Well, I made both my Ciel and my friend's Sebastian costume.
I modified a women's 'straight' suit pattern for the majority of Ciel. Things like the bustle and boot-covers were drafted from scratch. All the stripes were glued on individually with hardcore trim glue, and the hat was made from scratch. I used buckram and wire for the infrastructure, and then used the same fabric from the suit so it would match, then I lined it so it wouldn't look yucky on the inside. :p The boot covers (which are not featured in these photos) have 8 buttons each, which button up through scallop buttonholes.
I used velveteen for the vest, and parts of the coat like the lapels and cuffs to make the outfit coordinate. I sewed decorative buttons on the front of the vest, but it closes in the back with hooks & eyes. The ruffly shirt is made out of 'silk essence' which had a nice sheen to it, but was lightweight and wouldn't weigh down the costume too much. The bow is detachable via a snap.
Aaaaaand for the walking stick, I crafted my own little skull head out of model magic (using tin foil to bulk it out), and spray painted/dry-brushed it for desired shadowing. He is glued atop a curtain rod, solely for the purpose of fitting in luggage and being TSA-friendly ... oh, air travel, how I hate the constraints of thee.
Megacon 2010 - Judge's Award "Sweet Sweet Passion!