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Unread 06-08-2017, 06:56 AM   #1
Kahluah
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Pattern and Painting help (2B Nier Automata)

So, my friend had the brilliant idea of deciding we should cosplay 2B and the opera boss from Nier, I think i pretty much got how im going to handle the opera boss but im having some trouble figuring out things on 2B.

Here is the ref photo:



First the pattern. It seems that in the game the outfit is a skirt and a bodice 2 piece and not a dress, so im wondering if I should keep it that way or if a dress approach would be easier. (and if anyone has any pattern recommendations that would be appreciated.)

I'm leaning towards keeping it two pieces due to the seams, which brings me to my next question about zippers.

The skirt would have an invisible zipper at the side seam where the slit is, seems like the most obvious choice.

But the top, because of the cutout and mesh design i dont think i have enough room to make a back zipper that would fit my head through the collar, so since there are seams along the side i was wondering if another side zipper would be in order.

The other question I have is in regards to the pattern along the bottom of the skirt. After rendering the dress seems to be made out of a velvet material, so I will probably use that, I'm wondering whats the best way to get that design on there without pulling all my hair out.

I would love to be able to use a stencil since I already have the template for the design, but my reservations come in when I look at how many times I would need to repeat the pattern and keep it even.

I also dont know what would be the best stencil method for a velvet fabric. Most of the tutorials I see involve spray adhesive and fabric spray paint of some sort but I dont know how the fabric will react to these.
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Unread 06-08-2017, 09:26 AM   #2
Penlowe
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You are WAY over thinking this.

1. fabric
no, not velvet. First it looks nothing like it in that image, it looks leathery or maybe a wet look something. Second velvet is too heavy to stand like that.
Third, painting velvet is an exercise in insanity with the design details specific to this costume. If you must use velvet the only reasonable way to add that detail is sew it, either a satin stitch with a machine or couching a silver cord (machine or by hand).
https://www.needlenthread.com/2006/1...-tutorial.html

2. closures
Center back zip from below the back opening down and hooks & eyes on the collar portion. I kinda see your thought process on the side zip over the slit but this is a very bad idea. That slit needs structure a zipper cannot give and it almost guarantees the zipper will show.

3. pattern/ structure
Not separate garments, it's a dress with an empire waistband is all. Just because two pattern pieces come together at a point does not mean they are separate garments. Trying to wear an empire waisted skirt is not logical or practical, empire waists only exist on dresses IRL.
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Unread 06-08-2017, 12:15 PM   #3
lunaflora
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The dress actually is separate in the game.
Yaya Han's M7373 McCall's pattern seems to be pretty darn close to what you would be looking for.
I would use a pleather, a thin one that is relatively drapey, and organza for the sheer details.
In the bodice, I would simply trace off the pattern down to the waist or a few inches lower to where the waist starts. Then draft the style lines from there. Be sure to add a waist tape. For the sheer details, I would use black organza. Trace the design onto the pleather pattern piece, layer the pleather ontop of the organza, and the stitch outside along the pattern your traced, and then simply cut away the pleather within your traced line making sure not to cut the organza layer, trim the excess organza if needed and maybe apply fraycheck for good measure and Voila!

For the skirt, I would use horsehair braid on the edges, or even try to find a very full bodied interfacing to the whole skirt to achieve the beautiful structure of the skirt. separate the pattern where you think the top edge of the skirt should be.

The silver design at the hem, I would suggest doing it with a stencil as well. It's the quickest way.

As for the closure, for the skirt. You can just choose the other side seam of the pattern. The bodice closure would be a bit more complicated if you wanted it to be undetectable. Not sure you would want to do it because it's an extensive amount of work, but here:

Last edited by lunaflora : 06-08-2017 at 12:34 PM.
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Unread 06-08-2017, 06:59 PM   #4
Penlowe
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Quote:
The dress actually is separate in the game.
Which is in no way bound by the conventions of reality, real world physics, or logic. I know how bad game designers can get, they do not design for the real world, ever. If you want to wear it in real life you are forced to conform to the laws of physics.
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Unread 06-08-2017, 07:55 PM   #5
Kahluah
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Penlowe View Post
You are WAY over thinking this.

1. fabric
no, not velvet. First it looks nothing like it in that image, it looks leathery or maybe a wet look something. Second velvet is too heavy to stand like that.
Third, painting velvet is an exercise in insanity with the design details specific to this costume. If you must use velvet the only reasonable way to add that detail is sew it, either a satin stitch with a machine or couching a silver cord (machine or by hand).
https://www.needlenthread.com/2006/1...-tutorial.html

Like I said, this is the pre-rendered turnaround, it is easiest to see the details with and decide what to do, but in game only the boots and mask elements still look like a pleather material. Velvet was just the first fabric that came to my mind with the actual dress texture, and the dress appears to have the right weight for this material in actual gameplay footage as it hangs and doesnt fan out behind like the image.

