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View Full Version : Steel Boning vs. Spiral Steel Boning AND/OR Jacket Construction


Tzigana
09-10-2012, 07:07 PM
The title is fairly straightfoward. I am making a corset to go with one of my cosplays and I am curious about different opinions about steel boning vs. spiral steel boning. I am, of course, opening to other suggestions, but I am more partial to these than their plastic counterparts. Which do you prefer to use?

Side note (instead of posting two threads which I would feel silly doing...):
The cosplay that I am making the corset for is Yuuko Ichihara's Victorian Riding Habit outfit. Reference (http://gallery.minitokyo.net/view/350793). I have found a few riding jacket patterns that would be simple enough to modify, but I am still hoping for something more spot on. Any suggestions for patterns that are similar?

Mehdia
09-10-2012, 07:27 PM
For the corset, I would use spiral steel in the more curved seams and channels and straight steel boning in the straighter seams and channels. You want the spiral in the curved ones because they will conform to the seam shape and will still give you the proper curves. Straight steel will help give you a flatter look across the stomach and all where you want it to be smoother and flatter.

Tzigana
09-10-2012, 07:53 PM
For the corset, I would use spiral steel in the more curved seams and channels and straight steel boning in the straighter seams and channels. You want the spiral in the curved ones because they will conform to the seam shape and will still give you the proper curves. Straight steel will help give you a flatter look across the stomach and all where you want it to be smoother and flatter.

Very helpful, thank you. :D

Mehdia
09-11-2012, 03:16 AM
No problem. I make lots of corsets (fashion, Victorian, waist cinchers, underbusts...), so I'm used to deciding what kind of boning to use where^^ If you have any more questions, please feel free to ask.

Sarcasm-hime
09-11-2012, 12:22 PM
You definitely want spring steel (the straight ones) at least in center front and center back by the laces.

For the pattern, try Truly Victorian (www.trulyvictorian.com). They might have something similar.

Tzigana
09-11-2012, 07:57 PM
Thank you all for your help. I purchased my pattern from Mantua Maker along with a bustle pattern. I was wondering what kind of boning is typically used in bustles and where would you recommend getting this boning from? I heard that hoop skirt steel boning is helpful, but I don't know where to begin purchasing this.

Mehdia
09-11-2012, 11:57 PM
Go to corsetmaking.com That's where I get all my boning. They also carry hoop steel on the site as well. And for the corset boning, you will need to know how long your finished seams are before you order it because you purchase it by the length.

tardismuch
12-09-2012, 12:59 PM
i agree with mehdia. i like spiral steel for the sides, its more flexible and it will curve inwards better than spring steel. however spring steel is good for providing the support in the front and back.
ALSO, checkout Lucy's corsetry, her youtube has great corset making videos. :)

Ororo Monroe
12-09-2012, 05:08 PM
Like modern bras, corsets rely on cut, fabric, and boning for support. What kind of bra do you wear? It will give you a very good idea of what kind of corset you need.

Ororo Monroe
12-09-2012, 05:26 PM
I also second the Truly Victorian Riding Pattern. I Googled double breasted riding habit and this is the closest I got. Unfortunately it's not a pattern...http://ridingaside.blogspot.com/2012/06/and-even-more-historic-riding-habits.html It's an 1885 double breasted riding habit.

scootergirl
07-31-2013, 12:33 PM
I found a really great, and cheap replacement for 'hoop steel'...in my latest project, I used steel strapping ( available at most packaging supply stores)...it comes in 1/2 inch and 3/4 inch and is pennies a foot.

A word or two on boning....flat steel is more often coated than spring steel...if you're using spring steel--it isn't coated, be sure to tell your dry cleaner.....some of their chemicals can cause the bones to rust....I've seen it go right through the fabric...it wasn't pretty...and then the dry cleaner just shrugged it off because they weren't told at the time it was spring steel ( uncoated) when it was brought in for cleaning.

Cheers,
Jenn

dizzymonochrome
04-22-2014, 05:19 PM
I found a really great, and cheap replacement for 'hoop steel'...in my latest project, I used steel strapping ( available at most packaging supply stores)...it comes in 1/2 inch and 3/4 inch and is pennies a foot.

A word or two on boning....flat steel is more often coated than spring steel...if you're using spring steel--it isn't coated, be sure to tell your dry cleaner.....some of their chemicals can cause the bones to rust....I've seen it go right through the fabric...it wasn't pretty...and then the dry cleaner just shrugged it off because they weren't told at the time it was spring steel ( uncoated) when it was brought in for cleaning.

Cheers,
Jenn

Yes, on that note, I've been researching historical corsets myself and it seems they used to remove steel boning before washing even back then. Many corsets in the Symington Collection are missing their boning because someone took it out to wash the corset and never put it back.

Satine
04-24-2014, 12:56 AM
And baleen often formed permanent curves so those bones would be taken out and turned around. Yep, "real" boning does exactly what plastic boning does ;) So that is another potential cause of missing bones. Ditto for bones in the garments themselves and for extra support.

Yuuko's riding ensemble is not really going to need anything terribly difficult as there is little to indicate any real seams. Her sleeve is very fitted though with an obvious large shoulder pad so I'd be more tempted to recommend a modern suit pattern especially given the trend for 80s fashion recently.
http://www.simplicity.com/p-11720-misses-unlined-jacket-with-collar-and-finishing-variations.aspx
I'd be tempted to recommend something like this with swap out collar and other details and then fit that to shape over the corset once made.
http://voguepatterns.mccall.com/v8333-products-5652.php?page_id=262
Though this is a lovely lovely garment. It also has seams in the right places for adjusting to create a little kick out at the wrist and for the button details to follow. And with the two part sleave you can add ease at the top for a bit of extra height only at the top of the shoulder. It is advanced but her books are easy to follow and I'd suspect she'd have some reference to them.

lemuries
04-24-2014, 09:02 AM
The cosplay that I am making the corset for is Yuuko Ichihara's Victorian Riding Habit outfit. Reference (http://gallery.minitokyo.net/view/350793). I have found a few riding jacket patterns that would be simple enough to modify, but I am still hoping for something more spot on. Any suggestions for patterns that are similar?
I'm a little concerned about all the talk of double-breasted riding patterns, because that reference picture looks more like it's single-breasted with a column of buttons on either side of the buttons that hold the jacket closed.

Here's a picture of a cosplayer (http://cosplayers.acparadise.com/50966/50966-19918-1.jpg)in her riding jacket, to help illustrate.

I hope, Tzigana, that you are not making the double-breasted riding jacket from Truly Victorian?