Go Back   Cosplay.com > Cosplay Construction > Sewing/Fabric Craft

Reply
Thread Tools
Unread 09-19-2017, 10:21 AM   #1
nathancarter
Victor Voyeur Photography
 
nathancarter's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Posts: 1,555
Success at DragonCon! Thanks for all the advice and help!

I'm a novice at sewing, an old man who didn't start the craft until only about a year ago.
But I dedicated myself to learning this as my new skill in 2018, and debuted some new costumes at DragonCon. And I couldn't have done it without my mentors online and in person. Thanks for all your help and advice.

Galadriel is from a commercial pattern, Simplicity 1551, with the normal amount of alterations for fit, plus a few other minor alterations because I really needed an extra yard or two of fabric, and a mild change to the sleeve to cover more upper-arm tattoos instead of draping open. She found the fabric at the Sewing Studio in Orlando, it's 2-way stretch (vertically) and the draping is pretty magical.

Elrond's outer robe (crimson) is a heavily modified Simplicity 1582, with significant modifications to the sleeves to incorporate the brocade lining and decorative turned-back cuffs, and the addition of a shawl collar. I'm still missing the decorative impressions on the sleeve upper-arms (ran out of time), and I may take in the back and side seams to eliminate some of the excess volume.

Elrond's under-robe is a pattern entirely drafted by ME! It's fully lined and overall fits very well. I'm 80% happy with it, with a few fixes still to make:
- I need to re-do the standing collar, I just couldn't get that pattern quite right. Probably revise it to be more cone-shaped and less cylinder-shaped - in theory, a cylinder-shaped collar should stand perfectly upright, but that just doesn't work here. The outer robe pushes it forward from the back, and causes it to squish open in the front. I'll probably put in a real thin flexible plastic insert to keep it really stiff and crisp; heavy interfacing just isn't doing the job.

- The closures are knot buttons, as in the original reference material, but they just don't stay closed or in place like I want them to. I didn't want a zipper - because elves don't have zippers - but I'm going to break down and add a hidden zipper.

- Still missing all the soutache embroidery, but it's mostly assembled in such a way that I can take it back apart to add embroidery then re-assemble.


The first one we got back from our hired photographer (Siffy of the Sisters Mischief, who posts her occasionally):
https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?f...type=3&theater

One from earlier in the day - here, my buttons are cooperating but you can see how the collar is not behaving at all - the outer robe has slipped forward and the weight pushes the inner robe's collar open. Thranduil by my lovely friend Vita Devoid.
https://www.facebook.com/LeoPhotogra...type=3&theater


One from the LOTR group - note that this is not my Galadriel, this is a different Galadriel who was at the group shoot. Sharing it because you can see the lining of both the outer and inner sleeves - I'm really pleased at how close I got to the reference material here.
https://www.facebook.com/HarbinHeart...type=3&theater

This one, you can see the beautiful draping of the fabric of Galadriel's dress. I wish I had another couple yards to make a ridiculous long train as shown in The Hobbit, but that would be impossible to wear around the con.
https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?f...type=3&theater


...and I'll let this one speak for itself
Well, you can see the pajama pants with the outer leaves here, though sitting doesn't really convey the shape very well.
https://www.facebook.com/AndreaGonza...type=3&theater
__________________

http://flickr.com/nathancarter
https://www.facebook.com/VictorVoyeur
MetroCon - CONjure - Dragon Con - MegaCon
nathancarter is offline   Reply With Quote
 
Unread 09-19-2017, 12:52 PM   #2
lunaflora
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jun 2017
Posts: 165
It looks gorgeous!. Thanks for sharing. All that hard work has paid off, huh?

