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Unread 07-19-2010, 10:49 AM   #1
alliaxandromeda
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Patterns for the Uniforms

Over the last couple of days, I've been scouring the forums for advice as to which patterns are best to use. Many have suggested safari jacket patterns, this pattern http://sewing.patternreview.com/cgi-...atternid=15716 cropping up fairly frequently.

Being the crazy-obsessive-perfectionist that I am, the latter doesn't look close enough to what they actually wear. In terms of the colour at least.

http://hetalia.wikia.com/wiki/Arthur_Kirkland

From what I've seen over the course of my research, a safari jacket looks closer to the uniform they wear. How much adjustment would be necessary to make a safari jacket look right, given that the only pattern experience I have is that of a small plushie. I'm not a complete beginner, however.
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Unread 07-20-2010, 02:17 PM   #2
sunnystars
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okay, so what I used was this pattern: http://sewing.patternreview.com/Patterns/13887 which turned out accurate, but be warned: The instructions in the pattern were hardly clear at all, and I pretty much had to wing it. But, if you can find a regular suit pattern from another company, it should work! =]]
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Unread 07-20-2010, 02:44 PM   #3
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Quote:
but be warned: The instructions in the pattern were hardly clear at all, and I pretty much had to wing it.
From what I've read in other threads, many people have also said that it was a hard pattern to follow as well...

I think maybe it'd be a good idea to carry on researching it first.
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Unread 07-21-2010, 10:16 AM   #4
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I would not go with the Burda 7918 pattern, especially if you do not have a great deal of sewing experience. As stated before, it seems to have instructions that are difficult to understand. Also, it contains princess seams which Iggy's uniform does not have. On top of that, the pockets are a bit off and it's not fitted like his is. While these modification can be made to that pattern, I don't think it is worth it.

My suggestion may seem a bit odd but it is how I would go about making it. Try to find a shirt pattern that is very close. Pajama tops are similar in style. Suit patterns tend to have seams that the military jacket does not have. Create a mock up. ,have someone fit it properly to you. Pin that, mark it, and cut/seam rip it into pattern pieces using your new markings. Use your deconstructed mock up as a pattern. Be sure to add seam allowance. Add pockets and epaulets (you can find these in another pattern, draft them up yourself, or you can probably find patterns for these free online).

Here is a simple pattern that can be modified: http://www.simplicity.com/p-2071-plu...leepwear.aspx#

This may seem like it is more difficult/time consuming but it is actually very simple and will give you a well-tailored look. Since it is a military jacket, you want it to fit well and look neat.
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Unread 07-21-2010, 04:05 PM   #5
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I haven't actually used the pattern so I don't know how good it is yet but this one seems pretty good:

http://sewing.patternreview.com/patterns/15716

It seems to be good for the Italy's jackets and maybe England's? I'm sorry if this isn't all that good.
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Unread 07-25-2010, 08:54 AM   #6
alliaxandromeda
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TrannyMess View Post
Add pockets and epaulets (you can find these in another pattern, draft them up yourself, or you can probably find patterns for these free online).
Is there a specific name for the kinds of pockets that the Hetalia military jackets have?

Also, will I need to use interfacing in the jacket?
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Unread 07-25-2010, 10:53 AM   #7
TrannyMess
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alliaxandromeda View Post
Is there a specific name for the kinds of pockets that the Hetalia military jackets have?

Also, will I need to use interfacing in the jacket?
I can't remember if there is a specific name. They are kind of like breast pockets, though. I've drafted a few and I may have one or two I can scan if I come across one while organizing my sewing closet later today.

http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_okZ_1FELQ9...et+pattern.jpg

That is the general idea. Cut on the fold. Open it up. Fold the rectangle into it. Press and stitch for best hold. Fold back edges, pin, and sew to the garment.

You will definitely need to interface the jacket. I usually interface at least the front and collar with a medium weight interfacing and then line the front with the same fabric I am using for the jacket. Military jackets should be fairly stiff and not wrinkle easily. Also, be sure to press it well before wearing it.

Since we are on the subject of patterns for Hetalia. I thought we could probably make a master list of patterns that work for different uniforms.

Here are some that my friend and I have made and the patterns we used:

Finland: http://trannymess.deviantart.com/gallery/#/d2n20qk - Simplicity 2741
Japan: http://www.facebook.com/album.php?ai...id=41854083608 - Kwik Sew 3484
Sweden and Denmark:http://www.facebook.com/album.php?ai...32763603 8608 - Simplicity 2513
Canada: http://trannymess.deviantart.com/gallery/#/d2ko759 - modified men's trench coat

And I know that Simplicity 2517 would work well for France's jacket. Obviously, some of these patterns needed to be modified but they worked well as bases.
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Last edited by TrannyMess : 07-26-2010 at 09:53 AM.
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Unread 07-25-2010, 07:53 PM   #8
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Another option you could use is just to buy a military coat. Expensive, I know, and also a little heavy, but that's how you're gonna get the most accurate. There are plenty of sites that sell them for reenactors. Also, you could try two other types of patterns and modify them a little: a men's button down flannel shirt with pockets on the front (you could move them around and create duplicates if necessary), and a casual men's sport coat. The sport coat may work better because it's an actual coat that you can put a lining in (kind of like a casual version of a suit jacket), and has more of the military coat features, however, it may not matter because you can change the weight with the type of fabric you buy, and then simply add the little details yourself.
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Unread 07-25-2010, 10:04 PM   #9
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When I made my Italy coat I used McCall's M4598 and just made my pockets from scratch. It was my first time making a life-size cosplay, and even though I cut a LOT of corners (i still do, i don't understand patterns at all lol) it was still super easy.

