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Unread 06-07-2012, 06:45 PM   #91
GlassCannon
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Oh awesome, I was hoping someone would tackle Shae's (or Ros's) style of dress! I'm working on the similar one that Daenerys wears in the first episode, fabric's in the dryer right now actually, hehe.

I didn't have any luck looking for other people talking about this style of dress, anywhere, no matter what search terms I used. I've taken to calling it the King's Landing Maxi Dress, since tons and tons of women -- handmaidens, whores, peasants, little girls, everyone but nobility -- in King's landing wear the same style. Once I started looking for it in the background of King's Landing shots, I saw it everywhere. Some have an embroidered panel in the front like Shae's and Ros's do, some are plain, some use more fabric and have more drape in the back, some use very little fabric. Most were in pastels or earth tones.

I think the construction should be really really simple, and if it comes together the way I think it will, I'm planning on putting together a tutorial for this style, since I think it could be one of the easiest options for "I want to do a Game of Thrones costume but I can barely sew" cosplayers (as well as people who just like the style, of course!).

After looking at every screenshot I could grab (as far as I know, none of these dresses have been on display anywhere?), I think it's basically what I've seen called a pillow-case-dress (ie, made from a pillowcase, for toddlers) with extra fabric at the sides. McCall's pattern 6115 is similar -- just add maybe a yard of fabric under each arm, with the casings/gathering at center front and center back, and you should get a similar drape to what we've seen on the show.

Every time I've spotted this dress style, it's always worn with a belt (as in your picture of Shae, Moofingham) or with a heavy metal ring at the low back. Either of these would work to hold the fabric tight against one's sides, and prevent wardrobe malfunctions. In Shae's first King's Landing scene (where she's talking about the smell), you can see that she's also wearing a gathered (draw-string waist?) skirt under her dress, to further prevent wardrobe malfunctions. Ros doesn't seem to wear anything under hers, but hey, that's Ros, hehe.
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Unread 06-07-2012, 07:18 PM   #92
Moofingham
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King's Landing Maxi Dress. Love it.

I wished it had been on display at the Toronto game of thrones, or that costume designers would just take HQ pics of their stuff so we could see XD; Inquiring costumers need to know these things.

I just watched some clips on Youtube, and yes, she does wear it two different ways. I didn't realize how open it was in the back, since she had her cape thing covering it - which I assume is just attached to the the cord through the casing on her neck. Her hair was in the way. I can picture how to do the top part, but connecting that to the skirt and how it would stay with the belt, I can't seem to picture. That pattern looks like the right shaping, better than Kwik sew 6119, which I found earlier.

I feel like this is one of those times where a drapery panel is going to be butchered for the sake of art...
I'd love to know how your trial at it goes!
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Unread 06-07-2012, 07:28 PM   #93
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Best as I can tell, the back is exactly the same as the front (part of what makes this dress so simple), minus the embroidery. If you laid it out flat, it'd be a giant rectangle with casings at center front and center back, gathering about half the fabric, with the other half ungathered on the sides. The cape-looking-thing is actually just the back of the dress, gathered just the same as the front. There's no connecting it to the skirt, since the dress is all one piece, gathered at the top and then falling straight to the floor.

So if you imagine it as a big 4 yard wide rectangle sewed into a tube, with one yard gathered at the front, then a yard ungathered at the side, a yard gathered in the back, and a yard ungathered on the other side. Identical front and back (other than embroidery). Worn as-is, those huge sides would gape open, and not really cover any of the bits we generally try to cover, lol. But when Shae wears a belt, it goes over the front gathered panel, against her skin at the sides, and then under the back gathered panel, which then looks a bit cape-like. The belt is tight so it holds the fabric tight at the sides, but lets it billow out in the back.

The metal ring works a bit similarly, just thread it over the back gathered part before you tie the shoulder straps/drawstrings. The metal ring will hang as low as the fabric will stretch, and so pull the fabric tight into the sides of the wearer. Same dress, different looks by switching to belt or ring. Does that make sense? I can see it all in my head, not sure if I'm describing it well or not, hehe.
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Unread 06-07-2012, 07:40 PM   #94
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Oh, I see what you mean! I was picturing it as a one sided top and skirt somehow mushed together rather than a tube. That makes more sense. So it's more about how to tie it down to the body rather than complex panels and gores.

