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Unread 10-31-2006, 08:53 AM   #31
CienDragon
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I've heard of foil being used too although how easy that is depends on prop size too. Alternatively, there are expoy based putties(aka marine putty) which can be found at places that sell boat supplies. Expoy based putties shouldn't eat through the foam(at least expoxy resin doesn't and its the polyester resin in Bondo that eats through the foam).
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Unread 10-31-2006, 09:44 AM   #32
halafax
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When I did my death hauler I used self sticking joint tape. This is after it all fell off the first time and set me back a week. You have to have something for the bondo to stick to. ALso there are two kinds of bondo, all purpose putty and body filler. The all purpose putty is a little easier to use. Though you have to work quick and clean otherwise you have alot of excess you didnt get to put in, and lumps that take forever to sand down...
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Unread 10-31-2006, 05:03 PM   #33
CienDragon
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Quote:
Originally Posted by halafax
You have to have something for the bondo to stick to.
More accurately, you have to have something that the putty won't disolve. Polyester resin, which is the main ingredient in Bondo's filler, contains liquid styrene. Liquid styrene disolves polystyrene(pink/blue foam is extruded polystyrene). There's also some other solvents in there that probably help.

Edit: Incidently Bondo makes more than two kinds of putty. There's Bondo Home Solutions All Purpose Putty(tan can), Bondo Body FIller(Red Can), Bondo Heavyweight Filler(Red Can), and Bondo Glass Reinforced Filler(blue can). I think most people who use Bondo brand use the Home Solutions one for props.
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Last edited by CienDragon : 10-31-2006 at 05:13 PM.
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Unread 11-01-2006, 10:25 AM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CienDragon
More accurately, you have to have something that the putty won't disolve.
No you have to have something for the bodo to adhere to. It wont adhere to the foam itself. I tried that. It will make the foam nice and smoothbut thats it. It heats the foam up but does not adhere to it. The self sticking joint tape workout well.

If you read the bucket for when doing bondo they tell you to get the mesh pads and put it over the hole and add... and tada all done....I used the same theory.
I know this works because one of the cats knocked the death hauler over and very little damage was caused. Mostly cosmetic...

Bondo is still a pain to use in large amounts.

But you can sick a battle ship with my death hauler.
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Unread 11-01-2006, 01:43 PM   #35
CienDragon
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I'm not really arguing that it won't adhere to the foam but the reason it won't adhere is because it's dissolving it. Of course it makes the foam nice and smooth...becaue the liquid styrene is melting it. If you heated the foam nice and evenly you'd make the foam really smooth too. The liquid styrene in Bondo is just doing that to the polystyrene chemically.


Anyway if you're going to go through the trouble of putting Bondo/filler putty all over the foam you may as well just use fiberglass. It really isn't any harder to work with and if you use Epoxy resin you won't have to worry about it melting the foam.


You should always test anything you're going to put on your foam to make sure it doesn't dissolve pink foam.
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Unread 11-18-2006, 01:18 PM   #36
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I bought some insulation to practice with. It has a thin outer-plastic wrap coating on both sides that is beginning to peel off. Should I leave this on, or is it ok to remove it?
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Unread 11-19-2006, 11:48 PM   #37
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Gorilla Glue... *Shudders*. I can only see the stuff being used if you never, ever, EVER want something to move, ever. Trust me, it took a literal week to get the stuff off my fingers. x.x Somehow I cannot believe using it to cover foam, unless you like the little bubbles that form when using it.

Then again, maybe I did something wrong? We used all sorts of foam-y stuff on a project and the glue ended up bubbling everywhere.
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Unread 11-20-2006, 10:01 AM   #38
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What were you making? how did you apply the glue?
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Unread 11-24-2006, 09:23 AM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jantra
8) Instruments to Cut With – Explained in detail below.

Ways to Cut the Foam

This is the part that taker some serious trial and error. I can only relate what I have done, and possibly will edit this part as more information comes.

4) Hot Wire Cutter – Got mine at Michael’s. This is a cheapy thing that does larger, straight cuts. A little hard on angles. I got mine for like… $12.00 with 2 D batteries. NOTE: You must work in a well ventilated area for this! The fumes are DANGEROUS.

5) Hot Knife – I have not used this yet, but I want to. I have been told these are the best when it comes to cutting foam, and can do curves and straight lines. NOTE: You must work in a well ventilated area for this! The fumes are DANGEROUS.
FWIW
This site may be of some help

http://wolfstone.halloweenhost.com/H...FoamTools.html

HTH
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Unread 01-18-2007, 08:59 PM   #40
CrimsonYoukai
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(i'll read the past pages more, but...)

Pink insualtion foam???

Pink insulation foam???


Is that seriously it?? Its like freakin cotton candy! heh, i hope thats not it really. : ( I asked the people at Lowe's and at Home Depot, that was the closest thing to Insulation Foam they showed me.

They also had this:
White Insul-foam.

It was slightly hard. It's felt like the stuff you get in boxes that cushion the TVs. I don't know if thats it. > ( Didn't look stable enough to cut.

--

I didn't see anything like that picture you showed in the first post. : (
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Unread 01-20-2007, 10:23 PM   #41
CrimsonYoukai
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As it seems, there are no Pink Insulation Foams in the Home Depot or Lowes in the Los Angeles area, cuz i CHECKED! *frowns* (And i read in another forum for building supplies, that theres none that carry it in SC)

sooooo.... like he suggested:

Quote:
I also called Foam Sales & Marketing in Burbank (thanks Tim). While they do carry the Dow "blueboard" they only have the 2x8' size and I really need a 4x8' piece for this project since the finished size of the layout will be 27"x39" and the foam is the actual structure that will support the entire layout (I didn't want to have a potentially weak seam in the sub-structure).

But I finally succeeded in finding a wholesaler in Pomona that was willing to sell me a single sheet over the counter. They carry the Owens Corning "pinkboard" (http://www.owenscorning.com/around/i...s/foamular.asp) so that is what I ended up with. The company is:

Insulation Wholesalers
832 Towne Center Dr
Pomona, CA 91767
(909) 624-6335
(source)
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Unread 01-22-2007, 06:24 PM   #42
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A suggestion for those who can't really afford spending 15 to 25 on Gesso is to just buy a few bottles of white acrylic craft paint. Its a bit more watered down than Gesso but with a couple coats you can mimic the looks you get from Gesso for about half the cost. I actually use it to water down my Gesso when its been sitting on a shelf for too long.
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Unread 01-23-2007, 12:18 PM   #43
Beryl
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sukunai Kitsune View Post
A suggestion for those who can't really afford spending 15 to 25 on Gesso is to just buy a few bottles of white acrylic craft paint. Its a bit more watered down than Gesso but with a couple coats you can mimic the looks you get from Gesso for about half the cost. I actually use it to water down my Gesso when its been sitting on a shelf for too long.
Other people use glue - wood glue and white glue seem to be popular for smoothing props.
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Unread 01-23-2007, 01:22 PM   #44
WARPAINTandUnicorns
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I found one of the companies that make a Hard coat compound used for a keyblade in the past http://www.fxsupply.com/vanillacryl/vanillacryl.html
Vanillacryl

and other types
http://www.sculpturalarts.com/

Foam Coat
http://www.fxsupply.com/materials/foamcoat.html
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Unread 01-23-2007, 01:41 PM   #45
CreativeGuy
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If you need to bend the foam here is a way you can. You strengthen the foam buy backing it with duct tape in relation to the way you are bending it. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...ucttapeffg.jpg
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