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Unread 11-22-2012, 05:31 AM   #1
Zeixble
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Smile Mod Podge, Model Magic, Craft Foam Questions

Mod Podge:

1. Can be sanded "normally" or does it need to be "wet sanded"?
2. How many layers of mod podge before sanding?
3. Do I have to put mod podge over styrofoam (the really annoying white kind, not insulation) before sanding?
4. Usual drying time?

Model Magic

1. Drying time for thicker layers (say.. half an inch)?
2. I've seen people gently sand MM, but will it work fine if I use mod podge over MM before sanding?
3. Once dried, what glue can I use to stick MM to fabric/clothes? Fabric glue?
4. How do I stick MM to dried MM? Will the MM still stick to the already-dried-MM since it's still squishy? (I don't know how to explain that LOL)
5. How do I stop it from cracking even after I patched the cracks?

Craft Foam:

1. Heating craft foam with? (Heat gun? Oven? Hair dryer?)

ETC:

1. Is Apoxie Sculpt a better option?


Notes:

Cheaply done props = cheap stuff
Can't do wood and all that metal/really awesome alternatives
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Unread 11-22-2012, 08:26 AM   #2
Penlowe
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Mod Podge
Mod Podge is water based. I've never sanded Mod Podge but I know from other experience with it that getting it wet after it has dried will result in it becoming gummy and nasty.
Drying time depends greatly on the temperature and relative humidity in your exact location. Summer in Arizona it could be ready to go in a couple hours, rain forests of south America it could stay tacky for months.

Mod Podge was designed to be a kid-friendly product similar to acrylic medium. Acrylic medium is actually polymer based, therefore once dry cannot be thinned with water. The major difference is that acrylic medium, once dry, stays dry. It dries faster, and because of it's slightly different chemical make up, lasts a lot longer as a surface finish than mp. Just don't eat it. It has no stinky fumes either.

Model Magic
All wet clays shrink some when drying, from natural out of the ground stuff to paper or cotton or flour based. How much depends of the type, natural clay shrinks only .5-1%, paper based shrink the most at something like 10-12%- this is why they crack. Knowing it will shrink is half the battle, because when you sculpt you can create your shapes with shrinkage in mind. Don't make them too thick, outward curves should be built up taller than you want the final piece to be to allow for cracking & sanding.

Craft Foam
Only recently started playing with this myself. I have a heat gun and it was pleasantly easy to heat & form, but wear gloves (no burns from the foam, but touched my gun a couple times). I tried large area heating with my iron (hovering, NO DIRECT contact!) and it was okay but not great. I think trying to use an oven as the heat source is like trying to put a push pin in your wall with a sledgehammer, it'll only result in a mess, and possibly injury.
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Unread 11-23-2012, 06:13 AM   #3
Zeixble
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I picked the right time to experiment with mod podge then (it's summer here lol)

Also, which heat gun are you using? Are there "features" that I should be looking at? :/
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Unread 11-23-2012, 04:38 PM   #4
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My heat gun is more than five years old and the label is gone, I'm sure they figured out there shouldn't be metal bits to heat up right on the face of them by now, but you never know.
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Unread 11-23-2012, 05:13 PM   #5
Evil Bishounen
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Mod Podge:

DO NOT try to sand it wet. It can be sanded when dry, but you won't have a nice-looking surface. The only time I'd sand it is if I was going to repaint something anyway.

Don't try to use Mod Podge as a top-coat sealer or varnish. It remains kinda tacky, and if it gets wet the problem will be worse. I only use Mod Podge to seal craft foam before applying paint. I use an acrylic varnish to finish my pieces off.

I live in Southern California and Mod Podge usually dries fairly quickly for me, within an hour or two.

Model Magic

I would recommend ditching Model Magic and using Creative Paperclay instead. There's not much of a price difference, and Paperclay lasts a LOT longer and you can revitalize it. With Model Magic, once you open that bag, you better use ALL of it up ASAP because it dries out so fast. There isn't even enough ample working time before the clay starts to dry out. I used to work with Model Magic a lot, but then when I discovered Paperclay, I never went back.

I've found that I need to let Model Magic sit for a day, sometimes 2 to let it fully dry.

Mod Podge is not likely to improve Model Magic's sandability whatsoever. It is not like you're putting some thick layer over it that gets sanded instead. Paperclay, on the other hand, is REALLY easy to sand and make smooth.

