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Unread 05-26-2013, 07:25 AM   #256
Kelley
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So, I think I'm wimping out on the armour and just going to do the doublet/fashion gambeson thing because I'm a lazy asshole. Or at least an asshole that is afraid of trying something new without a year's advance notice. It's not the pattern-making that worries me, that's fine, I'm just not confident I'm going to be able to shape the thermoplastics without something terrible happening.

I took some poor quality screenshots today.

I had to grab this :



Because it's honestly the most pornographic thing I've seen on the show. So beautiful. Yes, it's Joffrey, but if you know what you're looking at you know this is the good shit.

If I planned on having children I would give my firstborn to the people doing the costumes on this show.

Sansa's Purple Dress

If friend is making this I don't need the embroidery details because it will be cheated because she's not going to have time to do that and I'm not that self-sacrificing - but these give a good idea of the bodice seams.

Margaery's Blue Dress with the sort of bare midrift thing Unfortunately the hosting site seems to have shrunk the image so you can't see the pattern on the top very well any more, but there are pictures on-line if you're that neurotic.

I'm going to go through the Loras screenshots tomorrow because I can only engage in so many activities that bring me thoughts of despair at one time. At least that embroidery is with rather thick thread and pretty loose. But damn I'm going to look fabulous.

I wish there was a better shot of this costume of his that showed the fabric in more detail (I have the really large version of the image but it's not sharp). I'm thinking the little birds and vines are going to be stencilled on, maybe in white and then with a coat of iridescent something or other. The vines have a pink tint behind them, not sure if I could achieve that in opacity over a blue fabric base or if I need to dye this from the ground up.

Or I could get real fancy and have Spoonflower do the work for me which honestly sounds pretty great. I think I'll order a swatch book. If any of the fabrics would work I could go over the white parts only with dabs of something iridescent and be done with it.

/it's been a long day
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Unread 05-31-2013, 02:11 AM   #257
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I'll be doing Margaery Tyrell from Season 3 of GoT and I'm having issues with the fabric upper layout.

I've decided on this dress: http://fashionista.com/uploads/2013/...ry-Tyrell.jpg]

I found a nice fabric for the main dress online, but I can't decide if I should get a gold fabric and hand cut out every single rose and stitch/glue it down OR if I should buy a non-accurate lace pattern?

I'll be wearing this in August at earliest, but September 20th is my deadline.

Or should I wait until one of the other outfits comes out? I really like that one since it was a turning point in her character, and I love blues.
Also, how can I get away without wearing a bra, but having my boobs appear larger and more together? I'm only a b cup.

Any tips and advice are encouraged!
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Unread 05-31-2013, 12:45 PM   #258
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tarinalove View Post
I'll be doing Margaery Tyrell from Season 3 of GoT and I'm having issues with the fabric upper layout.

I've decided on this dress: http://fashionista.com/uploads/2013/...ery-Tyrell.jpg

I found a nice fabric for the main dress online, but I can't decide if I should get a gold fabric and hand cut out every single rose and stitch/glue it down OR if I should buy a non-accurate lace pattern?

I'll be wearing this in August at earliest, but September 20th is my deadline.

Or should I wait until one of the other outfits comes out? I really like that one since it was a turning point in her character, and I love blues.
Also, how can I get away without wearing a bra, but having my boobs appear larger and more together? I'm only a b cup.

Any tips and advice are encouraged!
That dress is GORGEOUS and I think it would be a joy to wear.

If it were me, I'd get a lace that was as close as I could find to that lace and just run with it. It will probably look easier and tidier than something you cut yourself, and these characters do change outfits pretty regularly, so its conceivable that she would have other similar dresses in slightly different fabric.

(This is how I justified a slightly different fabric for a Petyr Baelish costume I'm working on, lol)

If you can't find a gold lace with the right shape, you could try a white lace, and then try painting it with gold metallic acrylic paint. That should work on synthetic fabrics and also give you the shine you want. Here's a tutorials for painting lace: http://littleblackkitty.typepad.com/...al-diy-ha.html

And here's a lace that might work: http://www.fabric.com/ProductDetail....f-062d5b48a6d5

No idea on the bra thing though. It is difficult that everything Margaery wears has that open back. You could try one of those stick-on bra things, or maybe a there is a specialty bra somewhere that is both plunge and would work in the back. I dont remember what the back of her costume looks like exactly though.
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Unread 05-31-2013, 03:55 PM   #259
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@tarinalove - My first reply didn't post yet... but anyway, I forgot to add that I think that dress in the show is technically covered in embroidery, not lace. The embroidery on this show is unbelievable and it's all done by hand.

