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View Full Version : Butt pillow/Bustle pad help


fechan
08-05-2010, 09:11 AM
Hello everyone,

I'm revamping my costume of Madam Red and I decided to go more the historical way and add (among other things) a butt pillow (for lack of better term) underneath the skirt.

Pictures of my costume before revamping:
http://www.cosplay.com/gallery/159677/
Period dresses:
http://trulyvictorian.com/history/69img14.jpg
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Bustle.JPG


I looked up the pillows and usually they're in a half moon shape. However with the stuffing I have (that is not shredded but in thick sheets) I'm having a really had time making that shape. The Sewing Guide ♀ INFOREST MOOKbook (http://www.amazon.co.jp/%E3%82%B8%E3%83%A7%E3%82%B7%E3%83%95%E3%82%AF-%E2%99%80-%E5%A5%B3%E5%AD%90%E3%82%AD%E3%83%A3%E3%83%A9%E8%A 3%BD%E4%BD%9C%E7%B7%A8-INFOREST-MOOK/dp/4861905621) suggested a, well, butt shaped pillow.


I don't know what shape of pillow would be best and easy to make. Does anyone have suggestions/experience on what shape of pattern to make for this?

Ani_BEE
08-05-2010, 10:52 AM
It depends on the fabric you use but you want one side to hug the curve of your body while the fare side is rounded to the shape you want to achieve the fullness. Basically they should be crescent shaped.

Victorian Bustle Pad
http://www.fashionsoftheages.com/bustle.html

You can take the basic concept of this one and just make the the segment larger.
http://thestaymaker.co.uk/img/gallery-bustle-2.jpg


I remembered your Madam Red dress and and think it's great you wan to add to it.

Brsis
08-05-2010, 01:00 PM
Of my handful of bustles (Most of which I inherited from my mother, who's the real enthusiast) most of them are half-circles, or two of the softer, smaller ones are actually just squares with half-circle drapes over the top.

It depends on how big a bustle you need, and how broad you need it. Ideally they should be half-circles/crescents, but often under enough layers it doesn't really matter. If you have sheet wadding, try cutting a rectangle, folding it in half, and either cutting the corners off or folding them under. That'll probably give you roughly the shape you need, and probably fit inside a half-circle cotton cover with a little squishing. Sew that onto a tape to go around your waist, and if you want, sew a short half-circle or gathered drape of leftover fabric over the top.

First rule of underwear is just that - it's underwear. It doesn't have to look pretty or neat. Unless you want it to.

fechan
08-05-2010, 01:58 PM
I remembered your Madam Red dress and and think it's great you wan to add to it.
Thank you, I remember you too!! I had forgotten part of the costume at home that year. It's my chance to wear the whole and revamped version at Otakuthon!



It depends on how big a bustle you need, and how broad you need it. Ideally they should be half-circles/crescents, but often under enough layers it doesn't really matter. If you have sheet wadding, try cutting a rectangle, folding it in half, and either cutting the corners off or folding them under. That'll probably give you roughly the shape you need, and probably fit inside a half-circle cotton cover with a little squishing. Sew that onto a tape to go around your waist, and if you want, sew a short half-circle or gathered drape of leftover fabric over the top.

I don't want it to be too big. When I first made the costume I wanted to do it with the bustle pad but a professional seamstress I know discouraged me from it saying it would be too difficult. The skirt ended up being made with only a little bit extra room at the back so the pad can't be too big but there is room for it.

I'm having a really hard time rolling the stuffing it becomes way too bulky on the sides. Maybe I should try cutting the sheet in a crescent shapes of different sizes and pilling them up pyramid style?

Kelley
08-05-2010, 07:25 PM
If you want a "period look", you'll need more than just a pillow - you'd need a pretty stiff petticoat as well, or a "bustle" as in "semi-hoop-skirt".

Is your dress long enough for this ? Is it cut to support this ?


Also, you're going to want a corset, and you might consider tailoring the jacket in a bit. :)

fechan
08-05-2010, 07:37 PM
If you want a "period look", you'll need more than just a pillow - you'd need a pretty stiff petticoat as well, or a "bustle" as in "semi-hoop-skirt".

Is your dress long enough for this ? Is it cut to support this ?


Also, you're going to want a corset, and you might consider tailoring the jacket in a bit. :)

I don't want an exactly period accurate look as the skirt is already done and cannot take that much bulk in the back. Also I don't want to get into making a cage bustle. I just want to give the costume a bit of structure. I always thought it looked a bit limp...

I already did the corset and accordingly tailored the jacket. It was just the butt boost I was having a hard time with. :)

Kelley
08-05-2010, 09:51 PM
I would still recommend a moderately stiffened petticoat if it's possible at all - it adds so much if there's nothing else under the skirt.

For the actual bustle, I would probably make one like this : http://thestaymaker.co.uk/img/gallery-bustle-2.jpg , as posted above

Brsis
08-06-2010, 06:27 AM
I don't want an exactly period accurate look as the skirt is already done and cannot take that much bulk in the back. Also I don't want to get into making a cage bustle. I just want to give the costume a bit of structure. I always thought it looked a bit limp...

I already did the corset and accordingly tailored the jacket. It was just the butt boost I was having a hard time with. :)

Although a cage bustle is accurate for 1888 and the Jack the Ripper cases, frankly Madame Red's outfit is twenty or thirty years out at the bare minimum anyway. I would worry about it too much ^.^

But yes, if it's too thick to roll (I'm trying to envision what you have and I think it's probably quite different from the sheet wadding I usually get!) then I would cut several shapes and stack them. They don't even necessarily need to decrease or increase in size, although (Depending on how thick it is, of course) a slightly bigger one sandwiched between two slightly smaller ones might give a nice even, pleasing shape.

fechan
08-06-2010, 08:46 AM
Although a cage bustle is accurate for 1888 and the Jack the Ripper cases, frankly Madame Red's outfit is twenty or thirty years out at the bare minimum anyway. I would worry about it too much ^.^

But yes, if it's too thick to roll (I'm trying to envision what you have and I think it's probably quite different from the sheet wadding I usually get!) then I would cut several shapes and stack them. They don't even necessarily need to decrease or increase in size, although (Depending on how thick it is, of course) a slightly bigger one sandwiched between two slightly smaller ones might give a nice even, pleasing shape.

That's true. I'm doing the manga version of the dress and it's almost a fishtail skirt unlike the more straight line of the period.

I cut them up and stacked them and it worked OK but my butt pillow is more rectangle shaped than half moon. ^^; I think it'll do the trick for this time. It's almost too thick too but I'm not changing it! x___x

My jacket just came back from the dry cleaner MISSING VELVET TRIM and the con is in a week so I've got bigger things to worry about now. ^^;;;;;;;

I'll be sure to post some pictures of the revamped dress with butt pad for you guys! Thanks for all the help!!

Ani_BEE
08-06-2010, 09:39 AM
May Madame Red's rage carry you forward in you in the velvet trim fixing. >_<

Brsis
08-06-2010, 12:32 PM
While you're fixing that, find ten minutes to go tear your dry cleaner a new one :fuming: that's shocking!

I'm glad to hear the bustle came off okay - I mean, like I said, I tend not to worry about the shape too much as long as you can't tell when the dress is over the top.

Morrigoon
08-22-2010, 05:29 PM
Have you considered a tie-back petticoat? This one from Truly Victorian (http://trulyvictorian.com/catalog/121.html) might be your best answer for fullness in the back if your skirt wasn't cut to accommodate a bustle.