All of it! The costume is made up of multiple layers, which include the shite shirt, collar ruffle and brooch and over-jacket, complete with a pleat-cut at the back. The skirt is in three parts, with a simple underskirt, a draped front-apron with edged folds, and a back-skirt with full bustle. It's really quite lovely, and drapes ever so elegantly! Best part of the costume? I GOT TO WEAR A BUTT-PILLOW.
Best Craftmanship at Wai-Con 2009