off the butt cape at the bottom Fanime 2008 (I've fixed it so it won't happen again.) and the other fell off the waist belt of the but cape, otakon 2008. I believe I've fixed that problem too (dam shoddy thread, and the fact that I hang my belt off that button too. If it pops off my belt falls off, so it's a sure sign something happened). But without emergencies like that you never know what tricks you can come up with. I found having a few safety pins hidden on me helps in those little emergencies. I may be a newb at sewing, but I always try to plan for the what ifs.

I think my next thing to do on my outfit is to figure out how to put an eye hook on the neck line to close the collar a bit more on mine for photo shoots. If I close the collar it stands up right, if not it wants to lay down.

Lady Ashe
09-16-2007, 02:20 AM
Awesome tutorial, thank you so much for posting this! I'm so happy to finally know how to make this. Your the best AVAAntares!

Kaits
09-17-2007, 01:41 PM
This is really great. Very well done. I've been wanting to make some FMA millitary uniforms for my brothers and didn't know where to start. Thanks so much! :D

LadyHawke78
09-17-2007, 01:59 PM
I think a lot of FMA cosplayers will be thanking you for this, AVAAntares.

Me? Hell-- you're just making me want to make a sniper-rifle now...

silent_dreaming
09-18-2007, 12:43 AM
Thank you so much for this tutorial! Before, I was planning on modifying (butchering) a Victorian waistcoat pattern, but this will be so much easier. Again, thank you, thank you!

nadesico81
09-18-2007, 02:37 AM
Sound good except one thing You mentioned that the pants are bloused and thats a good thing. Thats all well and good but I have found that useing Cuff Stufers instead of blouseing straps work much better. They make the end of the pants look much better above the boots.

LadyHawke78
09-18-2007, 07:18 AM
Sound good except one thing You mentioned that the pants are bloused and thats a good thing. Thats all well and good but I have found that useing Cuff Stufers instead of blouseing straps work much better. They make the end of the pants look much better above the boots.

Can you get those via most military surplus site as well? I've seen blousing straps almost everywhere, but never these "cuff stuffers" you speak of...

stardust462
09-18-2007, 10:19 AM
The pants should have a high, fitted waist, NO PLEATS, and jeans-style pockets in front.
Haha, that "no pleats" comment makes me think of "What Not To Wear." They look so bad on most people, especially women.

This is really, really helpful. Thanks so much for putting this up. In about a month or so I'm going to start my Maria Ross or Sheska costume (haven't decided which one to do yet) and I'll be sure to use this. Especially the part about fabric choice.

About how much fabric and trim do you recommend to get to make one costume? I read over the tutorial a couple of times but I didn't see any mention of it (sorry if it was).

LadyHawke78
09-18-2007, 02:00 PM
Haha, that "no pleats" comment makes me think of "What Not To Wear."

OMG, I think I love you. XD
WNTW is my favorite show!

I just got done actually READING some of the other posts in this thread (other than the actual tutorial itself) and BlackCat, I never would have guessed you made your costume out of denim. I saw it in person @ Otakon, and still I never would ave guessed. You still earn bonus points for cosplaying Maria Ross.

Hmmm... trigger poplin... machine washable. Good call. I have been scared to machine wash my jacket and butt-cape (due to the interfacing and trim.) They've been dry-cleaned twice and hand-washed about three times.

Re: Interfacing. What kind did you use? I know you said "medium grade", but was it sew-in, fusable, etc? My commissioner used full military grade interfacing (the black stuff.) Man is that sh!t hardcore. She still regrets not putting it in the collar too, but via a lot of careful futzing around (with nearly invisible stitches...) I managed to get my collar to stand up well nonetheless-- consideirng my pins are metal and freakin' HEAVY.

Decent photo of my collar... (http://www.cosspace.com/user/gallery/view/name_GingerAnne/id_32038/album_6905/) It still likes to do weird things sometimes. Also I need to stitch down my epaulettes. They are doing strange things in this picture.

Oh, and did anyone else use shoulder-pads in their jackets? I added HUGE 1" thick ones after the fact. The girl I commissioned the jacket from was nearly my size/height etc., but had wider shoulders. She kind of based it off of her measurements, and I needed something to fill out my shoulders...

AVAAntares
09-18-2007, 02:15 PM
About how much fabric and trim do you recommend to get to make one costume? I read over the tutorial a couple of times but I didn't see any mention of it (sorry if it was).

I didn't list fabric quantity because, honestly, after we made and altered and re-made the four military costumes, we had gone through something like 40 or 45 yards of fabric, and I have no idea how much was used for each person. We frequently bought out the fabric store's entire supply of royal blue trigger.

BUT, barring all of our mistakes and re-makes :) , you're probably looking at 6 to 9 yards of blue fabric per costume, depending on the size of the cosplayer. (Remember, everything is two layers.) Those numbers do not include lining (pants) or interfacing (jacket, butt-cape).

A VERY rough estimate, by individual pieces:

I'm 5'4", 125 lbs. My butt-cape took about 3 yds. of fabric; my pants took about 2 yds.

Roy is 5'11", ~180 lbs.? His butt-cape took about 3.5 yds., his pants took about 2.5 yds., and his jacket was at least 3 yds.

If you're super efficient with your pattern layout and fabric cutting, you could probably shrink those numbers slightly. We made a lot of mistakes and had to re-cut some pieces as we were experimenting. :)

As far as trim... my sister recommends buying stock in a bias tape company, if you're doing a group. ^_^ Pick up at least two packages (6 yds.) per uniform. Maybe more, depending on size.

AVAAntares
09-18-2007, 02:27 PM
Hmmm... trigger poplin... machine washable. Good call. I have been scared to machine wash my jacket and butt-cape (due to the interfacing and trim.) They've been dry-cleaned twice and hand-washed about three times.

Oh, yes. Machine-washable is a good thing. And trust me, they DO get washed after cons! No fanboy funk for us. ^_^

Re: Interfacing. What kind did you use? I know you said "medium grade", but was it sew-in, fusable, etc? My commissioner used full military grade interfacing (the black stuff.) Man is that sh!t hardcore. She still regrets not putting it in the collar too, but via a lot of careful futzing around (with nearly invisible stitches...) I managed to get my collar to stand up well nonetheless-- consideirng my pins are metal and freakin' HEAVY.

It was definitely fusible. I love fusible interfacing. :D It's been a couple years, so I can't remember the exact type, but it was in the medium-to-heavy range. I know that for Ed's red coat, we used a heavy craft interfacing -- and it was so stiff that Shinteetah could quite literally walk out of the coat and leave it standing on the floor! (A couple years of hard wear and dryer-breakdown have softened it to merely Very Stiff, instead of Stands Up On Its Own.)

I think I may have even double-interfaced the uniform collars to make them stand up. Our collar pins are also metal, but I made them very light; they're engraved pewter foil wrapped over a cardstock base. You can see them in this picture (http://forums.cosplay.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=25679&d=1189893000), though they're a little scratched up after traveling to so many cons. ^_^

LadyHawke78
09-18-2007, 03:03 PM
Our collar pins are also metal, but I made them very light; they're engraved pewter foil wrapped over a cardstock base. You can see them in this picture (http://forums.cosplay.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=25679&d=1189893000), though they're a little scratched up after traveling to so many cons. ^_^


Oh-- so THAT is how you made them (foil.) I never would have guessed. I thought they were perhaps sculpey or resin...

Re: Yardage. My seamstress used 6 yards of material and 3 yards of lining for all of my stuff (only the jacket and butt-cape are lined) and I'm 5'9" and change, and around 150. Don't get me started on the trim. I can't recall yardage for that because I did not use commercial bias trim, I made the sh!t myself. Drove me CRAZY.

stardust462
09-18-2007, 04:08 PM
OMG, I think I love you. XD
WNTW is my favorite show!

..............

Oh, and did anyone else use shoulder-pads in their jackets? I added HUGE 1" thick ones after the fact. The girl I commissioned the jacket from was nearly my size/height etc., but had wider shoulders. She kind of based it off of her measurements, and I needed something to fill out my shoulders...

Although I totally understand why you used shoulder pads and I would have too, I just find it funny to see WNTW and the use of shoulder pads in the same post. Could you imagine a cosplay version of WNTW?

Anyways, back on topic, I think shoulder pads in general would work well with the uniform. But not huge ones like women wore in the 80's (yuck). I think it would add more the box-like structure.

My commissioner used full military grade interfacing (the black stuff.)

Is that fusable? Where can you buy that stuff? Sounds interesting.

LadyHawke78
09-18-2007, 04:14 PM
Although I totally understand why you used shoulder pads and I would have too, I just find it funny to see WNTW and the use of shoulder pads in the same post. Could you imagine a cosplay version of WNTW?

True. I cannot imagine that Stacy and Clinton would approve of my shoulder pads (even though they are not the 80's-style shoulder pads o' doom.) I must say that they HAVE drastically improved the look of the costume. Gives my shoulders a better appearance. not everyone needs them, but I have narrow shoulders.

FWIW, I have gotten regular fusable interfacing at my local JoAnn fabric. I've used it in puffy sleeves on costumes before. The military-grade stuff-- she got that at some huge fabric outlet in Massachusetts, I believe. Can't remember exactly where. I'll need to ask her.

nadesico81
09-18-2007, 04:16 PM
Can you get those via most military surplus site as well? I've seen blousing straps almost everywhere, but never these "cuff stuffers" you speak of...


You can get them Brigade Quartermaster. Cuff Stuffers are a bit hot but they will make any military uniform look Serra Hotel.

http://www.amazon.com/BQM-EXCLUSIVES-BDU-CUFF-STUFFER/dp/B0002BRON8/ref=sr_1_1/002-3151781-8203228?ie=UTF8&s=apparel&qid=1190150679&sr=8-1

blackcat523
09-18-2007, 06:38 PM
I do have shoulder pads for mine (the 1" variety) however for my shoots I didn't put them in (I have to remake the cording to put one in that side) otherwise it gives a really weird look to the outfit and it creates creases where their shouldn't be and ruins the look.

Yeah mine is denim, I bought out the fabric store of the fabric I used. If I remember correctly it was close to about 18 yards of fabric, though I only used half for my outfit (I do have some left over) the rest I sent to my friend to make her military uniform so we would at least match in color. She is Riza, I'm Ross. Since this was my first outfit I wanted to have more fabric then less, and yes I did make a few mistakes so it helped. I used around 9 yards and my friend used the other 9.

The pins I have are actual metal pins from Ebay and my collar doesn't like them. They are heavy and I've had to re-interface (with craft interfacing) my collar to get it to stand and it still likes to sag ever now and then (depending on how humid it is outside or where I'm at).

If I could find another batch of the color fabric I want (wouldn't you know once I bought them out they never got the same color back in stock) I would make another jacket. Since the one I wear is my first and I'm not afraid to tell anyone of the errors in it. I'd like to try my hands at making another. Would be nice to have 2 instead of one.

LadyHawke78
09-18-2007, 08:34 PM
You can get them Brigade Quartermaster. Cuff Stuffers are a bit hot but they will make any military uniform look Serra Hotel.

http://www.amazon.com/BQM-EXCLUSIVES-BDU-CUFF-STUFFER/dp/B0002BRON8/ref=sr_1_1/002-3151781-8203228?ie=UTF8&s=apparel&qid=1190150679&sr=8-1

THANKS, Fedora!

I am SO getting some of those for the photoshoot I have coming up at the end of the month!