In general, a regular blazer pattern will work for England, you'll just have to wing it with the pockets (not hard at all, again). For the other types of uniforms, like Germany and Spain, a regular button-down shirt pattern will work.
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Unread 07-26-2010, 10:40 AM   #10
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The main thing to keep in mind with making uniforms is that, unless the uniform has a pattern specifically created for what you are making (there are a few historical uniform patterns), you will have to either draft your own pattern or modify an existing one. I prefer to do a mixture of both.

When looking for a pattern to modify, I usually look for a few key elements. General fit is the first. Does it seem to fit the body with the proper proportions? I'm a big stickler for fit. There are different proportions for men and womens garments. There are also different proportions for certain historical periods. And, of course, uniforms have specific proportions. If the pattern has similar proportions to what you are trying to create, you are off to a good start.

Another thing I look for is collars. I loath drafting collars and they are not the easiest to draft to fit an existing pattern. So, look at the type of collar the garment needs. Is it at least similar. Curving pointed corners or making curved corners pointed is an easy task. Transforming an entire collar is not. One exception to this rule is mandarin collars. They are fairly simple to draft as long as you have the correct neck measurement.

Pockets, epaulets, length, cuffs, and closures can all be easily drafted and modified. Most patterns will tell you where to shorten or lengthen a garment so as not to throw off the proportions. You can also mix and match. Perhaps one pattern has the correct pockets, another has the bodice, and yet another has the sleeves you need. Experiment.

However, none of this really matters if your pattern pieces do not work together and the garment doesn't fit properly. Unless you have the money to buy extra fabric for your garment, I suggest making a mock-up. You can use anything to make it: scraps from an old project, cheap muslin, broadcloth, whatever is on sale, an old bed sheet, etc. Use your modified pattern and make the garment as if you were making it for the real deal. When it's done, look at it. Does everything work together?

Try it on. Does it fit? Most likely, it won't. Have someone pin it into the correct fit. Mark where the pins are. Rip all of the seams and cut the mock up down. Use that as your new pattern. If you feel more comfortable with a paper pattern, trace it onto paper. Be sure to give yourself seam allowance. Make your garment.

If you are drafting your own pattern completely, I suggest using a body sloper. There are some tutorials online. I suggest using The Costume Technicians Handbook by Rosemary Ingram. It has some great tips in it.
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Unread 08-06-2010, 11:45 AM   #11
alliaxandromeda
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As for the fabric to use...I was in a fabric shop with one of my aunts recently, and we came across a fabric that I'm using for a completely different project, a cotton and lycra blend (98% and 2% respectively).

It feels like a good material to use for the military uniforms, but many people have said Twill...?
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Unread 08-06-2010, 10:37 PM   #12
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Recently, I've had Simplicity 2340 ('boyfriend jacket') reccomended to me for uniform jackets like England, America, so on. The pockets will need to be altered a bit, of course, but it seems like it'll be pretty sound if made with the right material.
And after some deliberation, I winded up getting Simplicity 2342 for the pants....

I've also been told to use twill... unless someone has any better reccomendations? They said that it's sturdy, and most likely won't need lining?
I know this has been asked before (sorry!), but will it also need to be interfaced, then, if it is made of twill? Or would it be better to just interface it anyway, whether whatever fabric chosen is stiff or not?
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Unread 08-08-2010, 10:38 AM   #13
TrannyMess
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Quote:
Originally Posted by YaoiShadow View Post
Recently, I've had Simplicity 2340 ('boyfriend jacket') reccomended to me for uniform jackets like England, America, so on. The pockets will need to be altered a bit, of course, but it seems like it'll be pretty sound if made with the right material.
And after some deliberation, I winded up getting Simplicity 2342 for the pants....

I've also been told to use twill... unless someone has any better reccomendations? They said that it's sturdy, and most likely won't need lining?
I know this has been asked before (sorry!), but will it also need to be interfaced, then, if it is made of twill? Or would it be better to just interface it anyway, whether whatever fabric chosen is stiff or not?
Wool or a cotton twill would best. You still need to interface twill and I would line both wool and twill. I usually interface at least the front of a jacket made with twill and then line it with the same fabric I used to make the jacket. It keeps the jacket sturdy and gives it a more professional look.
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Unread 08-08-2010, 11:36 AM   #14
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I'd just like to mention that most of the uniforms in APH are based on real ones, you can use pictures of them for reference on the more obscured and simplified parts of the uniforms in Hetalia.
I know some people have already mentioned this website http://www.harriets.com/Sitemap.htm , but be aware that there are some historical inaccuracies with those patterns. http://forum.axishistory.com/viewtop... 6d9f6ceeaf0de Also wanted to say that with some edits, the M36 tunic pattern can also be used to make Finland's tunic. (Look up the Finnish M36 to see what I mean.)
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Unread 08-08-2010, 10:16 PM   #15
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I'm thinking of cosplaying Egypt. What kind of pattern do you guys think would work well as his? This might actually work for him but I'd have to shorten the sleeves. I could also maybe get rid of the collar..

Would cotton twill also work with the pants? Or should a lighter fabric be used for the pants?
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