1. I actually ended up doing a wing frame so I can take it all apart; the wire attaches in the back and is not part of the bodice.
2. Because I believe it is actually tricot lame they used and I could not find any I liked. Because as I studied more it really felt like they doubled over at the hem so there was fabric on the underside. However, I couldn't find a good weight tricot lame. Actually lycra while heavy works well and is supported well by the horsehair braid.