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Unread 10-19-2011, 10:15 PM   #9901
Limeyaku
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rapunzel skirt, y cant u just be done? uou

I can't for the life of me figure out how to hem a bias skirt, i've researched it and i've read it and i watched videos on it and I just can NOT do it. At least, not in the way that Rapunzel's is done. So I think while I have no time to embroider the trim, I'm going to use a grosgrain ribbon as biastape and fold over on the edges. Orrrr... I can just start embroidering and then trim off the excess under the lines. @_@ I fear that will take too long before Halloween though. :s What to do what to do...
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Unread 10-19-2011, 10:45 PM   #9902
Ali
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Lime- Don't use anything for bias tape that wasn't cut on the bias. The reason the stuff is so useful is because it can stretch slightly and go around curves (like the bottom of a skirt) with ease (and an iron). If you, understandably, don't want to use the cotton bias tape from JoAnns, you can make your own using fabric you like. It'll take around two yards of fabric to cut one strip of bias tape, but only a few inches beyond that for every subsequent strip. There are bias tape makers that will iron the strips for you, or some tools to fold them correctly so you can hit them with an iron, or you can just measure and fold them yourself.
But grosgrain ribbon won't take curves easily, or really at all.

Alternatively, to hem the skirt, you can try slightly gathering the edge you're folding under. That may make it take the hem a little easier. It's not a great option if you don't have time, but I often prefer hemming things by hand, because it doesn't end up as wavy. (But then I would do everything by hand if I could, most of the time.)
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Unread 10-19-2011, 11:21 PM   #9903
LadySasha
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@LKD ~ It is irritating xD And I'm relieved to hear your costumes are just in storage. I saw on Tumblr that you said you had to throw them away. T_T

@Cait ~ Yes, not jersey. Its the heavier knit (I love it I've used it for several costumes xD)

@Seifer ~ Yeah I was thinking about that. I'm going to be dying a good portion of this costume xD
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Unread 10-19-2011, 11:34 PM   #9904
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Sasha-- I didn't use grommets on my Ariel bodice. I made it a touch big with a zipper. Then I made a narrow loop of fabric, like spaghetti straps, and cut it into 2" pieces to use as lacing loops. Ugh, I'm not explaining it well. I sewed the loops into the back seams on either side of the zipper and laced through them. It meant I had a zipper so the back is fully closed, but I could pull it as snug as I needed (which has been GREAT with my fluctuating weight!).

You can't see it in any of my Ariel pics, but I did the same sort of loops for the lacing on the sides of my Ghibli Lolita. I hope you can see what I mean from this pic http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fb...pe=1&th eater The loops are set into the seam on either side of the zipper-- not right at the zipper, but the next panel over-- so the center third of my back has laces crossing it. When you sew them in, decide where you want them, pin them to one of the panels, then baste them to the panel before you sew it to the other one. Double stitch those panels together for extra strength and they won't come out.

The real benefit to using the loops is that you make them from the same fabric (cut it straight so you don't get any stretch-- don't use bias strips for this). And you can use scraps too-- I usually make sure I'm using at least 6" sections so I get at least 3 loops per turned strip. A 2" wide strip, sewn about 1/2" wide, then trimmed to about 1/8" - 1/4" seam allowance (you need it wider if your fabric likes to fray) is about the right size. So anyway, it matches! Your lacing can be whatever you want-- a really long turned tube, grosgrain ribbon (satin would be too slippery), or basic cotton twill tape which is what I used. You can't lace it *quite* as tight as a corset with grommets, but I can still get a pretty good shape with it. It's my favourite bodice by a long shot!
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Unread 10-20-2011, 12:27 AM   #9905
AkaneSaotome
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Thanks guys! I'm so glad you like it. You guys are real disney fans so knowing you guys think its amazing, makes me happy and proud.
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Unread 10-20-2011, 12:56 AM   #9906
Limeyaku
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Ali, thanks again for the info. I'm feeling pretty much more or less defeated with this. I'm hopeless with a circle skirt. I just don't want it gathered at ALL on the inside. I hate the way it looks and I know it'll irritate me even if no one sees it. All of the hi res pictures showing the edges of her skirt have screwed up the rationality in me.

I'm now thinking of .... and I can't believe I'm saying this... just serging the bottom at a very narrow width and then when I get to the embroidery, just go over top of it. Rapunzel's hem is so flat and flowy that I don't want to actually use biastape cause it'll thicken it up and screw up the flow. =\
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Unread 10-20-2011, 01:43 AM   #9907
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Beni- Thanks. I'm using a button hole type method. Basicaly making a slit and pushing them through from the back, then glueing the little flap down. It's acctually turing out quite well and the fact that they are a little irregular gives it some great character.

Lime- Looking good. I suck at hems so, I can't help you there, but good luck.

I have five of 11 strips done on my Astrid skirt. Needless to say she will be the best dressed kid in her class this year.

