Go Back   Cosplay.com > Cosplay Construction > Props/Accessories/Armor

Reply
Thread Tools Rate Thread
Unread 04-01-2014, 03:51 PM   #1
Angelic-Terror
♡As The Curtains Cl
 
Angelic-Terror's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Posts: 39
FOAM SEALING HELP please!!

Hello!


I am having a nightmare of a time trying to figure out what seals pink panther rigid foam.
This stuff here:
http://www.foamular.com/uploadedImag...oamular250.jpg

Does anyone know how to seal this? My Cosplay is completely finished but the props and I only have 3 months! *Sobbs*

People told me PlastiDip, So I got a can of the gloss Plastidip and it doesn't seal it.
I put Krylon spray paint over it and it bubbled and basic house paint is still soaked in the paint and left foam streaks. I'm wondering if the gloss is different from paint? Unless you have to do lots of layers of it? I only did two.

What I got:
http://www.dipsource.com/media/catal..._plastidip.png

I did find a wall primer in spray can form that does work, It only slightly bubbles it... and will accept any form of latex paint over it. It did however leave a bit of a texture/ bubbled lightly. Not too noticeable would be amazing for weapons! but i need a smooth finish.


Anyhow, PLEASE HELP ME! Foam masters of cosplay <3 Haha I would be really grateful. I'm looking for anything BUT Bondo. With my weather there is no way it would cure.

Thanks for reading <3
Angelic-Terror is offline   Reply With Quote
 
Unread 04-01-2014, 03:59 PM   #2
ShinobiXikyu
Embroidery Enthusiast
 
ShinobiXikyu's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2008
Posts: 13,000
Gesso seals it (with several layers), but it won't add any strength. I've also heard good things about watered-down wood glue, or the method used with craft foam of thin cloth and watered-down wood or school glue to make something like a paper-mache overtop.
__________________
Quote:
Originally Posted by Moofingham View Post
There is a vibe here that says "We're in this together! Through thick and thin fabric! Through cold water washes and burning hot irons! Though we might super glue ourselves to our projects, cut holes/gashes/oh-god-mom's-gonna-kill-me into the dining room table, we will stand strong together. Unless there is a 75% off sale at the Fabric store. Then you're on your own. And get the hell out of my way." <3
Help me get rid of my parasprite swarm! --> http://tinyurl.com/brcp53c
ShinobiXikyu is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 04-01-2014, 04:42 PM   #3
JasonTerror
Jei-Cos
 
JasonTerror's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Posts: 9,010
Yea gesso is what I use..But no strength whatsoever. I did happen to use Polyurethane resin and it worked pretty well. It wasn't super strong, but I only used 2 coats and it was that pre mixed stuff. It worked for the strength I needed though. It isn't gonna snap in half by a small hit on a wall or knocking into a head, but it also won't hurt anyone around me on accident. The people that mentioned using resin told me that using a resin that will greatly harden it, is not safe and can really hurt someone by mistake. Of course, this is granted you want more strength than the foam already has.

Plastidip is kinda crap..I have that same spray..It literally did absolutely nothing that the gesso doesn't already do..And the gesso is thicker..I used that plastidip on just the foam, and it was still just as weak and I also used fiberglass tape with the dip layed on thick and it still did nothing. I say just go with gesso for plain sealing and resin for a nice smooth coat that's a little tougher, but needs no sanding
__________________
こんにちは、私の名前はジェイミーです
バイバイ、人形!!
Cosplay DA Regular DA
Tumblr
Commissions Here
Kumoricon 2014 (so far):
-Sora (Kingdom Hearts 2)
-Alice (Hearts no Kuni no Alice)
-Black&Blue Loli-style Dark Magical Girl O.C.
-Akaito (Vocaloid. Black & Red Ver.)


Dream cosplays for now:
-Tsuruya-san (Haruhi Suzumiya)
-Kagami Hiiragi (Lucky Star)
JasonTerror is online now   Reply With Quote
Unread 04-01-2014, 10:43 PM   #4
Angelic-Terror
♡As The Curtains Cl
 
Angelic-Terror's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Posts: 39
Hello again,


Thanks for the input you two!

Is rigid foam really that breakable? Should be worried about making it more tough? I'm not gonna be beating people with my wings or sword lol! I tried to break a piece off last night and had to get a knife.

Do you have experience with it breaking? *Worried face*


The guy told me with PlastiDip you can't use the glosses it has to be the "Paint" so I picked some up to do tests on regardless. See the gloss for me didn't even seal it period... it was terrible but I just noticed it says its for going over plastidip painted items.

Polyurethane resin is that pricey? where can I get that?

I'm doing Nepgears wings from Neptunia and her sword so my props are ridiculously large. I'm trying to go by the cheapest way to seal this. Gesso is pricey down here so I don't know if resin is cheaper or can get more in.

Thanks again !
Angelic-Terror is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 04-01-2014, 11:21 PM   #5
Chipface
Master Ninja
 
Chipface's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2007
Posts: 1,621
I don't smack my props around either but I do want them to be able to survive the trip to the con, and any potential accidents no matter how minor(it's guaranteed your prop will hit something). If I use insulation foam I usually cover it in fibreglass or worbla. When I was working on this sword, the tip actually broke off before I even started sealing it to fibreglass.

