Common Questions about Costume Making

godsavethequeen · 06-07-2008, 06:13 PM

Lately, I've been seeing quite a few people asking questions that I'm positive have been answered in other places. In an attempt to answer some common costuming questions, I've started a list below. Please post anything other common questions/tutorials that I missed.

Tutorials:

Appliques
* Applique Basics
* Andrea Zuill's Blog

Bias Tape
* Simple Method
* Continuous Method
* Handy Gadget - These are awesome! I've got a few and they work just great!
* DIY Handy Gadget
* Mitering Corners

Bows
* Bow Tutorial #1
* Bow Tutorial #2

Bootcovers
* Useful Thread #1
* Useful Thread #2
* Boot Cover Tutorial #1
* Boot Cover Tutorial #2
* Boot Cover Tutorial #3
* Boot Cover Tutorial #4
* Bootcover Topper Tutorial #1
* Bootcover Topper Tutorial #2
* Bootcover Topper Tutorial #3

Sailor Collars
* Sailor Collar Tutorial #1
* Sailor Collar Tutorial #2
* Sailor Collar Tutorial #3 (Page 1, 2, & 3)

Hakama

* Hakama Tutorial #1
* Hakama Tutorial #2
* Hakama Tutorial #3
* Roundearth Hakama Pattern
* Costuming.org Hakama Pattern

Kimono

* Useful Thread
* Kimono Tutorial #1
* Kimono Tutorial #2
* Folkwear Kimono Pattern
* Butterick Kimono Pattern

Other Patterns

* Janchan Patterns
* http://www.sewingpatterns.com/
* Simplicity Patterns
* McCalls Patterns
* Folkwear Sewing Patterns
* Butterick Sewing Patterns
* Vogue Sewing Patterns
* KwikSew Patterns
* http://www.patternreview.com
Pleated Skirts

* Pleated Skirt Tutorial #1
* Pleated Skirt Tutorial #2
* Pleated Skirt Tutorial #3
* Pleats Won't Stay In!

Dyeing Fabric

* Useful Thread #1
* Useful Thread #2
* Dying Polyester with iDye
* Can I dye acrylic fabric?
* How about stockings/nylons?
* Can I dye fur?
* How long should the dye set?
* Leatherworld Leather Dyeing FAQ
* Dye Remover Thread
* How do I dye spandex/lycra?
* Acrylic paint instead of dye?
* Can I dye polymer fabrics (neoprene, polypropylene)?
* Gradient Dyeing Tutorial

Painting Fabric

* Painting patent leather
* Removing fabric paint
* Fabric spray paint
* Painting on Silk
* Stencils and Stamps
* Painting on stretch fabric

Fabric Applique

* Heat-N-Bond

Zippers

* Zipper Installation Tutorial #1 (visible sport zipper)
* Zipper Installation Tutorial #2 (fly zipper)
* Zipper Installation Tutorial #3 (invisible zipper)
* Zipper Installation Tutorial #4 (invisible zipper)
* Zipper Installation Tutorial #5 (lapped)
* Shortening a Zipper Tutorial #1
* Shortening a Zipper Tutorial #2

Sleeves of All Sorts

* Useful Thread #1 (poofy)
* Useful Thread #2 (poofy)
* Sleeve Tutorial #1 - HIGHLY RECOMMENDED
* Sleeve Doesn't Fit in Armhole!

Petticoats

* Petticoat Tutorial #1
* Petticoat Tutorial #2
* Petticoat Tutorial #3
* What are they made of?
* Useful Post

Fursuits/Mascots

* Tutorial List
* Working with Fur
* Working with Foam
* Animal Feet
* Mascot Building Tips
* Beetlecat Originals Tutorials List
* Livejournal Community

Alterations

* Taking in a Garment Thread #1
* Taking in a Garment Thread #2
* Taking in a Garment Thread #3

Accessories

* Gloves
* Hats

Tailored Jackets/Menswear

* Useful Thread about Suits/Tuxes

Misc

* Wing Design Tutorial
* Facing a Garment
* Fiber Glass Armour
* Hidden Pocket Tutorial
* Various Tutorials from Taeliac
* More tutorials
* Alicehana's Tutorial List

Need to add more! Make suggesstions!

Ashbrie · 06-07-2008, 06:37 PM

This is a good thread and you are a good person for making it!

