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Unread 06-03-2010, 11:12 PM   #1
page of wands
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Padding in a jacket? (Howl)

(Hopefully this is in the right place to post, I felt this was more to do with construction and materials rather than details for this character's particular costume!!!)

Hello! I am just starting to plan my attack strategy for making Howl's coat (howl's moving castle). Most jackets I've seen have looked quite thin and don't have the bulk I'd like to try for. Based on the reference pictures below, do you think some cotton padding/batting would help the coat to look fuller and less flat?

http://animeholicph.files.wordpress....ing-sophie.jpg
http://www.nausicaa.net/miyazaki/how...esticScene.jpg
As an end product, I would be going for something similar to the thickness of this jacket except without the shinyness:
http://www.goodorient.com/images/P/WB1197_200.jpg

What do you think? Would cotton batting help add weight and fullness to the jacket like the reference (and more like a real coat in general!) or is it too much? Does anyone have experience adding padding into a jacket or sewing project before? I'm a bit unsure as to how to attach it within the lining. It's mostly the sleeves that have this fullness to them, not really the rest of the jacket though so I'm still deciding if I should pad only the sleeves or the entire thing.....suggestions??
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Unread 06-04-2010, 04:20 AM   #2
Kelley
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I don't think batting on its own would work - it would just shift around and probably collect at the hem after a while.

You would need to quilt a double lining - or the entire garment (it does have geometric designs).

Or you could just line with a piece of pre-quilted fabric - I'm pretty sure JoAnn's even sells these !


I would definitely quilt / line the whole thing if you do it, though. I think it would look strange to have a really floppy body with padded sleeves unless that's specifically the look you need - which I don't see in the reference pictures.
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Unread 06-04-2010, 05:27 AM   #3
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That's a good suggestion about the batting bunching up and shifting... I had read that somewhere but wasn't sure what to do to prevent it!! I will look into that pre-quilted fabric then, or some more quilting methods (??) to try and stop the bunching.

Also, yeah I would probably have to pad either all of it, or none since it would look pretty strange with giant fluffy arms and then a flat body for the coat.... o_O

thanks for the ideas!
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Unread 06-04-2010, 07:25 AM   #4
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^seconding the lining with quilted fabric thing. That's easy to do and will provide some of the stability and thickness you're looking for.
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Unread 06-04-2010, 08:49 PM   #5
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I...guess I'm wondering what you think looks padded? The coat in the images looks very normal to me. Not cotton broadcloth thin, no, but it doesn't look thick. No more thick than a lined coat ought to, not even as thick as a wool peacoat would look. Quilting a lining sounds like a lot of work to go through for a nonexistent problem - I have quilted a lining for a winter coat and oh my GOD is it painful and time-consuming. And the drawings indicate a flat color lining, quilting stitches would show obviously (even using pre-quilted fabric, which you can probably get in red, yes...). Not to mention that adding a lining consisting of quilt batting will make the coat very hot to wear, even if you don't have the sleeves on your arms.

The "puffyness" of the sleeves is in the tailoring. They are similar to uniform sleeves in that they're eased - gathered at the shoulder seam. Lined sleeves will naturally have that look of bulk unless you're using ridiculously thin fabrics like broadcloth, which I don't recommend on priniciple anyway. If you're using thicker, appropriate coat fabrics, like cotton twill or wool, I doubt it would be a problem. The problem you often see with people making these coats is that they don't modify the pattern to fit them, so the shoulder seam ends up way far down their arm when it should be way up on the shoulder. That's what causes sag and droop - bad tailoring, not thin fabric.
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Unread 06-04-2010, 09:41 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CapsuleCorp View Post
The "puffyness" of the sleeves is in the tailoring. They are similar to uniform sleeves in that they're eased - gathered at the shoulder seam. Lined sleeves will naturally have that look of bulk unless you're using ridiculously thin fabrics like broadcloth, which I don't recommend on priniciple anyway. If you're using thicker, appropriate coat fabrics, like cotton twill or wool, I doubt it would be a problem. The problem you often see with people making these coats is that they don't modify the pattern to fit them, so the shoulder seam ends up way far down their arm when it should be way up on the shoulder. That's what causes sag and droop - bad tailoring, not thin fabric.
Thanks everyone for the suggestions. I guess I just thought that the fluffy weight in the sleeves looked like it could be improved by padding, but it's true that the body of the coat doesn't have anything like that going on! If a heavy fabric with lining will do the same effect then maybe I will try that. I'll see what they have in the shops in my area, cause it's true I'd like to make this jacket less complicated if possible!

http://www.warehousefabricsinc.com/b...d-interlining/
I found this tutorial about interlining a jacket so that it's hidden inside the coat and the lining but....looks like a lot of work!!!! :\
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Unread 06-05-2010, 10:01 PM   #7
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That's a very nice tutorial. Though, you can see that the suggestion of an interlining is to make a jacket warmer. If you don't want a warmer jacket, then the method is probably not advisable.

Ah, I should toss some shots of my HOLY uniform from s-cry-ed into my gallery. It's a twill-on-twill lined coat, and looks a lot thicker than it really is. Even two layers of twill is pretty warm, I can't imagine adding an interlining of batting. Holy baking in that uniform Batman...
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Unread 06-06-2010, 02:26 AM   #8
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I just finished making my own Howl coat. I used stretch sateen, threw in some interfacing, and lined it with taffeta. Despite swearing off bad fashion elements of the 80's, I also added some shoulder pads to the jacket and that helped substantially to give a better silhouette and more structure/shape to the shoulders. I didn't want to add bulk to the jacket, but with the interfacing, taffeta, and shoulder pads, I find that my jacket looks far from thin or flimsy like some of them. Some of those options might be of interest to you.
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Unread 06-06-2010, 07:58 AM   #9
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Originally Posted by page of wands View Post
....looks like a lot of work!!!! :\
There's no getting around it. Making a coat that looks like a real coat simply is a lot of work! Most fabrics on their own are too thin - even those meant for coats - and need to be both lined and interlined. Rather than cotton batting, I'd use hymo. It's a heavy interfacing that is specifically designed to give shape and heft to coats. It sews like a dream and, though warm, will be less stifling than cotton batting. The downside is that you will probably have to buy it online (tailoring supplies and some sewing supply places carry it). The 100% wool version is expensive, but their are cheaper synthetic versions. I'd also recommend picking up a cheap coat at a thrift store and taking it apart so that you can see the different layers. Good luck!
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Unread 06-07-2010, 06:38 PM   #10
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Thanks again for the ideas everyone!

^I guess I just have to resign myself to the fact that this jacket will be a lot of work! I may just try and forgo the interlining if I can find a nice heavy fabric then, since I am definitely not going for extra warth! (I'm currently living in Hong Kong and it's generally pretty hot here!!! I'd be a walking baked potato ....!!! o__O) There is one awesome Howl jacket I've seen that had great sleeves, and it may just have been the great shape they gave to it through tailoring. Guess I will just have to give it a go. May try the thrift store jacket idea!

Capsulecorp, awesome jackets you've got in your gallery!! Wish I could get my tailoring to look like that! And @Ion, I agree totally about the shoulder pads! Some of my favourite Howl jackets I've seen out there look like they've had them added in and I think it makes for a great silhouette!
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