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Unread 02-13-2011, 07:12 PM   #151
AVAAntares
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Panda Majik View Post
I've really got to thank AndSewingisHalftheBattle for providing a lot of the base information for this cosplay. I wanted to thank you guys in person at Ohayocon and was waiting around when you guys were doing your photoshoot Saturday night. I actually waited like half and hour and left for 5 minutes and came back to find you guys had finished and were gone =/
Thanks; I'm glad you found the info useful. I'm so sorry we missed you at Ohayo! We'll be at ACEN next, so maybe we'll see you there?

Your tutorial looks great! I'll include a link to it in the first post in this thread, so others can find the patterns more easily. Thanks for drawing them up so nicely. If you don't mind, I'll also post a link to your tutorial from our own website (AndSewingIsHalfTheBattle.com).
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Last edited by AVAAntares : 02-15-2011 at 02:03 PM.
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Unread 02-20-2011, 06:45 PM   #152
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Originally Posted by AVAAntares View Post

I know blackcat used some kind of plumbing hardware for hers. I used pewter foil on ours, but since it's soft it didn't hold up well over time.
Found a copper plumbing tee (smallest they had, think it was 1/4" from Home depot. I then covered it in metallic tape that was left over from a project my dad was doing, don't know what it was called). Though my new uniform will have something a bit different now that I'm more skilled at finding oddball pieces, (thank you steampunk).

I then hot glued all the cords into it. My shoulder Empulet does have a button hole so the cord was removable from the jacket for cleaning.
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Unread 03-04-2011, 06:07 AM   #153
Panda Majik
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AVAAntares View Post
Thanks; I'm glad you found the info useful. I'm so sorry we missed you at Ohayo! We'll be at ACEN next, so maybe we'll see you there?

Your tutorial looks great! I'll include a link to it in the first post in this thread, so others can find the patterns more easily. Thanks for drawing them up so nicely. If you don't mind, I'll also post a link to your tutorial from our own website (AndSewingIsHalfTheBattle.com).
Oh I almost forgot about this thread. I certainly don't mind you posting it; in fact I'm just glad that more people will be able to find the information they need. I know I personally had some trouble finding a lot of good information on how exactly to make everything so if I can help someone else with that process then I'll be happy.

Btw the pattern I made is scaled 1:1. That means if you print it out (it'll take quite a few sheets of paper and you'll have to tape stuff together) you should have a pattern that matches the dimensions stated.

I don't think I'll be able to make it to ACen but I should be at Colossalcon, not sure if you guys are going?
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Unread 03-04-2011, 04:51 PM   #154
AVAAntares
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Originally Posted by Panda Majik View Post
I don't think I'll be able to make it to ACen but I should be at Colossalcon, not sure if you guys are going?
We're hoping to. Still trying to sort out schedules for the rest of the year, but that's a definite possibility.
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Unread 03-04-2011, 05:47 PM   #155
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Hopefully I can have time to work on something for Colossalcon. It's tough to get in time for other stuff with how much work is involved with med school right now but luckily I have the next week off for spring break. Hope we can actually meet in person at Colossalcon (I've only been to Ohayocon and Colossalcon so far and not sure if I have time to be going to more).
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Unread 05-20-2011, 10:01 PM   #156
Narnian
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Is the butcape knee-length or just below? Also about how wide in the panel between the two butcape flaps in the front?
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Unread 05-25-2011, 08:08 AM   #157
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From what I can tell, the butt cape length should be about halfway between the tops of your boots and your knee. Also, the opening seems to be along the midline of your leg.
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Unread 03-15-2012, 12:05 PM   #158
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I am so grateful that resources like this exist, because otherwise I would be lost.

... Now, if anyone has a tutorial for the fur-lined 'Briggs' jacket from Brotherhood... I'll be your BFF. Honestly, I figure I could just modify the long-jacket design I used for my old Dr. Horrible labcoat, since it is pretty similar in design...

