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Unread 10-08-2012, 05:30 PM   #1
Apple Adams
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For Men: Crossplay Makeup (MORE is more!)

Apologies if I'm being a little forward posting this so shortly after I've joined. But I know it was super hard for me starting in crossplay without someone giving me a little push in the right direction. That being said, I figured I'd lend my experience in answering one of the most difficult questions when it comes to boys crossplaying as girls: the makeup. It's a lot of work, but when done correctly the illusion is flawless!

WHAT YOU WILL NEED:
*Facial Scrub
*Moisturizer
*Glue Stick
*Skintone Concealer
*Skintone Foundation
*Concealer (Lighter than Skintone)
*Concealer (Darker than Skintone)
*Makeup Sponges (for Foundation)
*Makeup Brushes (for Concealer)


1) Scrub and moisturize your face. This is a must for everyone, male or female. Makeup can get a little harsh on the skin, so you'll want to protect it. Besides, oils can creep up to the surface pretty quickly, and no one wants to look unintentionally shiny.

2) Glue down your eyebrows. It's a common trick when you're a gender illusionist to hide your original eyebrows and draw on sleek, higher, more feminine brows. Grab a rubbing alcohol and dab it over your eyebrows to get rid of the extra oils, then take a standard glue stick and flatten them down, going from the inside out. Then grab a concealer and powder over it. Then glue again, and powder. Repeat it a few more times, and let it set for a few minutes.

3) Make your face a blank canvas. Men have notoriously broad features, so it's important to neutralize them by first starting with a completely blank surface. That way, you can draw on all the lady features later. :P Take a liquid foundation and cover your entire face (nose, eyes, cheeks, chin, eyebrows... everything but your lips). When you look in the mirror, your face should look completely blank... and a little bit terrifying. This is good.

4) Time to contour. This part gets a little complicated, and there's a number of Youtube tutorials that can help with this. I personally recommend Misty Eyez. She's an established drag queen, and I learned a lot of the basics from her (a lot of which I've toned down for cosplay. I'm going for anime/video game character, not explicitly drag ). Basically, the whole point of contouring is giving the illusion that your face is shaped like a woman's. Your going to do so by taking a concealer two or three shades darker than your foundation and painting your strong features in a way that your jaw, forehead, and nose appear less straight and squared and more rounded and feminine. Make sure you blend it into the foundation!

5) And now we highlight! This is going in the opposite direction of contouring. You're going to now take a concealer that's a few shades lighter than your foundation. Using round brush strokes, you're going to paint what is know as your T-Zone. Doing this will highlight these areas, and make your face stand out while also giving it that girlish look. Once again, make sure to blend into the foundation!

That'll do it for it the basic layer of your face! In a little bit I'll post how to do the eyes and lips. I know it's a little difficult to really grasp the instructions when you're not looking at them. I'll get onto making a video to help my fellow crossplay brethren within the next week or so. Until then, here's the tutorials I started out with! As I said, Misty is a drag queen. So you can choose to either tone it down or play it up as you see fit for the character.

Highlighting Tutorial!
Shadowing/Contouring Tutorial!
Blending Tutorial!

That's all for now, hope it helps!

Last edited by Apple Adams : 10-14-2012 at 01:04 AM. Reason: Changed the wording a bit and added a list of tools.
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Unread 10-09-2012, 03:52 PM   #2
Apple Adams
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Okay, folks! Meant to post part two last night, but I got a little sidetracked (which may or may not be a recurring pattern in my life ). So here it is, the part of your makeup that'll always stand out the most and really sell the illusion: the eyes!

WHAT YOU WILL NEED:
*Eyeshadow (Two of the same color--one lighter shade, one darker--and one pure white)
*Eyebrow pencil (Preferably matching the color of your wig)


1) Draw on the eyebrows. This can be one of the toughest parts about doing your makeup, if only because it can be a real chore to make your eyebrows even. A lot of drug stores offer eyebrow stencils in their cosmetics section, and I can NOT stress enough how much these help when you're just starting out. I would recommend when using the stencils, take your white eye shadow and use that to draw on the initial shape of the brows. That way, if you make a mistake or they're too crooked, you can easily wipe it away or just powder over it. Once you've gotten a shape that you're content with, fill the white in with the eyebrow pencil matching your wig color. It's important to keep in mind that when you're drawing on the eyebrows, you want them to arch a little higher than your actual eyebrows. The bit of an arch really helps distinguish a male character from a female character.

2) Highlighting the eye. We're going to break this process down a little, because it's much easier when you focus on one task at a time. On the brow bone, just beneath where your drawn on eyebrow arches, you're going to fill in the space with white eye shadow and then blend it in. This step helps highlight the area, and draws attention away from your natural brow line. You're also going to brush the white eye shadow on the inner corner of your eye, a little bit above and below the tear duct. Again, this helps highlight the eyes.

3) Using the lighter shade. This part is actually pretty easy, especially if you watched a friend or family member do it themselves. You're going to take the basic shade of eye shadow you want to use and apply it on the entire lid. Make sure, as always, that you blend it out. Blending helps the makeup look a little more natural.

4) Using the darker shade. And this part can be a little tricky if you're not familiar with it. Basically, starting from the inner portion of the eye, you're going to trace the area underneath your brow bone from just above the tear duct to the other corner of your eye in an arch.

Here's a little diagram of what it should look like, with the number of the step corresponding to the makeup. Again, once I get an opportunity this or next week, I'll get together a video showing you all these steps at once. n_n

Finally, a general tip: Fake eyelashes help tremendously. I know a lot of guys have long, natural lashes. But trust me, you're portraying a fictional character. No matter how long and thick your actual lashes are, her lashes are much more exaggerated. A lot of drug stores carry them, and it's especially easy (and cheap!) to buy them around Halloween time.

