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#16 |
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See My Etchings.
Join Date: Feb 2012
Posts: 433
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MDF can't be bent (at least, I don't know of any way, it'll just crack and shred), but can be cut and glued relatively easily.
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#17 |
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Lone Wolf
Join Date: Feb 2010
Posts: 715
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So I should just go with scratch bite pad? And that comes before primer? Like primer onto shaped Eva foam?
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#18 |
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Extremely registered user
Join Date: Jul 2006
Posts: 3,012
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EVA foam is a porous flexible surface. You don't need to scuff that. Sintra is a smooth, semi-rigid surface. Scuffing the surface creates microscopic scratches that the primer can settle into, causing it to grip onto the surface much tighter.
And yeah, Scotchbrite pad, they're sold both in the painting supplies section of the hardware store, and the dishwashing section of the grocery store. Chances are decent you've got one in your kitchen now, though you really want to use a fresh clean one. |
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#19 |
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Lone Wolf
Join Date: Feb 2010
Posts: 715
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So just scuff the Sinatra?and apply primer to Eva foam? Then cover with Sinatra?
Do u also have Skype? It's prob easier for me to understand the process. My Skype Spec.leeroy
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#20 |
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Extremely registered user
Join Date: Jul 2006
Posts: 3,012
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Again, "Sintra", not "Sinatra". Sinatra is a dead singer/actor.
You only need to paint whichever material you intend to have visible. If you are using a combination of Sintra and EVA foam, I presume this means you are gluing the EVA foam to the underside of the Sintra for the sake of comfort or adding bulk. This means the EVA foam isn't visible, so it doesn't need any paint or primer. The only purpose of primer is to prepare a surface to be painted. If you do want to use EVA foam as the outer surface of your armor, you generally apply something thick to smooth that porous surface, such as white glue with a touch of water, or multiple layers of gesso. Gesso is itself a primer, so after that you can paint your basecoat. With other substances like white glue, it's not a bad idea to apply a layer of primer. |
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#21 |
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Master level costumer
Join Date: May 2003
Posts: 5,801
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I honestly wouldn't cover the foam with a piece of plastic. Putting a layer of plastic (whether sintra or wonderflex) over the top will look obvious, and may be too thick - it won't look right. If you're thinking the plastic is a quicker or easier way to get the smooth finish before painting, I would say it's...not, really. It's more expensive, for one, than simply coating the EVA foam with something that can be painted. For two, trying to heat-shape the plastic to fit the exact curves and shapes of the EVA foam underneath is going to be an exercise in frustration. I say this as someone who regularly heat-shapes sintra over the top of other materials. For three, wonderflex doesn't heat and shape very evenly, you may end up with fingertip dents all over the plate.
If you use the plastics alone, you're going to end up with much thinner plates of armor. It may look more like the character. If you use foam at all it should be just to bulk up the legs, if your legs aren't that thick. The armor plates are fairly thin (standard-sized, anyway), they just stick out from some kind of under-layer support that makes them stand out from the legs a lot farther than just a pair of pants. Your under-support won't necessarily be painted or even seen for that matter, it can just serve as a place for the armor plates to be attached. verdatum, that joke was so timely you are entirely forgiven. ![]()
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#22 | |
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Lone Wolf
Join Date: Feb 2010
Posts: 715
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Quote:
My original plan is to use Sinatra with eva foam for the leg armor area, and use lighter plastic or eva foam for the thinner plates of armor around the waist
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#23 |
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Lone Wolf
Join Date: Feb 2010
Posts: 715
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Omg I meant to sintra.....
After a long a very mind killing thought I had decided to coat the resin Eva foam with monokote. I am going to test a dumy piece in the mean time to see how we'll the acrylic can stand on the sintra.
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