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Unread 02-08-2014, 08:22 AM   #1
Irarenovo
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custom corset, random questions

sooo take 2 of making my own corset

I made a pattern by taping up my mid section [underbust corset], which worked well last time. Still on the patterning stage.

right now theres a back seam [lacing] back side seam, side seam, side front[one of my fashion corsets has a bone here so I thought id copy it], another side front where princess seams would go, and a front middle, which would usually be eyelet tape.

I was considering leaving out a front closure, should I eliminate the seam to make a flat panel, or put a piece of boning in? I'm pretty much apple shaped and trying to cut down on that as much as I can, I'm not sure which would give me better shaping.


Second question is.... on both my fashion corset, and the one I made last time, the boning likes to try to work its way out of the casing. I think this is partly from lacing the corset tightly [dont worry, no passing out issues] but is there a way to help this out? Would adding more bones help? Use longer casing, or shorter bones? or just use stronger casing so it cant poke out?
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Unread 02-08-2014, 08:58 AM   #2
lemuries
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I rarely have a problem with my steel boning digging its way out of my bias tape casings, but I make sure to fold over about 3/4" of bias tape so it forms a pocket. Some people have been known to put an extra layer of plastidip on the end of their steel boning to help blunt the knife edge of it. Spiral steel boning has such a great cap on it that I doubt it should ever cut through. I have no experience with plastic boning.

I would leave the seam in the middle and put boning in, but I like a flat front (too much renn faire I guess). I really like putting busk openings in my victorian corsets, though. Being able to loosen the back an inch and then pop out of the corset has really benefited me in the past.
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Unread 02-08-2014, 09:02 AM   #3
Irarenovo
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oh I have the spiral steel boning. my corset last year put small bruises at the top of every bone, and the fabric had worn down some at the top, maybe that fabric just didnt do the job
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Unread 02-08-2014, 09:07 AM   #4
Irarenovo
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oh, and I wasnt sure if making a wider band at the top/bottom and putting in some interfacing or boning horizontally would help? maybe that would keep it in place more when I need to sit
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Unread 02-08-2014, 12:16 PM   #5
lemuries
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What do you make your casings out of? I have a purchased corset where the casings seem to be made of a kind of twill tape and I had a blowout on one of those. I can only imagine interfacing your casing ends would help too.

I admit that I haven't run into a case of boning causing bruising of any kind. Usually I lace tight enough to leave red, compressed skin where all my seams are, but not actual damage. Then again, I tend to use steel and not spring steel, so the silhouette is much thinner.

Hopefully Penlowe will weigh in with awesome advice based on experience, like always
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Unread 02-08-2014, 01:16 PM   #6
Irarenovo
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yeah the first one wasnt even a real corset, just a tighter fitting undergarment, it had a zipper closure, im assuming the bruising occurred when I was forced to sit for a couple of hours in a crowded area.. so it pushed up too much for too long :\

the casings i had before were random scrap fabric, I have heavy duty duck cloth this time, so I figure I'll make both corset and casings from it, and maybe a thin lining layer
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Unread 02-09-2014, 12:03 PM   #7
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gah! lost my post

I looked at your pictures. I wouldn't call you apple shaped so much as just square.

Many people do not realize that the skin beneath the breasts is just as thin and fragile as the breast itself, that's why you bruised in the too-thin-fabriced corset. This go 'round with better fabrics should prevent that. I have stuffed single cotton balls into the channels of commercially made corsets to pad them without ruining the outer appearance.

A well fitted, well made corset should not allow you to slouch. Both in the fabrics chosen and the construction method.

Where the corset sits on your shape makes a difference. It's top and bottom edges can be placed to make you look twenty pounds lighter or twenty pounds heavier depending on where they sit.

In your case, I think what you want (please correct me if I am reading this wrong) is to create a waist visually. Easy! Do not make the corset a shape different from yours, shape it to you. Don't stop the bottom edge at your natural waist or at your bending zone, these factors will create a heavy look. You want to carry that lower line down toward your hips to create an illusion of flare (A pear shape wants their ending line to be halfway between their narrowest point and their widest point on the hip line. A perfect hourglass shape wants that line at their narrowest point). You can angle your seams in toward the center, even just put surface decoration on, and create a tiny waist without torturing yourself.
Look at this dress: https://scontent-a-iad.xx.fbcdn.net/...68969675_n.jpg
See how the detail lines on the front make the waist look tiny? but there is NO WAIST to this dress! It hangs from the shoulders barely hugging the form, it's almost straight up and down! You can do that (okay maybe not with ten pounds of glass beads, but you get the idea).
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