So if you want to be super authentic, and you have a lot of patience, you could do that detail with gold embroidery floss. Or I've seen people convincingly fake embroidery with puff fabric paint, it sounds cheesy but it actually can look nice. If you have a steady hand you could try that too.
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Unread 06-01-2013, 06:19 AM   #260
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They custom-weave fabric and like jancola said they do a lot of hand-embroidery. For most of the costumes on this show compromises are going to have to be made, period - unless you weave your own fabric or contract it out (and then, you're still having to make guesses as to the exact pattern).

So, what I'm saying is that I encourage you to go ahead and not worry too much about if it's 100% "screen accurate" or perfectly replicated. Like I've said before the main thing is getting the costume to "read" like it did on-screen because most fans don't remember the details and you can be quite "off" so long as it reads well and they'll believe that you look "just like" what they saw on TV !

But I also understand wanting to do it as exactly as you can - I switched which costume I'm doing because the other one had clearer pictures available so yeah, I'm that person and I totally understand if you are too. I could have done one of these costumes for under $100 and had it read well but I'm a bad person and I couldn't stop myself and I honestly don't know how I still have any friends.

I would try to get some better screenshots of that than what you can find on-line. Here's one where you can see that the shoulder part is a separate piece (which they've used at other times, too, pretty sure - they like re-using stuff).

To me, it looks like the pattern is woven rather than embroidered - but I haven't seen a really close-up shot to be absolutely sure of that.

You could hand-embroider it. But if it's woven in that would still be different.

You could do applique or reverse applique. I think reverse applique would be easier - have your base blue fabric and draw the designs on and then cut them out and apply that on top of a gold fabric - you can even add a bit of padding under the gold fabric (thus, having another layer under the gold) at the designs to make them stand out a bit more.

You could also go through Spoonflower and have them custom-print fabric for you and you could embellish that with fabric paint, embroidery, or et cetera. Personally, I would probably go that route since I don't think any of the other options would look significantly better. When you have the fabric printed you can go over the outline of the pattern strategically with a thin dark gold/green to give it more depth and maybe flick a few lines over at the side to give the impression of threads (you could also plan this into the printing itself but I think the different texture/shine would be a good thing to have).

As for the breast-lift - I think that it's all about fit. These costumes are well-fitted and are doing a lot on their own to give support ! Having the fabric be tight to your sides so that it presses the breasts in and together a bit is what needs to be done. Do you have the breast volume and consistency to get them to create cleavage like that at all ? If so, you should be able to fit the dress to do that - you can also add your own padding to the inside of the dress if you need to if the fitting necessary flattens you out too much for your liking. You can also include some boning in the dress if it would help - you would however, need to include enough interlining that the boning isn't visible from the outside (a quilted piece usually works). However, if you have your fashion fabric(s) on the outside and you use a strong canvas inside you can do a lot just by shaping your pattern correctly. Think of the garment in 3D and how it would differ from the natural body in 3D - so that the sides press in at the breasts and give enough tension under the bust to lift. You can also wear a bra in a "halter" configuration so it doesn't show and even sew it into the dress to be absolutely sure. I would, however, be wary of that idea since I feel like the look on the show is very "natural" and I wouldn't want a bra to throw off the silhouette/look (which I am guessing is your concern when you're asking about this).



Edit, also today I did a thing :



Hooray me. I think I'll end up needing to raise the neckline in the front but whatever - it actually seems to fit I'm moderately surprised that happened the first try.
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Last edited by Kelley : 06-01-2013 at 08:42 AM.
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Unread 06-01-2013, 01:28 PM   #261
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Thank you Kelly and jancola! Your advice is super helpful.

My friend suggested that I spray paint and stencil the design onto the dress, then I could always do a puff layer on top, and shade with fabric paint on the sides.

