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Unread 03-06-2015, 02:48 PM   #1
CinnamonParrot
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Bishonen eye makeup?

I see the trend now to do really intense eye makeup to look more anime, and I love it. Sadly, though, I am not too good at implementing it. I'm a guy, and I usually crossplay, so I'm great at looking like a girl. But as soon as I try to do guy makeup, i fail miserably.

Anyone have any tips? Tutorials? Something? Or maybe just help on what I'm doing wrong.

https://fbcdn-photos-b-a.akamaihd.ne...370202d573515c

Thats a photo of an attempt I've made. It just... doesn't look as good as everyone I see online, haha. Help?
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Unread 03-06-2015, 03:57 PM   #2
PSY-chan
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You open to some critiques? The first thing I notice is the brows are still girly, they have a "comma" shape, which doesn't read bishonen. For the eyeliner, I would make the upper liner thinner, start it at your inner iris, and extend it slightly further out. I love my $3 ELF angled liner brush for this purpose. The liner on the bottom is very heavy, too. I'd only line the outer 1/3 or less of the lash line, with whatever makeup is left on the brush (after lining the upper lid). If you want to try contouring, this tutorial has lots of advice. Hope some this helps!
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Unread 03-06-2015, 04:50 PM   #3
CinnamonParrot
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I did another makeup test today, following some online tutorial. I did this before seeing your crit, so my eyebrows are still comma shaped and my bottom liner is heavy. But my upper liner is significantly thinner and I did extend the eye more.

https://fbcdn-photos-b-a.akamaihd.ne...e052d1bf9717f4

I mostly just used a closer mirror so I could be more precise. Euh. I'll try what you suggested next time. Thanks!
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Unread 03-06-2015, 05:46 PM   #4
Rinner
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Here's a male contouring video. You might want to highlight as well. And consider adding a clear powder under your eyes before you do your makeup so you can wipe away any errors easily. In the first image you can see that the eyeliner smudged a bit making it look messy. It looks very nice and cleaner in the second image though so good job.

Also take a look at this on how to do the eyes more masculine. Ignore the contouring though because its FtM.

From what I've seen the placement of the wing also changes the effect.

You also look like you need a little concealer under your eye to brighten it up to look more anime. Here's an interesting image with the difference between female highlighting/contouring and male highlighting/contouring.
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Last edited by Rinner : 03-06-2015 at 05:50 PM. Reason: Added more links
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Unread 03-06-2015, 06:14 PM   #5
PSY-chan
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The makeup itself looks fine, it just doesn't read bishonen. Your liner emphasizes the roundness of your eyes. I mentioned above, you want to start your upper line further out, closer to the center of the lid; in your new photo you started it at the tear duct. Bishonen types typically have cat eyes a la Angelina Jolie. Granted her makeup is more feminine, but you can see the extension elongates her eyes. If you're using pencil liner, a brush will really help. Or just make sure your pencil is very sharp, so you get precise lines. Keep practicing!
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Unread 03-06-2015, 06:47 PM   #6
CinnamonParrot
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Contouring really isn't something I'm asking about. I'm really more concerned on eyeliner right now, as when I actually cosplay, a friend of mine does my contouring very well (and not terribly like in the reference photos I posted). So thanks for the suggestions, but that isn't what I'm asking about.

Psy, I don't understand how to achieve the effect you're talking about. I see what you mean with Jolie's eyes, but I don't understand how to get that effect with makeup. Can you explain more? Like, I don't get how to not make my eyes look round.

Edit: i reread what you said a few times and tried again. https://fbcdn-photos-c-a.akamaihd.ne...f927b58f48fafc

Last edited by CinnamonParrot : 03-06-2015 at 06:54 PM.
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Unread 03-06-2015, 07:12 PM   #7
PSY-chan
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You're getting closer, but you can still start and end your line further out, until you achieve what you're hoping for. Here's a makeup tutorial, to give you a better look at what I'm describing.
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Unread 03-06-2015, 07:37 PM   #8
CinnamonParrot
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Alright, I never thought I'd be watching a video on looking like Angelina Jolie, but here I am.

I think I got the eyeliner right (no picture this time, tho, since my camera is bugging out) like how you suggested. I started 1/3 of the way on my eye so it just elongated the sides. But. It looks really plain. Not as popping and anime-like as I'd hope.
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Unread 03-06-2015, 08:11 PM   #9
PSY-chan
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You could blend the liner a bit, make it smokier. Adding some strategic eye shadow or bronzed for contouring will also make your eyes pop, but that requires the right brush(es).
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Unread 03-06-2015, 08:22 PM   #10
CinnamonParrot
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I guess I'm just used to eyes, when making them look particularly anime, having more eyeliner than this. It looks weird. But when I back up from the mirror, it looks good, so I don't know.
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Unread 03-06-2015, 08:51 PM   #11
PSY-chan
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Most people will be arms length distance from you, and your makeup will look fine to them. It just looks heavy right next to a mirror. Take some full cosplay selfies if you need further proof
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Unread 03-20-2015, 04:33 PM   #12
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This might be quite a long post, but I'm going to outline a kind of step by step thing, so hold tight. I'll try to be as helpful and to the point as possible.