Shayla
09-27-2007, 08:07 PM
Hey guys! ^^

I'm in the process of sewing my jacket, and my mom and I can't seem to find any wide pale-gray bias tape anywhere. What are you guys using for the light gray trim on the jackets and butt capes? And where did you find it?
I'd definately appreciate your input! ^^ Thanks.

stardust462
09-27-2007, 08:46 PM
I don't think light gray bias tape exists. For my Yuki Cross cosplay that I'm currently working on I needed light gray bias tape. I looked everywhere in stores and online, but could only find white and dark gray. I couldn't find light gray ribbon only, just silver.

Finally, I took white bias tape and painted it with gray fabric paint. I couldn't even find gray fabric paint, I had to mix white with a tiny bit of black. Right now it's drying in my basement and I hope it works out well.

I would love to see if anyone could find light gray bias tape. When I start my Maria Ross costume soon I don't want to have paint it again :/

Shinteetah
09-28-2007, 12:39 AM
We used Wrights brand bias tape. I don't recall the exact color name (and don't have a package to check), but it was a medium-grey color, not shiny. It looked light grey beside the royal blue trigger.

Ours was purchased at Joann. Wrights and Joann are big enough names, you ought to be able to locate it.

Man, I hope they didn't discontinue that color or anything! :eek:

AVAAntares
09-28-2007, 01:05 AM
As Shinteetah said, the bias tape in my tutorial reference photos is Wrights brand. Also, JoAnn DID sell grey ribbon at the time; I used it to make the wider arrow-shaped detail pieces on the front of the butt-cape (you can see it here (http://images.cosplay.com/showphoto.php?photo=974741)).

One side of the ribbon had a satin finish, but I flipped it over to the matte side for all of the costume detail, and it worked very well. It was maybe one shade lighter than the bias tape. I'd call it a "light grey," anyway. :)

If you can't find what you're looking for in the fabric section, try the floral or bridal section; they often have grey or pewter-colored ribbons there, too.

Shinteetah
09-28-2007, 03:09 PM
Bad news, gang -- I just spoke with Wrights, and they *did* discontinue that color! :bigcry: Also, the remaining grey had a "color shift," meaning they changed what they're offering.

So your options are:

1) Use the dark grey bias tape, testing against your chosen uniform fabric for best match.
2) Buy a single pack of dark grey and experiment with bleaching it uniformly. I wouldn't be too wildly enthusiastic about this until it's tested well. Wrights is intended to be color-fast, but it *can* fade.
3) Make your own bias tape from an appropriate grey fabric.
4) Use a matte ribbon instead. (Not shiny!)

Please post if you find another suitable alternative!

AVAAntares
09-28-2007, 03:47 PM
Here's the official Wrights color guide, if you want to compare available shades: http://www.wrights.com/wrights/products/sewing/pkgtapes/202.htm

Also, this site has fusible bias material in "lead grey" color: http://www.createforless.com/search/search.aspx?SH=D%3d15%7eG%3d21394%5e2%7e&gclid=CMfE5reB544CFRNhIgodsXbhMg

AVAAntares
09-28-2007, 03:54 PM
Addendum: I found a site that carries grey single-sided satin ribbon (the same type I used for my FMA uniforms) in various sizes and shades. The "pale grey" might be a good color. The store is located in the U.K., but it might be helpful for research:

http://www.ribbon.n.stuff.freeuk.com/Ribbon/Pages/Grey.html

Shayla
09-29-2007, 11:07 AM
Thanks for the suggestions, everyone!
It sucks that Wright discontinued the color...but I suppose that light gray isn't used much in business suits and related items...

I finally found a user on ebay who's selling a double-fold 0.5" bias tape by the yard (at a reasonable price, too!). So I'm ordering the tape through them. Hopefully the color is as correct as it looked in the preview picture of the product!

nadesico81
09-29-2007, 01:22 PM
Thanks for the suggestions, everyone!
It sucks that Wright discontinued the color...but I suppose that light gray isn't used much in business suits and related items...

I finally found a user on ebay who's selling a double-fold 0.5" bias tape by the yard (at a reasonable price, too!). So I'm ordering the tape through them. Hopefully the color is as correct as it looked in the preview picture of the product!

I found the right color Bias tape at my local UK sewing shop here. A few company's make Bias tape here in the UK. Its rather cheap and I found the right color today to match the old Wrights color. I just got my FMA uniform in the mail the other week and thought it would be nice to have the fabric and Bias tape in my cosplay repair kit.

It seems that none of the UK company's who make the bias tape in question ship to the USA. If you need help with geting the right color Bias tape plz email me and we can work some thing out.

Here is a pic of the Bias tape color I found aginst the Wrights color.

http://i26.photobucket.com/albums/c130/nadesico81/Cosplay/My%20Cosplay/P1000072.jpg

j_cameron
09-29-2007, 10:22 PM
Man, I'm going to have to start hunting online for the bias tape and so on! Either that, or buy out the store's stock of 55/45 poly/cotton bias tape and dye it. I've had some success with that before, by simply taking the fabric out of the dye bath before the full time has elapsed.

And, of course, blends dye lighter than 100% cotton fabrics. We'll have to see how this whole costume goes -- though I suspect I may be headed to the other store to buy all of THEIR royal blue poplin, as well!


EDIT: AVAAntares, what size bias tape would you recommend using for the butt-cape, and then the trim on the jacket? It may have been mentioned in the thread and I'm just not finding it; I'm guessing 1/2" double-fold for the butt-cape, at least?

Also, you said, "Use interfacing in between the layers of fabric ..." Do you mean line the entire jacket with interfacing, between the layers of fabric, as with the butt-cape, and put extra in the folded panel?

And what sort of hem size are we looking at on the cuffs and so on -- or is there not one because they have the tape to hide the edges?

AVAAntares
10-04-2007, 01:23 AM
Copy/pasting part of PM, since other people may have the same questions... ^_^

what size bias tape would you recommend using for the butt-cape, and then the trim on the jacket? It may have been mentioned in the thread and I'm just not finding it; I'm guessing 1/2" double-fold for the butt-cape, at least?

1/2" double-fold sounds good... ^_^; (I honestly don't remember what we used, but that sounds familiar.) We used the same size bias tape on the outer edges of both the jacket and the butt-cape. I think it gives it a more, well, "uniform" appearance. Pun intended. :p


Also, you said, "Use interfacing in between the layers of fabric ..." Do you mean line the entire jacket with interfacing, between the layers of fabric, as with the butt-cape, and put extra in the folded panel?

This depends partly on what kind of fabric you're using. If you're using poplin or denim or something heavy and kind of stiff, then you probably could get away with interfacing only the cuffs, collar, etc. If you're using a lighter weight fabric, then it's best to interface the whole jacket. It's been a couple years since I made an FMA jacket, but I *think* we interfaced the whole front, but not the back. I can't swear to that. We were also using two layers of trigger poplin, though, so it was fairly stiff on its own.

The sleeves are the exception; unless you're making the jacket from a bedsheet or something super-thin, you shouldn't need to interface the sleeves at all, especially if they're lined.


And what sort of hem size are we looking at on the cuffs and so on -- or is there not one because they have the tape to hide the edges?

When you draft your pattern, leave a seam allowance so you can finish the piece and flip it right-side-out. I think what we did was finish the entire jacket, flip it right-side-out through the center seam in the back of the lining, then sew up the lining-seam by hand. So all of the edges were finished, rolled out and pressed to a crisp edge before we put the bias tape on. It's much easier to put the bias tape over a finished edge; otherwise you can get puckers and lumps in your bias tape.

blackcat523
10-04-2007, 08:08 PM
This depends partly on what kind of fabric you're using. If you're using poplin or denim or something heavy and kind of stiff, then you probably could get away with interfacing only the cuffs, collar, etc. If you're using a lighter weight fabric, then it's best to interface the whole jacket. It's been a couple years since I made an FMA jacket, but I *think* we interfaced the whole front, but not the back. I can't swear to that. We were also using two layers of trigger poplin, though, so it was fairly stiff on its own.



Mine is made of denim . I only needed to interface the collar and the cuffs on mine. Eventually I'm going to make another outfit (darker blue) so I can have one of each color, light and dark.

Shinteetah
10-04-2007, 11:31 PM
It's been a couple years since I made an FMA jacket, but I *think* we interfaced the whole front, but not the back. I can't swear to that. We were also using two layers of trigger poplin, though, so it was fairly stiff on its own.

Chiming in.... We interfaced the overlapping front piece (piece "B" in the tutorial figure), but did not interface A or C. Again, trigger has some body of its own.

The sleeves are the exception; unless you're making the jacket from a bedsheet or something super-thin, you shouldn't need to interface the sleeves at all, especially if they're lined.

Some fabrics will need interfacing on those cuffs, as they are a bit large for lightweight materials.

j_cameron
10-06-2007, 03:04 AM
Chiming in.... We interfaced the overlapping front piece (piece "B" in the tutorial figure), but did not interface A or C. Again, trigger has some body of its own.



Some fabrics will need interfacing on those cuffs, as they are a bit large for lightweight materials.

Ooo, excellent! Just the tidbit of information I was looking for. :3 I'd expect two layers of the trigger to hold up nicely on their own, but some interfacing would look nice in that panel.

I'll throw some interfacing into the cuffs just to be on the safe side, though possibly something a bit lighter than I'll be using in the collar.

arion_naomi
10-06-2007, 09:33 PM
This is a nice tutorial. I just finished making the pattern for my boyfriend's military unifom for next year's Metro Con and then looking at this helped me to refine the pattern. I know some sewing terminology, having made costumes with my mom for a few years now. I haven't made anything this complicated before though. Looks like fun! I can't wait to start it!

Shayla
10-07-2007, 03:14 PM
Hey everyone!
The light grey bias tape that I ordered arrived last week, and it's fantastic.
The color is perfect, and it's folded very nicely.
The tape is 1/2" double fold, so you don't have to adjust the width; as it lines the outer and inner sides of your jacket.
I would highly suggest this tape for anyone looking for gray bias tape to use for you jacket ^^

For all those who are interested:
http://cgi.ebay.com/Light-Gray-Grey-1-2-Double-Fold-Bias-Tape-by-Yard-WF_W0QQitemZ160121383015QQihZ006QQcategoryZ11803QQ cmdZViewItem

j_cameron
10-07-2007, 10:04 PM
Hey everyone!
The light grey bias tape that I ordered arrived last week, and it's fantastic.
The color is perfect, and it's folded very nicely.
The tape is 1/2" double fold, so you don't have to adjust the width; as it lines the outer and inner sides of your jacket.
I would highly suggest this tape for anyone looking for gray bias tape to use for you jacket ^^

For all those who are interested:
http://cgi.ebay.com/Light-Gray-Grey-1-2-Double-Fold-Bias-Tape-by-Yard-WF_W0QQitemZ160121383015QQihZ006QQcategoryZ11803QQ cmdZViewItem

Aww, it's with the grain. D: Last time I tried working with not-really-bias tape, I found that I really do need it to be cut on the bias to get it to fit nicely around those really sharp corners (like the jackets have). Of course, I may have been doing it completely wrong -- that's always a good possibility.

I may buy a few yards and try to force it into cooperating, however, since you say the colour is good. Provided that my own efforts at dying my white bias tape to the appropriate grey fail.

Hopefully what you found works, and congrats on it being the right colour! :3 Thank you for sharing the resource, as well.

LadyHawke78
10-07-2007, 10:29 PM
OMG, just let me warn you about making your own bias tape. IT IS HELL. Srsly. I am not kidding.

I made my own bias trim for my uniform since my commissioner was driven crazy trying to figure it out. XD
TOOK ME FOREVER!! It was tedious, so you will need the patience of saint to stick with it. Of course, I decided to go the metallic route for all of my trim, so I used 2 way stretch vinyl. :eek:

ProTip: DO NOT DO THIS.

j_cameron
10-07-2007, 10:32 PM
OMG, just let me warn you about making your own bias tape. IT IS HELL. Srsly. I am not kidding.

