Sincerely Sorry hun, but apparently midpost, we moved apartments... @_@ Sorry about that... no internet for now but since I have some at the moment....
take one copy and cut it at the bicep section where you want the top sleeve to end on your arm, then cut that where you want the seam to be to make it that Saucer shape
Working with the upper half of the new top sleeve. (From Top to bottom)
Fold it in half so that the armscye (The rounded shoulder part) is in half, that top point of the arc will now be your center point. Mark it with a dot, then reinforce it with a piece of tape.
From there, using the dot as your center point, make a couple radiating lines that end on the new bottom of the sleeve hem. (5-6 lines should do the trick)
You're going to perform a manuver called Slashing and Spreading, where you cut along the lines (TO BUT NOT and I STRESS NOT THROUGH THE CENTER POINT) and spread them out to give you LOTS of extra space between the pieces.
Place this on top of another piece of paper, and tape it down, then trace around it. As is the piece will be very pointy, but you want to use the center point at the hem (Where you folded the piece in half) and curve out from there making a clean curve to where the underarm seam is.
Working with the bottom half (From Bottom to Top)
Take the bottom half of the upper sleeve, and fold it in half matching up underarm seams and now using the hem (Bottom) point as your centerpoint, reinforce with tape.
Make your radiating lines, (do the same amount of lines and areas of slashing as the upper sleeve. Also use the same amount of excess between the pieces as you do with the upper sleeve)
This time, you will be doing it from bottom to top, so that the seam along the sleeve center ends up curved out to give you that Lantern shape.
For example. I used 1.5 inches per slash, to give the excess fluff I wanted I would repeat that to the lower part as well... but this time it would be towards the upper sleeve, away from the hem of the bottom part.
Curve out both your hem which will now be more rounded, and your bicep seam
When you sew these two pieces together it will have a lantern like shape, if you want more body I suggest adding a medium weight or light weight fusible interfacing unless you are looking for a more drapey silhouette...
Katsucon 2014, Otakon 2014