If you're going to fibreglass, you'll need to seal the foam with something first. I've heard masking tape works. Also, check Princess Auto for supplies if you go down that route. I've noticed their prices are better than Canadian Tire's.

Last edited by Chipface : 04-01-2014 at 11:25 PM.
Chipface is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 04-01-2014, 11:24 PM   #6
ShinobiXikyu
Embroidery Enthusiast
 
ShinobiXikyu's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2008
Posts: 13,000
I made my Vexen shield out of foam- http://www.cosplay.com/photo/2038690/
I only ended up sealing it with gesso, unfortunately, and I broke three spike tips (two were my own stupidity, I tried to take it through a door without turning it and was running....), and was able to put a good-sized score in it with a moderately hard finger tap with a bit of nail. You'll definitely want more protection than that if you want the prop to last (and considering all the time you put in on carving and sanding and painting...).
__________________
Quote:
Originally Posted by Moofingham View Post
There is a vibe here that says "We're in this together! Through thick and thin fabric! Through cold water washes and burning hot irons! Though we might super glue ourselves to our projects, cut holes/gashes/oh-god-mom's-gonna-kill-me into the dining room table, we will stand strong together. Unless there is a 75% off sale at the Fabric store. Then you're on your own. And get the hell out of my way." <3
Help me get rid of my parasprite swarm! --> http://tinyurl.com/brcp53c
ShinobiXikyu is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 04-03-2014, 01:05 AM   #7
Angelic-Terror
♡As The Curtains Cl
 
Angelic-Terror's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Posts: 39
I'm not trying to be rude by any means p.s!
I just never have done the paint method and am new to it all ^^
I normally place latex fabric over the foam for my mecha type cosplays and it holds up but the fabric wouldn't show dents or break due to it going on the foam.

Chipface, Is fiberglass cheap? The props I'm making are the size of half a queen's bed (Rather large) and I know worbla I can't even track down in this tiny town :c
Beautiful sword though!

ShinobiXikyu, Amazing shield! I'm impressed by the paint job o___o" wow!
How may coats did you do in gesso? I'm sad because down here it's 69$ a bottle but I'm thinking maybe that... then fiber glass or plastidip.

Thanks again so much for giving me advice and feedback! It's great to see what people have used and con stories about how the prop held up!!
Angelic-Terror is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 04-03-2014, 01:10 AM   #8
JasonTerror
Jei-Cos
 
JasonTerror's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Posts: 9,010
WEll I'm not gonna reply about the stuff the last 2 members said, but I DO know it's like using only gesso, much like shinobi said. When you have something with a base that is thinner than the rest, it will break. REgardess. You have to make it separate with a structure inwise it to stop that regardless what you use. Even fiberglass on that shield could break. Not as easily, but it could..I have 2 swords right now made of it and one scythe..One of my swords has dents crushed into it a little..I never once had it where something heavy ever fell on it..So that says a lot
__________________
こんにちは、私の名前はジェイミーです
バイバイ、人形!!
Cosplay DA Regular DA
Tumblr
Commissions Here
Kumoricon 2014 (so far):
-Sora (Kingdom Hearts 2)
-Alice (Hearts no Kuni no Alice)
-Black&Blue Loli-style Dark Magical Girl O.C.
-Akaito (Vocaloid. Black & Red Ver.)


Dream cosplays for now:
-Tsuruya-san (Haruhi Suzumiya)
-Kagami Hiiragi (Lucky Star)
JasonTerror is online now   Reply With Quote
Unread 04-03-2014, 05:02 PM   #9
verdatum
Extremely registered user
 
verdatum's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Posts: 3,395
Gesso should not be $69 a bottle. It's pretty much just white glue with powdered chalk mixed in.

House paint really should work fine for sealing foam. Perhaps you weren't using an appropriate brush. You may find you have better luck applying it with a paint roller.

As far as polyurethane resin, there is a product specifically formulated to be brushed onto foam. You pretty much have to order it online, and it isn't super cheap, but it isn't the most expensive thing either. I can't get enough of the stuff, it's one of my favorite things to work with: http://www.smooth-on.com/Shell-Shock...tml?catdepth=1

Fiberglassing uses the same chemicals as are in Bondo. If the weather is not appropriate for Bondo, then it won't be right for fiberglass resin (polyester resin) either. Fiberglass+resin tends to be overkill for props unless you really plan to beat the crap out of the thing. To fiberglass something the size of half a queen sized bed, expect to pay around $100-$150 just for the fiberglass and resin. If you do fiberglassing, it is critical that you first practice the whole process on a smaller scrap of random foam. When you screw up fiberglassing, it can take a whole lot of work to fix it.

