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[Uerria]

Hii! So, I could really use some help with this... I'd just like to find out the name. I don't really want to buy a pattern...

http://manga.animea.net/pandora-hear...7-page-23.html

http://www.amazondrygoods.com/produc...36410_zoom.gif

I'm talking about the bottom right hand corner. I've looked for so long, and I found "huguenot skirt" but I don't get much out of that search...
Thanks for any help!

[scuryghost]

Hmm, unless I'm misunderstanding it seems like you might be looking for a bustle skirt.

[Penlowe]

I'd call it a bustle too. Bustles went through a variety of phases during their popularity, from a general voluminousness toward the back of an already large skirt like you see there, to the huge hump poking off the back end of an otherwise curve hugging shape as it's last gasp in the 1890's.
Also remember: artists aren't necessarily aiming toward some already existing period or theme, they make it up as they go, which means it may not fit one specific category or title easily.

To make that skirt:
I'd go with a gathered waist all around to get the effect seen there.
I'd use six to ten wedge shaped panels for the skirt depending on fabric, hoop/ petticoat/ bustle size & size of the wearer.
I'd concentrate the gathering around the back half of the skirt. (say two panels in front and four in back ish)
Cut the side and back panels gradually longer to allow for the bustle underneath. Draping would work best to assure a floor length all around. Obviously, the bustle/ hoop/ petticoat need to be acquired/ made first to properly fit the skirt over them.

[Uerria]

Thanks so much! I was looking up circle skirts and pretty generic things before this like "Victorian dress". -shot-

Penlowe, that was extremely helpful, thank you! Saved me from horrible headaches. |:

[Penlowe]

Skirts like that are reasonably simple in the kinds of skills needed to do a good job, but rather time consuming in that it's just so... much... fabric... You can literally sew a mile of seams on a skirt like that.
I'd give myself three hours to cut and assemble that skirt (including a real hem, not iron tape or left raw). If you are an absolute beginner, give yourself a whole day (with lunch & breaks of course).

Now making a hoop is a whole 'nother ball game. Petticoats are easy (see above about time consuming sewing and multiply by three) but hoops require a bit more skill. Luckily the major pattern makers have gotten in touch with people who sew and released some very good patterns for historical costuming. Then you have to learn how to walk, sit, & use the facilities while wearing the hoop. Yup, petticoats are usually the way I go.

[Uerria]

Ah I was just about to do some research of the petticoat part of it... I'm glad I won't be the one wearing this cosplay. XD; I mean I don't really have much time to be sewing ruffles for hours... D: CHOICESSSS! Not sure which would be a better choice though...

[Moofingham]

I'm not an expert in Victorian fashion by any sense but that shape of skirt seems either like an early bustle period or belle epoche period skirt. I know you don't want to buy a pattern but: http://www.trulyvictorian.net/tvxcart/home.php is an excellent site for them, but could also be a good place to figure out how much material you would likely need for a skirt like that and shows you the kind of undergarments need to support that kind of skirt.

Oh, and if there are a lot of pleats needed for that one, try looking up "fork pleating" It looks like it might be a super easy way to quickly make pleats for these kind of clothes. I'm about to embark on a ruffle/pleat making adventure, so I'm hoping it will come in handy myself.

[Penlowe]

Originally Posted by Uerria

Ah I was just about to do some research of the petticoat part of it... I'm glad I won't be the one wearing this cosplay. XD; I mean I don't really have much time to be sewing ruffles for hours... D: CHOICESSSS! Not sure which would be a better choice though...

Check the consignment shops in the better part of your town, sometimes petticoats bought to go with party dresses get sold separately. $30-50 for a good one second hand beats days and days of ruffling in my book.

[Uerria]

This website seems really helpful. Thank you! My friend and I decided to buy a petticoat to save the time and effort.

Ah, I was also wondering, if you two are still lurking, do you know if this type of ruffles has an actual name? http://www.mangareader.net/pandora-hearts/67/5 This is a better picture. The vertical ones... ;-; The horizontal ones seem like box pleats to me... or i could be wrong...

[moogles1989]

very late victorian possibly extremely early edwardian

[Penlowe]

italicized words = proper sewing terminology

Ah, nope, no special name comes to mind beyond "ruffle". The key to getting ruffles to fall like that is mostly in the fabric choice. When a ruffle goes horizontally around a dress, it is usually with the grain. When you turn the same ruffle and apply it vertically you are forcing it to fall on the bias. The softer the drape of your fabric, the more likely it will be to sweep & zig zag like the picture instead of just sticking out sideways like fish fins. Cotton broadcloth is out. A polyester crepe would do nicely. (well a silk crepe is probably what the artist was thinking, but I'm sure you have a budget of some sort too)

[moogles1989]

th eruffles going down vertically are called flounces and you make them by drawing a circle than adding the desired width by drawing a bigger circle cutting it out and cutting it open than let the fabric drop and it makes the flouns/cascading ruffle

for it fully function your going to want a light weight material like chiffon, or charmeuse or shantung