Regardless! Thanks for this, I'm going to take a shot at this. If I fail, expect a listing to show up in the commissions marketplace. >.>
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Unread 05-23-2012, 08:59 PM   #159
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Does anyone have the pattern from animeinsights previously downloaded? I used it for my Riza Jacket, but I've since gotten a new computer and no longer have the pattern. The website is down, and I'm not able to re-download it. Anyone wanna send it to me? Please?
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Unread 12-18-2012, 01:44 PM   #160
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ystarburst View Post
Does anyone have the pattern from animeinsights previously downloaded? I used it for my Riza Jacket, but I've since gotten a new computer and no longer have the pattern. The website is down, and I'm not able to re-download it. Anyone wanna send it to me? Please?
http://animeinsightsarchive.wordpres...stang-cosplay/

Try this link. I don't think the one on ASIHTB is working anymore because the guy moved it to an archive. If that doesn't work PM me and I'll send it to you. :3
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Unread 02-27-2014, 11:06 AM   #161
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Hey,

I'm planning to make a Riza cosplay (I have a little less than a year) but I don't want to cut my hair into bangs. I have the right color for her hair, but I was wondering if anyone knew a good place to get clip-in bangs. I'd prefer physical stores, if possible.

Thanks!
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Unread 04-20-2014, 03:31 AM   #162
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Anyone else interested in a solid plastic 3D-printed version of this gun:
http://www.imfdb.org/wiki/File:FMAB-FN1910-1.jpg ?

Just commissioning the model is a bit expensive before even starting the printer.
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Unread 09-23-2015, 02:18 PM   #163
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Originally Posted by AVAAntares View Post
I have received several PMs from aspiring FMA cosplayers asking about patterns for the butt-capes, military jackets, etc. Since there seems to be some demand for it, I've decided to post a little walk-through!

This tutorial covers pattern design for the FMA military uniforms, as worn by Roy Mustang, Riza Hawkeye, Maes Hughes, et al. It includes design instruction for pants, butt-cape and military jacket. It does NOT include step-by-step assembly instructions ("ease from notch A to circle D and gather the whosit with a whatsit stitch"), because you really, really don't want me to talk about sewing. Why not?

Our FMA costume set -- Ed, Roy, Riza, Hughes, Sciezka -- were the first things my sister or I had ever made from scratch, save for the follow-the-lines home economics projects we were forced to do in school many, many years ago. We have since gone on to make many other costumes and win many awards -- for whatever that's worth -- but the fact still remains that I have had NO formal sewing instruction, so my costume assembly might not make sense from a practical sewing standpoint; I'm still trying to learn the correct sewing terminology, rather than "stitch the thing to that other thing."

I do, however, have something of a grasp on 3-D design and pattern invention. Go figure.


Okay. Disclaimer over. Now, on to the costumes.


FABRIC CHOICE

This is critical -- for a military uniform to look like a military uniform, you will want to choose an appropriate and functional fabric. I used trigger poplin, which worked nicely, though the blue color can wash out a bit under flash. You'll want a fabric that breathes, that holds its shape well, and that looks like something a uniform would be made from (i.e., probably not satin or pleather, unless you're doing a distinct variant).

Also keep in mind that you're trying to match the look of the anime. Match your colors and fabric textures. Some cosplayers choose to use a darker navy blue fabric for their uniforms, which is absolutely fine if that's the look you want, but if you're entering in craftsmanship you might want to think about those accuracy points. ^_^ This also applies to the uniform trim, which is *grey,* not silver, in the source material. It is never represented as being shiny.

So, all that to say, choose your materials wisely.



PANTS

The military pants have a high waistband, are fitted at the top, and blouse dramatically in the legs. To me, they resemble nothing so much as M.C. Hammer pants... ^_^

The easiest method is to start with an existing pants pattern and alter it. Choose a cut that will fit your figure nicely through the hips and butt. The pants should be fitted; you don't want any extra fabric making wrinkles under your butt-cape. Look at suit pants, jeans, etc.

