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[KitsuneCagalli]

So my friends have a Kuroshitsuji group with a Sebastian, Ciel, and a bunch of others, and since I adored Madam Red, of course I jumped the band wagon. I've got a lot of things set and figured out, but I cannot, for the life of me, find a round crowned hat tutorial to make Madam's hat. (I've never made hats minus a simple top hat, so I was looking for a tutorial or something to help xD.) I did find a felting tutorial, but I don't know how I feel yet about Madam having a silky dress and a felt hat.

So does anyone have any tutorials/experience/tips/etc. on making something like Madam Red's had without bumps, tucks, pleats, etc. . . ? I want a smooth, rounded crown, that's my issue. The brim I can do since it's easy and logical, but it's basically the crown I need help with.

Also, for Madam's jacket, does anyone have a recommendation of what to use for the trim of her jacket? I wanted to use black cotton bias tape, but I have no idea how to make that weird corner applique she has on her jacket with that xD. How have others made that? Any advice/tips?

[Mehdia]

When I did my hat, I actually just bought a basic sun hat at Target that was a heavier straw and covered it. The crown of my hat had a few pleats, but the bow covered most of it and I liked the pleats in it, even though I didn't at first.

As for the jacket, I used bias tape for the trim and then the applique I just cut from some black cotton sateen, since the rest of my outfit was also cotton sateen, used a spray adhesive, and then appliqued it down with a satin stitch. I did this before I put the bias tape on. My cravat kept covering some of the applique details though.

Close up of hat and jacket: http://www.cosplay.com/photo/2590031/