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Unread 07-13-2014, 05:24 PM   #1
Shinigami Desu~
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Basic Sewing and Hemming

Hey guys, I'm pretty new to sewing and general and I have a rather basic question for you regarding putting fabric and lining together. When I do it I just sew them together and turn it inside out, but that tends to balloon on me and not be very flat. I'm trying to make the skirt part of a sailor scout uniform, and am kind of at a loss for what to do. Should I just sew the pieces together and hem the edges instead of turning it inside out?

Any help would be greatly appreciated!
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Unread 07-13-2014, 05:54 PM   #2
Evil Bishounen
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First, it really helps if you post some photos - both of the specific costume you are trying to make, and of your actual project. It's easier to see what you want to achieve as well as what you're doing wrong rather than try to guess at it. It's happened on many occasions that what we think is going on is actually totally different because the OP isn't using the proper terminology, isn't describing it well, or is leaving some key information out.

Now, based on your description (and the use of the word "ballooning"), it sounds like you aren't ironing anything. If I'm right, you're missing a pretty important part of the process. But I won't know if I'm right without a picture.

Not really sure why you'd want to line a skirt like that, though. I'd think the better way to go would be to leave it unlined and use a blind hem to finish the lower edge.
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Unread 07-13-2014, 06:16 PM   #3
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Right, photos would be extremely helpful:

Here's the tutorial I'm following:
http://fc02.deviantart.net/fs70/f/20...si-d5hef24.pdf

And this is what I'm currently trying to do. Just the skirt part, though:
http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedi...iloruranus.jpg

Project wise, I haven't actually done anything but cut out two 90 by 13 inch pieces of fabric (as per the tutorial) . I don't know if photos would actually do anything in this situation, since I'm asking before I start anything.

I've heard that I should iron, but to be honest I'm not sure how to go about doing that. (Not ironing itself, but how that should be done in relation to sewing)

Again, I'm new to this, but thank you so much for helping.
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Unread 07-13-2014, 07:18 PM   #4
Evil Bishounen
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Okay, I read through the tutorial and a couple of things come to mind:

1) She doesn't mention lining for the skirt anywhere, which leads me to believe that she isn't lining it at all. So, I'm not really sure why you want to line the skirt. I mean, I would understand if the skirt needed to be a very light color, because in that case you would have to line it to maintain opacity. However, the skirt you're making is dark teal, so it's already going to be pretty opaque.

Typically, a skirt like this wouldn't be lined anyway. I wouldn't bother doing it. It would interfere with the pleating, and it would create a lot of extra bulk at the lower edge which screws up how the pleats rest.

2) ....Please tell me you aren't actually using polyester poplin @_@ *burns it with fire and watches it melt into slag* So, I'll spare you my anti-poplin rant, but this does relate to one of the reasons I hate it and some of the problem you seem to be having.

I mentioned before that you NEED to iron things. In sewing, in pleating, in hemming, in lining - you need to iron it. The heat of the iron and the pressure created by the iron's weight is what presses fabric flat. Seam allowances, edges, and pleats must be pressed flat with an iron, otherwise they balloon out and you cannot get that crisp look. So, you need to iron your pleats. If you WERE bag-lining this (which I still think is a terrible idea), you would be ironing that edge when you flip the whole piece right-side out.

Poly poplin in particular makes all of this more of a pain in the ass because it's very resistant to ironing and also can't handle much heat. The only iron I've owned that was able to press poly poplin well was a $100+ industrial-grade Reliable iron.
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Unread 07-13-2014, 08:16 PM   #5
EvilLittleKiss
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Evil Bishounen View Post
I mentioned before that you NEED to iron things. In sewing, in pleating, in hemming, in lining - you need to iron it. The heat of the iron and the pressure created by the iron's weight is what presses fabric flat. Seam allowances, edges, and pleats must be pressed flat with an iron, otherwise they balloon out and you cannot get that crisp look.
This. My sewing teacher always told me, iron after EVERY step you take. Sewn a seam? Iron it. Bought fabric? Iron it before you even cut anything out. Bought a pattern? Iron it before laying it on the fabric. Hemmed something? Iron it. Added a zipper? Iron it. You get my point.