I made my own bias trim for my uniform since my commissioner was driven crazy trying to figure it out. XD
TOOK ME FOREVER!! It was tedious, so you will need the patience of saint to stick with it. Of course, I decided to go the metallic route for all of my trim, so I used 2 way stretch vinyl. :eek:

ProTip: DO NOT DO THIS.

Well, there's a reason I own a handy little device to fold the stuff for me... but I do NOT want to deal with cutting it! So, I'm really hoping that my white stuff dyes. It has sufficient poly content not to dye too dark, I'm just hoping that it's not going to end up all weird and... heathery.

If that fails, I'm not sure what I'm going to do. I really do not want to make 10 yards or so of bias tape (especially when I'm totally swamped with making the rest of the costume) -- though oddly enough, I've met people who ENJOY doing this. O__o;

arion_naomi
10-11-2007, 12:47 AM
Making bias tape is annoying, my mom likes doing it though.. If I can't find any sufficient amount of tape, I'll have my mom do it. She's always complaining of boredum.... I do hope I can find some locally though, it will save time. I'm actually not going to start the costume for a few months yet. I've got a bunch of costume deadlines coming up. I can't wait to get started on this though, looks like fun (not the making biased tape thing.. the rest of the costume).

Speaking of this; under which fabric section would I find trigger poplin? (ie: Specialty, fasion, quilting, sports, etc.) I wouldn't know where to begin searching.

Concolor
10-15-2007, 04:35 PM
Okay, I'm doing this thing from scratch.

Enlighten me, j cameron, what is this little device you speak of to help with the folding of the bias tape. I have made my fair share by hand, and as such, it was ... not the most even... ahem. :3

j_cameron
10-15-2007, 04:54 PM
Okay, I'm doing this thing from scratch.

Enlighten me, j cameron, what is this little device you speak of to help with the folding of the bias tape. I have made my fair share by hand, and as such, it was ... not the most even... ahem. :3

Bias tape makers! I have a couple, because even though I don't use them very frequently, there are occasions where I'd be lost without them. Essentially you cut bias strips from your fabric and feed them through the bias maker, ironing as you pull them through. This ensures a neat and even fold along the entire length of the tape.

Here's a bit of info on using the maker, and cutting bias:

http://www.patemeadows.com/bias%20tape.htm
http://www.patemeadows.com/bias%20strips.htm


I'm still going to be trying to dye my own bias tape before going the long way, because while the tape makers make things easier, they're still time-consuming. Plus, my iron sucks. However, they're a lot neater than trying to do things without a guide. You can purchase bias tape makers (usually up to 1") at places like JoAnn's, and some quilting stores will carry larger (2") makers for making things like quilt binding.

Hope this helped! :3

Concolor
10-15-2007, 05:11 PM
Okay, you rock. I fear this is how I'll have to go (making tape), but I'll still keep looking.

As for the suit itself: I was trying to use the Civil War pattern as a guide, but it wound up... tight in the crotch.

Having actually been in the Army, I'm going to dismember one of my old, beat down BDU sets, and try it (having already respectfully removed all patches and insignia).

Can't get more authentic than that, can ya? :skidude2:

j_cameron
10-15-2007, 05:15 PM
Okay, you rock.


I fear this is how I'll have to go, but I'll still keep looking.

I hope things work out well for you! Bias tape makers are easy to use and inexpensive, so they're nice to have around period. I have them in several sizes, so that I can make a 1" single-fold tape and then turn it into 1/2" double-fold, etc.

One thing you could try is to get some cotton/poly blend 1/2" double-fold bias tape and dye it. This is what I'm trying first. The upshot is that since it's a blend, it won't dye as dark as 100% cotton. This is especially true if you don't leave it in the dye bath the entire recommended time. The troublesome part is that blends sometimes look heathered, depending on the tightness and evenness of the fibers.

I'll be sure to post results and pictures, if my efforts are successful. :3

nadesico81
10-15-2007, 07:03 PM
Okay, you rock. I fear this is how I'll have to go (making tape), but I'll still keep looking.

As for the suit itself: I was trying to use the Civil War pattern as a guide, but it wound up... tight in the crotch.

Having actually been in the Army, I'm going to dismember one of my old, beat down BDU sets, and try it (having already respectfully removed all patches and insignia).

Can't get more authentic than that, can ya? :skidude2:

BDUs have a very diffrent pattern then the FMA Uniform. Im in the Air Force and have taken apart many sets of BDUs for cosplays. However BDUs are not any thing like the FMA uniforms. I would not use BDUs for a templet for a FMA uniform. I would be more inclined to use a dress uniform as a templet instead of BDUs. The older USAF/Army Air Corps cira 1940's dress blues could be adapted into the right kind of uniform with the proper care and time.

Shinteetah
10-16-2007, 12:01 AM
Having actually been in the Army, I'm going to dismember one of my old, beat down BDU sets, and try it (having already respectfully removed all patches and insignia).

Can't get more authentic than that, can ya? :skidude2:

As we mentioned in the beginning, the FMA uniforms are very, very boxy and not at all like modern military uniforms -- neither tailored nor baggy, but just solidly square. I think you'd be better served starting from scratch than trying to modify something that's a dramatically different style.

LadyHawke78
10-16-2007, 10:11 PM
I would be more inclined to use a dress uniform as a templet instead of BDUs. The older USAF/Army Air Corps cira 1940's dress blues could be adapted into the right kind of uniform with the proper care and time.

'Tis quite true.

Even the regular FMA uniforms are quite "formal" looking-- not to mention that I can barely MOVE in the long skirt that goes with my FMA dress-uniform. (The slits in the sides of that design NEED TO BE LARGER, GODDARNIT!!!) :/

j_cameron
10-25-2007, 10:05 AM
'Tis quite true.

Even the regular FMA uniforms are quite "formal" looking-- not to mention that I can barely MOVE in the long skirt that goes with my FMA dress-uniform. (The slits in the sides of that design NEED TO BE LARGER, GODDARNIT!!!) :/

Ouch... That last bit is why I plan on crossplaying as Roy in his dress uniform, because it means I get to wear a long coat, trousers, and avoid the evils of that skirt. ^^;

On the downside, it means I have to make that long coat. *shudder*

AVAAntares
10-26-2007, 03:19 PM
Ouch... That last bit is why I plan on crossplaying as Roy in his dress uniform, because it means I get to wear a long coat, trousers, and avoid the evils of that skirt. ^^;

On the downside, it means I have to make that long coat. *shudder*

Are you making the funeral dress uniform, or the one with the long black topcoat?

For the black coat: McCall's M4154. It is one of the most versatile cosplay patterns ever. For FMA, it makes Ed's red coat, Izumi's white tunic and Roy's black coat, all with fairly simple modifications. (Unfortunately, it's discontinued, but you can still find it at some stores.)

http://img.sewingtoday.com/cat/40000/itm_img/M4154.jpg

blackcat523
10-26-2007, 07:46 PM
Ouch... That last bit is why I plan on crossplaying as Roy in his dress uniform, because it means I get to wear a long coat, trousers, and avoid the evils of that skirt. ^^;

Oh the butt cape isn't as difficult as it looks. Thanks to some help (bows to AVAAntares) I was able to figure it out and I'm by no way a seamstress.

In fact my butt cape hides a few errors in my pants and it also hides the errors in the waistband of my pants nicely.

Kenmichi
06-28-2008, 12:07 AM
So, this thread is really helpful.

Earlier in the year I did some research on how to make the uniform because I'm trying to gauge the difficulty level. My original plan was to take this pattern: http://www.mccallpattern.com/item/M4745.htm?search=4745&page=1 and alter it heavily. Using figure B in the pattern and removing the skirting bottom should make a perfect FMA military jacket, then altering a pants pattern using the flaring method.

Is this feasible? That's my real question. Everything else seems really straight forward. I think the biggest hurdle to overcome will be finding an ultramarine (I think the closest color to what's in the anime) colored fabric and a grey bias tape. Fortunately using an ultramarine blue might allow me to use a darker bias tape since it seems that's all that JoAnn's stocks now.

[edit]
I admittedly hadn't looked at the grey bias tape until just now (http://www.joann.com/joann/catalog.jsp?CATID=cat3715&PRODID=prd17174) and it's really almost a black. Other than making my own, which sounds like it's annoying to make, are there good alternatives to a lighter grey? I read a few but since the last post in this thread was about 8 months ago I have no idea what's recent.

Blasphemy Blue
06-28-2008, 12:36 AM
JoAnn's has some nice lighter grey lying around somewhere. If all else fails, look at the blanket binding. I was just digging through the bias tape today in search of some for a Trinity Blood costume and saw some very nice grays lying around. I think it was the Wright's binding that had all the lovely color variants.

SoulReaper898
06-28-2008, 07:00 AM
This will help me with my 3rd uniform for Allen Walker cosplay I'm doing for Anime North. Thank You

Kenmichi
06-28-2008, 10:58 AM
I've been trying to post in this thread again since last night to say I found a lighter grey than the one I posted. The link in my first post is actually to a fleece trim, so I did more searching and found a single fold bias tape that's considerably lighter in color. It's still a darkish grey but if matched with an ultramarine blue, or any darker shade of blue, it should come out nicely.

Trigger Poplin was suggested by AVA, but I can't seem to find that fabric online anywhere. Is there another name for it, or is it hard to find at fabric stores?

AVAAntares
06-28-2008, 03:22 PM
Earlier in the year I did some research on how to make the uniform because I'm trying to gauge the difficulty level. My original plan was to take this pattern: http://www.mccallpattern.com/item/M4745.htm?search=4745&page=1 and alter it heavily. Using figure B in the pattern and removing the skirting bottom should make a perfect FMA military jacket, then altering a pants pattern using the flaring method.

Most of us have, at some point or another, tried to modify the Civil War pattern. I spent months trying to get rid of the princess seams and turn it into a viable Roy Mustang jacket before I gave up and drafted my own pattern... which is where this thread came from. ^_^

As I stated earlier in the thread, I recommend staying away from this pattern. Not only is it very tailored (which makes the silhouette different from the FMA uniforms), but it also has tons of curved seams, easestitching, bloused double-seamed sleeves, and a lot of other obnoxious features that make it a very, very difficult pattern to modify.

If you'd rather use a commercial pattern than make one from scratch, I would suggest skimming back a page or two and finding that Burda jacket pattern that someone posted. It would be much easier to modify than the Civil War uniform!

I think the biggest hurdle to overcome will be finding an ultramarine (I think the closest color to what's in the anime) colored fabric and a grey bias tape. Fortunately using an ultramarine blue might allow me to use a darker bias tape since it seems that's all that JoAnn's stocks now.

Hmm... Ultramarine seems really dark for these costumes. The FMA uniforms are closer to a royal blue than ultramarine. You can find appropriately colored bottomweights at most fabric stores: I used trigger poplin from JoAnn Fabrics (which looks great in person but washes out a bit under photo flash). JoAnn also carries a slightly darker rodeo poplin that would work. Blackcat523 used a medium-blue denim, and hers looks nice, too.


I admittedly hadn't looked at the grey bias tape until just now (http://www.joann.com/joann/catalog.jsp?CATID=cat3715&PRODID=prd17174) and it's really almost a black. Other than making my own, which sounds like it's annoying to make, are there good alternatives to a lighter grey? I read a few but since the last post in this thread was about 8 months ago I have no idea what's recent.

