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[PaeJunho]

SO I've run into a snap with my props.... it is IMPOSSIBLE to find pink insulation foam in Hawaii! Lowe's has some blue foam, but it's the 2" thick stuff (I need much thinner, like .5-1") and they want $50 a sheet for it.

Home Depot will special order it for around $15 per sheet, but I would have to buy a whole pallet (8 sheets).

Has anyone found a good source for the stuff on Oahu? I'm contemplating just using the standard white foam (Which is super cheap out here, why such a disparity???) since the finished product will be covered in fiberglass anyway.

Thoughts? Ideas? Headaches with pictures?

[verdatum]

If you use hot-tools, white-foam is just fine. The heat roasts right through the little beads so it is no big deal.

If you're working with blades, rasps and sandpaper, white foam is a headache. the little beads pop right out while you're trying to smooth the work giving you a bumpy surface that does translate through the fiberglass.

With experience and some power sanders, you can get pretty good at smoothing expanded foam, but until you get in the practice, it is just annoying.

After fiberglassing, you can fix flaws like this by slathering on Bondo autobody filler putty and sanding it smooth, but it's just one of those yet-another-step things that you want to try to avoid as much as possible.

Whatcha makin? I almost wonder if it wouldn't be easiest for someone to cut up some chunks and ship it to you standard mail. Pieces can be securely rejoined pretty easily with Gorilla glue and some straps.

[PaeJunho]

I know it's kind of cliche, but I'm working on a Buster Sword as my first project. I've got tons of stagecraft experience, but it's the first time I've done something like this.

[verdatum]

You're in luck in that you're starting with a nice easy shape; just a collection of intersecting flat planes, followed by 2 bored holes. The only difficult part is making the hole for the handle.

You might be able to get away with using expanded white foam by using a razor sharp, long, thin blade, such as a stamped non-serrated meat slicer blade. You pretty much just use it slowly and carefully like a saw, peeling lightly away at the waste piece as you cut. Mark your lines all around, and make a shallow knife cut (~1/4'') through all of them; this will allow you to automatically cut straight when you saw through with the slicer blade. Don't use pressure, let the blade do the work.

[PaeJunho]

I actually have this all planned out, and it's a little different than any version I've seen before. Basically, the handle runs through most of the sword, but as it enters the hand guard, it bends 90 degrees toward the back of the sword and continues for about 2", then bends straight and continues most of the length of the "spine" of the sword. This is for added support, and it bend like that to facilitate the materia holes. My plan is to sandwich the PVC "Backbone" between two 3/4" thick pieces of foam, carve the rough details, fiberglass, and finish.

Hope I explained that alright, once I get my blueprints scanned in, it will be easier to follow

[2DLogic]

Originally Posted by PaeJunho

I actually have this all planned out, and it's a little different than any version I've seen before. Basically, the handle runs through most of the sword, but as it enters the hand guard, it bends 90 degrees toward the back of the sword and continues for about 2", then bends straight and continues most of the length of the "spine" of the sword. This is for added support, and it bend like that to facilitate the materia holes. My plan is to sandwich the PVC "Backbone" between two 3/4" thick pieces of foam, carve the rough details, fiberglass, and finish.

Hope I explained that alright, once I get my blueprints scanned in, it will be easier to follow

This is a solid plan, and is the same way I've used in the past for several sword projects, including a Buster Sword.
The only thing I'll add is that if you offset the support too much/the weight is too great you may get movement in the hilt which can wallow out the hole where the hilt enters the base of the guard. The way to remedy this while still allowing for holes in the center is to make your "spine" split into a "Y" shape instead of offsetting it to the front or back.

Check for local building supply stores, you may have better luck there than the big box stores like Depot and Lowes. If nothing else, you may find cheaper prices to special order it.

Good luck finding your rigid insulation foam, it really is a great medium to work in, especially for large swords like this.