I also found two possible fabrics, one being more expensive but is silk, the other being a poly blend with little flecks of gold thread in it.
http://www.moodfabrics.com/fashion-f...-de-chine.html

Or:
http://www.fashionfabricsclub.com/p/...epe-Back-Satin


I haven't set a budget yet, since I already have my wig out of the way. But I figure this one will be about 100-200$ easily for me. I'm going to look into your boning, and inner padding ideas Kelley, I may even deconstruct a cheap but good push up bra and sew that between layers to give my boobs enough "oomph" ^.^

Lots of new learning to do this summer, and I'm really excited since Margaery is so under cosplayed!
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Unread 06-01-2013, 06:14 PM   #262
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I would be careful with spray paint, most of it is made for immobile surfaces (cars, wood) and will crack and/or wrinkle if applied to fabric (as the fabric moves and is bent to be put on, breathing, and all) - that can even happen to the most suitable paint which is the major downside to painting in general - but since this isn't going to be a well-worn t-shirt it has a better chance at remaining good-looking for longer.

Personally, I would buy a white silk and dye it in order to get a good colour on the right fabric. Silk is, thankfully, easy to dye.

The silk you linked looks like a way wrong colour and the polyester one is going to have a weird texture, not be quite the right colour, and it's polyester. You can get a 100% silk for the same price. You'll need to interline since the bodice has quite a bit of body to it, but the skirt seems to be fairly light and airy (and I'd want to see more pictures to figure out how it's layered and all).

Her fabric is really bright and vibrant and fine quality. Another downside to polyester is that it is a very "sticky" fabric to wear - it doesn't breathe and will trap in sweat and body-heat, if it's warm outside you'll feel like an oven. I'll also say that I've come to a point in my life where I can identify it on sight and the weird gross plastic shine it has - which doesn't look fancy or rich or nice. Not trying to be too much of a snob (sometimes it is the right fibre if you're looking to do something space-age or if it's very well engineered but you're not really going to find the latter in low-priced consumer goods), but I think with your budget and the prices of silk you can definitely afford it since you can get an appropriate one for $8-9/y and dye is going to be only a few dollars more.

Even with the fabric being 100% silk you might still come in under $100 for fabric, which I think is great ! Even with a double-layer skirt ! And not having to buy a wig, you'd just need some discreet (and cheap) shoes and then account for the rose jewellery piece.

Check out Dharma Trading, they have both silks to dye and dyes to do it. I'd look at the 16mm Habotai for the bodice (you'd still want some kind of internal canvas (a heavier-weight linen or cotton "duck" kind of fabric) and then the lining - you can use a lighter weight silk for the lining - that way you don't lose the benefits of the natural fibre, you can even dye it a colour that looks nice with it like a straw gold or pink !), though I'd want some better pictures of the skirt to figure that out.

I almost wonder if her bodice is made of a changeable silk where the warp and weft are different colours - but it will be hard to find that in the right colour, too (and you can't dye it yourself).

https://www.silkbaron.com/product_p/45.htm
https://www.silkbaron.com/product_p/35.htm

Neither are exactly spot-on, but pretty decent and you would only need it for the bodice. Hers definitely isn't slubbed, but those would give you a more dramatic look in the way it's hit by light that might be worth that compromise. I would stay away from crepe front silks as they're going to have a "crinkly" texture that won't allow the light to hit it nicely for what you want in this particular costume.

You might also take a look at heavier "bridal silk" type fabrics. Again, since you would probably only need a yard for the bodice it wouldn't be too big of a budget-killer if it was more expensive.

The skirt looks fairly lightweight from what I can see and I'm guessing there's at least one other layer to it ?

---

I need to edit the slope on the shoulders of my pattern, but I think I'd like to do a bit of internal padding so this is going to get weird.

I might also have to sacrifice the grace of the back-side seam in order to get more fabric on the shoulder front.
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Last edited by Kelley : 06-01-2013 at 06:34 PM.
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Unread 06-03-2013, 08:50 PM   #263
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Kelley,

Thank you so much for all of your advice. I haven't purchased anything yet, but your tips are really helping me narrow my search and ideals.
How much fabric would I need for the skirt?
3 yards?

http://25.media.tumblr.com/daeb59e9f...mebxo1_250.gif

And I was thinking 1 yard would be plenty for the bodice outside as well. I could easily get some cheap heavy fabric in my local joanns as well.