Model Magic tends to be kinda heavy. From my own experience, I don't see it staying when glued to fabric. But honestly, if you do that then you won't be able to -wash- your garment afterward. It'd be better to use a pin back or velcro to make it removeable.

Wet Model Magic really does not stick to dry Model Magic. So, patching doesn't work well either. And because it's so hard to sand, even if you can get it to stick, you just end up with this bizarre wart growth on the surface that looks just as ugly. Paperclay does not have these problems.

Craft Foam

I heat mine with an embossing gun. It's Darice brand and it's blue. I got it on sale from Joann for under $20.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Zeixble View Post
Can't do wood and all that metal/really awesome alternatives
Wood is not as expensive as you think, so don't dismiss it so quickly.
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Unread 11-23-2012, 05:15 PM   #6
kaligoddess
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I use a regular old heat gun, not a 'craft' one because I didn't feel like paying a premium. I wear heat proof gloves, do it with plenty of ventilation and make sure it's on it's lowest setting (otherwise you have charred foam emitting toxic fumes, fun!) Most heat guns are pretty basic, but you'll want to get a fairly low temperature one unless you're planning to use it to strip paint, etc.

I've used the 'hold it over the burner' method when I only need to heat up a piece or two, but again, heat proof gloves or it can be painful. The oven made my house smell like hot foam, so if I use the toaster over I only run it in the garage with the door open (and I never use my craft oven for food).

I find MM doesn't stick to itself very well without a little adhesive. I usually just make the second piece to fit the first and glue it when it's dry. I've used just about every glue on it, but I always seal it up first. I've never found a way to keep it from cracking besides working quickly with it, as it cracks more if you manipulate a piece that's starting to dry out, and lightly sanding out the cracks from the dried piece with very fine sandpaper.

Edit: And yes, paper clay is awesome. I did most of my Kain costume with a combination of it and paper mache.
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Last edited by kaligoddess : 11-23-2012 at 05:17 PM.
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Unread 11-24-2012, 01:07 AM   #7
Zeixble
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Evil Bishounen View Post
Wood is not as expensive as you think, so don't dismiss it so quickly.
Actually it's because I can't chop up wood and stuff xD I could have my dad do it, but he's working a lot so >.<

Quote:
Originally Posted by Evil Bishounen View Post
I would recommend ditching Model Magic and using Creative Paperclay instead.
Where is the best place to buy paperclay (I live in Australia)? I'm guessing eBay but do you know any other websites that sell them? ^^
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Unread 11-24-2012, 01:16 AM   #8
Zeixble
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I found this clay (same brand as MM, but why the different name? I have no idea lol)

It's going okay.. so far
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Unread 11-24-2012, 01:55 AM   #9
Evil Bishounen
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Amazon ships internationally, and they've got Creative Paperclay listed on there by multiple sellers. The first result that comes up when I search it for "Creative Paperclay" is a Fulfilled-By-Amazon item.

Here's the product's company website, and it does say on their Contact Us page that they sell in Australia and New Zealand. You can contact them and ask about local sellers, which would save you the cost and time of international shipping.
http://www.paperclay.com/
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Unread 11-24-2012, 02:24 AM   #10
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Thanks for that
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Unread 11-25-2012, 12:39 AM   #11
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I beg to differ in regards to wet sanding mod podge. If you want to make the surface of craft foam smooth, it's the way to go. You can get a perfectly smooth finish if you wet sand after several layers. I would go upwards of 6. Put them on with a foam brush. Put on each layer after the first dries clear. Let it dry overnight before wet sanding it. Go in a circular motion.

Don't use this as a finish however. Do this BEFORE YOU PAINT or you'll get that cloudy surface over your nice paint job. I would finish it with a spray acrylic.

Model Magic should be sanded before applying the modpodge. Follow the same rules as with the craft foam but be more careful. Sand it dry and use a small grit. Be gentle with your motions else you sand too much away. BE CAREFUL. Once it's sanded, give it several light coats of mod podge and only sand where there are streaks.
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Unread 11-25-2012, 07:50 AM   #12
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http://www.decoart.com/cgi-bin/Products.cgi?MagiKote

This stuff - awesome for coating styrofoam. It seals the surface and makes it hard so you can sand it. If you sand regular styrofoam you'll get a mess.
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Unread 12-02-2012, 07:02 PM   #13
Zeixble
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Thanks guys!
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