Go Back   Cosplay.com > Cosplay Construction > Sewing/Fabric Craft

Reply
Thread Tools Rate Thread
Unread 11-13-2012, 08:59 PM   #1
p8ntballsniper8
Whaddya buyin?
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 93
Sleeve question

H'okay, so I have another question. So on my Dark Link costume, with the way the sleeves were sewn, I can't really raise my arm very high. In fact, it cuts off at shoulder height. So much so that I actually ripped one of the seams ><

So I tried re-making the tunic from scratch, but I ran into the same problem. The place where I keep running into trouble is the seam in the armpit. I know this is hard to imagine without photo references or seeing it in front of you (sadly, I have neither) but, one way to describe it would be like the sleeves of a suit or blazer. Anyone have a way around this?
__________________
Costume Progress:
Dark Link - 85%
Human Soarin - 100%

Cons attending -

Sakuracon 2014-Donezo!
EverFree Northwest 2014
p8ntballsniper8 is offline   Reply With Quote
 
Unread 11-13-2012, 09:41 PM   #2
cowsrcute
Registered User
 
cowsrcute's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Posts: 147
Do you use a pattern when you are sewing?

Here is a sleeve pattern. It will be half of the sleeve so double layer your fabric before you cut it out.

Blue is the circumference of the hole on your shirt where your sleeve connects.
Red is the length of the sleeve.

http://i.imgur.com/qyaMK.png

Then you sew the sleeve on like in the picture. The top part of the curve goes on the top of your shoulder and the bottom will be where your armpit is.
cowsrcute is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 11-13-2012, 11:08 PM   #3
Evil Bishounen
Hail to the King
 
Evil Bishounen's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2003
Posts: 1,232
And let me guess: the fabric binds really tightly around the base of the shoulder muscle when you raise your arm?

This is related to the sleeve cap. The sleeve cap is the top of the sleeve pattern piece: it's that big bell curve that you attach to the body of the tunic.

If the sleeve is binding around your shoulder and preventing you from raising your arm, it means that the sleeve cap is way too tall. I'm guessing it's probably 6 or 7 inches tall. You need it to be more like 3 or 4 inches tall.

Sleeve cap height is directly related to how much mobility you have in the garment. The taller the sleeve cap, the nicer the sleeve looks when your arm is down, but the trade-off is that you can't move worth shit and you spend the whole time durping around like a penguin. On the other hand, shortening the sleeve cap will increase your range of motion because the sleeve is becoming more optimized to a raised-arm position. It won't look as nice when your arms are at your sides, but it'll be much more comfortable and liveable.

On an aside, make sure the bottom of the armscye (the arm hole that you attach the sleeve to) is as high in your armpit as possible without being uncomfortable. When the armscye hangs too low, it causes the entire shirt to pull up when you raise your arm.
__________________
FF9 cosplay? Hit me up!

2014: Anime Los Angeles and whatever else falls into my lap

I now have a Tumblr. Sometimes I use it.
Evil Bishounen is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 11-14-2012, 09:02 AM   #4
p8ntballsniper8
Whaddya buyin?
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 93
Quote:
Originally Posted by Evil Bishounen View Post
And let me guess: the fabric binds really tightly around the base of the shoulder muscle when you raise your arm?

This is related to the sleeve cap. The sleeve cap is the top of the sleeve pattern piece: it's that big bell curve that you attach to the body of the tunic.

If the sleeve is binding around your shoulder and preventing you from raising your arm, it means that the sleeve cap is way too tall. I'm guessing it's probably 6 or 7 inches tall. You need it to be more like 3 or 4 inches tall.

Sleeve cap height is directly related to how much mobility you have in the garment. The taller the sleeve cap, the nicer the sleeve looks when your arm is down, but the trade-off is that you can't move worth shit and you spend the whole time durping around like a penguin. On the other hand, shortening the sleeve cap will increase your range of motion because the sleeve is becoming more optimized to a raised-arm position. It won't look as nice when your arms are at your sides, but it'll be much more comfortable and liveable.

On an aside, make sure the bottom of the armscye (the arm hole that you attach the sleeve to) is as high in your armpit as possible without being uncomfortable. When the armscye hangs too low, it causes the entire shirt to pull up when you raise your arm.
^^ This.
__________________
Costume Progress:
Dark Link - 85%
Human Soarin - 100%

Cons attending -

Sakuracon 2014-Donezo!
EverFree Northwest 2014
p8ntballsniper8 is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 11-14-2012, 01:33 PM   #5
Evil Bishounen
Hail to the King
 
Evil Bishounen's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2003
Posts: 1,232
Oh, and I forgot to mention: when you shorten the sleeve cap, you need to widen the bicep to compensate. (The bicep is the width of the sleeve at the base of the sleeve cap, perpendicular to the grainline.)

If you don't do this, the sleeve will no longer fit.
__________________
FF9 cosplay? Hit me up!

2014: Anime Los Angeles and whatever else falls into my lap

I now have a Tumblr. Sometimes I use it.
Evil Bishounen is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools
Rate This Thread
Rate This Thread:

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

vB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Forum Jump


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 01:38 PM.


Copyright 2002-2013 Cosplay.com, LLC. All Rights Reserved.
All comments and posts in our forums are the opinion of the respective poster.