Here are more images:
http://www.company.co.uk/cm/companyu...ery-Tyrell.jpg

http://collegecandy.files.wordpress....ng?w=600&h=337

http://www.aceshowbiz.com/images/new...first-look.jpg

http://i.lv3.hbo.com/assets/images/s...22-03-1024.jpg

The reason why I was going to do the paint route is because I don't see the bodice moving TOO much (versus pants) and I typically hand wash all of my garments. Oh, now that I think of it, I may be able to pay my best friend's boyfriend to screen print the design for me onto my fabric. (He's a professional screen printer) But I am doubtful of that. :/

I'm gonna look at the silks you posted tonight. :3

Your own costume sounds mighty difficult! Good luck in your ventures<3
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Unread 06-04-2013, 02:17 AM   #264
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Her skirts are a little tricky. They go into the waist in what might be 8-10 pieces. I'd guess the bottom is maybe around 120"-ish at the hem - and all those seams work to modulate the fullness over the hips so that she doesn't end up with the kind of unregulated fullness you'd get from a circle skirt.

You could probably get that out of three yards. I would just draw it out for your measurements personally to be safe - I based my pattern on my mom's measurements so it's for a shorter person using the 45" width of the fabric as the waist-to-toe and I guessed that she has a 26" waist.

It might be easiest to draw it out based on your hip measurement and then indicate that you'll probably be rounding the pattern out from waist to upper thigh (like, "normally" you would do a bunch of trapezoids and triangles but this is all trapezoids and at the tops of them they're most likely going to curve a bit so that you don't get a whole bunch of unwanted fabric above the hips). This is something that's fairly easy to "play with" while you're making it.

It looks like the skirt might be a separate piece from the bodice. There's an underskirt as well that in the GIF, at least, looks a bit more grey and opaque (either from the colour itself or fabric weight, too). You definitely want the separate underskirt - it gives more volume than the overskirt alone can (I wouldn't be completely surprised if there were even more skirts under that, but I'd just make the two and see how it looks and evaluate from there).

If you start with the underskirt you can work most of the kinks out there by sewing and pinning in more if necessary and taking it in as you need to. You could also do a trial out of muslin if you wanted to be absolutely sure.

Screen-printing would probably hold up better than spray-paint. You can even do it yourself if you want to ! I'd just worry that taking it on and off and breathing would be enough to crack a paint that isn't meant to bend. A fabric paint would hopefully be enough to hold up to that, though. The thing about the breathing bit is that her bodice as-is is very fitted and providing bust support - and while you can have a strong inner layer that takes the brunt of it you're still going to get some pressure on the outer layer - enough I'd guess for certain paints to crack over the fibres of the fabric. Screen-printing paints and such tend to have decent elasticity if you don't push them too much you can sometimes mix an "unsuitable" paint with a fabric medium to get it to do that, too - but then you'd need an airbrush to be able to actually spray it instead of brushing - but I don't think brushing or rolling would be a bad thing !

Notice the little details - like how they've mirrored the fabric pattern pretty perfectly across both sides of the top.

Thanks ! And good luck to you, too. When you break it down into parts I think it's not really that bad.

I'm waiting impatiently for some heavy linen to restock so I can make my first fabric order. I want to start working on the shirt (it's a lighter linen, but I want to do the entire order at one time) while I figure out the details on the ungodly amount of fabric I need for the doublet. I'm hoping I'm going to be able to get it down under 15 yards, that'd be great (I switched to this one. and box pleats are all like, "you're gonna need three times as much fabric as normal and also we angled the pattern pieces to take up as much space as physically possible !")
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Unread 06-08-2013, 06:30 AM   #265
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So, to my surprise it turns out my mom wants to get the fabric for the top from Spoonflower instead of stencilling it or just ignoring it.

The pattern looks like little lions and a rose thingy or something :



I don't know. If anyone's already done a re-draw of this for printing let me know - otherwise I'll post one whenever I get it done.


Also, I am going to spam this thread with a "how to make patterns" thing, k. It's too big to fit in one post.
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Unread 06-08-2013, 06:31 AM   #266
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Spammity Spam.

I was asked about if I would make a pattern for someone, but since I'm a crap businessman I thought I could help people learn to do this on their own. I feel like if you can follow the directions in a pattern to make something, you can follow directions in order to make a pattern itself.

