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Unread 04-15-2013, 08:26 PM   #1
Boreotheria
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General corset and cincher questions

The corsets I own already are definitely geared towards waist size reduction. If I wear them loose they just look funny, because the boning gives them their own shape. If I wear them tight they look awesome.

So what does it look like to wear an underbust or cincher sized corset but not for cinching purposes? Would the garment have straighter boning if it was made for that purpose?

How much of the boning in a corset is flat, to guide the shape of the body, and how much is spiral, which will bend and twist more?

I may try making my first corset for one of my summer costumes. It'll be a fairly simple cincher if I do it. But will I have to decide ahead of time whether I want this to be a waist-reducing corset or just something to wear looser?
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Unread 04-15-2013, 08:43 PM   #2
twiterpert
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The only flat boning in a corset is usually on the center-front and center-back. The rest is spiral. Tightlacing corsets usually have a move drastic difference between the waist and bust/hip measurements. If you don't want to cinch, all the fabric measurements should correspond with your actual ones, as if you were making a regular fitted bodice. This does usually results in straighter seams/boning.
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Unread 04-15-2013, 08:58 PM   #3
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Aha, okay. So the front and back, which are not going to change shape much other than to make a lumpy bit flatter, have flat boning. And the spiral is on the sides so that it doesn't dig in where it's trying to tuck stuff in. Got it. Understanding that concept suddenly makes this seem a lot more do-able.

I want to add some boning channels to the buckled belt/faux-corset from this pattern, so that it won't wrinkle and so that it could hold my belly in a bit flatter, but I'm not going to go for waist size with it. I think it's meant as a men's girdle so I'll probably have to make it wider vertically.

Thanks!
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Unread 04-15-2013, 09:30 PM   #4
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If you're not actually going over the hips or bust (thus the lateral deformation is limited to one arc) you can pretty much use straight steel for everything.

But I think you're saying you DON'T want to tightlace with this, that it's just a costume piece ?

In that case, I would ditch steel entirely - just use heavy duty cable ties or reed or something The shaping come from the seams, anyway - not from the type of steel in the channels - the steel is just there to make sure the fabric holds its shape instead of deforming.

And yes, to the question at the end, you can't really make a corset that can be worn both ways unless it's a really generic and symmetrical shape - which won't be comfortable for actual tightlacing. A corset for much waist reduction needs to be shaped to the body instead of just being a tube with flares on the ends. Does that make sense ? In the one that is shape, if you were to let it be looser or tighter it would deform from the ideal shape it was created to attain and smoosh you weirdly or have extra fabric wrinkling when it's displaced from where it ideally would be in relation to the body.
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Unread 04-15-2013, 09:57 PM   #5
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Yeah, I don't think I want to tightlace, I just want to wear it as a big belt thing and not have it crumple.

And your answer does make sense, thank you!

Maybe I'll experiment and try it both ways, to see what ends up looking better. The straight cut one with plastic boning will be the practice piece. Which one I'll end up wearing depends on how much I bike and how much tummy I have left in July.
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Unread 04-16-2013, 07:49 PM   #6
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I also know someone who made one completely without boning and just used a stiff interfacing, Personally I would have also used featherlite boning, but if you're in a stitch and have a bumload of superstiff interfacing on hand, you could also use that instead of traditional boning.
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Unread 04-17-2013, 12:20 PM   #7
Boreotheria
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I think what I'll do is get some Rigilene to keep it from crumpling too badly, and also maybe some coutil so that the whole thing doesn't stretch while I'm wearing it.
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