Dying fabric seems to be a fairly common topic--if anything, I think this thread is worth posting: http://www.cosplay.com/showthread.php?t=149684 about the recently discovered polyester dye~

godsavethequeen · 06-08-2008, 12:02 AM

Common Questions

* Why can't I find a pattern like the character I'm cosplaying?

Commercial patterns are made for...commercial/mainstream looks. Rather than looking for something exactly like your character's clothing, look for basic pattern shapes that you can modify.

* I don't have a sewing machine. Are gluing & hand sewing feasible options for me?

It all really depends on your patience level and quality expectations. Glue isn't really designed to piece fabric panels together in the same way as a sewing machine (latex being the exception). It can certainly be done, but you simply will not get a fantastic quality costume. Hand sewing is feasible if you have the patience, but do realize that your stitches will not be as consistent as those on a sewing machine and again, the quality of the garment may suffer.

* What kind of fabric should I use for my costume?

Popular choices tend toward cottons, garbadines, lycra, dull satins, etc. Most people would recommend staying away from ultra-shiny satins (difficult to photograph well). Broadcloth tends to be frowned upon as well, due to its thinness, but when full lined or paired up with light interfacing or flatlined, it can hold its own.

* Can I dye (insert name) fabric?

As a general rule, natural fabrics take dye pretty well while synthetics don't take dye very well (if at all in some cases). For more specifics, view the linked threads above.

* Alternatively, can I bleach fabric to make the color lighter or to make the fabric white?

Bleaching out your fabric will give you one of two results: (1) damaged from from oversaturation of bleach or (2) splotchy bleach stains. Additionally, you can never be sure what color your fabric will turn once you bleach it. Remember those favorite black pants that now have pink spots on them from bleach? There is always the possibility of a dye remover, however. See linked thread above.

Need to add more! Make suggesstions! Continued below.

The Hag · 06-10-2008, 09:31 AM

I would add these two to the list. I refer people to them all the time:

Gloves:
http://vintagesewing.info/1950s/50-hmg/hmg-toc.html

Hats:
http://vintagesewing.info/1950s/52-hmh/hmh-toc.html

nathaara · 07-12-2008, 02:33 PM

This is an excellent thread and very helpful.

Eidolon Bird · 07-12-2008, 05:27 PM

I wish I had known about this list when I started my own resources/tutorial thread (on LiveJournal).

I don't have time to copy/paste all my links right now, but I can do so later if necessary.

D001 · 07-12-2008, 06:47 PM

Well here's a post that's going in my bookmarks. This is fantastic! Thank you for doing all of that work!

Riyunah · 07-12-2008, 09:30 PM

@godsavethequeen:

You save the queen and the whole cosplay community!
We can now find useful tutorial/information in a snap!

Great job on putting all of this together. ^^

Beetlecat · 07-13-2008, 12:04 AM

Just a quick revision. Under fursuits/mascots, my name is misspelled 'bettlecat'. Thanks for the correction

The Hag · 07-13-2008, 11:36 AM

GstQ: I would add a link to this thread:

http://www.cosplay.com/showthread.ph...ghlight=tuxedo

under Tailored Jackets

alicehana · 07-24-2008, 12:36 AM

yes, i also have some cosplay tutorials to share which from mine and my friends

Zetsubou-Sensei · 10-14-2008, 06:29 PM

Thank you SO MUCH! I'm glad I checked here- I was freaking out over a Lucky Star seifuku, but now that I have references, I can rest easy. <3

Calico` · 12-04-2008, 04:22 PM

I'm fairly new at making costumes, and i'm having trouble creating a curve to sew on. I heard something like cutting a slit into the fabric so you can turn it along the edge to sew something. Does anyone know what i'm talking about? >.<

godsavethequeen · 12-04-2008, 06:31 PM

It is called clipping. It can be used to either eliminate bulk in a curved seam, or to help ease a curved shape as you sew it to a non-curved shape (side front and center front of a princess seamed bodice, for example).

For the former, clip your seam allowance after you've sewn your line of stitches. I like to clip in "V" shapes.

For the latter, do a stay stitch along your curved edge. A staystitch is a basic, straight line stitch that prevents your fabric from stretching out and gives your fabric piece a little stability. Make the staystitch allowance just slightly smaller than your regular seam allowance. For example, if your seam allowance is 5/8", make your stay stitch about 1/2". After you've made your stay stitch, make a small clip (don't cut past your stitch line) about every 1/2" to 3/4". As you sew both pieces together, it will be much easier to match them up.