About the problem with the collar. I don't think it's the interfacing that's the problem, it's the neckline of the cloak itself, and/or the neckline of the under-robe the pattern of the collar. You could take a dart on the upper edge of the collar the amount it needs to stand up how you want it, but I don't think that will fix the issue, it'll just improve the appearance. I think the problem is the necklines of either the under-robe, cloak, or both. It might be that you need to raise the back neckline of the under robe, and alter the collar accordingly so that the neckline and collar sits closer to the neck. For the cloak, you need to change the neckline of the cloak to be wider so it does not bite and push into the collar of the under-robe. In jackets and coats, the neckline is always a little wider than what is underneath( the coat neckline is wider than the jacket neck line, which is wider than the shirt/blouse neckline) to allow for room for the collar. If your pattern indicates where a shoulder seam would be, or where the shoulder is, you need to bring it in the amount so that it won't overlap with the neckline of the under-robe neckline, and redraw the cloak neckline. This new neckline will be wider and longer than your under robe neckline, but that is what you want. Of course, when you change the neckline of the cloak you have to also change the pattern of the cloak's collar too, if it has one. If it has a collar ( I can't really tell in the photos) you can then make the collar wider to compensate for what was taken out at the neckline.

Last edited by lunaflora : 09-19-2017 at 01:24 PM.
lunaflora is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 09-19-2017, 01:24 PM   #3
nathancarter
Victor Voyeur Photography
 
nathancarter's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Posts: 1,555
Quote:
Originally Posted by lunaflora View Post
It looks gorgeous!. Thanks for sharing. All that hard work has paid off, huh?

About the problem with the collar. I don't think it's the interfacing that's the problem, it's the neckline of the cloak itself, and/or the pattern of the collar. You could take a dart on the upper edge of the collar the amount it needs to stand up how you want it. If you like the collar of the underrobe, then I would change the cloak instead. Or you could do a combination of the two. For the cloak,you need to change the neckline of the cloak to be wider so it does not bite and push into the collar of the underrobe. In jackets and coats, the neckline is always a little wider than what is underneath( the coat neckline is wider than the jacket neck line, which is wider than the shirt/blouse neckline) to allow for room for the collar. Of course, when you change the neckline of the cloak you have to also change the pattern of the cloak's collar too, if it has one.
Thanks! It's just the pattern of the collar for the under-robe.

The problem is that - according to a reference image that I found - the back yoke and collar are all from a single cut. But that's really hard to do! After many attempts (and getting very close), I finally ran out of time, gave up and patterned the collar from a separate cut than the yoke and lapels. But that was the day before leaving for the con, so I didn't have time to make a mockup to see how it works.

When we took a rest break after lunch, I pinned in some temporary darts in the back of the collar with safety pins, and that helped a bit (and was hidden by the hair and the outer cloak).

I'll have time to re-make that part before wearing it again anyway.
__________________

http://flickr.com/nathancarter
https://www.facebook.com/VictorVoyeur
MetroCon - CONjure - Dragon Con - MegaCon
nathancarter is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 09-19-2017, 02:00 PM   #4
lunaflora
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jun 2017
Posts: 165
I'm curious about the single piece yoke-collar, could I see the reference you used?
lunaflora is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 09-19-2017, 02:29 PM   #5
nathancarter
Victor Voyeur Photography
 
nathancarter's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Posts: 1,555
Quote:
Originally Posted by lunaflora View Post
I'm curious about the single piece yoke-collar, could I see the reference you used?
This says the images came from the special features on the Fellowship of the Ring extended DVD, but I haven't looked on mine to try to find them. Scroll down about halfway. Note, this also shows a weird sleeve cap, which I wish I had never seen :O
http://www.very-faery.com/costume/elrondsalmon.htm#


Here's where another crafter managed to almost accomplish it, though it appears that she made a vertical seam on each side of the collar.:
http://www.yvettes.net/ElrondGrayConstruction.html


The other reference images that I've used in the past are all hosted on Photobucket, which recently changed their terms and I can't get to the images any more.