What you're looking for: The pants should have a high, fitted waist, NO PLEATS, and jeans-style pockets in front. (I do not have a pattern number to share, because I modeled my pants on a pair of khakis: I tried on pants until I found the right fit, then cut them apart and traced them to make a pattern. I don't necessarily recommend this method, as it's messy and confusing for a total neophyte.) ^_^ If anyone finds The Perfect Pants Pattern, please share with the group!

Pattern modification (see FIG. A, below):

The military pants pants are bloused and floofy all the way down the legs. Because that is a singularly unflattering cut in real life, I chose to modify it slightly for my costume. I flared the legs gradually, starting from mid-thigh, so that they blouse out over my boots but do not make my hips and thighs look like any bigger than they are. This also has the effect of making me look taller (which was important at the time, as our Ed cosplayer was actually three inches taller than me -- and that's just not right!).

To flare your pants, hold a measuring tape in a wide loop around your calf to decide how poofy you want your pants to be. Using that measurement as a guide, add the appropriate number of inches to each side of the pattern at the widest part of the leg (mid-calf). Then trace a line from that new point back to the point where you want the flare to start (mid-thigh). To get the smooth, rounded look of the FMA pants, curve the line slightly so it bells out away from the leg. At the ankle, curve the line back in toward the leg.

I tapered the bottom 6-8" of the legs in so that they are very narrow at the ankle. That way I can tuck them comfortably into my boots without getting blisters from excess fabric. It also helps keep the wide part of the pants bloused out properly over the boots.

The waistband of your pants pattern will probably need to be doubled in width, at least; the military waistbands should be at least 2.5"-3" wide, depending on your own body type. **Make sure the waistband hits your body at your natural waist, instead of low on your hips.** The butt-cape belt must lie flat over the waistband, and if the pants sit too low, the butt-cape will not hang properly on your body.



BUTT-CAPE

The butt-cape is my favorite part of the costume -- I drafted it as a long A-line, which is flattering to everyone's figure. It also hides a multitude of sins (namely, the too-tight pants I'm wearing...).

There are two secrets to making a good butt-cape. First is the shape: An A-line angles out all the way down, making your figure taller, slimmer and more dynamic. The pattern for the butt-cape will look like a trapezoid cut in half (see FIG. B). The center back line of the butt-cape will be straight up-and down, along the fabric grain. The outside (front) line will run at an angle, so the bottom edge is much longer than the top edge.

When you sew the center back seam, you will end up with the full trapezoid shape. When wrapped around your body, the fabric will flare out at the bottom and give you the nice inverted funnel shape (see PLATE 1).

Secret #2 of a good butt-cape: INTERFACING. Nobody wants a saggy, limp butt-cape! ^_^ Sandwich a layer of interfacing between your layers of blue fabric so that it holds its shape and does not fall straight down around your legs. Use at least a medium weight interfacing (about the stiffness of copy paper or heavier), so it stays crisp and smooth.

Butt-cape Waistbelt (I just invented a term!):

The waistbelt attaches to the top edge of the butt-cape and holds it in place. The waistbelt should be sized long enough to wrap once around your waist with the end of the belt reaching the start of the fabric panel on the opposite side of your body (see FIG. C). The two silver buttons on the front of the belt hold the butt-cape on. Depending on the type of fabric you use for the belt, you can either make button-holes for these buttons and attach them properly to the belt that goes underneath, or you can fake the belt-fastening with hook-and-eye fasteners or snaps and just sew the silver buttons on the outside of the belt. (I did the latter, as I was using nylon web for the belt, and web does not handle buttonholes well...)

Leather belt:

Riza's leather belt, on which hang her holster and ammo pouch, attaches over the silver buttons with overall fasteners. This is a separate piece that snaps on and off; it is not attached to the butt-cape.


Continued in next post...


02/11 UPDATE: Panda Majik has kindly created a downloadable uniform pattern, posted here. It's much more comprehensive than my rough pencil sketches below, and can be scaled and printed!
Hello,
the link of the sewing pattern generates an error, could anybody help please?
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