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Unread 02-08-2013, 11:33 AM   #1
Ryutso
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Painting Nerf Melee weapons

I'd kinda like this to be the definitive thread for painting nerf weapons like the new Hatchet and the older melee weapons, so let me start off with what I know.

The specific Nerf weapon I'm trying to paint is the older Nerf Warlock Axe


I know that, although it is covered with some type of foam, there's a metal rod running down the middle to give it some rigidity. I also know that the top layer of this foam material does not take paint well. I tried Krylon Fusion, with no primer, and it ran right off before it had time to bond.

Hopefully most of my questions can be answered with things I can get at Home Depot/Lowes or Michael's.

Should I primer it before hand?
Which primer do I use?
Is it better to spray paint or brush?

Thanks for the help guys and gals.
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Unread 02-08-2013, 10:42 PM   #2
grimpirate
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Search for a product called Plast-dip
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Unread 02-08-2013, 11:24 PM   #3
Ryutso
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Search for a product called Plast-dip
http://www.lowes.com/pd_42518-61158-...rchQueryType=1

As far as I can tell, this is a rubber coating supposedly used for tools. This will work just to recolor the axe?
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Unread 02-09-2013, 01:28 PM   #4
Amanita
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It seals the foam, and provides a good base to paint over. Cosplayers who build EVA foam armor use it a lot.
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Unread 02-09-2013, 01:37 PM   #5
animenerd93
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im actually wondering if anything will work. the reason the paint wont bond is due to a protective coat they place on the object so water and such wont ruin it..... im almost araid nothing will stick....
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Unread 02-11-2013, 01:17 PM   #6
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I was under the impression that they just used a closed cell foam, and as such, water naturally wouldn't penetrate it. If there is any sort of special coating, worst case, it can just be sanded away, even if it is a little awkward to sand flexible foam.

Another thing to try is to just wipe the surface with paint thinner (lightly, no pressure) and let it flash off before painting. That's in the Krylon fusion instructions anyway.

Nerf tends to either use polyethylene foam (like their dart foam) or polyurethane foam, like their ballistic balls. The swords from my childhood days were polyethylene, and I don't think they'd switch; it stands up better. Either product should work fine with Krylon Fusion.

Also, your first coat of spraypaint should never be applied thick enough to "run right off" The first coat should be a dusting, and it shouldn't look wet at all. That could be a big part of your problems.

If you fully coat the entire thing, plastidip should work with anything, since it doesn't need to bond to the surface, instead it creates a shell.
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Unread 02-13-2013, 10:16 PM   #7
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Another thing to try is to just wipe the surface with paint thinner (lightly, no pressure) and let it flash off before painting. That's in the Krylon fusion instructions anyway.
Is paint thinner just pure acetone or is it a special formula? Because I've got a couple bottles of nail polish remover hanging around.
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Unread 02-13-2013, 11:13 PM   #8
AshofRebirth
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Nail polish remover =/= acetone. Well.. sort of.
Unless it's 100% acetone, nail polish remover has SOME acetone in it, but usually not alot. Just go and buy pure acetone or paint thinner. It makes so much more of a difference, and it's cheap for the amount you get.
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Unread 02-14-2013, 03:20 AM   #9
verdatum
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Paint thinner is actually somewhat nonspecific. To be sure what you have, you gotta look up the MSDS for the code on that back. Sometimes acetone is sold under the label of paint thinner. But AshofRebirth is right, nail polish is usually a mixture of acetone, water, glycerin, fragrance, and some other random chemicals. At least in the US, the ingredient list should be right there on the label (if I'm not mistaken).
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Unread 02-18-2013, 09:40 AM   #10
Ryutso
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Paint thinner is actually somewhat nonspecific. To be sure what you have, you gotta look up the MSDS for the code on that back. Sometimes acetone is sold under the label of paint thinner. But AshofRebirth is right, nail polish is usually a mixture of acetone, water, glycerin, fragrance, and some other random chemicals. At least in the US, the ingredient list should be right there on the label (if I'm not mistaken).
So a light rubbing of paint thinner, then primer and Krylon Fusion? Or is the primer not needed?
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Unread 02-18-2013, 01:55 PM   #11
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Don't use primer. The Krylon fusion actually fuses to the plastic. If primer is in the way, this cannot happen. You can also use the Krylon fusion as a primer, and paint normal spraypaint overtop, if the fusion line doesn't have your desired color.
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Unread 02-21-2013, 06:08 AM   #12
Ryutso
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Don't use primer. The Krylon fusion actually fuses to the plastic. If primer is in the way, this cannot happen. You can also use the Krylon fusion as a primer, and paint normal spraypaint overtop, if the fusion line doesn't have your desired color.
So I started wiping the axe with some acetone and apparently, the yellow, gray and white parts are just the color of the foam, but the black parts are all paint.

Do I need to completely remove the black paint before I re-paint it?

I might lightly sand the gray and yellow parts before I paint.
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Unread 02-21-2013, 09:25 AM   #13
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Only consider removing the black paint if you intend to paint it a completely contrasting color (namely, white). The purpose of the solvent is to remove dirt and various release agents, and to ever so slightly soften the surface plastic to make it more accepting of the paint.

Also, depending on your environmental conditions, the Krylon fusion paint might stay a bit tacky and fragile for a couple days longer than indicated on the bottle. If this happens, just leave it in a sunny spot, like beside a window, and avoid touching it with your fingers. When it finally does fully cure, the stuff is pretty bulletproof, you just need some patience sometimes.
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