Making your own bias tape is kind of a pain, but it's certainly doable. I don't know of any domestic stores that still stock FMA-grey bias tape. You could buy white tape and batch-dye it, or you could make your own from grey cotton. (Or you could always cheat and go with the old wrap-commercial-ribbon-around-the-edge trick, but that method has its own set of problems...)

AVAAntares
06-28-2008, 03:51 PM
I've been trying for the better part of an hour to edit my previous post, but for some reason the site won't let me. So, double-posting it is... :P

Anyway, I didn't see your second post re: bias tape until after I'd already posted my reply. If you've found a lighter grey, great! Go with it. And you might also post a link here, for all the other cosplayers who are looking for bias tape. :)

Trigger poplin is sometimes just called trigger, or trigger fabric... it's very similar to rodeo poplin (I think one is just a tiny bit thicker than the other...?). Go to the bottomweights section in JoAnn and look for something that is 100% cotton and does not stretch, or ask an employee where they keep it. My local fabric stores carry it year-round, so I don't think it's that rare.

If you can't find trigger per se, you can use any non-stretchy bottomweight: Poplin, denim, anything that holds its shape well is fine. Make sure it breathes, though; you'll be wearing several layers of it, so you don't want a lot of synthetics.

blackcat523
06-28-2008, 07:46 PM
Most of us have, at some point or another, tried to modify the Civil War pattern. I spent months trying to get rid of the princess seams and turn it into a viable Roy Mustang jacket before I gave up and drafted my own pattern... which is where this thread came from. ^_^

As I stated earlier in the thread, I recommend staying away from this pattern. Not only is it very tailored (which makes the silhouette different from the FMA uniforms), but it also has tons of curved seams, easestitching, bloused double-seamed sleeves, and a lot of other obnoxious features that make it a very, very difficult pattern to modify.

If you'd rather use a commercial pattern than make one from scratch, I would suggest skimming back a page or two and finding that Burda jacket pattern that someone posted. It would be much easier to modify than the Civil War uniform!

I did use the McCalls civil war pattern for mine. I guess being new to cosplay, and not knowing sewing terminology helped. As for following patterns, after cutting the pieces out I threw away the instructions and did it my way, their more like guidelines for me anyways. I guess that's why mine doesn't have princess seams (I admit I had no clue what they were and had to look them up about two weeks ago for curiosity sake. Now that I know what they are I can honestly say I've never done them. My jacket is all side and shoulder seams). But then again I wasn't going for total accuracy, I've never entered a contest with it because I know mine isn't fully anime accurate. That and I had a huge case of stage fright (but got over it at Anime Boston for cosplay chess. Going on stage representing FMA military was one of my highlights this year). My military outfit was the first costume I made for cosplay and I'm dam proud of what I was able to pull off with no in person help (over the net I got a load of help, but it's one thing to get it in person and another over the internet. Especially when your like me and understand it better when you see it done).



Hmm... Ultramarine seems really dark for these costumes. The FMA uniforms are closer to a royal blue than ultramarine. You can find appropriately colored bottomweights at most fabric stores: I used trigger poplin from JoAnn Fabrics (which looks great in person but washes out a bit under photo flash). JoAnn also carries a slightly darker rodeo poplin that would work. Blackcat523 used a medium-blue denim, and hers looks nice, too.

Yeah, I did, found it at Walmart of all places, and to this day I haven't been able to find anything close. Joanne has Trigger and Rodeo, mine carries it near the denim section. Cotton is good for the jacket as it doesn't hold the heat in like synthetics and the heavier it is the better. I've got friends around the country who have scraps of the denim I used. I told them if they find that color again to let me know. It's been over a year and a half and I still can't find that blasted color. Now that I know what I'm doing and have gotten more comfortable I want to remake my uniform. Though I have seen the uniforms in many shades of blue, so go with what you like. Do however take a photo of it before you buy. Blue tends to fade out on camera with flash.




Making your own bias tape is kind of a pain, but it's certainly doable. I don't know of any domestic stores that still stock FMA-grey bias tape. You could buy white tape and batch-dye it, or you could make your own from grey cotton. (Or you could always cheat and go with the old wrap-commercial-ribbon-around-the-edge trick, but that method has its own set of problems...)

That's what I did, the old commercial ribbon trick. I used a dull silver, but it appears bright under flash. I'll choose a different route with my new uniform once I get the blue I want.


Oh and for the black coat. I know it's not totally accurate, but my friends and I picked up black trench coats to go over ours. They work for the colder cons, and since they are all water proof they work also when we have to go outdoors to a restaurant and don't want to get our outfits soaked.

Kenmichi
06-28-2008, 09:50 PM
Hm... I might try working with the Civil War pattern just to get a feel for what I'm doing. When I made the long jacket for my Saiga Tatsumi outfit (http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v299/EmpyrealRogue/Anime/speed_saiga.gif) I used a really simple jacket pattern. While this jacket is pretty simple I made A LOT of custom modifications to it and it turned out beautifully.

The pattern is only a couple of bucks so there's no harm in using it as a place to grab some footing. I'll definitely use your tutorial, AVA, as it's really helpful, but combining a tutorial and pattern should be really helpful for me.

I'll shop around for a lot of different colors to use. Getting the right, or a good, color is really important to me. I was thinking ultramarine because it really looks like in the anime that there's a hint of green in the uniform. Royal looks good, too, though so I'm feeling a little torn between the two colors.

[edit]
Like the royal at the bottom of this page?
http://www.joann.com/joann/catalog.jsp?CATID=cat3161&PRODID=prd26099&source=search
It looks too bright in my opinion.

blackcat523
06-28-2008, 11:01 PM
It's a blue in the anime, remember if the TV color isn't correct the colors can be off. There is no green in the uniforms (royal blue in the anime, dark navy in the games)

The blue in my uniform looks a lot lighter in photos then it is in real life. It tends to wash out alot. I've never ordered fabric online because monitor colors and colors online can be a shade or two different from what you really get. I like to buy in person so I can see and feel the fabric.

I lucked out because the blue I found matches the color of the roy mustang plushie my friend has. My friend and I have identical uniforms (she lives in FL I live in IL) because I picked up the fabric and sent her half. Her daughter and our friend have uniforms made out of the royal blue and though it's a bit lighter it's hard to tell and the ebay bought uniforms are the brighter royal blue.

As for using the pattern, altering and going your own way GO FOR IT. I'd love to see what you can come up with.

Kenmichi
06-29-2008, 09:34 AM
Great, now that I have the plans for the uniform taken care of I'll need to find some close up shots of the medals and pins on Roy's uniform. Don't suppose anyone has any good screen shots of those, or a close up of their own?

madamekuchiki
06-29-2008, 10:30 AM
Great, now that I have the plans for the uniform taken care of I'll need to find some close up shots of the medals and pins on Roy's uniform. Don't suppose anyone has any good screen shots of those, or a close up of their own?

Yeah I have some of my own. But I can tell you where I got em cuz they are spitting image. I can take pics if you want but you could order them for like $7 on cosplaymagic.com. If you still want pics, I'll do that later if you ask. but try cosplaymagic

madamekuchiki
06-29-2008, 10:35 AM
Here is a link. http://www.cosplaymagic.com/fualunba.html Ok they are out of stock at the moment but they should be back in just a few days. And remember Sir, Riza knows best!

Kenmichi
06-29-2008, 11:05 AM
Thanks, that was actually really helpful. I found the metal badge for the collar as well as his rank badge on the left side of the jacket.

madamekuchiki
06-29-2008, 12:33 PM
Thanks, that was actually really helpful. I found the metal badge for the collar as well as his rank badge on the left side of the jacket.

No problem dude. We Rizas must help you Roys out, right? lol

captain0marauding
06-30-2008, 09:46 PM
Wow, this is amazing. I'm going to use this tutorial for my Roy costume, expect pics soon, just check my DA in my sig.

LadyHawke78
07-01-2008, 02:51 PM
Thanks, that was actually really helpful. I found the metal badge for the collar as well as his rank badge on the left side of the jacket.

Oh shi-- you actually found somewhere that sells the campaign pins?
Nice. I'm making mine for Olivia Armstrong out of solid grossgrain ribbon.
Its a pain because hers are never shown in color. She's a manga-only character, and the color shots of her are all where she's wearing her coat.

AVAAntares
07-01-2008, 03:18 PM
Okay, replying to a lot of things at once, since I'm a few days behind. (I hate not having a reliable computer... mine's off for repair.) T_T

Oh and for the black coat. I know it's not totally accurate, but my friends and I picked up black trench coats to go over ours.

If you want to make the black coat, I recommend McCall's M4154 (http://img.sewingtoday.com/cat/40000/itm_img/M4154.jpg) as the PERFECT pattern. It's an eight-panel suit coat; just add some length to the bottom of the pattern pieces all the way around, and you're set! (In the case of male cosplayers, you may also want to eliminate some of the curve in the bust region, but it doesn't really show even if you leave it in.)

Like the royal at the bottom of this page?
http://www.joann.com/joann/catalog.j...ource=s earch
It looks too bright in my opinion.

It does look a little bright on screen (remember, the screen is glowing!), but it's probably pretty close to the fabric we used for our uniforms. If so, it's better in person than on screen.

As blackcat523 mentioned, blue washes out really badly under flash. If you look at the original tutorial pictures, you can see what the fabric looks like with and without the flash washing it out: PLATE-3.jpg was taken with flash; PLATE-4.jpg was not. If your main goal is looking good in photos, you might want to go with something just a shade darker. (Just don't go all the way down to a really dark navy, or your grey trim will look like it's glowing...)

Great, now that I have the plans for the uniform taken care of I'll need to find some close up shots of the medals and pins on Roy's uniform. Don't suppose anyone has any good screen shots of those, or a close up of their own?

If you want quick-and-easy collar pins, you can find them on eBay or the aforementioned sites. They're not 100% accurate (I think the chimera rampant is actually square in the source material, not rectangular), but they look nice. I've also heard that they're really heavy, so make sure your collar can support the weight of the metal pins. Use extra interfacing so the collar doesn't wilt.

If you're planning on entering your costume in Craftsmanship, you should make your own pins for maximum points. There are a lot of options for this; some people cast them in resin or plastic, or make them out of polymer clay. I made our pins by engraving the design on pewter foil and wrapping that over a cardboard support.

The artbooks have pretty decent references of the fruit salad over Roy's left breast. It's five on the top and four on the bottom, white/yellow/green/red, but I can't remember the exact color order. I can look it up for you if you can't find a reference image. I made our Roy's decoration as a single unit by layering ribbon over craft foam, but there are a whole lot of things you could use for that (including just sewing it right onto the costume, which would probably be easiest).

Good luck with your costume! :)

captain0marauding
07-01-2008, 03:30 PM
''The artbooks have pretty decent references of the fruit salad over Roy's left breast. It's five on the top and four on the bottom, white/yellow/green/red, but I can't remember the exact color order. I can look it up for you if you can't find a reference image. I made our Roy's decoration as a single unit by layering ribbon over craft foam, but there are a whole lot of things you could use for that (including just sewing it right onto the costume, which would probably be easiest).''

Where can I find these artbooks? does anyone have a link? and I'm guessing that the fruit salad you talk about is the coloured rectangles on the left side of the coat

captain0marauding
07-01-2008, 05:28 PM
oh yeah, sorry for the double-post but I found the colours of the fruit salad, Roy cosplayers! the top row has 5 bars, which go as white, red, white, yellow, white, and the 2nd row has 4 bars, which goes as green, yellow, green, red.
Hope it helps

blackcat523
07-01-2008, 07:25 PM
If you want quick-and-easy collar pins, you can find them on eBay or the aforementioned sites. They're not 100% accurate (I think the chimera rampant is actually square in the source material, not rectangular), but they look nice. I've also heard that they're really heavy, so make sure your collar can support the weight of the metal pins. Use extra interfacing so the collar doesn't wilt.