Here are two angles to show you what it looks like.


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Unread 10-20-2011, 02:10 AM   #9908
Ali
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Lime - Yeah, I'm afraid the basic physics of it are such that there's just more fabric in the hem than there is where you need to attach it. You wouldn't need to gather it in very much... running it through your machine with a longer stitch and slightly higher tension would almost be enough... but to be able to turn any fabric under, it does need to come in somehow.
I'm pretty sure that two inch hem in the reference is only achievable by attaching some kind of facing, like one would for scalloped edges, but that may add a bit of extra bulk. Could possibly be a cleaner solution, though.
If you have a serger, you're in better shape. A narrow hem may work, though they tend to work better for more delicate layers, and it's difficult to keep them from coming out wavy when they're done on curved lines (if the fabric stretches at all). Otherwise you can serge the bottom edge and just turn that portion under. Iron everything before and after sewing, tack it by hand if you can, and it should turn out pretty clean. I have a circle skirt where that worked out okay. If nothing else, the stripe of pink embroidery (or trim or whatever you're using) should cover up any leftover wonkiness.
There are definitely still ways of finishing it cleanly, and I'd suggest going that route, since skirt hems tend to take a bit of a beating.
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Unread 10-20-2011, 07:01 AM   #9909
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@LKD: So does this mean you have a friends on the other side?

Meantime, if any of the little 'uns need some help for a Jake and the Never Land Pirates costume, here's a item I wrote on The Disney Wikia Blog page:

http://disney.wikia.com/wiki/User_blog:Mouseinphilly
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Unread 10-20-2011, 11:12 AM   #9910
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Unfortunately an unrelated question (since it's not for a Disney costume), but you ladies really seem to know what you're doing. I'm making a dress and I sick of the crappy boning Joann's sells. What should I use and where can I order it? The dress is lightly boned, not really a corset.
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Unread 10-20-2011, 11:13 AM   #9911
LadySasha
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Nessa ~ You know I think I remember seeing that xD the loop thing! Thanks for telling me that~ That's probably what I'm going to do.



With all this bias/non bias talk going on it makes me realize there's still a lot I need to learn about fabric. I kinda get what bias is but at the same time I don't. RESEARCH TIME...might help explain why the hems of my dresses are always all bacon-y

LEslie ~ Sorry sweetie I must have missed your post.

Reinforced Plastic Flexible Boning (similar to what they sell at Joanns), Synthetic Whale Boning or Rigilene would be your best bets.

This is the company I buy all my boning from. They're pretty good. http://www.corsetmaking.com/CMSpages/CMSboning.html

Last edited by LadySasha : 10-20-2011 at 11:27 AM.
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Unread 10-20-2011, 11:30 AM   #9912
nessabutterfly
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Sasha-- you're welcome. It's a really pretty way to finish off something you want perfectly matched (which is why they use it on formal gowns-- should have remembered that when I was typing up it-- easiest way to describe it!)
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Unread 10-20-2011, 04:15 PM   #9913
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I started gathering reference photos and thinking about fabrics for a Cinderella dress and now i'm so excited I just wanna start! I need to finish Rapunzel now though. Ugh. So many dresses so little time!
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Unread 10-20-2011, 05:44 PM   #9914
Ali
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So I wore my Belle dress to the park for a picnic/cosplay event/my birthday party and my friend Jason was able to get some wonderful photos, which he just shared with me!

Link to facebook

(if that link doesn't work, my facebook cosplay page should have the link to it, as well as some of the progress on my friend's blinged out Jasmine!)

Really pumped to wear it again to Disneyland tomorrow! Not sure when it'll come out again, but it's had a pretty good month.
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Unread 10-20-2011, 08:30 PM   #9915
Suzie Blue
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Sasha- Yup, mine is a circle skirt! This is the pattern I used. Here's a pic of it:
(I hate how the seam looks in that pic! >.< I don't know why it's like that). That pattern should work; I took quite a few inches off of it for Rose, so it should be long enough. I plan to use it for my KtG Ariel as well. Also, I am wearing the E petti from Simplicity 5006 under it.

LKD- It sucks you had to put your costumes in storage! I hope your family issues are soon resolved. But I like the ideas of a fem Facilier!

Lime- My Rose skirt was hemmed with a serger, as you can see pretty well here. It's the most efficient way of hemming a circle skirt. The couture way of hemming one is done basically as Ali said, except it is done with teensy tiny pleats that are sewn down by hand. It actually works beautifully, but I can see why you don't want to do that for Rapunzel.

So, I finally got around to fixing my Sally dress! I took 3 inches off the shoulder seams, meaning I had to take out and replace the sleeves, which took ages! lol I still need to do the stitching over the seams and paint the lines/stitch my gloves, which I will probably do tomorrow. I will be debuting Sally this Saturday! Hopefully I'll be able to get a few good shots if not the full photoshoot. 83
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