One good way to go is to coat it with paper mache. It actually does add strength to the piece, and if you take the time to smooth the surface after applying the paper mache, you can eventually get your surfaces as smooth as glass. For the most strength you use very heavy paper for the lowest layers, then like grocery bag paper, then newsprint, and optionally finish with tissue paper, laid on dry to the wet surface, pressed down with a roller, and then brushed with glue lightly in any remaining dry spots. When dry, you blend up a paper mache slurry or mix paperclay & water and brush that on thick. when dry carefully sand smooth, repeating the process as needed. When smooth you prime and paint.
__________________
Founder Special FX wiki http://fx.wikia.com
verdatum is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 04-04-2014, 07:36 PM   #10
Star Schnauzer
Registered User
 
Star Schnauzer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Posts: 87
I have used wood glue and lots of it.
Star Schnauzer is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 04-05-2014, 01:30 PM   #11
nathancarter
Victor Voyeur Photography
 
nathancarter's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Posts: 1,044
House paint is working just fine for me; I'm in the middle of a project right now and applying with a roller.

It's thick and will cover minor imperfections - or obscure fine detail. It may also leave a texture, if you roll it on with a roller. Don't think it'll sand very well, as it's slightly flexible. It won't add any strength.

A prop made of nothing but paint and foam will not survive a con intact. A photoshoot, maybe. For a long thin item like a sword or long horns, you'll need an internal reinforcement of wood, metal, plastic, or MDF; and for almost all items you'll also need an external reinforcement to protect from chips and dings.

As always, Verdatum has given great advice above.
__________________

http://flickr.com/nathancarter
https://www.facebook.com/VictorVoyeur
MetroCon - CONjure - Dragon Con - MegaCon
nathancarter is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 04-09-2014, 12:38 PM   #12
DarkMatterGunda
Registered User
 
Join Date: Apr 2014
Posts: 7
Small 2 cents- if you use plastidip you probably should have went with one of the colored ones like black or white because the gloss is the coat that is put on after those are coated on. The colored ones are the actual rubber solvent and the gloss is well similar to any other finisher i guess, but meant for things like tools. if someone else had posted this already i apologize for re-posting and disregard this. i also hope that you are successful in what ever cosplay this may be
DarkMatterGunda is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 04-17-2014, 11:04 AM   #13
Angelic-Terror
♡As The Curtains Cl
 
Angelic-Terror's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Posts: 39
Thank you to everyone who had posted! I have sealed the foam with kills and am deciding to either fiberglass or papermache to make it a tad more strong!

Thanks for all the inputs. It's been reallt helpful ^^
Angelic-Terror is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 04-17-2014, 11:07 AM   #14
Angelic-Terror
♡As The Curtains Cl
 
Angelic-Terror's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Posts: 39
Quote:
Originally Posted by verdatum View Post
Gesso should not be $69 a bottle. It's pretty much just white glue with powdered chalk mixed in.

House paint really should work fine for sealing foam. Perhaps you weren't using an appropriate brush. You may find you have better luck applying it with a paint roller.

As far as polyurethane resin, there is a product specifically formulated to be brushed onto foam. You pretty much have to order it online, and it isn't super cheap, but it isn't the most expensive thing either. I can't get enough of the stuff, it's one of my favorite things to work with: http://www.smooth-on.com/Shell-Shock...tml?catdepth=1

Fiberglassing uses the same chemicals as are in Bondo. If the weather is not appropriate for Bondo, then it won't be right for fiberglass resin (polyester resin) either. Fiberglass+resin tends to be overkill for props unless you really plan to beat the crap out of the thing. To fiberglass something the size of half a queen sized bed, expect to pay around $100-$150 just for the fiberglass and resin. If you do fiberglassing, it is critical that you first practice the whole process on a smaller scrap of random foam. When you screw up fiberglassing, it can take a whole lot of work to fix it.

One good way to go is to coat it with paper mache. It actually does add strength to the piece, and if you take the time to smooth the surface after applying the paper mache, you can eventually get your surfaces as smooth as glass. For the most strength you use very heavy paper for the lowest layers, then like grocery bag paper, then newsprint, and optionally finish with tissue paper, laid on dry to the wet surface, pressed down with a roller, and then brushed with glue lightly in any remaining dry spots. When dry, you blend up a paper mache slurry or mix paperclay & water and brush that on thick. when dry carefully sand smooth, repeating the process as needed. When smooth you prime and paint.
Future reference though. Shellshock does that act as a sealing/hardening agent? It's not to bad in price. Not cost effective for a mecha cosplay though >.> which is what I'm doing! I would love to test this stuff out though! My FX teacher told me about this when in school.
Angelic-Terror is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 04-17-2014, 12:19 PM   #15
CHIBI-Chii
Registered User
 
CHIBI-Chii's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Posts: 66
Cool I'm learning also! Also a refresher!
__________________
Working on Currently Dark Phoenix 65%
Working on Black Canary 50%
For NYCC 2011
I Believe in the Power of God to use my Imagination for His Glory.
CHIBI-Chii is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools
Rate This Thread
Rate This Thread:

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

vB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Forum Jump


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 09:23 PM.


Copyright 2002-2013 Cosplay.com, LLC. All Rights Reserved.
All comments and posts in our forums are the opinion of the respective poster.