Costume Construction Tutorial: Japan (Hetalia)
Step 3 ~ Attatching the surface collar to the jacket, Attatching the back collar to the jacket lining.
Use no-stretch tape on the edge of the collar and line the inside-out surface collar up with the back jacket as-shown. Sew the collar to the jacket. Cut small triangles into the left-over bits of the collar surface piece as shown in the 2nd figure and collapse the collar upward, sewing these securely to the bottom of the surface collar with one more finishing line. Next, line up the back collar with the center line of the facing/lining and sew, process the stitched back collar the same way you did the front.
Step 4 ~ Sew the lining and jacket pieces together
Turn the front collar and center of the front-jacket pieces right-side out and line them up with the front sides (facing inward) of the back collar and lining as shown before sewing together as-indicated. At this time, be sure to be careful sewing the corners. It's okay to stop, tie off your thread and begin again to get a clean corner and nice tailored-look when the pieces are turned back.
Step 5 ~ Finish the collar and sew the still-open sides of the jacket together
Turn the lining/facing over so that it's on the inside. Make sure the corners have all turned cleanly before moving on. Now sew the jacket closed at the sides from the sleeve until the slit end as-indicated in the pattern. You may want to hand sew under the sleeves for a bit of extra reinforcement to avoid any unravelling or pulls later on.
Step 6 ~ Construct Sleeves and Shoulder-Pieces
Sew together one side of each inner and outer sleeve then fold over the bottom cuff and add vinyl decoration pieces. Add interfacing to the black shoulder tab and sew around the outer edge, then add the vinyl trim to the edges. Vinyl shows needle holes easily, so it's a good idea to finish these pieces with a bit of spray on glue to close up any holes.
Step 7 ~ Finish the sleeves and attatch to the jacket
Line up and sew closed the remaining edges of the inner and outer sleeves. Turn the sleeves inside out and locate the mountain (the uppermost point) and the valley (the lowermost point) of the sleeve. It may be helpful to iron a guideline into the sleeves. After finishing the opening of the sleeve, line it up with the sleeve opening in the jacket (the mountain should line up with the top seam, the valley with the bottom). Incorporate the outer piece of the shoulder tab while sewing the sleeve on in a circular line around the opening.
Step 8 ~ Finish the jacket with shoulder pads and buttons
Line up the shoulderpads with the inside of the jacket and hand-sew them on. Turn the jacket right-side-out and add buttonholes and buttons to the front of the jacket and the shoulder tabs to finish.
How to Make the Pants
Retro pants with wide legs
These specially-cut pants have a retro sillouette all their own. The legs are a bit long and should fall over the top of your shoes for a slightly too-big Japan-ish look. Don't forget to finish them by pressing in a center line before wear!
-white twill (included in the measurements for the jacket)
-a zipper (22cm long x 1)
-no-stretch tape 1.2cm wide (as needed)
(continued in the next post)