... you don't ever see the back of the collar in the movies, and you don't ever see it on ME once I have the wig and cloak on, so I really, really need to just quit worrying about that seam
__________________

http://flickr.com/nathancarter
https://www.facebook.com/VictorVoyeur
MetroCon - CONjure - Dragon Con - MegaCon
nathancarter is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 09-19-2017, 04:00 PM   #6
lunaflora
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jun 2017
Posts: 165
Looking at the photos of the DVD references, it's pretty certain that there is a seam on the shoulders. You can see the grainlines of the front and back pieces, both of which are parallel to the floor. If both front and back were all in one piece, it would be impossible for the grainlines to match. There are techniques to sew seams, such as applique seams, where the seams are actually a shape, follows along the lines of the embroidery and then covered by the embroidery, so then you won't be able to see them. I can't tell what photo you are looking at when you mention the sleeves, they're all so tiny! haha
lunaflora is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 09-20-2017, 08:16 AM   #7
Penlowe
Registered User
 
Penlowe's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 7,263
Well done! I love follow up posts

Quote:
- I need to re-do the standing collar, I just couldn't get that pattern quite right. Probably revise it to be more cone-shaped and less cylinder-shaped - in theory, a cylinder-shaped collar should stand perfectly upright, but that just doesn't work here.
This is because a neck isn't a straight cylinder, it's a series of concave curves interacting with convex curves of the shoulder. Thus, collars are freakin' hard. Maybe do a tape pattern of your neck and shoulders to get the perfect curve for you? A thought.

Quote:
- The closures are knot buttons, as in the original reference material, but they just don't stay closed
easy: sew the loops tighter and maybe tack them to the base fabric if they droop. Just a couple stitches in same color thread on the back/ inside of each loop should do.
__________________
Nothing is impossible, but some things are very expensive.
https://3lists.wordpress.com/ Instagram: penlowe
My Etsy shop: http://www.etsy.com/shop/penlowe I make non-fitted custom things to ship within the continental US. I only do fitted garments for those whom I can meet in person.
Penlowe is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 09-20-2017, 09:40 AM   #8
nathancarter
Victor Voyeur Photography
 
nathancarter's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Posts: 1,555
Quote:
Originally Posted by Penlowe View Post
Well done! I love follow up posts


This is because a neck isn't a straight cylinder, it's a series of concave curves interacting with convex curves of the shoulder. Thus, collars are freakin' hard. Maybe do a tape pattern of your neck and shoulders to get the perfect curve for you? A thought.
That's an idea. I can seam-rip out the existing collar, and mess around with paper and tape to get the perfect shape. while I'm wearing the robe without the collar. Then use the paper shape to make a proper pattern.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Penlowe View Post
easy: sew the loops tighter and maybe tack them to the base fabric if they droop. Just a couple stitches in same color thread on the back/ inside of each loop should do.
Thanks, I'll think about it some more and see if I can figure out how to fix what I did. It stays OK when I put it on and stand still. If I make the loops much smaller it'll be hard to get the buttons through.
__________________

http://flickr.com/nathancarter
https://www.facebook.com/VictorVoyeur
MetroCon - CONjure - Dragon Con - MegaCon
nathancarter is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 09-21-2017, 07:30 AM   #9
Penlowe
Registered User
 
Penlowe's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 7,263
Quote:
If I make the loops much smaller it'll be hard to get the buttons through.
Which is why people don't use them much, this is a standard problem with that style, it flops or it's hard to put on.
__________________
Nothing is impossible, but some things are very expensive.
https://3lists.wordpress.com/ Instagram: penlowe
My Etsy shop: http://www.etsy.com/shop/penlowe I make non-fitted custom things to ship within the continental US. I only do fitted garments for those whom I can meet in person.
Penlowe is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

vB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Forum Jump


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 06:46 AM.


Copyright 2002-2017 Cosplay.com, LLC. All Rights Reserved.
All comments and posts in our forums are the opinion of the respective poster.