My go-to pattern for the male versions of the 3rd uniform is the Matrix Coat pattern
. I altered it to not have the back yoke, instead going on a seam all the way down the back, and extended the front so that it was more asymmetrical. I used it for both my Lavi
and an Allan commission
as well as using it for the Cross Marian commission
I'm finishing up. You can cut it at all sorts of lengths and it's got a great basic start for the uniforms. For the pants, I just used a pattern I had that had pants and shorts in various lengths, cut the ones that went to just above the knee, and then used the pattern's lower half to cut the black and then stitched them together. I will have to pull out the pattern I used later and post the number, but it is discontinued I think, so it might not be much help. The pants are easy to make, it's getting all the straps and whatnot on them that is a headache.
For the Lenalee 3rd uniform
, I used this pattern
since I needed a more feminine shape, but extended the front opening as well. The skirt is attached to the jacket between the outer fabric and the lining. I tell you all this because I don't know if you are looking for a more masculine or feminine cut of the jacket and wanted to share the options I've found over the years of making D.Gray-Man uniforms.
The two patterns I linked are so useful! I'm made tons of stuff out of them with one alteration or another made to them. I need to buy spares just in case they eventually fall apart.