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Unread 06-17-2017, 12:46 PM   #1
WARPAINTandUnicorns
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Ruffles and Piping(?)

The cosplay in question is this one, Miss Anniversary:
https://www.facebook.com/WARPAINTand...type=3&theater

The first one is what fabric do you recommend to hold it's shaping without resorting to miles of horse hair as well for ALL those ruffles?

The second is the green ribbons do you think the white edge is piping? If so how do you cut and seal a blunt exposed end of piping?
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Last edited by WARPAINTandUnicorns : 06-18-2017 at 10:44 AM.
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Unread 06-17-2017, 07:10 PM   #2
CapsuleCorp
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I can barely see the ribbons in question but 99.9% of ribbons that have that appearance, the white border is part of the ribbon. It's all flat, no piping. Either stitch a narrow ribbon to the edges or paint it, whatever gets you the look.

As for the ruffles, it's not just the fabric choice, but also the degree of gathering. Most of them look to be gathered as heavily as an Elizabethan ruff, that's no mere 1.5x gather. But really as long as you're using anything with body to it - aka not broadcloth or cheap satin - you'll be fine. Taffeta, heavier sateen, fine-line twill, really as long as it's thicker and has a stiff hand it'll do.
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Unread 06-17-2017, 08:22 PM   #3
DlGlT
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Bigger reference


I almost want to say there is batting in each ruffled layer, giving it that puffy look.
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Unread 06-17-2017, 10:59 PM   #4
lunaflora
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Seems to be a sort of sherpa-backed fabric. I believe that the white fluffiness is just a product of the fluffy backing peeking out to the front.


As for the ribbons, you could use bias binding onto the edges of the ribbon. It would also serve to stiffen the edges a bit so they hold the shape of the bows and whatnot better as well.
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Unread 06-18-2017, 06:30 AM   #5
Penlowe
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As much as you'll hate me for the suggestion, I think organza is a good option. It's very light but also very stiff. I just finished making eleven matching party dresses in organza, so I'm really off of the color pink right now. But how much they pouf with only the smallest gathering is wonderful.
this shows how much body organza has: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QpsA1CbRMrA
this one is actually the kind of flowers on that dress: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j7hv3gZ9APo (Ypu can sew ribbon into a box pleat yourself to get the right color)
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Unread 06-18-2017, 09:10 AM   #6
lunaflora
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I'd highly recommend a bustle cage to get the shape of the skirt, instead of relying on the skirt itself. The amount of fabric needed for this skirt is insane, and I think it would be too heavy to get what you want suing fabric alone.
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Unread 06-18-2017, 11:03 AM   #7
WARPAINTandUnicorns
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Yeah, the dress will be heavy for just using a hoop skirt. I've done an open skirt like this before for Madeline Hatter with tiered fabric over several hops but it doesn't have the number of ruffles, pearls, and dollops this project does . lol
https://www.facebook.com/ModelMosa/p...type=3&theater
The top of the skirt will need more support for sure!

I want more of this shape.
https://www.pinterest.com/pin/33284484720279714/
but maybe more of a farthingale support at the top than a Pannier because the guts of the skirt are going to be exposed.
http://www.hotelroomsearch.net/im/ho...hingale-17.jpg
https://www.pinterest.com/pin/336010822188931071/


Organza is pretty amazing but too shimmery for fondant... Yeah, it "Fun" to work with for sure.

I'm not too worried about the thickness of the ruffles as the illustrator wanted the feel of fondant in the ruffles as the character is a Cake. I might do double layers for each layer to get that faux thickness out of the fabric while not making them that thick and see how that look.

I'm thinking of Mi Amor Duchess (Lamour or Mystique Satin), Peau de Soie, or taffita for fabric.
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Last edited by WARPAINTandUnicorns : 06-18-2017 at 12:08 PM.
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Unread 06-18-2017, 11:51 AM   #8
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Those hoopskirts open in front are always hard to approximate with traditional hoop structures. But it IS shaped like a standard hoop, not panniers--it protrudes at front, back, and sides, not just the sides.

So wat do? Make a normal hoopskirt, cut the bones to allow the gap in front, and use interior fabric ties to connect the floating end of each hoop to a point in back. The tension will keep the hoopskirt round. Since the skirt will be heavy, and will be heavier in back than in front, you'll need a bum pad under it to balance how the hoop hangs.

And me, I would DEFINITELY use organza, no question. It's not all shiny. It's got the perfect combination of stiffness and softness for tucking and poufing into all those super-dramatic frosting shapes. Being a little translucent would also offer a visual hint at the interiors of all those foblollys and make the pleats and poufs look even more intricate; an opaque fabric shows only the outermost surface and hides all the tricky work and nifty interior folds and whorls.
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Unread 06-18-2017, 12:08 PM   #9
WARPAINTandUnicorns
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^ That is basically what I did for Madeline Hatter. I did find however the weight of the fabric skirt pushed the hoopskirts forward, by a foot into the front. Not that you can tell in the photos as it looks balance over the bum roll but it was larger in the back.

https://www.facebook.com/ModelMosa/p...type=3&theater

I wonder if I can counter weight the front opening?


For fabric, maybe use the satin for the base of the skirts structure, Ruch and Quilting layer than Organza for the ruffle.
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Last edited by WARPAINTandUnicorns : 06-18-2017 at 12:36 PM.
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Unread 06-18-2017, 01:52 PM   #10
lunaflora
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Perhaps you could use this as a base

That way, the weight is supported by your actual bum/behind rather than having nothing to counterbalance the weight of the skirt.
You could probably modify it to have the silhouette you want, but it seems this would be a good base to build on

and now that I know that the ruffles are supposed to mimic fondant, maybe for the ruffles, you could take your fashion fabric strip, fold it in half so the folded edge is actually the hem of the ruffles (less sewing to do) and then I would interface the ruffle with a fleece/batting, rolling extra fleece/batting at the hem for a more puffy round hem to get the thickness you want. I drew it here.. to hopefully clarify what I mean. maybe it'll further confuse, but hey I tried xD

Last edited by lunaflora : 06-18-2017 at 02:08 PM.
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Unread 06-19-2017, 07:05 AM   #11
Penlowe
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This pinterest board might be of use to you: https://www.pinterest.com/penlowe/se...rence-library/
I've put several historical items in there that have great structure as well as some newer things.
Polyester organzas are shiny, but cotton are not, just harder to find.
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Unread 06-19-2017, 09:43 AM   #12
fabrickind
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Re: Open front hoop skirts, I did one a few years back by stabilizing the front opening with wire and attaching a cut-open hula hoop at about hip level. I had to do a bit of extra stabilization because mine was for a skirt with an uneven hemline (so I had to make it shorter in front as well), but the method worked well. I sewed large washers in the front as counterweight, and that was enough that I didn't need the little butt pillow I made to keep it from tipping back, though I can warn that the rig was a bit heavy and I'd recommend a little bit of waist padding to save yourself some pain.
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