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Rainbowgasm
09-03-2010, 02:50 PM
So I looked around a little and nothing really looked like what I wanted...
What I want to know is how to make something that loots like the bottom half of this jacket:

reference (http://www.chinanewfashion.com/bookpic/Kuroshitsuji-Ciel-Phantomhive-Cosplay1258208017873-P-11766.JPG)

Are they just un pressed pleats or is there gathering or something?

Lydialulu
09-03-2010, 05:39 PM
i think its just the back piece extended and flared out, resulting in the fabric naturally falling that way from a narrower base

Kama
09-03-2010, 07:23 PM
It's a traditional frock coat. They all, unfortunately, look like that in the back. If it helps, think of it without the slit there and think of it as a dress (not a far stretch for Ciel). The top of it will fit you more snugly, going into the bottom which will flair out. There's more fabric at the bottom than at the top, creating that look. Technically that black thing in the back would be holding the extra panels so they didn't flop loose and actually look like a skirt. If you make it more than one piece, it's gathered rather than pleated. Gather it around where the black thing in the back is to hide your stitches.

My best idea for an instructional is to say look into frock coats for how to do those. I'm sorry I can't tell you because I'm honestly not sure just by looking. Here is a thread for someone looking for almost the same thing, including the pattern they want to use (http://community.livejournal.com/steamfashion/1749686.html). And here are professional patterns that may help if you hunt around or buy one of them (1) (https://www.reconstructinghistory.com/rh703-1720s-frock-coat.php?s=&c=22&d=36&q=1&p=68&w=21) (2) (http://www.amazon.com/Reconstructing-History-1830s-Frock-Pattern/dp/B001RB5AY2)

Kelley
09-04-2010, 06:09 AM
It is NOT a traditional frock coat. It's closest to an 1820-30s frock coat when it comes to rough silhouette - and that might make a good "starting point" for a pattern, but you'd still need to do a great deal of modification.

They aren't pleats or gathering - it's simply a full skirt.

The black thing is just decorative. It is not covering any pleats or gathering.

I don't have a photographic memory - so I would have to track down images from the manga to see if this one example of construction is accurate to what was drawn.


There are sometimes very small pressed pleats in the tails of coats at the seam line - however, the Kuroshitsuji coat does not seem to have these. You could add them in as a detail - but I think that's overcomplicating things.


IT IS JUST A FULL SKIRT. Please do not add pleats or gathers - you will not get the same look and the skirt will not fall the right way.

There are some women's bodices that have endings like on this frock coat, I don't remember a pattern off-hand, but if you're not able to immediately visualise the flat shapes you need for this, that might be a good jumping-off point. I would probably err on the side of making it too full and trim it down during fitting so that the skirt drapes correctly.

Kama
09-04-2010, 07:40 PM
Oops. I was thinking traditional frock. Not traditional frock coat. A traditional frock is actually a dress that buttons up but...yeah. You can find patterns for short frocks as well to help out. Thanks for fixing that, Kelley.

I'd like to clarify to gather it if you make it into two pieces rather than cutting the coat into one. Not if it's one piece (as it probably should be) but I've seen them done in two and that does require gathering to get the bottom piece to actually fit.

http://www.betterthanstuff.com/coattutorial.html I found this a useful place to start, even with a pattern. Good luck!

Rainbowgasm
09-18-2010, 04:04 PM
I'm guessing its safe to say Ciel probably wears female made patterns right? Or because I'm actually female, even if the character is male, getting a female pattern still is the idea so it wont look lumpy in places? XP