Note: As you begin to sew more and more you can elect to make your staystitch allowance the same as your regular seam allowance, just make sure you line everything up or pick out any visible staystitches when you're finished =)

Hope that helps!

The Hag · 12-05-2008, 08:21 AM

Here's a tutorial from Burda showing what GStQ describes:

http://www.burdastyle.com/howto/show/50

(My only quibble with it is that a concave curve does not really have an "apex". It would be more appropriate to use "nadir" or the more general "inflexion point" for both curves. /grammarNazi)

07-12-2008, 09:30 PM	#8
Riyunah 100% Laziness Join Date: Jul 2007 Posts: 106	@godsavethequeen: You save the queen and the whole cosplay community! We can now find useful tutorial/information in a snap! Great job on putting all of this together. ^^ __________________ Otakuthon 2007: Haruhi Suzumiya - The Melancholy of Haruhi Suzumiya Summer uniform Otakuthon 2008: Lunamaria Hawke - Gundam Seed Destiny Elite ZAFT uniform Otakuthon 2009: Maka Albarn - Soul Eater Default outfit Kagamine Rin - Vocaloid Official Art Outfit Otakuthon 2010: Kagamine Rin - Vocaloid ACT1 / Black Magnet Otakuthon 2011: Elucia de Lute Ima - The World God Only Knows Default Demon outfit

07-13-2008, 12:04 AM	#9
Beetlecat Targging it up Join Date: Dec 2006 Posts: 206	Just a quick revision. Under fursuits/mascots, my name is misspelled 'bettlecat'. Thanks for the correction __________________ www.beetlecatoriginals.com - Custom Realistic Fursuits The Answers to Every Question * Check out my next cosplay fursuit - a Klingon targ quad suit! You can watch my progress here: http://www.cosplay.com/showthread.ph...16#post2391916 *

10-14-2008, 06:29 PM	#12
Zetsubou-Sensei Registered User Join Date: Oct 2008 Posts: 3	Thank you SO MUCH! I'm glad I checked here- I was freaking out over a Lucky Star seifuku, but now that I have references, I can rest easy. <3 __________________ ZETSUBOUSHITAAAAAAAAAAAA

12-04-2008, 06:31 PM	#14
godsavethequeen Seamstress Extraordinaire Join Date: Oct 2007 Posts: 218	It is called clipping. It can be used to either eliminate bulk in a curved seam, or to help ease a curved shape as you sew it to a non-curved shape (side front and center front of a princess seamed bodice, for example). For the former, clip your seam allowance after you've sewn your line of stitches. I like to clip in "V" shapes. For the latter, do a stay stitch along your curved edge. A staystitch is a basic, straight line stitch that prevents your fabric from stretching out and gives your fabric piece a little stability. Make the staystitch allowance just slightly smaller than your regular seam allowance. For example, if your seam allowance is 5/8", make your stay stitch about 1/2". After you've made your stay stitch, make a small clip (don't cut past your stitch line) about every 1/2" to 3/4". As you sew both pieces together, it will be much easier to match them up. Note: As you begin to sew more and more you can elect to make your staystitch allowance the same as your regular seam allowance, just make sure you line everything up or pick out any visible staystitches when you're finished =) Hope that helps! __________________ Catherine L. Jones Owner and Head Seamstress of God Save the Queen Fashions, LLC http://www.godsavethequeenfashions.com orders @ godsavethequeenfashions.com 678-595-4161 We take commissions for custom costumes and wigs! Cosplay, movie reproduction, original designs - we do it all! We also sell makeup, shoes, ready-made items, and much more. Check out our website!