I have the metal pins and yes they are heavy. I interfaced my collar and it supports the weight. Though one thing, if you do get them, I've found their a bit hard to put on straight and it's easy to poke yourself while trying to get the pin through the collar.

captain0marauding
07-01-2008, 08:12 PM
Is there any way to make the pins really good, but not use cardboard or paper? I can't buy them, I don't really buy stuff for my cosplays. Is there any other type of item I could use?

Kenmichi
07-01-2008, 08:58 PM
I found a place to buy the metal collar pin, and some good close ups of the rank badge on Roy's chest. But I'm curious to know what you meant, AVA, when you said you made the badge with ribbon. Thin strips layered onto something? That's an idea I get, taking a little strip of ribbon for each color and gluing or possibly hand sewing them onto something, say a small piece of cardboard, and then using a pin to put it on the jacket.

AVAAntares
07-02-2008, 12:00 PM
Batch-replying from a public computer again... Scroll down to find the response to your question. -_-;


Where can I find these artbooks? does anyone have a link? and I'm guessing that the fruit salad you talk about is the coloured rectangles on the left side of the coat

Yes, "fruit salad" is military slang for the decorations. :) The animation artbooks are available from almost any import store, and they *might* even be available at your local bookstore -- some of the artbooks have been licensed, and some haven't, so I'm not sure which ones are available. Going purely on memory, since I can't Google things easily right now, I think there are two TV animation artbooks, a movie artbook, a TV anime info/artbook, and two or three manga artbooks. I think I used TV Animation Artbook 2 for most of my detail shots.

You can find scans of the artbooks at about a zillion sites, though, so if you can't find them at a local bookstore you can certainly find the pictures online.

Is there any way to make the pins really good, but not use cardboard or paper? I can't buy them, I don't really buy stuff for my cosplays. Is there any other type of item I could use?

Well, as I mentioned previously, I used pewter foil (you can buy it at most craft stores, like Michael's), embossed the design, folded the corners of the metal foil around a square of cardboard for support, and stuck an adhesive pinback on it.

Whether or not this is a "really good" way to make them is, of course, a matter of opinion. ^_^ But you can judge for yourself; the pins are visible in PLATE-3.jpg, in the original tutorial. (The pins in that photo have been through four years' worth of conventions, so they've been a bit abused. Keep in mind that the foil is soft -- you have to be careful when handling it.)

If you like to invest a bit more effort in your costume, you can also cast them from resin or sculpt them out of polymer clay and paint them silver. Just keep the weight of your materials in mind, since it has to go on the collar.


I found a place to buy the metal collar pin, and some good close ups of the rank badge on Roy's chest. But I'm curious to know what you meant, AVA, when you said you made the badge with ribbon. Thin strips layered onto something? That's an idea I get, taking a little strip of ribbon for each color and gluing or possibly hand sewing them onto something, say a small piece of cardboard, and then using a pin to put it on the jacket.

Yep, that's pretty much what I did. I used a piece of EVA foam as the base, and put strips of ribbon (maybe 3/8" width?) on it. I used adhesive pinbacks to affix it to the jacket, so that it could be removed for washing.

I recommend using something as a base that will not take water damage, so I'd stay away from cardboard unless it's completely covered with an impermeable material. You don't want your fruit salad to wrinkle or fall off if you get caught in the rain! ^_^


Disappearing into obscurity again, until I borrow another internet connection...

blackcat523
07-02-2008, 01:03 PM
Yep, that's pretty much what I did. I used a piece of EVA foam as the base, and put strips of ribbon (maybe 3/8" width?) on it. I used adhesive pinbacks to affix it to the jacket, so that it could be removed for washing.

I recommend using something as a base that will not take water damage, so I'd stay away from cardboard unless it's completely covered with an impermeable material. You don't want your fruit salad to wrinkle or fall off if you get caught in the rain! ^_^


...

Sorry to hear your still having computer problems AVAAntares.

I had to make a set of fruit salad for my friends Olivia cosplay (since I seem to be the more crafty one of our bunch). I took some hints from another oliva cosplayer (cattheterrible) on how she did hers.

I used Gossgrain ribbon in the colors I needed. For the back/base I used balsa wood strips, they come in 3ft long strips (the ones I got were about the size I wanted for the height of the ribbon bars). I cut out about 10 of them, each was smaller then the width of the ribbon to leave some overhang of ribbon on each side). For each one I cut a length of ribbon (enough to wrap around the balsa wood a few times). I affixed the ribbon to the balsa wood via hot glue (do be careful, I burnt myself the first time) and then wrapped the ribbion tightly around the wood. Once I got to the end I hot glued the ribbon closed (this would be on the backside so it wouldn't show). I did this for each of the colors I used (white,green,yellow,red. I couldn't find color photos of hers so I went off General Hakuro's bar colors). I made 2 of each color (along with longer ribbons for awards). Once done I laid it out how I wanted. Once I had the grouping I wanted I used glue to affix the ribbon sections to each other on the sides. I made two long bars and then used hot glue again to affix the bars to each other. I then glued a fabric backing to the whole thing and put a pin on it. It took a bit to get them straight. They look a bit odd up close, but from far away they look ok and since their a pin she can take them off to have the jacket dry cleaned without worry.

I can have a photo up later today if anyone wants to see.

captain0marauding
07-02-2008, 06:27 PM
Well, as I mentioned previously, I used pewter foil (you can buy it at most craft stores, like Michael's), embossed the design, folded the corners of the metal foil around a square of cardboard for support, and stuck an adhesive pinback on it.

Whether or not this is a "really good" way to make them is, of course, a matter of opinion. ^_^ But you can judge for yourself; the pins are visible in PLATE-3.jpg, in the original tutorial. (The pins in that photo have been through four years' worth of conventions, so they've been a bit abused. Keep in mind that the foil is soft -- you have to be careful when handling it.)

If you like to invest a bit more effort in your costume, you can also cast them from resin or sculpt them out of polymer clay and paint them silver. Just keep the weight of your materials in mind, since it has to go on the collar.

Yeah, I'm aiming for an award-winning costume this time, so I want them to turn out pretty nicely. Thanks for some ideas.

And for the fruit salad, I have got that all down, I found the colours and posted them on the last page

Kenmichi
07-02-2008, 09:46 PM
Blackcat, I would like to see some good pictures of your rank badge. I can easily visualize how you did that and it makes a lot of sense. I'm pretty sure that's how the real rank badges are made, only with metal instead.

captain0marauding
07-02-2008, 09:52 PM
Maybe I should do the same thing, BlackCat. Thanks for the ideas. I use ribbon and hotglue all the time, I bet mine will turn out great.

blackcat523
07-02-2008, 10:00 PM
Oliva rank without awards (http://www.cosplay.com/photo/1592581/)

Oliva rank bars with awards (http://www.cosplay.com/photo/1592574/)

In the close up shots you can see the glue *do forgive the background, I work out of my parents basement*. I did fix this and you can't see it when photos are taken of it from a bit of a distance. I'd get more, but the bars are with my friend in Florida, so it's kind of hard to take better pics at the moment. This was really a last minute thing I came up with (3 days before ACEN) for a special treat for my friend. So they aren't perfect. I plan on making another better set when I have time and the patience, and I think I'll use fabric glue instead of hot glue.

If you want to see better bars see cattheterrible, her bars (http://www.cosplay.com/photo/1064778/) are great, her info put me in the right direction. She also makes a great Olivia (one of the best I've seen)

Kenmichi
07-02-2008, 10:45 PM
They look really good.

My suggestion would be to wrap the ribbon length ways instead of width ways. That way the tops and bottoms will be tighter together. But it does look good, I think that's definitely how I will make the badge. Thanks Blackcat!

blackcat523
07-03-2008, 08:05 AM
Well I did wrap each color individually and then glued the color bars together at the sides. Once I had two (three in Olivia's) I glued the bar strips together. I tried to get them as close as I could without the glue showing (but failed a bit, theres a first try for everything). I didn't make 2 bar sets I made one, added a third bar and awards for Olivia. So it's actually one set not two (one pic-black background) was taken half way through, until I realized the General had more bars.

There are two things with Gossgrain ribbon, the ribbon has an edge on either side and ribs that run across (which are the lines you see). Plus I found that the reason they don't look even is because of the hot glue (It dried fast as I was wrapping the ribbon tight. I kept gluing and wrapping, which gave me bumps. Next time I will tack the end, wrap the ribbon without glue and then take the other end. Hopefully that will give me cleaner squares to work with.

I didn't cut my ribbon to size (at the sides). I bought the ribbon in the size you see for the colors. The only fraying is where the end of the ribbon is cut at the backside.

captain0marauding
07-03-2008, 08:55 AM
Oliva rank without awards (http://www.cosplay.com/photo/1592581/)

Oliva rank bars with awards (http://www.cosplay.com/photo/1592574/)

In the close up shots you can see the glue *do forgive the background, I work out of my parents basement*. I did fix this and you can't see it when photos are taken of it from a bit of a distance. I'd get more, but the bars are with my friend in Florida, so it's kind of hard to take better pics at the moment. This was really a last minute thing I came up with (3 days before ACEN) for a special treat for my friend. So they aren't perfect. I plan on making another better set when I have time and the patience, and I think I'll use fabric glue instead of hot glue.

If you want to see better bars see cattheterrible, her bars (http://www.cosplay.com/photo/1064778/) are great, her info put me in the right direction. She also makes a great Olivia (one of the best I've seen)

Wow, BlackCat! Those look amazing! But I have one question on the fruit salad. It has 3 bars? I thought it had only 2

blackcat523
07-03-2008, 09:21 AM
Wow, BlackCat! Those look amazing! But I have one question on the fruit salad. It has 3 bars? I thought it had only 2

Thanks..

It depends on what photo you look at. I took mine off a manga photo of Olivia and I based the colors off of General Hakuro's (if you look his have 3 bars, Mustang has 2). He's a General, she's a Major General, so I figure she'd also have more awards, being the woman she is and all. Her's also has the two hanging awards, Mustang doesn't (though I'm not sure if he wears other awards during the funeral scene. I'll have to watch the dvd later. If he does he doesn't wear them normally). The sizes change a bit here and there, so I just did what I could. I have yet to have anyone come up to her and say " you know you have to many awards" or " you know the red award goes here, and the white goes there".

I did what I could with the reference photos I had.

captain0marauding
07-03-2008, 09:26 AM
It depends on what photo you look at. I took mine off a manga photo of Olivia and I based the colors off of General Hakuro's (if you look his have 3 bars, Mustang has 2). He's a General, she's a Major General, so I figure she'd also have more awards, being the woman she is and all. The sizes change a bit here and there, so I just did what I could. I have yet to have anyone come up to her and say " you know you have to many awards" or " you know the red award goes here, and the white goes there".

I did what I could with the reference photos I had.

Thanks for the info, I'll put it to good use.

blackcat523
07-03-2008, 09:34 AM
Good luck with your bars. If you take your time you should do great. Do post a pic when you finish them. I'd love to see it.

With the cost of the ribbon and wood backing and such, if I remember correclty, I was able to pull this in under 5 bucks total in material and I still have enough to make another set when needed.

With the glue and the backing this pin is acutally really sturdy. She's used it for 2 Con's already with no problems (her daughter was olivia for Anime boston, it held up to the beating of a 12yr old, and came out looking fine).

captain0marauding
07-03-2008, 09:52 AM
Good luck with your bars. If you take your time you should do great. Do post a pic when you finish them. I'd love to see it.
With the cost of the ribbon and wood backing and such, if I remember correclty, I was able to pull this in under 5 bucks total in material and I still have enough to make another set when needed.