It does not look as if you are wearing foundation. Bishounen characters have clear, dewy skin. I suggest concealer, then a pale BB cream (something like Missha or any other Korean brand), then a pearlescent powder for the base.
Your eyebrows are the colour of the wig, and they are too long. Eyebrows tend to be darker than the hair colour. I would suggest using a brow powder and then adding some of the red (to match the wig) over the top- but not too much, otherwise you'll look like a clown.
An important thing to note is NEVER draw your eyebrows on, which you have at the front. Only make corrections. If the character has straight, angled brows, carefully fill in the arches with the brow powder. Brow powder can be bought in a multitude of places, and brands like Etude House and Canmake make some really good ones.
As you will be wearing pale foundation, brow powder is probably the best thing to contour with. Do it very lightly, and follow some tutorials if you're not sure. You want to have a steady hand, though, or you'll look horrendous. Remember to highlight, too.
Eyes are the focal point of a face, as that is what people look at first. I noticed instantly that your eyeliner is too heavy and gloopy. I cannot stress enough how important the eye makeup is for a cosplay.
You'll need a non-smudge eye pencil, gel, or black powder eyeshadow (I think you can get black powder eyeliner, too, but I don't know how obtainable it is). To apply it, you will need an angled brush. I suggest watching a YouTuber called zWinnieyap, who does lots of anime eye tutorials. You can pick the one that is suitable to your character. Another thing is that male eyes will need some kind of dark brown and a kind of dusty burgundy at the outsides, blended fully but still retaining a sharp, boyish look.
Circle lenses are optional depending on your eye colour, but fake eyelashes are NOT. You will need some like these for the upper https://img0.etsystatic.com/001/0/57...66570_sfso.jpg and these for the lower http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Koji-Dolly...p2054897.l4275
I'm not endorsing Dolly Wink or anything- I've never used them. You'll just need something similar.
Of course, you will need to highlight the area below your brows and at the inner corner of your eye.
Lips are simple. An ulzzang-style gradient lip in a coral-ish pink shade (achieved by covering your lips with foundation, then blending lipstick out from the center of your lips) finished with a clear gloss will do the trick.

Some tips:
Always apply your makeup in a well-lit area, and always clip your hair out of the way.
Do not wear your wig while applying the makeup.
The night before, the moment before, and directly after wearing makeup, wash your face thoroughly with hot water and face soap, then rinse with cold water. Moisturize with coconut oil or something chemical-free.
A q-tip dipped in coconut oil can clear up any mistakes (yes I love coconut oil).
I recommend Korean brands for cosplay makeup.
Fake eyelashes can be purchased in packs of up to 20. Here's a link to some like the upper ones I posted an image of earlier http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/10-Pairs-B...em25a294 4a40

If you have any questions, I will be happy to answer any.
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Unread 03-22-2015, 10:59 PM   #13
Morning Star
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Alfons has some great tips, and I fully recommend zWinnieYap on youtube. She does tons of anime characters and I'm sure there is one that will suit your needs. Though keep in mind, she does have monolids, so you will still likely need to experiment a little to make it work on your eyes.

I also have to say that for anime characters especially, I recommend waterproof gel liner you can apply with a brush. This will help give you better control over your application, and waterproof liner will stay all day, even if you happen to sweat.

I do have to say that I disagree with using coconut oil on the face as moisturizer, as it can clog pores and cause blemishes. For some people it works great, but I wouldn't recommend it. Cleaning up mistakes with it should be fine, but make sure you get it all off before you fix them as oil will separate your makeup.
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Unread 03-23-2015, 12:30 PM   #14
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Alfons already gave great tips, so I'm not sure if mine will be helpful . I personally don't like eyeliner at all for male characters, but when people do use it I think it looks better when it is fairly thin and not too thick. If you are ever interested in a more natural look, try dark brown eyeliner instead of black. For the eyebrows, you just need to make the shape slightly more straight and angular than for female characters.
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Unread 03-23-2015, 05:29 PM   #15
Alfons
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Yeah, I did think of that for coconut oil as moisturizer. It works well to remove red patches but I suppose it doesn't work for everything...
I just prefer something a little more gentle since you're going to be rubbing grease and pigment and glue into your face!
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