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Unread 08-16-2008, 10:48 AM   #151
InkRaven
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I had a question about support in insulation foam props:
Would it be possible to shove a slightly thin dowel in the prop before I completely carve it? (ie while it's basically a 'cut out' of the foam with smoothed planes etc). I don't want to fight with my prop keyblades but I've heard that Oathkeeper and Oblivion can get especially flimsy in some places where the parts are thin.
If I can't shove the dowel in there, does that mean I should sandwich it between two 1" boards? I think that might end up working more effectively.
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Unread 08-18-2008, 04:24 PM   #152
benihime
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Quote:
Originally Posted by InkRaven View Post
I had a question about support in insulation foam props:
Would it be possible to shove a slightly thin dowel in the prop before I completely carve it? (ie while it's basically a 'cut out' of the foam with smoothed planes etc). I don't want to fight with my prop keyblades but I've heard that Oathkeeper and Oblivion can get especially flimsy in some places where the parts are thin.
If I can't shove the dowel in there, does that mean I should sandwich it between two 1" boards? I think that might end up working more effectively.
you should be able to, just don't shove it too hard, it'll break the foam
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Unread 08-19-2008, 06:55 PM   #153
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lol i like your description of a scrollsaw
Scrollsaw-This is a scrollsaw. thanks for the tutorial i just bought a sheet today
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Unread 08-19-2008, 11:43 PM   #154
InkRaven
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Quote:
Originally Posted by benihime View Post
you should be able to, just don't shove it too hard, it'll break the foam
Cool, thanks for the info, I didn't want to end up cutting out my prop and then breaking it D:
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Unread 08-20-2008, 01:04 PM   #155
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I'm learning a lot about the properties of foam as I continue to work with it.

With a little practice, cutting straight lines is a breeze. Using one of those snap-off, extendo-knives, make multiple passes until the foam is severed. This method also reduces ripping due to excessive force.

Curved lines? Well, I don't know how easy those are. I never made any! Cut the corners off a square, and it becomes an octagon. Cut the corners off an octagon, and you get a hexadecagon (16 sides). The more corners you cut off, the closer it gets to be to a circle.

Using this method to trim the foam to a rough shape, it becomes easy to simply sand the foam into a smooth curve. If that makes any sense at all.
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Unread 08-23-2008, 09:03 PM   #156
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I have finally found pink insulation foam in the hardware stores. Problem was, I forgot to bring a utility knife. ~_~ They don't allow employees to cut the insulation foam over at the lumber area, and want you to cut it yourself, xD.
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Unread 08-27-2008, 12:42 AM   #157
Beryl
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Seraphy View Post
I have finally found pink insulation foam in the hardware stores. Problem was, I forgot to bring a utility knife. ~_~ They don't allow employees to cut the insulation foam over at the lumber area, and want you to cut it yourself, xD.
I've had to snap insulation foam in half in the parking lot before. If it's thin enough, you may be able to score it with a key. On the thicker stuff, though, I had to run back inside and buy a knife, heh.
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Unread 08-28-2008, 02:49 PM   #158
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Hello everyone!

I am going to be doing an update on my pink foam stuff something in the very near future.

I believe I have found a product that you can use on foam that -will not- dissolve it, yet dries very hard as to protect the foam. I am doing tests on it this week to see if its a GO or not. ^_^
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Unread 09-04-2008, 02:17 PM   #159
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jantra View Post
I believe I have found a product that you can use on foam that -will not- dissolve it, yet dries very hard as to protect the foam. I am doing tests on it this week to see if its a GO or not. ^_^
Just to let you know, KILZ brand spray-primer will NOT eat insulation foam. You can usually find this stuff in hardware stores like ACE and Home Depot. It only comes in white, and sprays very thick, so you have to be careful when painting not to make any runs.

It can be sanded easily, which is good because its finished dried surface is pretty rough. Its intended for home use, so it won't eat spackle if you've been using that to fill in cracks on your piece.

Here's a shot of the KILZ on a Hylian Shield I recently finished:
http://www.cosplay.com/photo/1683795/
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Unread 09-05-2008, 04:19 AM   #160
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Not sure if this has been covered, but a good friend of mine told me about using joint compound over foam.(comes in big buckets, usually used to attach things like flooring and drywall) I've tried it myself and it dries very hard and sands super easy. It doesn't eat the foam at all. She also use plaster wrap to strengthen and it worked awesome for her ABA key, but I have not tried it myself.
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Unread 10-03-2008, 04:39 PM   #161
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Javakat View Post
Not sure if this has been covered, but a good friend of mine told me about using joint compound over foam.(comes in big buckets, usually used to attach things like flooring and drywall) I've tried it myself and it dries very hard and sands super easy.
I wonder how much stronger that makes the foam. I need to get the foam as strong as possible, since It's the base for a large cannon gun. I wonder if this would suffice, or if I should go with the plexiglass or resin method...
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Unread 10-05-2008, 08:08 PM   #162
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Originally Posted by ash_chan View Post
I wonder how much stronger that makes the foam. I need to get the foam as strong as possible, since It's the base for a large cannon gun. I wonder if this would suffice, or if I should go with the plexiglass or resin method...
It does make the foam relatively strong, I can hit things with my swords well enough. (not too hard though) But plexiglass and resin are definitely going to be stronger. Joint compound is cheaper and easier is the main advantage.
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Unread 10-06-2008, 07:58 PM   #163
ash_chan
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Javakat View Post
It does make the foam relatively strong, I can hit things with my swords well enough. (not too hard though) But plexiglass and resin are definitely going to be stronger. Joint compound is cheaper and easier is the main advantage.
I know that plexiglass/Resin would be stronger, but I don't want to end up messing up; I've never worked with it. xD But I need it to be strong enough to support a long PVC pipe and not die on me at a 4 day con from me carrying it around.
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Unread 10-07-2008, 11:47 AM   #164
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I'd definitely apply something that has a fiber structure to support the foam and prevent it from breaking apart. Cheesecloth or paper maché (as in, paper strips with wallpaper paste) would do if you apply several layers.
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Unread 12-22-2008, 07:53 PM   #165
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Is the pink insulation foam, polyurethane...I was able to find polyurethane here but in a block T T
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