I'm in the research phase for a historically accurate version of Madame Red, the bustle dress she wears when she makes her debut in chapter 6 (?) of the manga. I love Kuroshitsuji, but since I also love the real-world late Victorian era (specifically the fashion), I have to try really hard to turn off the historian half of my brain to suspend my disbelief. This is going to be an attempt to bring together the best of both worlds. And, without further ado here's what I plan on changing to make the design period correct.


[B]Hat:[/B] Really wide hats like that weren't seen until the Edwardian era, maybe a bit earlier in the late 90s, but not in 1888. The few options for hat shapes I'm throwing around are either a boater (like in this Tissot painting from 1874 [url]http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Tissot_shipboard_detail.jpg)[/url], or the flowerpot hat (both of these are examples, just with different brims [url]http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Robe_en_surah_uniRobe_en_mousseline_de_laine.png)[/url]. The boater is closer to Madame Red's hat, but the Tissot painting is the ONLY pre mid 1890s example I've seen of a woman wearing a boater. Also, the flowerpot hat is a quintessential 1880s design.

[B]Bodice:[/B] This is actually pretty close, aside from a few nitpicky things like cut and sleeve shape. I already have this pattern [url]http://trulyvictorian.com/catalog/464.html[/url] which, with a few small modifications will work really well while still maintaining historical accuracy.

[B]Skirt:[/B] Changes to shape mostly. Nice, even line to the floor instead of mid-calf length and that weird getting narrower at the ankle thing.

[B]Overskirt:[/B] I'm going to have to go with a style a few years earlier than 1888 in the interest of not straying too far from the character design. 1888 had a lot of assymetrical drapery, I want symetrical, so I'm probably going with an 84-86 style. Keeping the front swag, probably omitting the giant butt bow and going with two long, pleated tails in the back. Still not decided on the butt bow. I have seen period reference images for little girls dresses with butt bows ( [url]http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Albert_vonKellerKleinePariserin1883.jpg[/url]) but none for adults. Maybe small, decorative bows on the overskirt to keep the motif?

[B]Underpinnings:[/B] The usual necessities: corset, wire bustle, petticoats...RED petticoats! It's period, white pettis were reserved for special occasions so they wouldn't be trailed through the dirt on a daily basis. Colors hide dirt better. I'm also tempted to make bright red combination underwear. Not period accurate, but tempting.

Haven't decided what to do about the hair yet. Her short hair is plot significant, but period references to women with short hair are few and far between--and so far I've only found ones from the 1860s.