That's all for now! Next time: Lips!

Last edited by Apple Adams : 10-14-2012 at 01:10 AM.
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Unread 10-10-2012, 12:18 PM   #3
Apple Adams
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Back for more! This should be the last lengthy reply that I post in regards to this topic. I'll continue to post more tips as I come up with them, or as questions are asked. Feel free to ask if you're confused about something, I'm more than willing to clarify or help steer ya in the right direction.

Now then, onto the lips! The lips are probably going to be one of the easiest steps you'll have to do, if only because all you really have to do is outline, color, and shade. Anyone with even a little drawing experience should be okay with step. If not, just keep practicing!

WHAT YOU WILL NEED:
*Lipstick
*Lipgloss
*Lipliner (At Least One Shade Darker Than Lipstick)
*White Eye Shadow (Optional)


1) Lining your lips. To get started, you're going to want to tighten and flatten your lips as much as possible. The way you approach this step depends on what type of look you're going for. If you have naturally thick, full lips, just line the outline of your lips. If you have thin lips, or want to appear as if you have fuller lips (which is never a bad idea in gender illusion), you'll want to take the liner and, following the basic shape of your lip, draw a larger, exaggerated outline around your lips. If you don't have a steady hand, it might take a few tries. No worries there, just wipe it off, reapply some foundation, and try again.

2) Filling in your lips. Easiest part so far! You now have an outline, so just fill it in with the lipstick. After that, lightly rub your lips together to help smooth it out and spread it around.

3) Creating a pout (optional). This is just for fun, and it's usually a nifty look if you have a character who is either sad or very cute. Take your white shadow (the white highlighting shadow from the eye tutorial) and, with your lower lip extended, carefully paint and blend a spot on the inner-center portion of the lip. Now stand back from the mirror. The white shadow creates another highlight, giving your lips the appearance of a shine and tends to draw the eye to your lower lip.

4) Break out the liner again! This time, you're going to take the liner and, starting from the outline and working your way in just a bit, lightly begin shading. The shading should become lighter as you work your way to the inside of your lip, creating a nice blend effect. This gives your lips a more natural appearance, rather than looking like you just drew a great big line on yourself.

5) Sealing it with gloss. Lip gloss is pretty cool, in that it seals your lipstick and gives off the appearance of healthy, shiny lips. I tend to use transparent lip gloss, but you can choose to use whatever you prefer. Pinker lip glosses give off more of a pure, sweet appearance, while red glosses tend to give more of a darker, seductive look.

That's going to be all for now, but I'm sure I'll come up with more interesting tidbits later. Good luck, fellow crossplayers!

Last edited by Apple Adams : 10-14-2012 at 01:07 AM.
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Unread 10-14-2012, 01:52 AM   #4
Eternalanime
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Oh wow this going to help me a lot, I plan to start crossplaying and I was wondering how to do the makeup. This looks like a great list to work off of. Just gotta get the supplies I guess.
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Unread 10-15-2012, 06:12 AM   #5
Apple Adams
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I'm glad you could take something from it! I noticed there's not a lot of information on the net regarding crossplay makeup for men. You'd think there would be more, what with the popularity of it!

Honestly, I recommend buying all of your supplies at a drug store or Wal Mart first. If only because you most likely will need practice (I definitely did), and it would be a shame to waste high quality, expensive makeup.
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Unread 10-16-2012, 01:08 AM   #6
Eternalanime
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Agreed and I'm gonna practice as much as I can. Crossplaying is gonna be so much fun
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Unread 10-16-2012, 08:52 AM   #7
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I have a tip.

To prevent the dreaded "five o'clock shadow" from coming out, use pink lipstick before putting on your foundation.
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Unread 10-16-2012, 08:50 PM   #8
Apple Adams
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kojirojames2004 View Post
I have a tip.

To prevent the dreaded "five o'clock shadow" from coming out, use pink lipstick before putting on your foundation.
Ooh, I'll have to give that a shot! I've always known about using orange concealer, but I've never heard the pink lipstick trick.
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Unread 10-17-2012, 01:48 AM   #9
Eternalanime
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That sounds interesting gotta get practicing
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Unread 10-21-2012, 12:34 PM   #10
ArcaneSpringbrd
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Are there any suggestions of doing anything different regarding contouring and highlighting if you're overweight and have a more pudgy face? Or is having a round face just making things a bit easier for me in that aspect?
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Unread 10-23-2012, 05:39 PM   #11
Apple Adams
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Honestly, having a rounder face definitely benefits you. It makes contouring a lot easier, because you won't be spending so much time rounding out your jawline. If you do want to achieve a slightly less round appearance however, bring your contour lines up rather than rounding them out. When you blend it all in, it'll give the appearance of a slimmer, longer face.
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Unread 10-24-2012, 08:54 AM   #12
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My first crossplay was a success thanks to this guide! Thank you!
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Unread 10-31-2012, 02:26 AM   #13
MagicalStar
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Out of curiosity, is it really necessary to have a foundation brush? If so, what kind of brush should be used/would you reccomend?
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Unread 10-31-2012, 02:38 AM   #14
Apple Adams
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Honestly, if you're using a liquid foundation you don't have to use a brush. I'd recommend using a makeup sponge or wedge to apply that. I myself just use my fingers. It makes it easier to blend, and you're able to get into much smaller, detailed areas with your fingertips.
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Last edited by Apple Adams : 10-31-2012 at 11:52 AM.
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