Alright, so I made this MS Paint guide :



It's in rows right to left.

1. This is the body block you'll make from your measurements. You can use more measurements if you have to for a certain project. For instance, for the princess seam top it would be useful for you to use an underbust measurement.

Anyway, I made the lines different colours so you can go step by step. I would use a fairly large piece of paper so you don't run out of room.

The black line is your first line.

First, you need to define a point to measure from - I would put either a marker mark or a sticker or something in the area right where your collarbones meet the sternum, that indentation right under the neck area. You'll want to remember where this is exactly and not be an inch or so off each time you take a measurement based on it !

You will also want to find where you natural waist is. I would recommend tying a piece of yarn or something like that around it so that you are able to easily find that point no matter where you are measuring down from.

So, black line. Measure from the collar spot to the waist. Draw a line that long on your paper (since there's the MS Paint thing I won't write out the orientation of the lines).

Next is the red line. This is the fullest part of the bust. This can be tricky since it often changes based on the garment worn - choose something similar to what you expect the final garment to be like.

The easiest thing to do is measure totally around the fullest part of the bust and divide by 4. This will serve you most of the time. You can also measure just around the front - around the fullest part of the bust and to the side under your arms and divide that by 2. This will make it so that the front pattern takes the breasts into account while the back will not (you'll measure just around that height on the back side to side for the back pattern piece).

In the interest of not being confusing, just do the whole thing and divide by 4 !

In order to know where you draw the line in relation to the black one you will measure from the collar spot down to the fullest part of the bust. Mark this length on the black line and draw the red one out from there.

Do this again for the orange line. The orange line is measuring your "overbust" - this is above the breasts and snug under the armpits, typically. You do the same thing - take the measure and divide by 4 - measure down from the collar spot, mark it, and then draw the overbust/4 measure out from there.

And again for the blue line at the bottom ! This is the natural waist measure. So measure around it and divide by 4 - measure down from the collar spot, mark that on the black line and draw the waist/4 measure out from that.

The shoulders are the tricky part of this. In the interest of making this less confusing I drew the lines on Margeary.



So you hold the measuring tape up to the apex of the shoulder - the pink dot - and measure down the to height of the collar spot - so the tape measure is just going straight down and you're measuring to the point where the yellow lines intersect. MARK THIS SPOT WITH SOMETHING. Write the measurement down.

Now, measure over from the collar spot (green dot) to the point where the yellow lines would cross. Draw this distance out from the top of your black line on the paper. Now, draw measure you wrote down upward from the end of that line. You can create a simple neckline by drawing a curve between these two points - the pink line on the MSPaint thing.

Okay, that was the hard part.

Now, measure from the pink spot to the point on your shoulder where you would want a seam for a sleeve - for this it doesn't matter where exactly you pick (typically it would be slightly after where the collarbone ends, on myself I'd say maybe an inch after - but you can fuss with this kind of thing later if you ever need to). Write this down.

Measure where this shoulder end point is in relation to the collar spot. It might be above it or even the same as it - it varies person to person. LIghtly draw that distance up from the top of the black line if you need to and draw it over perpendicular.

Okay, now take the measuring tape and hold it so it starts at the pink dot on your paper - hold it fixed at the point and rotate it so that the length of the shoulder measure connects with that light purple line. Looking at the drawing of lines on Margaery might help if that doesn't make sense in words. If using the measure isn't going well you could measure out a piece of yarn the length of the shoulder measure and hold it between the pink dot and where it will connect to the lavender line, you can even tape it like that.

So, once you get that in place and draw the brown shoulder line on the MSPaint model you're almost done with this stupid body block thing !!

That green line is also drawn on Margaery. It's basically drawn from the center line over to where the sleeve seam would start. So it's just across the very front of the chest. Measure that and draw that on the pattern.

Now, draw from the end of the shoulder and draw a curve that connects through the end of the green line and the orange one. This is a tricky part and one that you might end up having to re-do a few times because it's more "art" than anything.
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Last edited by Kelley : 02-28-2014 at 04:57 PM.
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Unread 06-08-2013, 06:33 AM   #267
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Your pattern might bulge out weird at the bust depending on what youre measurements are. That's okay. If you were doing the top with princess seams, you would transfer this bulge into the princess seam itself (in other patterns you might end up using darts or other devices).

