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Unread 11-13-2012, 12:53 AM   #1
Zeixble
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Exclamation Black Widow Bishoujo (Marvel) Belt & Bracers

Hi guys,

I'm planning to cosplay Black Widow Bishoujo version, and I need help on how to make the belt and the bracers.

http://www.kollectablekaos.com.au/im...ackWidow_L.jpg

For the belt, I just plan on sticking the round things on a thin black belt but I'm not sure how to make the round parts.

Also, the bracers, what do I make them out of? I plan on sticking them on a tight bracelet of some sort.
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Unread 11-19-2012, 03:25 AM   #2
StabbityBlkMage
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A couple of our friends have done cos similar to this one. For their bracers they used a wooden dowel cut to the length necessary, then glued it to a bracelet. Easy cheesy.

The belt was more of a nuisance and each disc was cut from wood then sanded to shape (domed). Finally it was all glued to an existing belt.

Not really hard, just a lot of fine sanding.

Good Luck!
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Unread 11-19-2012, 11:31 AM   #3
nathancarter
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Seems like the discs would be pretty easy for a novice casting project. You could cast them out of just about anything - hot glue, latex, resin.
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Unread 11-22-2012, 05:33 AM   #4
Zeixble
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I've heard of people using wood, but I can't really do that xD

I'm planning on using Model Magic/some sort of clay, will that work? :S
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Unread 11-22-2012, 02:24 PM   #5
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Most likely. I'd recommend getting some sort of wood, plastic disc to guide the clay being perfectly circular. At least for me it is very difficult to sculpt perfect circles without a guide. I had to put hard circle guides on my vac bucks to get good half and full circles.

Thankfully I'm pretty sure that craft stores (Joann's, Michael's, etc) sell wood discs in the diameter necessary. But yeah in cos there are usually a multitude of ways to do things and sculpting the belt is totally viable.

Edit: I'd also recommend not using model magic, it tends to shrink a lot and is not very sturdy. For a few extra dollars you can use apoxie sculpt which is one of those, imo, game changing cos materials that everyone should have experience with. Seriously, it's some easy to use and awesome stuff.

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Unread 11-24-2012, 05:11 AM   #6
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Is apoxie sculpt light when it dries? I've also heard of paperclay but I think it's a bit heavy?
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Unread 11-24-2012, 05:53 AM   #7
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Paperclay dries lightweight, it's the moisture in the fresh clay that weighs.

I have a plague doctor mask with a huge beak made from paper mache and paperclay, and it weighs next to nothing. Paperclay is also easy to use and dry-sands well & you can always wet any imperfections and fix them. Just remember to seal the finished item well so it no longer absorbs moisture (coats of pva glue, then acrylic paint worked for me). You maybe want some kind of a base under paper clay too so it doesn't warp while drying. An oval shape cut from cardstock should be enough to use as base for the disks, tho. c:

Apoxie sculpt is pretty lightweight too, but I think it's quite a bit more expensive, so I wouldn't make too large props out of it without them having some kind of base. I use it to fix dents&impercfections and to sculpt miniatures, for big projects it isn't cost-effective.

Last edited by cybernova : 11-24-2012 at 06:02 AM.
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Unread 11-24-2012, 08:06 AM   #8
Zeixble
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Would "wet" paperclay stick to dry paperclay? o.o

Same question goes for apoxie
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Unread 11-24-2012, 08:14 AM   #9
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Also: Would I need to make a base for the paper clay to mold onto? Like, covering a half-dome styrofoam with plastic wrap then molding the paper clay on it. Once dry, simply remove the paper clay (will it be sturdy? and will it hold the shape?).

Or can I simply just mold a half-dome out of the paper clay like using model magic?
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Unread 11-24-2012, 01:40 PM   #10
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Apoxie sticks to everything that's not wet, pretty much, so it's advisable to wet your tools and use gloves when working with it. And it sticks very well if the two parts are mixed correctly, I have had little apoxie bits stuck to my floor for months now.

Yup, wet paperclay sticks to dry paperclay. All in all, paperclay acts somewhat close to how waterbased clay (the "natural" kind) acts: it's air-drying tho waterbased clay needs to be fired whereas paperclay doesn't, it can be modelled similarly and dry(ing) clay can be revived with small amounts water to get it supple again as long as it's not too dry. Adding wet clay to dried clay works similarly too, you just wet the drier surface a little to make sure the fresh clay sticks real well.

You don't have to use a base shape for paperclay, but a sturdy base, cardstock etc, can be useful if you want the bottom of the piece to remain flat and not warp, in case you need to move it around while it's drying. Using only paperclay works too.

You can also use the styrofoam shape and remove it, the sturdiness depends on how thick the paperclay dome is. It has to be fully dry when you remove it to ensure it doesn't warp, so wait around 24 hours before removing it.

Paperclay is pretty sturdy, it may crack and usually has little cracks after sanding which can be filled with fresh paper clay or just painted/glue-coated over. I have dropped the mask I mentioned a couple of times and it's in perfect shape, at least on the surface.

Here's a couple of useful tutorials on paperclay:

http://jiajem.com/tutorials/armor/ (step 5 onward, introduces the material pretty well, good tips)

http://fav.me/d3ibl08 (good tips)

http://bjdmagazine.com/2011/02/11/tu...linda-macario/ (this uses a polystyrene core, seems to work well)

Anyway, the pva (white) glue sealing for paperclay I mentioned is optional, seems that people have gotten good results with just paint (primer first). But I like the sturdiness the glue seems to give, it feels less prone to cracking somehow.
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Unread 11-24-2012, 07:56 PM   #11
Zeixble
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Oh okay xD Will paper clay stick to fabric? :3 I have another project for next year that I'll be needing paper clay for xD
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