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06-07-2008, 06:13 PM	#1
godsavethequeen Seamstress Extraordinaire Join Date: Oct 2007 Posts: 218	Common Questions about Costume Making Lately, I've been seeing quite a few people asking questions that I'm positive have been answered in other places. In an attempt to answer some common costuming questions, I've started a list below. Please post anything other common questions/tutorials that I missed. Tutorials: Appliques * Applique Basics * Andrea Zuill's Blog Bias Tape * Simple Method * Continuous Method * Handy Gadget - These are awesome! I've got a few and they work just great! * DIY Handy Gadget * Mitering Corners Bows * Bow Tutorial #1 * Bow Tutorial #2 Bootcovers * Useful Thread #1 * Useful Thread #2 * Boot Cover Tutorial #1 * Boot Cover Tutorial #2 * Boot Cover Tutorial #3 * Boot Cover Tutorial #4 * Bootcover Topper Tutorial #1 * Bootcover Topper Tutorial #2 * Bootcover Topper Tutorial #3 Sailor Collars * Sailor Collar Tutorial #1 * Sailor Collar Tutorial #2 * Sailor Collar Tutorial #3 (Page 1, 2, & 3) Hakama * Hakama Tutorial #1 * Hakama Tutorial #2 * Hakama Tutorial #3 * Roundearth Hakama Pattern * Costuming.org Hakama Pattern Kimono * Useful Thread * Kimono Tutorial #1 * Kimono Tutorial #2 * Folkwear Kimono Pattern * Butterick Kimono Pattern Other Patterns * Janchan Patterns * http://www.sewingpatterns.com/ * Simplicity Patterns * McCalls Patterns * Folkwear Sewing Patterns * Butterick Sewing Patterns * Vogue Sewing Patterns * KwikSew Patterns * http://www.patternreview.com Pleated Skirts * Pleated Skirt Tutorial #1 * Pleated Skirt Tutorial #2 * Pleated Skirt Tutorial #3 * Pleats Won't Stay In! Dyeing Fabric * Useful Thread #1 * Useful Thread #2 * Dying Polyester with iDye * Can I dye acrylic fabric? * How about stockings/nylons? * Can I dye fur? * How long should the dye set? * Leatherworld Leather Dyeing FAQ * Dye Remover Thread * How do I dye spandex/lycra? * Acrylic paint instead of dye? * Can I dye polymer fabrics (neoprene, polypropylene)? * Gradient Dyeing Tutorial Painting Fabric * Painting patent leather * Removing fabric paint * Fabric spray paint * Painting on Silk * Stencils and Stamps * Painting on stretch fabric Fabric Applique * Heat-N-Bond Zippers * Zipper Installation Tutorial #1 (visible sport zipper) * Zipper Installation Tutorial #2 (fly zipper) * Zipper Installation Tutorial #3 (invisible zipper) * Zipper Installation Tutorial #4 (invisible zipper) * Zipper Installation Tutorial #5 (lapped) * Shortening a Zipper Tutorial #1 * Shortening a Zipper Tutorial #2 Sleeves of All Sorts * Useful Thread #1 (poofy) * Useful Thread #2 (poofy) * Sleeve Tutorial #1 - HIGHLY RECOMMENDED * Sleeve Doesn't Fit in Armhole! Petticoats * Petticoat Tutorial #1 * Petticoat Tutorial #2 * Petticoat Tutorial #3 * What are they made of? * Useful Post Fursuits/Mascots * Tutorial List * Working with Fur * Working with Foam * Animal Feet * Mascot Building Tips * Beetlecat Originals Tutorials List * Livejournal Community Alterations * Taking in a Garment Thread #1 * Taking in a Garment Thread #2 * Taking in a Garment Thread #3 Accessories * Gloves * Hats Tailored Jackets/Menswear * Useful Thread about Suits/Tuxes Misc * Wing Design Tutorial * Facing a Garment * Fiber Glass Armour * Hidden Pocket Tutorial * Various Tutorials from Taeliac * More tutorials * Alicehana's Tutorial List Need to add more! Make suggesstions! __________________ Catherine L. Jones Owner and Head Seamstress of God Save the Queen Fashions, LLC http://www.godsavethequeenfashions.com orders @ godsavethequeenfashions.com 678-595-4161 We take commissions for custom costumes and wigs! Cosplay, movie reproduction, original designs - we do it all! We also sell makeup, shoes, ready-made items, and much more. Check out our website! Last edited by godsavethequeen : 07-15-2009 at 12:10 PM.

