View Full Version : Bumrolls or wired bustles
09-19-2011, 04:53 PM
I am currently researching costumes for the Victorian Era and when it comes to the underwear, these are the two options I was faced with. The choice between making and using a bumroll or wired bustle (Like this http://www.trulyvictorian.net/tvxcart/product.php?productid=20&cat=3&page=1)
What are the pros and cons?
Which are the more accurate historically? I'm assuming the wired bustle as all of the reference books and plates I got only mentioned this.
09-19-2011, 07:58 PM
Bum rolls are far earlier period than Victorian. I think you're thinking of a bustle pad, which is somewhat similar, but a different shape. Both would have been accurate, it just depends on what style you're doing.
09-19-2011, 09:21 PM
Yes the bustle pad, thanks. I was looking at a website showing how it's done and the writer kept calling it a bumroll so it stuck.
I'm thinking of doing an evening/walking dress so it will not have a train. I understand that the pad wouldn't be a good choice if the fabric is heavy. And I see from images that the wired ones will keep the shape. I haven't worn one before I just need feedback to those who had.
09-19-2011, 11:17 PM
It depends exactly where in the two bustle periods you're aiming for, and how big you want your bustle. For a smaller bustle you can use a bustle pad and/or rows of stiff ruffles; for one of the big almost-horizontal bustles you'll need a proper cage bustle, especially if your dress fabric is heavy.
09-20-2011, 09:22 AM
I don't have a scanner to show the plate I was aiming for but this is the closest I could find.
The skirt doesn`t really go out that much so a bum pad would suffice? Would a bum pad with a ruffle on top of it will be ok too, or is that overkill?
09-20-2011, 01:29 PM
That's late 70s (1979 according to the filename) so that's actually in the Natural Form period between the two bustle periods. Natural Form dresses were fairly narrow and close to the body, so if that's the silhouette you're going for, you'll hardly need much at all, it's mostly draping of the fabrics in back. A small pad and/or stiff ruffles is plenty; see how much fullness you get from the dress fabrics themselves and then add some padding as needed.
09-21-2011, 02:53 PM
I see. Sometimes I don't want to spend a lot of time for something underneath and unseen but I plan to invest on making a wired bustle in the future.
Thanks Sarcasm-hime and Elycium.