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Unread 10-12-2012, 01:00 AM   #1
TomatoandScones
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What are these?

I want to make a skirt that has these gathered/tucked/pulled folds in the fabric, and I am at a loss at how to make them. Can you tell me how to do them? Or at least what they're called?

http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_29icqCcBGy...usfreview2.jpg
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Unread 10-12-2012, 06:56 AM   #2
Nostrum
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Erm. I'm drawing a total mental blank.
The only thing that comes to mind is drop pleats. My net's screwed at the moment so I can't google it to check.
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Unread 10-12-2012, 12:03 PM   #3
o01101011
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Its a form of ruching i believe. Its done by making the skirt longer than desired, and pulling up sections with ribbon ties or tacking fabric in spots.
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Unread 10-12-2012, 01:35 PM   #4
Mehdia
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The skirt you linked has a lot more of the little pick-ups (that's what I've called them for years, dunno if it's the right term), but here's a great pattern for a jumping off point. I have it at home and what it is is a straight underskirt and then one that goes over that is cut longer and they have places that match so that you can hand sew the little pick-ups and have that effect.
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Unread 10-12-2012, 05:59 PM   #5
o01101011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mehdia View Post
The skirt you linked has a lot more of the little pick-ups (that's what I've called them for years, dunno if it's the right term), but here's a great pattern
Oooh good pattern!

Here's another one if you'd rather make a dress than a skirt.
http://butterick.mccall.com/b5184-pr...hp?page_id=153
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Unread 10-12-2012, 08:51 PM   #6
rebel-cosplay
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That looks like basically the same concept as bustling, just in point form rather than a cascade.

I would make a long skirt as normal. (Possibly a circle skirt, but that would take an assload of fabric.) Then on the inside of the skirt, put a button, loop, hook part of a hook-and-eye (if the fabric isn't too heavy) or some other anchor point. Directly below that point on the skirt, put the mate of whatever hanging apparatus you used (button loop, tie strings, eye, etc) at a height which when connected makes the proper amount of poofing.
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Unread 10-12-2012, 09:00 PM   #7
SailorDoom
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I *think* this is called a "tufted bustle" and it is made by attaching several pickup points onto the main train on your skirt. You can do that with hooks and eyes, ties, or more permanent thread tacks. Here is a super simple tutorial (for a beginner) to show how something like this is accomplished. http://historicalsewing.com/tutorial...s-bustle-skirt The one in the demo is a little different than your photo -- SO pretty by the way! -- but it will give ya an idea of what is involved in the construction. I can't tell from your photo if this is part of a whole skirt or if it is showing an overskirt (as seen in the tutorial), so that might be something to consider if you're going to go for it. I'm not much of a girly-girly, but I've always wanted a skirt like this -- Jealous! I hope it turns out great!!
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Unread 10-13-2012, 10:25 AM   #8
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When I was selling wedding gowns we only ever called them "pick ups". It's an entirely modern thing (gasp!) first begun in the formal wear industry.

Here is the thing about that style: if not done in a fairly heavy bodied fabric, and worn over a petticoat or hoop, they look like crap. I've seen dozen of commercially produced dresses using this technique, worn without a petticoat, in cheap fabrics: every one of them just looked like the girl got her dress stuck in her underwear O.o Even over a petticoat, but in thin wimpy fabrics they just look like she just slept in her dress.

To look good, the fabric itself must hold some shape without any stuffing or padding inside the folds. The kind of fabrics prom dresses are typically made from will fall completely flat.
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Unread 10-13-2012, 02:13 PM   #9
Mehdia
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Penlowe View Post
When I was selling wedding gowns we only ever called them "pick ups". It's an entirely modern thing (gasp!) first begun in the formal wear industry.

Here is the thing about that style: if not done in a fairly heavy bodied fabric, and worn over a petticoat or hoop, they look like crap. I've seen dozen of commercially produced dresses using this technique, worn without a petticoat, in cheap fabrics: every one of them just looked like the girl got her dress stuck in her underwear O.o Even over a petticoat, but in thin wimpy fabrics they just look like she just slept in her dress.

To look good, the fabric itself must hold some shape without any stuffing or padding inside the folds. The kind of fabrics prom dresses are typically made from will fall completely flat.
Woo hoo! I've been using the "right" term all these years!

But I agree about the weight of the fabric and a petticoat. We just tired on dresses for my brother's wedding that have the pick-ups and they were made of a nice strong satin and had a built in petticoat that was actually good (I pick apart commercial clothing so bad) and it made all the difference in how that dress draped on each of us that tried it on.
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