I didnt think about sewing it though, that is probably a great idea! I could definitely think of a way to handle it like that, thank you.





As for the pattern, I'm not against having to merge multiple ones together. Like with my overcomplicated thinking i probably could make it two pieces, but i also thought that trying for the dress would be easiest. So I will check out empire waist patterns.

I will probably just have to pattern hunt through a book, but I will keep that yaya pattern in mind for the bodice section! There is white stitching details that follow the seams, so I wanted something rather close. And I have read of other people using the horsehair braid in the skirt section.
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Unread 06-08-2017, 11:34 PM   #6
lunaflora
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Quote:
Which is in no way bound by the conventions of reality, real world physics, or logic. I know how bad game designers can get, they do not design for the real world, ever. If you want to wear it in real life you are forced to conform to the laws of physics.
I fail to see how this is impossible within our laws of physics to make and wear this costume in two pieces. By that logic, underbust corsets are impossible as well, as are leotards, strapless dresses. Wearing a skirted underbust corset over a cutout top is also impossible.

Also for the fabric, I just looked at the in-game version. I would suggest using Velveteen, if you can find it. It's like velvet, but made of cotton, so the sheen is softer.

Last edited by lunaflora : 06-08-2017 at 11:45 PM.
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Unread 06-09-2017, 02:51 AM   #7
Kahluah
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lunaflora View Post
I fail to see how this is impossible within our laws of physics to make and wear this costume in two pieces.
I mean, there is also the fact that an empire dress is basically a empire skirt sewed together with a bodice, but i digress from that.

But even if it was impossible I could think of a way. I mean I got this epoxy and fiberglass waist strap brace thing for a set of 9 tails i have, for most people this would be a super impractical build since you cant bend over with it on, but my spine was fused when i was 5 and i cant bend over, so instead of trying to figure out another rig I went the simple route all I really had to do was figure out a correct design that balanced the weight against my stomach on on the small of my back against my butt for good weight distribution.

I have two fabric places by me and i know one has at least black velvet and velveteen there, but i will probably check out the other one too to compare prices and to see if one has coupons or sales.
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Unread 06-09-2017, 10:00 AM   #8
lunaflora
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if doing this in two pieces, I would add boning to the skirt from the top edge of the underbust down to the waist or high hip (or however much below the waist before it prevents you from sitting down comfortably). Then, tack a waist tape just where the bones are around the waist. This tape should be the same measurement, or even a half inch less than your waist measurement. The bones and waist tape serve 2 purposes: they will keep the skirt up and have all the weight of the skirt be supported and distributed at the waist, and they will support the fabric so that it is smooth on the body.
Doing it this way, you don't need to wear your waist brace, unless it is necessary for your well being. If you do wear the brace underneath the skirt, then I would still use the bones and waist tape, as while the brace supports you, there is nothing supporting the skirt itself, so I suggest you add those in. It's not absolutely necessary, but I think it would look much nicer if done.
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Unread 07-14-2017, 07:42 PM   #9
Annissė
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I am currently building this costume myself. Check out my Instagram feed and my Twitch feed to see my videos. I have the pattern all figured out and ready to go, my skirt is half done. I added gores and horsehair braid to give her skirt that added POP you see.

I am now stuck on the skirt artwork. I want to get it embroidered but to do this will costs hundreds of dollars. It's either that or get it laser cut and attach it to the skirt. Those are the only two methods I can think of to get it on the skirt and look absolutely clean. Someone suggested to me to heat transfer that pattern on. Great idea but I am using velour NOT velvet fabric. This type of material is not heavy weight and looks perfect for the 2B costume look.

I am now stuck moving ahead with this cosplay until I can work out how I am going to get that artwork on that skirt cuz stenciling it on there and doing it freehand is not an option. It will not look clean, stenciling can bleed on the sides.

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Unread 07-15-2017, 07:32 AM   #10
Penlowe
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soutache braid or satin stitch, both of which I mentioned above.
http://www.alamy.com/stock-photo-mex...124230005.html
As you can see, soutache braid can be sewn into elaborate curves and details. It requires a special foot that feeds it directly under the needle for machine application.
http://www.stitchemup.com/tips/perfect-satin-stitch.htm
for satin stitch, it does NOT require a programmable machine, only patience and the ability to follow your drawn lines accurately. You can draw those lines with a fabric marking pencil and use a regular machine.
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