Ok, I'll have a picture up someday, like in about 10 days or something, I'm away fom my materials and home. I think I have all the materials already, too. I'll take my time as well, I'm probably entering this costume into a contest.

captain0marauding
07-06-2008, 08:21 PM
Sorry for the double-post, but I'm getting my braided cord soon! Yes! You can find them in a drapery section, places like that. http://www.cosplay.com/photo/1064781/ this person used a picture hanger for the front where the cord connects by pushing a key ring into it and sewed the braid around the circle. using tie tacks with backings, they put it through the hole in the hanger where the nail is to go, and voila, instant connector. http://www.cosplay.com/photo/1064801/ for the bottom connector, they took a bubble tea straw and cut it into 2 parts that where painted and glued together with the cord running through it. The bottom piece of the straw has the cord glued onto it, I'd use hotglue to glue it together. To make sure that the cord doesn't move forwards and backwards, before putting the button through to close the shoulder epaulet, use some thread (any colour of blue will do. it might not show anyways) and sew a few times around the top very tightly around the cord when it is in the position you want it to be in, then button up the epaulet. you're done the cord~ congradulations
this should be done after the sewing and adding bias tape around the jacket.

blackcat523
07-07-2008, 09:04 AM
I used the cording mentioned above. The only issue I have with it is if it gets snagged on something, it does fray and tend to run if not taken care of.
Mine isn't stitched into my outfit. It's held in place by stitches on one side of the empulet (from the edge of the shoulder to where I want the cord to lie) and the star (mine are actual military stars, so they go right through the fabric), this creates a pocket for the cording.

My T is a plumbing fixture T. I picked up some copper ones in the smallest size they had, put foil tape around it and then put the cord through it. My cord is 2 pieces. One loop for the shoulder, and one long piece for the front attachment. My friend helped me hot glue the cording into the T, so it come out. The plumbing T is also a bit heavier, so it keeps the T in place under the armpit. Because of movement the cording on the shoulder sometimes shifts, but I didn't want to sew it into the jacket because it would make it impossible to clean. I can take my cording off *my empulets are tacked in place* so I can dry clean my jacket.

BTW I've been looking for those picture hangers for a while now to modify my cord, I haven't found any. Where can you get them?

captain0marauding
07-07-2008, 10:24 AM
BTW I've been looking for those picture hangers for a while now to modify my cord, I haven't found any. Where can you get them?

I believe at the back of a picture frame, look for a small one at a yard sale or something, that's what I'm doing.

Kenmichi
07-07-2008, 08:05 PM
You might be able to buy a small box of them from a craft store.

captain0marauding
07-07-2008, 08:10 PM
You might be able to buy a small box of them from a craft store.

That's true.

My Roy costume, I'm post-poning it for next year guys. Sorry!

Kenmichi
07-07-2008, 08:48 PM
Sorry to hear that.

I'm saving up a little money so I can buy all the fabric at once from JoAnn's. I'll hopefully get to start it next month for Anime USA (October 10th!).

blackcat523
07-07-2008, 09:43 PM
No worries, it took me over 4 months to finish mine, and it's still not perfect. Those that take their time with them often have a better outfit in the end anyways.

I did however try my hand at a 2nd version of the fruit salad trying a different wrapping method. It's hard to get them anime accurate but I like the way the 2nd version looks compared to the first. I may give these to another friend of mine who does Mustang.

They will be up in my gallery for anyone who wants a peek

Kenmichi
07-10-2008, 10:56 AM
I was browsing Joann Fabric's online store and they stopped selling the perfect fabric for this costume, a canvas trigger in royal blue. That would have been perfect for a military-esque uniform.

After spending several hours browsing the online store I found one fabric that has royal blue as a color, a ponte knit. It's thick but doesn't have the rigid feel of the canvas, so I'll have to settle with that but I still think it should be alright. But I might wait it out a bit to see if Joann will restock the canvas trigger in royal blue.

Canvas Trigger: http://www.joann.com/joann/catalog.jsp?CATID=cat3161&PRODID=prd26099&source=search
Ponte Knit: http://www.joann.com/joann/catalog.jsp?CATID=cat2958&PRODID=prd32705&source=search

[edit]
Good news, Joann restocked the Canvas Trigger in Royal Blue, I'm going to purchase the fabric tomorrow hopefully and get started with the physical layout for my uniform this coming week. The paper cut outs, pants pattern, and making the grey trim. I need to accomplish as much sewing as I can while I'm home, so I can save the detailed parts for when I don't need a machine.

Kenmichi
07-21-2008, 08:02 PM
Does it classify as a double post if the two posts are 11 days apart?

I finally had a day off and time to get out to JoAnns today and went on a spree. I got the uniform fabric (the color is perfectly shaded with the manga), grey trim (I'm going to make all the trim by hand), the buttons for the epaulets and jacket, the rank stars, and the gold chord. I bought 7 yards of the royal blue poplin, I hope that will be enough since that was almost every inch of the bolt (I'm 5'9", average build).

So all that's left to worry about are the gloves, rank badge (fruit salad), the campaign badge for the collar, and procuring a pocket watch. Oh yeah, and making the uniform.

I'm hoping to start as soon as possible, wish me luck!

SesshysWench
07-26-2008, 07:38 AM
I love you. I love you. I love you. :)

Thank you very much for this!

AVAAntares
07-26-2008, 09:52 AM
I love you. I love you. I love you. :)

Thank you very much for this!

/laugh/ You're welcome... but can't we just be friends...? ;)

I have my computer back now! XD Hopefully I will be able to respond to posts in a more timely fashion now that my electronic limb is restored.

SesshysWench
07-27-2008, 05:31 AM
XD I'm completely new to sewing, so this was a real help! Forgive me if I scared you!

blackcat523
07-27-2008, 09:21 PM
/laugh/ You're welcome... but can't we just be friends...? ;)

I have my computer back now! XD Hopefully I will be able to respond to posts in a more timely fashion now that my electronic limb is restored.

Good to hear Avantares. I don't know what I would do without my link to the world. Maybe get more Cosplay's done..hehe

Kenmichi
08-12-2008, 10:08 PM
Update!

I started the project July 28th, and by July 29th had the jacket minus the collar and cuffs, and the pants minus the wasitband done. I spent a couple hours everyday making the trim by hand, and on August 5th, my birthday and next day off, I started up again. Made the cuffs, collar, pant cape, and finished the pants. Then the next day I finished the pant cape, put all the trim on the jacket.

All that I have left, with the uniform, is to put the fasteners and clips on everything to hold it on me while I'm wearing it. I made the rank badge with strips of ribbon tightly wrapped around strips of cardboard and made the campaign (collar) pins by hand using sheets of plasticard.

I've been fiddling with glove patterns, but I need a little more direction there. I need to take more time out to sit down and focus on the gloves so I can knock that out in a day. They're a lot more difficult than I originally thought...

AVA, your guide was really damn helpful. I did use a pattern I had laying around for the sleeves and jacket, but other than that everything was done using a lot of precise measurements and wild guesses. Though, I did do a few things differently.

My jacket is 2 pieces, not 4.
I interfaced the inside front left and right of the jacket. It gave the collar more stability and lift, and contributed to the boxy look.
I didn't interface the pant cape. After doing a lot of observing in the anime, manga, various screenshots I noticed that the cape isn't stiff looking at all, it has natural flow to it. It really does just hang there.

Other than that I followed your guide to a T and it's coming along perfectly. I'll post pictures as soon as the uniform is completely done, as the gloves may still take a little while to complete.

Kenmichi
09-29-2008, 01:01 PM
The costume is done and I finally have pictures to post.

http://www.cosplay.com/costume/177173/

I'm very happy with how it came out, thank you guys so much for all the advice you gave. I used advice from pretty much every person in this thread, but I want to especially thank Blackcat and AVA for their huge contributions to me and to all of cos.com.

blackcat523
09-30-2008, 07:49 AM
The costume is done and I finally have pictures to post.

http://www.cosplay.com/costume/177173/

I'm very happy with how it came out, thank you guys so much for all the advice you gave. I used advice from pretty much every person in this thread, but I want to especially thank Blackcat and AVA for their huge contributions to me and to all of cos.com.


Nice, it's always great to see another dog of the Military added to the Ranks!
I like the color you chose and you didn't go with the shiny silver every one else does KUDOS!
Congrats for making it yourself, it really does show (And I don't mean this in a bad way, put yours up against any ebay cookie cutter outfit and you can tell you put alot of effort into yours!)

:)

Lawliet99
06-08-2009, 11:59 PM
Hello everyone.

I'm just a short while away from completing my state alchemist uniform (went with Kimblee), and I stumbled across this thread during my research.

Since a lot of you are going through my current tribulations, I could really use some help - where did you lot find your cords and buttons from? Personally, I'm looking for a very solid gold color for my cord, but I'm looking for a rather thick cord and all I can find is half-centimeter trim. >>

I was also hoping to find flat, bright brass buttons for the front panel of the jacket. If anyone can point me in the right direction, I'd be most grateful. :3

AVAAntares
06-09-2009, 03:10 PM
My flat buttons came from the local fabric store, where they are sold in several sizes. I don't know where you're located, but in the U.S. stores like JoAnn Fabrics and Hobby Lobby sell them. You can also check auction sites like eBay, which is where I bought all the flat silver buttons for my set of OZ uniforms. It's cheaper to buy them in bulk.

I made my own braid out of narrower cord; for the matte gold shoulder braid, I used 18 yards of embroidery floss and did a four-strand crown braid to make it thicker. For the metallic braid I put on a special-occasion costume, I used 1/4" metallic lamé rattail from a fabric store and doubled it before braiding.

You might check the decorating and upholstery sections for the gold cord; most of the stores around me have a wide selection of gold cords in upholstery products, including some that are already braided like the FMA shoulder braids.

blackcat523
06-09-2009, 08:42 PM
My flat buttons came from Walmart (in the fabric section and were about 1.00 with tax for 2 of them). The braid I got from Joann's in the upholstery/drapery section, you can buy it by the yard. The T I used (where the two sections of braids come together) was a plumbing T I covered in metalic tape ( my dad had some left over from a home project and gave it to me. He figured I could find a use for it). It's kind of like sticky aluminum foil.

My cord is connected to the front with a small d-ring sewn into a flap of silver by the T on the right of the jacket and finished with some more of the metallic tape. My friend used a book ring for hers.

Kenmichi
06-10-2009, 09:04 AM
I bought all the buttons, the bronze stars, and the chord for mine from JoAnn Fabric. At the bottom of the previous page is a direct link to my State Alchemist uniform if you want to see what those buttons look like.

iAMSAMmet
09-03-2009, 12:12 PM
Thank you LOADS for this! You can't even believe how happy I am to find it - the state alchemist uniform will be my first attempt at sewing my own costume (and I have lack of faith in my skill..)! I merely googled and found it. I'll be returning here often.

The patterns just made me at so much ease :)

JiseiHakushaku
09-07-2009, 11:04 PM
Oh... my god.

I cannot say enough how much of a GODSEND this thread will be. It's my dream- despite the /cough cough/ obvious height variables /insert the emo face here/- to crossplay as Mustang! I could be a noob and buy it like my mom wants, but what's the fun in that? No needle pricks, bloody hands, or lost braincells. No fun at all. And actually, it's sad to say that that ISN'T sarcasm. o__o;;

But yeah. Thank you so, so, soooooo very much for this tutorial!!! It was so very helpful just by skimming it. I can't wait to start on my Mustang costume now. It can finally be removed from the "dream project" section of my signature to the "upcoming projects". YAY!

