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Unread 11-13-2012, 01:37 AM   #1
Rexluna
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Master draper/pattern-makers, I need held with this impossible pattern

I've spent months trying to figure out this costume's pattern. I've reached the limit of my brain and I just cannot figure it out.

The costume:
One
Two
Three
Four

It's the Daedric Prince of Thieves, Nocturnal from Skyrim if you're wondering.

Now, every time I try to make a pattern for this, it ends up looking more like Morrigan from Dragon Age, which isn't right. Also, with my Morrigan cosplay, that cowl thing was pretty much a tube, so it had all this air in it giving it a nice round, full shape. That isn't going to work with Nocturnal. What I have tried comes out, like I said, like Morrigan, but also kinda pointy. Granted, I'll be using a nice satin instead of muslin, like I'm practicing with. But still, I don't think that will fix the problem.

My biggest issue is the part below the waist...the only way I can think of to achieve that look is some kind of gather at the very edge, since I can cover it with the trim. But I haven't had the chance to try it yet to see if that would make any sense...everything so far has just come out too bulky and you can's see the shape of my waist...which looks very not flattering.

Any suggestions? I'm going crazy here and I'd hate to have to drop this or alter the costume to look wrong (or bad on me) just to get it done. Please help
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Unread 11-13-2012, 02:28 AM   #2
Evil Bishounen
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Are you talking about that draped fullness in front of her waist and crotch?

That's a cowl effect. ("Cowl" in pattern-making means something totally different from when people often refer to a "cowl" as a garment.) It's usually done on necklines, but in this case, it's much, much lower. You slash-and-spread the pattern to add fullness, and then cut the final piece on the bias so that it drapes.

This tutorial describes the process:
http://poldapop.blogspot.com/2012/04...cowl-neck.html

You can adapt this to the waist area of your costume. The ripply drape look will continue more subtly into the hanging flap.
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Unread 11-13-2012, 01:02 PM   #3
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I did a rough version of that for the top part, but I don't understand how I can make it work for the lower portion. Unless I have the top and bottom be top separate pieces?
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Unread 11-13-2012, 06:57 PM   #4
Evil Bishounen
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You may or may not have tried it this way, but...

First, create the pattern as though the cowling is not there. Make it totally flat in front of the belly/crotch, scoop out the front opening like you want it to look, and get it fitted properly. Create a finalized front panel, with center front on the fold.

Once that's done, then you slash and spread the pattern at the bottom of your naked-time cut-out to add in the extra fullness for the cowling effect. You may have to experiment with different levels of extra fullness until you get the drape you want.

Now, to get the really fitted look over the bosom, you'll have to add in bust darts or a curved horizontal seam under each breast. But, splitting the pattern like this isn't necessary to get the cowl drape; it's purely for fit purposes. (You didn't mention if you were going for the loose artwork look or the plastic skin-but-really-clothes texture of the game model, but I'm assuming you want to be safe instead of relying on pasties and double-sided tape...)
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Unread 11-13-2012, 08:16 PM   #5
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One was blank and four isn't actually a link.

After careful inspection it appears that part of the cowling at the waist is created by the fabric being pulled up over the belt. I agree with EB, bias cutting in there somewhere is going to get you the draping you desire. I know bias cutting & sewing is really scary the first time, but once you've done it it'll make all kinds of lights go on in your head. Here is some bias & drape inspiration (including the original Blonde Bombshell Jean Harlow) http://nabbysvintagelife.blogspot.com/
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Unread 11-13-2012, 08:52 PM   #6
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It's so much the bias cutting that scares me...it's more of the fact that it will use so much more fabric. And fabric = money. That and going through so many drafts of a pattern can be mentally exhausting. I'll give it a try. Hopefully I have enough muslin to get the final pattern.
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Unread 11-14-2012, 12:13 AM   #7
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Oi. I feel like an idiot. I get the concept but trying to adapt it to this crazy shape is driving me crazy.

I found a picture of a cowl skirt (as apparently it is called) and it had a similar shape. But the problem is, it's on the side. I think it's achieved with a seam that this dress does not allow for. I found this tutorial. I also have a pattern for a shirt that has a similar look that is created with pleats. Which technically could work because the hood and...whatever is draping over her shoulders would cover the pleats.

But I don't know. I'm trying to imagine the shape, all stretched out. But I can't wrap my head around it. This is the non-cowled shape I came up with.

I feel like the answer is right at the edge of my brain, but I can't quite figure it out yet. I think what might help a little is attempting to make the front in two parts, but I still have to figure that out too.
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Unread 11-14-2012, 12:58 AM   #8
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I made a very rough sketch that hopefully gives you more of an idea. There's an approximation of what the front would look like without any cowling. Those curved lines highlighted in purple are slash lines. You would cut along those lines, from the center front toward the outside, but do not cut all the way through. You need to leave a little hinge there so you can swing the pieces away from one another, kinda like how I sketched.

Again, this is very rough and not to scale. You will probably need many more slash lines than this to get a lot of fullness. And what I'm suggesting is also my best guess - you need to test it to make sure I'm right. 8B Don't be afraid to move the slash lines up or down if need be, but don't raise them above the bottom of the breast because everything needs to be flat above that point.

When you swing the pattern pieces to spread them, the center front of the bottom flap will remain the center front. You'd then continue it straight up, like on the tutorials about doing a neck cowl.

You will need to experiment with this to figure out how far you need to spread the slash lines, and also figure out whether you need to raise the bottom of your front cut-out so that your crotch remains appropriately covered.
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Unread 11-14-2012, 01:48 AM   #9
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Thank you! I'm going to give this a try. I get it now..haha!
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Unread 11-14-2012, 06:07 AM   #10
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Evil Bishounen knows their shit.
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