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Unread 10-12-2014, 09:03 PM   #1
Zacora
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Triangle in bottom of corset/bodice?

I've made two corset/bodices (Think Belle, Elsa, etc.) and every time I've made one - no matter how I measure - it always comes out that the back doesn't fit right. The top of the bodice overlaps by a good three inches, and at the bottom it's open a good two/three inches. Only the dead center of my back fits right. Is there a trick to getting the back of them to fit right? It doesn't help that with me my right size fits a size M, and my left side fits a S/XS size. But I've made one for someone else and had the same issue. Advice? Are bodices really THAT hard to make?
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Unread 10-12-2014, 09:32 PM   #2
Evil Bishounen
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Sounds like your tailoring isn't right, but it's hard to troubleshoot without seeing the problem. Can you post a photo?
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Unread 10-13-2014, 07:03 AM   #3
Penlowe
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It depends greatly on how you are developing/ modifying the pattern or following the tutorial. It sounds like you've use rectangles for the back pieces when the shapes should be long skinny trapezoids or hourglass shaped pieces.
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Unread 10-13-2014, 11:12 AM   #4
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You say "bodice/corset" -- are you talking something that provides reduction or not? Because that can make a difference in terms of fit.

It'd be helpful, as others have said, to see what you're working from, but one thought offhand from my corsetry experience: a typical corset is based on three measurements (bust, waist, and hips), and a given size assumes "normal" proportions (whatever the heck those actually are). If you're like me and disproportionate, you have to measure each independently and then alter your pattern pieces to accommodate the difference (e.g. tracing a curve between two sizes in waist and hip if they're not the same).
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Unread 10-13-2014, 11:26 AM   #5
Zacora
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The one I'm working on now we've actually had to do the side front/back and back in two inch strips because my measurements are really weird, so I don't know if that will help until we convert it into a real pattern. If not I can try to dig up one of my old ones today.

It doesn't restrict anything, just form fitting.

Is there 'usual' tailoring problems that happen with things like that? Or is each one different?
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Unread 10-13-2014, 12:37 PM   #6
Zacora
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Sorry to double post, but I got pictures of one that doesn't fit. (Sorry about all the random piecing - we're getting it to fit my shape and then we'll morph them into side backs/fronts/etc)

Here's the back, which isn't AS bad as my other ones, but you can see it overlaps at the top, and doesn't fit on the bottom. (link)

And here's the front, in case you need to see that (link)

It's not a super proper fit as my mannequin actually doesn't do my measurements, but you can see the problems.
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Unread 10-13-2014, 01:31 PM   #7
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That back picture is really interesting: the two pieces on either side of the opening should be the same width, but they aren't even close. Is it possible you mixed up your pieces (attached two side backs on the left and two backs on the right?)

Oh, and I have a size 12 bust and a size 10 waist and a size 16 hip, so I can definitely confirm that, like myalchod, for a bodice, I have to adjust the "standard" pattern pieces before I can use them if I want them to be form-fitting.
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Unread 10-13-2014, 07:16 PM   #8
CapsuleCorp
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It's clearly a fitting problem, but there is no such thing as "usual" fitting problems. Unless you're going so basic as "it doesn't fit."

Start from scratch. You're using commercial pattern pieces, yes? Cutting out exactly the pattern pieces for one size or another and sewing it together and seeing if it fits? Well, there's your problem. You're focusing on the size of the pattern pieces and not now they fit.

In the pictures you showed it looks like you've got a mockup there. Good! You're already halfway toward solving the problem. If your dressform doesn't have your measurements, don't fit it to the dressform, fit it to you. If you're doing a dress bodice that will be zipped up the back and not a load-bearing corset? Baste the zipper in and try it on you. That place down at the bottom where your pieces don't match up to even put the zipper in? Grab some scrap fabric, baste it onto the mockup until you have bodice pieces that fit. Then put the zip in. THEN...take out the excess in the other seams.

It's very simple in that, if you're making a mockup before you start, taking excess fabric out of seams is only one way to adjust the fit. If the mockup has gaps, just slap some scrap fabric over the gaps until there are no gaps. Then, once you're sure that the mockup fits in all the places, use the mockup pieces as your pattern pieces.

If this happens a lot, to literally every bodice you mock up? It's very clear that your hip measurement is important and you should be playing attention to it. Cut the pattern pieces to fit your largest measurement. Don't go by what "size" you are, go by your actual numerical measurements. Most people don't have the same measurement scheme as the pattern would like you to think, and most of us who use patterns only as a base for shapes already know we're looking at the M in the chest, the L in the waist, and the S at the collar - learning to tailor requires looking past the "sizes" and cutting/shaping your pattern pieces to fit your actual body.
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Unread 10-13-2014, 08:57 PM   #9
Zacora
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lemuries - the reason the back is so weird is because I'm missing about four inches on my left side somehow. Like I said, my right side is a M size, and my right is almost an XS. (I think it's due to my bra size? One size is a DDD and the other is a D/DD. It took them an hour to properly fit me)

I'll see if maybe letting out the hips would work. Would I do that at the sides to prevent the triangle shape? Or am I doomed to have it in the back?
Another question is if I'm two sizes, can I make the sides even, or will they have to be two different sizes? On one side I have a maybe two inch side front, and on the other it's four inches. Is there a way to make that more even so it at least has the illusion of being correct?

CapsuleCorp - Thanks for the advice! That's pretty much what I had to do, so it's reassuring that I didn't just waste seven hours doing two inch strips and darting them. ^.^
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Unread 10-14-2014, 07:39 AM   #10
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You need a buddy. I'm reasonably limber and I have to have someone else pin things on my back when fitting.

The only place you should be making adjustments for your boobs is on the front and front side panels. Adding to the back will really throw things off.

That said, fit the back completely separate from the front. You can fit the front portions yourself, tinker with them until they are really right, make sure you add at the lower hip area, etc. to get the side seam right down the center of your body from armpit to hip. Once that is done, then you can add the back panels and have your buddy do the extras & take-in pinning.
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