Thank you so much, again. This will be such a help! /deep bow/

AVAAntares
09-08-2009, 03:33 PM
No problem. I'm glad you find it helpful! It makes all our mistakes and trial-and-error seem worthwhile. ^_^

Summerblues
09-09-2009, 06:48 PM
THANK YOU! As many before have said, this is going to help me more than you can imagine. I'm planning on making a Riza cosplay and have therefore spent countless hours (usually during class, I'm afraid) contemplating fabric choices, prices, and how I'm ever going to manage this with my limited sewing skills. Thanks again! ~

blackcat523
09-09-2009, 09:18 PM
Well I'll be making it official, due to the new series (Which has it's high points, just like the original does) I'm remaking my military outfit. It's served me well but with the skills and what I have learned over these past 3 yrs it's time to retire that one. My friends and I have found the perfect fabric for it and will be getting together this year to make a sewing weekend out of it. Don't get me wrong I love my old outfit, but I know I can do better now and actually line the jacket how I want. The old one served me well, but it's faded and worn and deserves a most glorious retirement, hung up by my Full metal posters and I may even get it signed by some of the voice actors after the new one is made.

AVAAntares
09-10-2009, 01:56 PM
Well I'll be making it official, due to the new series (Which has it's high points, just like the original does) I'm remaking my military outfit. It's served me well but with the skills and what I have learned over these past 3 yrs it's time to retire that one.

Understood completely. We've been talking about remaking our FMA set, too. The lining of Ed's coat is disintegrating after years of heavy con wear and washing/drying, and Riza's pants were made when I had just dropped a lot of weight... which I've since gained back. -_-; (<-- wants her youthful metabolism back, darnit!)

I don't know when we'll find time to work on FMA in between our other projects, but if/when we do, I'll be able to revisit the tutorial and provide more accurate patterns and in-progress construction photos and such. I'm glad that people find the tutorial helpful, but I feel really bad every time I look back at my sloppy one-inch pattern sketches...! -__- I should really redraw those at some point.

JiseiHakushaku
09-17-2009, 10:30 PM
What you're looking for: The pants should have a high, fitted waist, NO PLEATS, and jeans-style pockets in front. (I do not have a pattern number to share, because I modeled my pants on a pair of khakis: I tried on pants until I found the right fit, then cut them apart and traced them to make a pattern. I don't necessarily recommend this method, as it's messy and confusing for a total neophyte.) ^_^ If anyone finds The Perfect Pants Pattern, please share with the group!

I am happy to say I might have found a couple of patterns that may or may not- with a little bit of altering- work for the military pants!

Possibility #1: http://www.butterick.com/item/B5222.htm?tab=skirts_pants&page=1
Possibility #2: http://www.butterick.com/item/B5250.htm?tab=skirts_pants&page=1
Possibility #3: http://www.mccallpattern.com/item/M5592.htm?tab=skirts_pants&page=2

I'm not saying they're perfect, but, with some work, they could be useful. I don't know. I just figured that since I found them I might as well share them with everyone here... So... Yeah. XD They might be nice for someone to use... Who knows... They might be worth checking out, or they may be totally wrong. *shrug*

~Dice

AVAAntares
09-18-2009, 01:27 AM
I am happy to say I might have found a couple of patterns that may or may not- with a little bit of altering- work for the military pants!

Possibility #1: http://www.butterick.com/item/B5222.htm?tab=skirts_pants&page=1
Possibility #2: http://www.butterick.com/item/B5250.htm?tab=skirts_pants&page=1
Possibility #3: http://www.mccallpattern.com/item/M5592.htm?tab=skirts_pants&page=2

I'm not saying they're perfect, but, with some work, they could be useful. I don't know. I just figured that since I found them I might as well share them with everyone here... So... Yeah. XD They might be nice for someone to use... Who knows... They might be worth checking out, or they may be totally wrong. *shrug*

~Dice

Thanks for posting! I think the third (M5592) looks like it has the most promise. The other two patterns would require a little more altering to take out the pleats and put in the correct front jeans-style pockets. If you use any of them, let us know how it turns out!

Keetande
01-11-2010, 09:52 AM
Ooh this is like to me :'3
I was thinking of making a Roy Mustang Cosplay to Uppcon:10 Here in Sweden, and didnät find any good pattern or tutorial for this cosplay, and then this. It's like heaven, thank you, I think that this will be very helpfull to me, if I can translate everthing right thast is XD But I donät think that it would be any problem :'3.

Thx alot and hopfully I'll make it work >wob

jamster545
05-03-2010, 08:00 PM
I know the larger square collar pin has the Amestris State Emblem with the lion-thing, but what of the other one. Also, How did you make/get those?

AVAAntares
05-04-2010, 03:08 PM
I know the larger square collar pin has the Amestris State Emblem with the lion-thing, but what of the other one. Also, How did you make/get those?

The other pin is some sort of rank bar (I'm sure there's a technical term for it, but I'm not sure what it's called). You can find references for it if you hunt (especially if you look for the cheap knockoff pins on eBay...). Since I made the costumes, I've seen better references; there's actually a star in the circle at one end, and the boxes are more detailed, but at the time I was working from a single non-detailed artbook image.

I made mine out of pewter engraving foil over tagboard. Not the most durable construction, but it was inexpensive and easy. ^_^

FullmetalFan
05-06-2010, 06:49 AM
Here are the pins that I used.

http://www.paradigm-ent.com/fmtla-pin-cllr.html

Ironhill
05-09-2010, 09:26 AM
Well I finially took the plunge and bought the material for my FMA costume. I bought 7 yards of Bottomweight Target in Royal that is an almost perfect match. I had the Anime Profiles book to use as a guide. The real prize is the ribbon. I bought 2 rolls of Offray ribbon silver 1017. It's a dull dark grey that is spot on for the trim. It comes in 3/8, 5/8, and 7/8 inch sizes. I bought one 3/8 to do flat trim and a 7/8 to do the edging where it is folded. If you need the trim check it out.

Now comes the fun partof cutting and triming and fitting until I get it right. Hopefully, I'll only have to do it 2 or 3 times. Luckly, Otakon is 2 1/2 months away.

jamster545
05-10-2010, 04:07 PM
The other pin is some sort of rank bar (I'm sure there's a technical term for it, but I'm not sure what it's called). You can find references for it if you hunt (especially if you look for the cheap knockoff pins on eBay...). Since I made the costumes, I've seen better references; there's actually a star in the circle at one end, and the boxes are more detailed, but at the time I was working from a single non-detailed artbook image.

I made mine out of pewter engraving foil over tagboard. Not the most durable construction, but it was inexpensive and easy. ^_^

Here are the pins that I used.

http://www.paradigm-ent.com/fmtla-pin-cllr.html

Thanks so much, both of you! :burger:

Ironhill
05-31-2010, 07:57 PM
When I was at Balticon one of the panels I saw dealt with pattern making. They mentioned some cad programs for making patterns with the computer, wildginger.com and dress shop. I was wondering if anyone tried to use these to make the uniform top. If so, how did it turn out.

cage no chou
06-02-2010, 03:16 AM
Oh my goodness I love you. :D

Mersaydee
06-05-2010, 06:15 AM
Oh wow - this is nice! My husband is looking at doing a Roy Mustang, and this will help a lot. I can't believe there's even a site with the collar pins!:)

A question for you Roy cosplayers - my husband's been trying to find a silver State Alchemist pocket watch, with no success. Every one we've encountered so far is Ed's (with the "October 11 - Don't Forget" inscription on it). Has anyone just found a plain State Alchemist pocket watch out there?

blackcat523
06-05-2010, 03:21 PM
Oh wow - this is nice! My husband is looking at doing a Roy Mustang, and this will help a lot. I can't believe there's even a site with the collar pins!:)

A question for you Roy cosplayers - my husband's been trying to find a silver State Alchemist pocket watch, with no success. Every one we've encountered so far is Ed's (with the "October 11 - Don't Forget" inscription on it). Has anyone just found a plain State Alchemist pocket watch out there?

I believe the only one they make is Ed's (since his is the most popular). Some of the cheaper ones have the "October 11" painted on, you may be able to figure out a way to get that off. Many of the more expensive ones have it engraved in there, so if you want it off, you may be able to sand it off (but I'm not sure).

Also if your doing Roy no one has to see the inside of the watch. Since all the State Alchemist watches are identical no one can tell from the outside if it's Roy's or Eds. It's only when you open it is the difference noticeable.

kyashiidreamer
06-06-2010, 12:03 AM
Thank you so much for this tutorial!

quizbowler
06-09-2010, 12:22 AM
Hey, some friends and I are planning to be Mustang (me), Hawkeye, and Hughes, and we're wondering if this fabric would suffice? We were going to go with some fabric from a local JoAnn's but we found this, and it is much cheaper (I'm just worried about ordering online)... any advice?

http://www.fabric.com/ProductDetail.aspx?ProductID=6135f035-bd41-42ff-91be-d86962ac8a19

Mystic~
06-09-2010, 01:05 AM
Hey, some friends and I are planning to be Mustang (me), Hawkeye, and Hughes, and we're wondering if this fabric would suffice? We were going to go with some fabric from a local JoAnn's but we found this, and it is much cheaper (I'm just worried about ordering online)... any advice?

I would recommend ordering a swatch to see if the color and weight are all right. Its the same fiber blend as what I recently used for my own Hawkeye costume, but its always good to double check and make sure its what you'll want before ordering a bunch.

Personally, I prefer to buy in store whenever possible, in case you realize you don't have enough, etc. I used Joann's Target Royal Joann's Sew Classic Bottomweight. It was $3.50 per yard with the 50% off coupon.

Amaya.L
06-15-2010, 09:38 PM
What fabric is best to use for the belt? I just want to make sure before I make it ^^;

Ephemerus
10-11-2010, 04:16 PM
Guys! Help me please! I need to get the patterns of the military uniform but the links you gave before won't open (as for example mccallpattern) ! I'm in despair!:confused:

blackcat523
11-05-2010, 11:03 PM
Mcalls civil war pattern 4745 (http://mccallpattern.mccall.com/m4745-products-7030.php?page_id=493)
That's the one I used to get the base. You'd have to alter the front to get the flaps right.

Panda Majik
12-20-2010, 10:01 PM
Sorry if this is a silly question, but when you initially mentioned 2 of every piece to make (except for 4 of the cuffs and back pieces) does that only apply to the jacket? I'm assuming you only need one piece of fabric for the pants - none of my pants are made with two layers. What about the butt-cape though? Based on your recommendation for interfacing on the butt cape as well I would imagine you would need that to be made with two layers of fabric to be able to sandwich the interfacing.

Shinteetah
12-21-2010, 12:29 AM
Yes, two layers for the butt cape, to hide the interfacing. As far as the pants go, that's up to you -- no, we didn't use two layers, either, but for some fabrics or some figures, a lining isn't a bad idea.
Sorry if this is a silly question, but when you initially mentioned 2 of every piece to make (except for 4 of the cuffs and back pieces) does that only apply to the jacket? I'm assuming you only need one piece of fabric for the pants - none of my pants are made with two layers. What about the butt-cape though? Based on your recommendation for interfacing on the butt cape as well I would imagine you would need that to be made with two layers of fabric to be able to sandwich the interfacing.

Panda Majik
12-21-2010, 12:39 AM
Thanks for that quick response. This is my first time sewing something completely myself and there's a lot of stuff that's new to me so I just wanted to get clarification before making any big mistakes.

Oh, I did remember one more question - for the pants did you guys use elastic? I don't see belts but I guess you wouldn't need elastic or a belt if it was fitted well at the waist.

