Originally Posted by Eleryth
Came across this term the other day, and didn't find it on sewing.org.
What is a French-felled seam?
I don't know if it's the same as a French seam or a flat-felled seam, or if it's a French seam that's been ironed over and then sewn (felled?).
This page has a picture and talks about it a little bit (http://www.amefird.com/puckerwoven.htm
), and although I'm usually good with understanding diagrams, I can't quite figure out how one would actually sew that. All the searches in google for "how to" and "french felled" kept bringing up references of a "how to repair your outdoor equipment" book review. :/
EDIT: Ok, I think I figured it out (I took some paper and folded it and pretended it was fabric).
How useful is this stitch? It seems rather permanent, and only for something that you know fits exactly due to the way it's folded over. I think they might be handy on something like a yukata or kimono since it's very straight lines with little variation.
Does anyone use French-felled seams?
French seams are usually required for delicate fabrics like a chiffon. Something that tears and frays REALLY easily or a light a weave. The normal French seam is when you place wrong sides together and sew 1/4" and then fold it back over right sides together and sew 1/4". That way you encase the seam in on itself.
A felled seam, regular flat felled or a french felled, means you stitch on the outside for extra protection. High priced jeans use flat felled seams for denim. A french felled would just be added protection as well, since you've made a small pocket for the seam inside your garment with your french seam, to anchor it you'd press it towards the back of the garment and stitch on down the edge that isn't sewn. You probably wouldn't do that for a fancy chiffon garment, but maybe if you were making a very lightweight jacket with outside stitching accents that would match.
Hope that helps, my measurements may be a bit off, I'm going by memory and I don't use these types of seams frequently. Just remembering from class.