Since the pattern I used as an example is very simple and blocky I'm not going to worry about that since it's not too important - you don't have a back piece to connect anything to so it doesn't matter.

Okay, so, now the rest of the pictures are showing you how I would turn this into the pattern you want and hooray this is actually even easier !

At this point I would cut out your body block and transfer it to a new piece of paper so you can save the template if you have to go back to it.

So, in the last picture on row 1 I've drawn on some red lines. Her top looks like the cross-over is all a straight seam and that it being hooked closed is what's making it looks like it's not.

So I drew a line from the point right by the neck and just drew it straight. One thing you can do is cut the pattern piece out, hold the paper up to you and just fold it over for the part that goes to the midline. You could also measure down from the bustline to wher you want the neckline to end and draw it that way - you'll have to draw past the midline and extend the pattern because of the overlap.

Since this doesn't go to the shoulders at all, I've drawn a red line as wide as I want the strap that goes down in a curve to under the armpit.

Now, if you've done the "divide by 4" measurements thing you can just use your front pattern for your back. Just copy it again and draw on the parts that are on her back. In this case it's just a piece that just barely wraps around the back, a piece at the bottom, and the back of the neck-strap.

(notice that I extended the black line up and drew a new pink neckline - the back is going to be higher than the front due to the way the human body is set up - the neck isn't in the middle, it's set forward)

(if you really wanted to make a back you'd need to make the black line go in a bit at the top like I've drawn in a purple line - but you can always ignore this and make a test run in muslin and just pinch that extra fabric in while you're wearing it)

Okay, so then you cut those pattern pieces out.

Next row down - I took the part where I drew the back of the neck strap and just taped it onto the front strap. I then took the side-back piece and rotated it and taped it to the front. It overlaps a bit, and if this had an actual back piece I'd want to transfer the curves that were gained and lost to the seam that would connect with the back piece.

At this point I'd copy it again and smooth the seams out like I did with the dark red lines.

But ! This one is really easy !

So, last row - your two pattern pieces, you are done !

I don't ever draw the seam allowance onto the actual patterns, but you can if you want to. I will just take the pattern and trace it onto the fabric - and then cut out about half an inch around the pattern (I just eyeball it) - it just depends on what you're comfortable with.

You'd want to make this out of muslin and check fit. You might want to make the bust and under-bust snugger than your measurements for "support". You can cut the little back piece on the fold of fabric or make a copy of it and tape them together. Alternatively, you could leave that seam in and perhaps slant it to add a point to make it hug you more.

Another thing you might do is make the bodice go past your waistline. You could also make the top come to a point in the front. I think her overskirt is just tied on, not sewn to the top - so extending it slightly would mean you could tie it over and not be chafing/having skin peek out. If you're not sure how to do this, I can draw you more pictures.
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Unread 06-13-2013, 01:51 AM   #268
MaiSheri
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Threw together a quick wig and makeup test for Ygritte tonight, because I could LOL. I love the character, but I doubt that I will get around to actually making the costume ever. Materials, construction, and weathering are all a mystery to me on those wildling outfits and I don't need to be adding another costume to my to-do list!

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Unread 06-13-2013, 02:23 AM   #269
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But you should totally do it because even just that looks pretty great and recalls the character/reads well ! D:

Weathering is fun and awesome (still mildly annoyed I don't get to hardcore weather anything, myself) and the costumer for the show totally admits to buying things like animal bones off eBay for their costumes (although they made copies, but since you'd only be doing one costume it wouldn't be entirely necessary - unless you wanted to save money and make, say, cheap clay replicas).

I haven't taken an in-depth look at their costumes, but due to the realism I'd imagine they're not really that hard - probably very simple shapes and construction and the weathering and bones are where you get "detail".
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Unread 06-13-2013, 10:37 AM   #270
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I haven't done any actual research yet, so I'm sure I could find help/advice, but it's strangely intimidating since the wildling clothes look a lot like just a mass of fur/skins with some belts. I like being able to see seams, fabric textures, etc. I almost feel like it's so simple that I don't know where to start. (but as much as I want to do Ygritte, my costume schedule and materials-budget is already full, so I probably won't get around to much of anything until season 4 is out anyways)
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