Ironing makes much more of a difference than you would expect.
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Unread 07-13-2014, 08:17 PM   #6
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1) The lining isn't really mentioned as it is featured in the diagram for step 1, but you're right. Lining does seem pointless in this situation and with my luck, I would definitely mess it up.

2) No, It's not poplin so there's no need to worry about that XD

3) Ironing= very important. I learned something new today! I will be sure to iron my edges, seam allowances and pleats from now on.

I am not going to bag line it , but I'm glad you told me what to do anyway. I was really curious about what to do in an actual lining situation, so this will help me a great deal in the future.

I have a much better idea of what I'm doing now, thank you so much. I wish there was a like or upvote thing on here.
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Unread 07-13-2014, 08:20 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EvilLittleKiss View Post
This. My sewing teacher always told me, iron after EVERY step you take. Sewn a seam? Iron it. Bought fabric? Iron it before you even cut anything out. Bought a pattern? Iron it before laying it on the fabric. Hemmed something? Iron it. Added a zipper? Iron it. You get my point.

Ironing makes much more of a difference than you would expect.
I'm sure that will help with a lot of my beginner's problems, thank you for the input.
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Unread 07-14-2014, 01:11 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shinigami Desu~ View Post
1) The lining isn't really mentioned as it is featured in the diagram for step 1, but you're right. Lining does seem pointless in this situation and with my luck, I would definitely mess it up.

2) No, It's not poplin so there's no need to worry about that XD

3) Ironing= very important. I learned something new today! I will be sure to iron my edges, seam allowances and pleats from now on.

I am not going to bag line it , but I'm glad you told me what to do anyway. I was really curious about what to do in an actual lining situation, so this will help me a great deal in the future.

I have a much better idea of what I'm doing now, thank you so much. I wish there was a like or upvote thing on here.
In general, when you line a piece (I think of bodices/shirts mostly when I hear lining), you sew the lining and top fabric right sides together, so when you turn it inside out (think like you're making a pillowcase), you have the right sides out with the seams in the middle (tucked nicely away and out of view). You're right about the ballooning, but only if you don't iron it. It's a good idea (read: you should ALWAYS do this) to iron your seams (and clip if necessary for curves). Otherwise your pieces end up looking bad, not fitting right, sitting awkward, etc.

Read as many sewing tutorials as you can - they typically include tips on "finishing seams" which often includes, you guessed it, ironing. If you look on youtube, you'll see a ton of videos that show you exactly how to iron it (hey - if you haven't ironed many things or many seams in your life, you might not know the proper way and that's okay!). It's a good idea (read: you should ALWAYS do this) to iron in-between each step (even when you're not sewing lining). Iron your seams!!
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Unread 07-18-2014, 03:04 PM   #9
Shinigami Desu~
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Quote:
Originally Posted by super_suji View Post
In general, when you line a piece (I think of bodices/shirts mostly when I hear lining), you sew the lining and top fabric right sides together, so when you turn it inside out (think like you're making a pillowcase), you have the right sides out with the seams in the middle (tucked nicely away and out of view). You're right about the ballooning, but only if you don't iron it. It's a good idea (read: you should ALWAYS do this) to iron your seams (and clip if necessary for curves). Otherwise your pieces end up looking bad, not fitting right, sitting awkward, etc.

Read as many sewing tutorials as you can - they typically include tips on "finishing seams" which often includes, you guessed it, ironing. If you look on youtube, you'll see a ton of videos that show you exactly how to iron it (hey - if you haven't ironed many things or many seams in your life, you might not know the proper way and that's okay!). It's a good idea (read: you should ALWAYS do this) to iron in-between each step (even when you're not sewing lining). Iron your seams!!

Thank you so much! I'll be sure to look up those videos XD
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