I'm guessing the actually tie for the gathered part is somewhere are the back, since I don't see it along the sides at all. Maybe there is a break in the casing at the centre back and it's just hidden on the inside. The gathers look flexible and not fixed down in the front either. How tightly it's pulled seem to vary by episode. Hmm..
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Unread 06-07-2012, 07:51 PM   #95
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Yeah, so I think we're talking more drawstring than gathered-and-sewn-down, if that makes sense. You might want to take a look at Daenerys's (in s1e1) and Ros's (in s1e10) for reference as well. In that first scene with Daenerys, Viserys sweeps her hair back and unties the drawstring, and I think it's by her right shoulder-blade, so in back just at the edge of the casing. You can see the thin strings hanging down in back before he unties it too (the thin ones, not the thick decorative ones that Daenerys's has but Shae's doesn't). In Ros's scene with Maester Luwin, she puts the dress back on and I think ties the neck in back. So it might be right at the edge of the casing, or a break at center back like you said. Either way the drawstrings could be tucked inside the dress pretty easily. But yeah, then it becomes an issue of how to keep it from gaping, rather than any complex patterning or sewing.
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Unread 06-07-2012, 07:53 PM   #96
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Btw, in case my quick replies didn't tip you off, I am so excited to see someone else working on this style! I haven't had anyone to talk with about this, hehe.
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Abaddon - As Time Goes By dress (Supernatural) - 90%
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Unread 06-07-2012, 08:14 PM   #97
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GlassCannon View Post
Btw, in case my quick replies didn't tip you off, I am so excited to see someone else working on this style! I haven't had anyone to talk with about this, hehe.
^_^ It''s fun have people to work with on things like this. More people means more ideas and encouragement. Plus, it helps to have people know at least some part of what you're talking about. I know when I make random costuming construction comments to people like my coworkers, I just get blank looks and no help other than: "Why?"

Hm, no luck at getting those scenes. Ah, well. We have a start point at least. I plan on buying the DVDs when I can get them at the good prince, and will probably spend the time checking for costumes. I'd probably hide the casing at the back, either inserting a small slit in the back panel, or just in the casing itself.... could place the slit on the inside and it would hide it completely...add a small hook and eye to ensure it wouldn't come apart. That would put the pressure on the clasp and not on the tie, less the material used for ties splits and goes 18A on us.

Maybe to keep the gathers in place, at the neck, we could use those...I want to call them choke beads. That is not the name, but those things that are usiing on the ends of drawstrings on the hoods of raincoats. You squeeze them in to move them and when you release them they stay in places? Could always get some small ones and paint them a matching or decorative colour, as if they were really resin or glass beads. Place them on the ends of the fabric to be gathered and they would prevent the fabric from shifting while wearing, but not be permenantly tacked into place.

Shae has an advantage on me at least with keeping it in place, seeing as she is a great deal flatter in the chest than I. I forsee carpet tape or a skin tone bodysuit in my future with a dress like this...
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Unread 06-08-2012, 08:19 AM   #98
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Jon Snow is complete! At a con right now and about to get changed; I'll post pictures as I find them!
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Unread 06-08-2012, 01:25 PM   #99
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@Moofingham -- Oh, the choke-bead-type-things (no idea what they're called either, hehe) is a good idea, especially if you could find some nice looking ones, maybe online (the only ones I've seen at say JoAnn's are ugly black plastic, but as you say could be painted). Hmm, I'll see how my fabric wants to behave once I have the drawstring in, if it needs extra coaxing to stay in place. I'm hoping to pick up thread and get started on the dress today or this weekend.

@Aces -- Can't wait to see your Jon Snow!
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Unread 06-08-2012, 08:34 PM   #100
Moofingham
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@Aces - You know nothing, Jon Snow. I mean, awesome! Have fun!

@GlassCannon - *shakes fist in general direction* This dress is consuming my thought process! Seriously, I'm was at work and during a lull I'm working out approximate yardages of material I would need based on width of fabric.

What I'm thinking, if we are using the 4 yard theory, or rather in my case, metre theory: To allow room for hem, measure from neck to floor and add a bit. Ergo, fabric with 150cm/60" width would be ideal. Cut at 3.5-4m. If fabric is only at 115cm/45inch, to allow for floor length hem, I would need approximately 5.25m of material.
Based on Shae's pic, the insert fabric stripe would likely be no more than a half metre of fabric, though purchasing three quarters of a metre would be best. Insert panel at raw cut edges, tube is created with only two seams at that contrast point. Also, by the looks of it, the casing looks like it's on the outside of the dress rather than the inside by the way, the material is coming out from behind it. Unless it's seperate piece altogether stitched above it, though I don't think it is...

Plus, I discovered a belt of mine that might work for this, hopefully, the extra fabric will cause it to tighten a smidgen. And, I also have savaged wooden rings that were forner curtain rod hooks, I could try and do the ring method with.

I noticed on Dany's dress, it looks like there were knots in the cording at the gather points, so that might also work.

Oh, and a possible working for anti 18A oneself. A bandero top could be made to go over a strapless bra, made of the contrast material and elastic so it looks like it's part of the outfit rather than an out of place body suit,.

....my head feels less full now.
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Cosplay Plan of Attack:

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All creative power diverted to FanExpo Artist's Alley table! Yay! Accessories and such!

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Unread 06-08-2012, 11:45 PM   #101
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LOL, I am so with you on this dress consuming my thought process. It's so simple, yet draped so interestingly that it's the perfect little puzzle to muse over. I've had to make myself stop talking about it to my husband, as I've long since exhausted his interest in the subject -- and he'll be costuming as Ser Jorah right along side my Dany, lol.

I had the exact same thought process on the amount of fabric, 4 to 4.5 yards, including the embroidery panel, at a width wide enough to stretch from collar bone to the floor (could potentially even use the selvage edge as a hem?). But that' requires at least 52" wide fabric, even for someone as short as I am (5'2"). That narrows the possible fabric choices a bit, but still plenty to choose from. And you're right, having just the two seams on either side of the embroidery panel, no other seams, would make for a really nice look.

