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View Full Version : Ouran Blazer Collar help! - I think I'm about to tear my hair out T-T


Staxel
08-30-2010, 11:42 AM
Okay so for the past couple of months I've been making blazers for our Ouran Host Club cosplay [Ref] (http://www.anime.com/Ouran/images/right01.jpg). I've successfully made one jacket so far however for the second one I can't seem to get the collar to fit right! :miffed: It's annoying because I managed to do it the first time and now I'm just finding it impossible =(
Anyone have any tips? The fabric I'm using is just a simple drill.
Thanks so much ^^

Starflux
08-31-2010, 12:22 PM
:O hellos! (its me leanne XD) what a coincidence :P
sorry i dont know how to help as im still a noob >3<
but what i sometimes do when making the clothes peices, is that i make them too big first, and then tighten them to fit just right ^.^
so i dunno if you could try that, >3<

sorry im not much help >3<

Staxel
08-31-2010, 03:52 PM
It's not the size it's more the angle of how it's been cut. I donno maybe I didn't follow the grain properly? Thanks for your help you're the only one T-T

YukinaKipling
08-31-2010, 04:49 PM
What do you mean that you can't get it to fit right? Is the blazer to small? the collar?
Ref. pictures of the actual garment would be helpful

Staxel
08-31-2010, 06:08 PM
Very good point ;D It's the collar that I'm having trouble with.

[Full Front View] (http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj125/stephanie-seizure/DSCF1266.jpg)
Collar - Back (http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj125/stephanie-seizure/DSCF1267.jpg)
Under Collar - Side (Sewn to the seam of the armhole, where the front and back pieces are connected) (http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj125/stephanie-seizure/DSCF1268.jpg)
Collar - It doesn't connect! Oh no T-T (http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj125/stephanie-seizure/DSCF1269.jpg)
Collar - And when I try and make it connect. . . There's my problem =( (http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj125/stephanie-seizure/DSCF1271.jpg)
Collar - The part of the collar that has the interfacing (http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj125/stephanie-seizure/DSCF1273.jpg)

Hope that helps T-T

YukinaKipling
08-31-2010, 06:19 PM
Yes, that helps alot. Ok, it looks like the collar part around the neck is to big, that why it skrunches around the neckline, making it bulky, not flat. You can cut around the neckline of just that part to make it smaller. (so like a U shape, so reduce the amount from say 4" to 3")

as for the rest of the collar being to small, you can either just re do the whole thing (which I reccomend) or enlongate it by adding a seam in the center back and adding in some more fabric.

Also, just a personal experince tip, don't listen to notches, they can be misleading at times. Work with the fabric until it works, relying solely on notches is just confusing.

As for the grain line, I don't follow that, it just strecthes a certain way if you do. If something is too small, it's too small. Cutting along the grain won't fix that

Ok, sorry, trying to help, if none of that makes sense sorry

Staxel
08-31-2010, 06:40 PM
It does help thanks so much ^^
Nah when it comes to notches if their close enough then that's good enough ;D
As for grain line I tend to find it lies and folds better if it's cut right but that's just my opinion, although I guess it depends on the fabric ^^
Makes perfect sense to me! Thanks again ^^

Kelley
09-01-2010, 03:24 AM
Grain is actually very important... If you don't "follow it" things might not work, or might not drape properly, and your garment will not be as stable as it could be or might not fit right or might distort and warp with wear.

Eh.



I admit, I'm having trouble understanding what I'm looking at from the pictures. It looks like maybe the interfacing isn't standing up or maybe you're missing a piece, or maybe I'm not sure.

The back collar piece should "roll" so that it's not pressed flat at the seam all the way around, if that makes sense. The back collar should "stand up" a little".

I'm sorry I can't be of more help, I just can't see what's going on. Also, collars generally use pretty darn stiff interfacing, and yours looks very light - maybe that's a problem ?

YukinaKipling
09-01-2010, 03:31 AM
Grain is actually very important... If you don't "follow it" things might not work, or might not drape properly, and your garment will not be as stable as it could be or might not fit right or might distort and warp with wear.



The only time that I really see grain to matter is with a 2 way stretch. Also, not following it makes those "might" situations happen, but as you stated "might". Following the grain is not a definite, just a good idea. But that's just the way I work. It may not work for others, but the way I've been doing it works fine. e.e

Staxel
09-01-2010, 07:51 AM
I'm definitely not missing a piece =S
If you look in the 5th picture where the two pieces are meant to connect the top part of the collar is... well... far from sitting right.
You see where it's like folding up?

Kelley
09-02-2010, 02:10 AM
The only time that I really see grain to matter is with a 2 way stretch. Also, not following it makes those "might" situations happen, but as you stated "might". Following the grain is not a definite, just a good idea. But that's just the way I work. It may not work for others, but the way I've been doing it works fine. e.e

Dude, the VAST MAJORITY of fabrics have a MUCH GREATER stretch on the bias.

This can make a HUGE difference.

It WILL GUARANTEED make a difference. The reason I said "might" is because, yeah, a lot of people without much experience who are making low-quality costumes aren't going to notice - I'm not trying to be nasty saying that, I was at that point once, too. But with more experience, it's pretty obvious looking back.


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I'm not sure what to tell you - I just can't really tell what's going on. Is the interfacing collapsing ? What happens if you pin the undercollar and lapel together like where they would be sewn ?

tsuoi_kaze
09-02-2010, 03:37 PM
Also, just a personal experince tip, don't listen to notches, they can be misleading at times. Work with the fabric until it works, relying solely on notches is just confusing.



This. To me it almost looks like your problem is because you're following the notches, but it was kind of hard to tell through just a picture. I don't even cut the notches out anymore when preparing my pieces because following them always leads to BAD THINGS.

Staxel
09-03-2010, 03:03 PM
This. To me it almost looks like your problem is because you're following the notches, but it was kind of hard to tell through just a picture. I don't even cut the notches out anymore when preparing my pieces because following them always leads to BAD THINGS.

I'm not actually following the notches - as I mentioned before - I was just taught that way and still do it out of habit ^^; Sorry for the confusing photos =S
Thanks for your help though ^^

Staxel
09-03-2010, 06:53 PM
I'm not sure what to tell you - I just can't really tell what's going on. Is the interfacing collapsing ? What happens if you pin the undercollar and lapel together like where they would be sewn ?

It's almost as if the under-collar isn't long enough because it doesn't fit to the front part of the collar (the flap bit at the front). However whenever I lengthen it it just doesn't want to properly. And whenever I get it to fit properly it's too short and I'm right back to the begining *sigh*. I'm tempted to take the other one apart and trace the pieces but I'm afraid that the same thing will happen to that one and then I'll be epically stuck ^^;

meowl
09-04-2010, 01:31 AM
I once made a frock coat and put the collar on *upside down*. I did not discover the mistake until I put on the finished coat. :( I suggest you get some paper towels and re-cut the pattern pieces using toweling for fabric. Pin or tape the pieces together. That gives you a cheap way to flip and rotate pieces to diagnose the problem without damaging the fabric you've already cut. Some other ideas: if the seam allowances are too large they can mess up the way the fabric comes together. When using interfacing, I think I read that the pieces should not have seam allowance. you baste them on, sew only fabric-to-fabric and the interfacing sits between the seams. The extra bulk of interfacing may interfere with how the fabric sews together. Grain does matter in that a fabric may stretch one way and not another. If the collar pattern has a grain line, recut the pieces following the grain as instructed. Good luck!