Anyone happen to know if the pants have back pockets? I know they have front pockets from all the reference pics but I wasn't sure about the back. I'd probably skip them since they seem to be more complicated than front pockets from studying my pair of khakis (basing the pants on khakis).

Shinteetah
12-21-2010, 11:21 PM
Oh, I did remember one more question - for the pants did you guys use elastic? I don't see belts but I guess you wouldn't need elastic or a belt if it was fitted well at the waist.
We fitted the pants for a smooth waistband, which we thought would look better. Plus, I hate elastic waistbands and I hate sewing elastic waistbands. ;)

Anyone happen to know if the pants have back pockets? I know they have front pockets from all the reference pics but I wasn't sure about the back. I'd probably skip them since they seem to be more complicated than front pockets from studying my pair of khakis (basing the pants on khakis).
No source images that I know of, but add the pockets if they'll be useful! You can never have too many pockets in a costume. Back pockets can be quite easy, in fact -- cut and finish the outer pocket and then stitch it right on (see typical jeans back pockets for sample).

Ironhill
12-22-2010, 07:23 PM
I used some size adjusters from an old pair of BDU pants. I also had suspenders but I cosplay Furher Bradley with the long coat so noone could see them.

Also, I added a back pocket.

Panda Majik
12-23-2010, 03:14 PM
I went ahead and put in a back pocket (only the right one since I only need that one for my wallet). I had a lot of trouble with the front zipper but that's mostly attributed to this being my first time actually sewing something. Hopefully I can finish the pants today and get started on the cape thing. I've got a deadline of next Friday to finish all the sewing since I don't have a sewing machine in my apartment and I'm taking full advantage of the sewing stuff when I'm home for the break.

blackcat523
12-25-2010, 05:46 PM
You can have back pockets, but remember they would be hard to get to if your wearing the butcape over the pants. It depends I guess on where you put them. I only have the two side pockets and even those are covered by the butcape for my uniform.
On my uniform my uniform pants have a fitted waistband and it's kept up by the butcape (which for my uniform is a separate piece).

Panda Majik
12-25-2010, 11:53 PM
I haven't finished the entire cape yet but it doesn't seem like it would be too difficult to get to them even with the cape. I'm still planning out how to do the jacket (which is kind of why I left it for last). None of the other stuff left seems too hard aside from finding some suitable boots and some white gloves. Hopefully I can figure out the jacket without spending too much time...

Gypsyangelf4i
12-26-2010, 08:01 AM
BTW just sharing. I'm working on this outfit for my friend and to save a bit of time we found scrub pants in just the right shade of blue, then I just went to Joanne's and found some matching blue fabric for the rest. If you have a scrub (as in hospital scrubs) store nearby, they're a great source for odd colored pants and you can even find them with flared legs.

Panda Majik
12-26-2010, 01:53 PM
BTW just sharing. I'm working on this outfit for my friend and to save a bit of time we found scrub pants in just the right shade of blue, then I just went to Joanne's and found some matching blue fabric for the rest. If you have a scrub (as in hospital scrubs) store nearby, they're a great source for odd colored pants and you can even find them with flared legs.

That's not a bad idea, but I wanted to keep as close to the source material as possible (manga). Also, you might be able to find scrubs with front pockets, but the ones I've worn usually don't have them.

Panda Majik
01-31-2011, 01:44 AM
Got my Roy Mustang done in time for Ohayocon 2011 (just need to put the emblem on the gloves which I didn't have time for). I only have one picture so far, going to try to upload more soon.

Narnian
01-31-2011, 04:10 PM
I'm making a Maria Ross cosplay within the next two months and I'm having a hard time figuring out how to make her jacket. I want to be as accurate as possible and I haven't found any patterns to use as a base so I can make sure I get the sizing right. Money is really tight right now so I can't afford to mess up. What is the best or most efficient way to make the jacket without using a base pattern and wasting a lot of fabric?

AVAAntares
01-31-2011, 04:27 PM
What is the best or most efficient way to make the jacket without using a base pattern and wasting a lot of fabric?

Well, I've got my pattern sketches up, if you'd like to try those. If you're really worried about size, I'd suggest making a mock-up first. It doesn't take much investment -- you can either buy some $0.79/yard muslin and make one, or find an old bedsheet or tablecloth to cut up (thrift stores are great places to find scrap fabric). Make your test jacket out of cheap fabric first, tailor it to fit, then rip apart the seams and use the pieces as the pattern for your good fabric.

Bluehentrooper
02-02-2011, 01:49 PM
What have you guys done for the end of the cord on the shoulder? I can see that it's held in place by a ring that attaches above the crossbar on the breast, but I was wondering what I can use to put over the end of the cord itself (the metal holder for the cord that attaches to the jacket). I hope that makes sense.

AVAAntares
02-02-2011, 09:25 PM
What have you guys done for the end of the cord on the shoulder? I can see that it's held in place by a ring that attaches above the crossbar on the breast, but I was wondering what I can use to put over the end of the cord itself (the metal holder for the cord that attaches to the jacket). I hope that makes sense.

Look for cord finials in the jewelrymaking or upholstery trim sections of your local craft store; that's what they're made for. :) Failing that, pick up an electrical cord cap (the kind that cover exposed splices) at the hardware store and paint it silver.

The one under the arm is the trickier piece to find. In the actual reference, it's a T-shaped finial. You can find those, but usually not at local stores -- it's probably easier to make them out of other cord finials stuck together. You can also find pieces at home improvement stores that can be modified. I know blackcat used some kind of plumbing hardware for hers. I used pewter foil on ours, but since it's soft it didn't hold up well over time.

Bluehentrooper
02-04-2011, 12:18 PM
Thanks for the info. Time for another shopping trip on my quest to complete Riza's uniform....

Panda Majik
02-07-2011, 12:31 AM
My writeup on how to make a FMA military uniform. (http://animeinsights.com/2011/02/07/roy-mustang-cosplay/)

I've really got to thank AndSewingisHalftheBattle for providing a lot of the base information for this cosplay. I wanted to thank you guys in person at Ohayocon and was waiting around when you guys were doing your photoshoot Saturday night. I actually waited like half and hour and left for 5 minutes and came back to find you guys had finished and were gone =/

I'm drawing up the patterns on the computer right now since I did it by hand when I was making it. This way it will be easier for other people to use it.

Edit: The pdf of the pattern I drafted is now up on our site. I spent a lot of time drafting it up in illustrator so hopefully it'll be able to help someone else.

@ Bluehentrooper
I made all the metallic elements for my cosplay using an aluminum can. I made the end cap using aluminum can and some hot glue. Really easy and it was practically free to make. I used a ring from an old keychain so also free. I should have the pattern drafted by tonight so hopefully it'll be able to help other people.

AVAAntares
02-13-2011, 06:12 PM
I've really got to thank AndSewingisHalftheBattle for providing a lot of the base information for this cosplay. I wanted to thank you guys in person at Ohayocon and was waiting around when you guys were doing your photoshoot Saturday night. I actually waited like half and hour and left for 5 minutes and came back to find you guys had finished and were gone =/

Thanks; I'm glad you found the info useful. I'm so sorry we missed you at Ohayo! We'll be at ACEN next, so maybe we'll see you there?

Your tutorial looks great! I'll include a link to it in the first post in this thread, so others can find the patterns more easily. Thanks for drawing them up so nicely. If you don't mind, I'll also post a link to your tutorial from our own website (AndSewingIsHalfTheBattle.com).

blackcat523
02-20-2011, 05:45 PM
I know blackcat used some kind of plumbing hardware for hers. I used pewter foil on ours, but since it's soft it didn't hold up well over time.

Found a copper plumbing tee (smallest they had, think it was 1/4" from Home depot. I then covered it in metallic tape that was left over from a project my dad was doing, don't know what it was called). Though my new uniform will have something a bit different now that I'm more skilled at finding oddball pieces, (thank you steampunk).

I then hot glued all the cords into it. My shoulder Empulet does have a button hole so the cord was removable from the jacket for cleaning.

Panda Majik
03-04-2011, 05:07 AM
Thanks; I'm glad you found the info useful. I'm so sorry we missed you at Ohayo! We'll be at ACEN next, so maybe we'll see you there?

Your tutorial looks great! I'll include a link to it in the first post in this thread, so others can find the patterns more easily. Thanks for drawing them up so nicely. If you don't mind, I'll also post a link to your tutorial from our own website (AndSewingIsHalfTheBattle.com).

Oh I almost forgot about this thread. I certainly don't mind you posting it; in fact I'm just glad that more people will be able to find the information they need. I know I personally had some trouble finding a lot of good information on how exactly to make everything so if I can help someone else with that process then I'll be happy.

Btw the pattern I made is scaled 1:1. That means if you print it out (it'll take quite a few sheets of paper and you'll have to tape stuff together) you should have a pattern that matches the dimensions stated.

I don't think I'll be able to make it to ACen but I should be at Colossalcon, not sure if you guys are going?

AVAAntares
03-04-2011, 03:51 PM
I don't think I'll be able to make it to ACen but I should be at Colossalcon, not sure if you guys are going?

We're hoping to. Still trying to sort out schedules for the rest of the year, but that's a definite possibility.

Panda Majik
03-04-2011, 04:47 PM
Hopefully I can have time to work on something for Colossalcon. It's tough to get in time for other stuff with how much work is involved with med school right now but luckily I have the next week off for spring break. Hope we can actually meet in person at Colossalcon (I've only been to Ohayocon and Colossalcon so far and not sure if I have time to be going to more).

Narnian
05-20-2011, 09:01 PM
Is the butcape knee-length or just below? Also about how wide in the panel between the two butcape flaps in the front?

Ironhill
05-25-2011, 07:08 AM
From what I can tell, the butt cape length should be about halfway between the tops of your boots and your knee. Also, the opening seems to be along the midline of your leg.

iXeres
03-15-2012, 11:05 AM
I am so grateful that resources like this exist, because otherwise I would be lost.

... Now, if anyone has a tutorial for the fur-lined 'Briggs' jacket from Brotherhood... I'll be your BFF. Honestly, I figure I could just modify the long-jacket design I used for my old Dr. Horrible labcoat, since it is pretty similar in design...

Regardless! Thanks for this, I'm going to take a shot at this. If I fail, expect a listing to show up in the commissions marketplace. >.>

ystarburst
05-23-2012, 07:59 PM
Does anyone have the pattern from animeinsights previously downloaded? I used it for my Riza Jacket, but I've since gotten a new computer and no longer have the pattern. The website is down, and I'm not able to re-download it. Anyone wanna send it to me? :D Please?

Touva
12-18-2012, 12:44 PM
Does anyone have the pattern from animeinsights previously downloaded? I used it for my Riza Jacket, but I've since gotten a new computer and no longer have the pattern. The website is down, and I'm not able to re-download it. Anyone wanna send it to me? :D Please?

http://animeinsightsarchive.wordpress.com/2011/02/07/roy-mustang-cosplay/

Try this link. I don't think the one on ASIHTB is working anymore because the guy moved it to an archive. If that doesn't work PM me and I'll send it to you. :3

tkdhurricane
02-27-2014, 10:06 AM
Hey,

I'm planning to make a Riza cosplay (I have a little less than a year) but I don't want to cut my hair into bangs. I have the right color for her hair, but I was wondering if anyone knew a good place to get clip-in bangs. I'd prefer physical stores, if possible.

Thanks!

RedLittleDragon
04-20-2014, 02:31 AM
Anyone else interested in a solid plastic 3D-printed version of this gun:
http://www.imfdb.org/wiki/File:FMAB-FN1910-1.jpg ?

Just commissioning the model is a bit expensive before even starting the printer.