The problem that I ran into with Dany's version is that it appears to be made out of crinkle cotton gauze, whereas Shae's and Ros's seem to be a more silk-like fabric. I managed to find a 52" wide crinkle cotton gauze, in lavender even (here, for posterity), but ran into two problems. First, the gauze is a bit too sheer for my liking, so needs another layer under it, of gauze or something else. And second, the crinkles run parallel to the selvage edge rather than perpendicular like I'd hoped, so if I used the selvage edge as a hem, the crinkles would go around me rather than up and down. So mine is going to end up having four seams, actually, but I think I'll be able to hide them in the edge of the gathers pretty easily.

But, yes, in theory, if you can find a drapey fabric that's 52"+ wide, without any nap issues like I ran into with the crinkle cotton gauze, it could be a 1-2 seam, 2 casing dress. Couple simple measurements, couple straight seams, done in an afternoon. Even with the extra seams and lining in mine, I don't expect it to take me very long (and now that I've finally gone out and bought thread, I can put that theory to the test ;D ).

Oh, and I'm planning on doing a little underthing (small clothes? ) too. I'm on the excessively busty side, so it'll hang a bit differently on me than it does on the actresses, but that's fine, lol. The upside is that because of the bust, I've been making my own swimsuits for a few years now. My plan is to make basically a bikini top with straps that crisscross in back (not a halter) out of the same fabric and using the same cording for the ties. That'll give me some support, but from the back I don't think you'll be able to tell what cords go where, and the drape (and my wig) should cover most of it anyway. Bandero top could work really well too. And I have to admit I've given some thought to what I'd have to wear under this to be able to wear it as just an every day dress, lol.
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Unread 06-09-2012, 05:00 PM   #102
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Possible mission success. Got 4m of an olive green "vintage silk", which is polyester but has a sort of textured appearance, and has a lovely drape to it, and seems thin enough that it will gather okay. Plus, it was 60" width, so I might be able to do the two seam panel, if the sheen is okay. Got an insert of an off-white gauzy material with golden butterfly lineart, which will bring out the gold of the belt I might be able to use. All theoretical, but that's the exciting part!

Also ended up 3.5m of a lovely slate blue drapery material. No idea what for but I liked it.
So, I have to check tonight about the sheen direction, and what I could use for lacing....oh, I do have that gold cording belt I used for white Mage.....

That bikini top style would work great for yours. I looked again at dany's dress, and you're right at all the straps.

Ooh, this is exciting!

Edit: checked the sheen. Works perfectly either way, so yay two seam dress! Changed mind about the insert contrast though, doesnt have enough ummpf to it. But, the material will make a lovely set of scarves. Back to the drawing board for the insert.
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Cosplay Plan of Attack:

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All creative power diverted to FanExpo Artist's Alley table! Yay! Accessories and such!

Costume Con 32 was AMAZING!!!!

Last edited by Moofingham : 06-09-2012 at 05:58 PM.
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Unread 06-09-2012, 05:12 PM   #103
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Started working on a Talisa Maegyr costume. Still trying to figure out how to do the blood and dirt on her apron and skin. Searching tutorials, and I'll ask for help at the local theater supply store. Start experimenting with muslin and getting the basic design down. Bought swatches, I swear there are times where her dress looks blueish other times it looks greenish.

Chatting with a friend who is also a Game of Thrones fan, and she offered to sell me horsehair (her buyer backed out of the deal) for a very reasonable price. Thinking of going as a random Dothraki in Dani's Khalasar.
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Unread 06-11-2012, 10:56 AM   #104
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I can't wait to see your dresses!! You put so much more thought into it than me.... I just planned to pin the chord to my dressform then drape the fabric over it, figuring it out as I go XDD

makotohanabi- Can't wait to see your Talisa!!! I almost wanna do the costume JUST for the bloody arms... that'll look awesome!!
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Unread 06-11-2012, 10:42 PM   #105
Moofingham
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DaniiChan View Post
I can't wait to see your dresses!! You put so much more thought into it than me.... I just planned to pin the chord to my dressform then drape the fabric over it, figuring it out as I go XDD

makotohanabi- Can't wait to see your Talisa!!! I almost wanna do the costume JUST for the bloody arms... that'll look awesome!!
LOL Sometimes in the end that's the best way to do it! I have a small collection of bustles that acquired their gathers and drapes exactly by rigging up the dress form...and before the dress form, my mother... And attacking the material with pins at pleasing intervals.

Got new fabric for the embroidered insert. It's drapery, thicker than the faux silk, but the colour matches well. I'm going to use the wrong side of the material, though, because I like the embossing. Plus I have (way more than, buy 1m get 2m free) enough to make some sort of bra/bandero/princess seamed whatever to go under it...which might require a pattern.
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Cosplay Plan of Attack:

Umm.... nothing at the moment is being worked on.
All creative power diverted to FanExpo Artist's Alley table! Yay! Accessories and such!

Costume Con 32 was AMAZING!!!!
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