06-07-2008, 06:37 PM	#2
Ashbrie SUDDENLY MIRACLE TRAIN! Join Date: Nov 2003 Posts: 988	This is a good thread and you are a good person for making it! Dying fabric seems to be a fairly common topic--if anything, I think this thread is worth posting: http://www.cosplay.com/showthread.php?t=149684 about the recently discovered polyester dye~ __________________ www.ashbrie.com \| Facebook Page

06-08-2008, 12:02 AM	#3
godsavethequeen Seamstress Extraordinaire Join Date: Oct 2007 Posts: 218	Common Questions * Why can't I find a pattern like the character I'm cosplaying? Commercial patterns are made for...commercial/mainstream looks. Rather than looking for something exactly like your character's clothing, look for basic pattern shapes that you can modify. * I don't have a sewing machine. Are gluing & hand sewing feasible options for me? It all really depends on your patience level and quality expectations. Glue isn't really designed to piece fabric panels together in the same way as a sewing machine (latex being the exception). It can certainly be done, but you simply will not get a fantastic quality costume. Hand sewing is feasible if you have the patience, but do realize that your stitches will not be as consistent as those on a sewing machine and again, the quality of the garment may suffer. * What kind of fabric should I use for my costume? Popular choices tend toward cottons, garbadines, lycra, dull satins, etc. Most people would recommend staying away from ultra-shiny satins (difficult to photograph well). Broadcloth tends to be frowned upon as well, due to its thinness, but when full lined or paired up with light interfacing or flatlined, it can hold its own. * Can I dye (insert name) fabric? As a general rule, natural fabrics take dye pretty well while synthetics don't take dye very well (if at all in some cases). For more specifics, view the linked threads above. * Alternatively, can I bleach fabric to make the color lighter or to make the fabric white? Bleaching out your fabric will give you one of two results: (1) damaged from from oversaturation of bleach or (2) splotchy bleach stains. Additionally, you can never be sure what color your fabric will turn once you bleach it. Remember those favorite black pants that now have pink spots on them from bleach? There is always the possibility of a dye remover, however. See linked thread above. Need to add more! Make suggesstions! Continued below. __________________ Catherine L. Jones Owner and Head Seamstress of God Save the Queen Fashions, LLC http://www.godsavethequeenfashions.com orders @ godsavethequeenfashions.com 678-595-4161 We take commissions for custom costumes and wigs! Cosplay, movie reproduction, original designs - we do it all! We also sell makeup, shoes, ready-made items, and much more. Check out our website! Last edited by godsavethequeen : 09-25-2008 at 05:59 PM.

06-10-2008, 09:31 AM	#4
The Hag Fine. Join Date: May 2007 Posts: 8,907	I would add these two to the list. I refer people to them all the time: Gloves: http://vintagesewing.info/1950s/50-hmg/hmg-toc.html Hats: http://vintagesewing.info/1950s/52-hmh/hmh-toc.html

07-12-2008, 02:33 PM	#5
nathaara Registered User Join Date: Aug 2006 Posts: 5	This is an excellent thread and very helpful.

07-12-2008, 05:27 PM	#6
Eidolon Bird She's a strange bird Join Date: Jan 2005 Posts: 354	I wish I had known about this list when I started my own resources/tutorial thread (on LiveJournal). I don't have time to copy/paste all my links right now, but I can do so later if necessary.

07-12-2008, 06:47 PM	#7
D001 D Join Date: Oct 2006 Posts: 729	Well here's a post that's going in my bookmarks. This is fantastic! Thank you for doing all of that work!

07-13-2008, 11:36 AM	#10
The Hag Fine. Join Date: May 2007 Posts: 8,907	GstQ: I would add a link to this thread: http://www.cosplay.com/showthread.ph...ghlight=tuxedo under Tailored Jackets

07-24-2008, 12:36 AM	#11
alicehana Banned Join Date: Jul 2008 Posts: 102	yes, i also have some cosplay tutorials to share which from mine and my friends

12-04-2008, 04:22 PM	#13
Calico` Registered User Join Date: Jul 2008 Posts: 8	I'm fairly new at making costumes, and i'm having trouble creating a curve to sew on. I heard something like cutting a slit into the fabric so you can turn it along the edge to sew something. Does anyone know what i'm talking about? >.<

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12-05-2008, 08:21 AM	#15
The Hag Fine. Join Date: May 2007 Posts: 8,907	Here's a tutorial from Burda showing what GStQ describes: http://www.burdastyle.com/howto/show/50 (My only quibble with it is that a concave curve does not really have an "apex". It would be more appropriate to use "nadir" or the more general "inflexion point" for both curves. /grammarNazi)

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