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[Ani_BEE]

This is the dress in question.

http://gothicmoomin.files.wordpress....1x21-02-06.jpg
http://gothicmoomin.files.wordpress....2-01.jpg?w=474
http://24.media.tumblr.com/tumblr_m9...ur4wo4_500.jpg
http://s820.beta.photobucket.com/use...laugh.jpg.html
http://s820.beta.photobucket.com/use...tml?sort=3&o=3
http://feministfiction.com/wp-conten...506224735.jpeg
http://24.media.tumblr.com/tumblr_mb...vfxo1_1280.png
http://www.fanpop.com/clubs/once-upo...l-queen-fanart
http://www.fanpop.com/clubs/once-upo...ve-ouat-fanart
http://images6.fanpop.com/image/phot...22-500-525.png
http://images6.fanpop.com/image/phot...2-768-1024.png
http://www.fanpop.com/clubs/once-upo...spoilers-photo
http://www.fanpop.com/clubs/once-upon-a-time/photos/153


The skirt seems to be two layered like this one.
http://mccallpattern.mccall.com/m609...hp?page_id=915
http://www.simplicity.com/p-2098-costumes.aspx#t-0



The top/jacket I'm not sure what's going on!

I found basic jacket pattern with a squared shoulder.
http://voguepatterns.mccall.com/v833...hp?page_id=262
http://voguepatterns.mccall.com/v101...hp?page_id=865
http://voguepatterns.mccall.com/v113...hp?page_id=865
http://mccallpattern.mccall.com/m617...hp?page_id=115
http://voguepatterns.mccall.com/v886...hp?page_id=863
http://voguepatterns.mccall.com/v113...hp?page_id=865

But I'm wondering id this is closer to a bodice style top.
http://butterick.mccall.com/b4669-pr...hp?page_id=385
http://butterick.mccall.com/b5440-pr...hp?page_id=965


Also do you think that she wearing corset underneath the jacket for the "bra section" that is exposed.


The collar of the top/jacket looks like it's been wired and sew into it.

[Penlowe]

You are on the right track!
The top right corset is going to be the best shape for the bodice, but adding sleeves will be the hard part. I'd go look for 80's vintage suit jacket pattern to splice the sleeves on because of those massive shoulder pads. That loose lower bit is called a peplum.

the simplicity historical pattern will take care of the skirts for sure.

The collar more than likely contains a material called buckram. Buckram is used in hats and other things where you want a rigid shape, but not sharp on the edges. Look for millinery suppliers for that, it's expensive, but you don't need more than an 18" square.

[Ani_BEE]

This pattern then with expanding the back panel wider in the should/arm area. Probably add a seam down the middle
http://butterick.mccall.com/b4669-pr...hp?page_id=385
Here's another one.
http://www.folkwear.com/267.html

So a peplum is like the "skirt" bit at the waist.

I think I can get buckram locally actually.

Any idea where I can find jacket 80'd patterns. lol
Would this work?
https://www.sewingpatterns.com/sub_item.php?item_num=7151bur&model=7151bur&new_ca tegory=all_products&view=gallery&brand=Burda&categ ory=all_products&pageGoto=0&pageFormat=3|186|186&p ageCount=18&search=&return=yes


Also interesting quest but how do you think it closes at the front and it's smooth at the back? The black knot ties look like it's just for decoration.


Edit found 1 more option but it don't com in my size and the last time I enlarged a size 20 pattern it was a nightmare. I'm a size 22/24 in vogue/McCall/Buterwick

http://voguepatterns.mccall.com/v835...hp?page_id=857

[Penlowe]

Yes, I think it closes in the front. I also thing the little curves that come up over the breasts are a separate piece, a fancy bra if you will.

A placket closure is likely how this goes together. Instead of the two pieces that meet front & center having hooks & eyes or buttons or whatever on their edges, the hooks & eyes are well inside (usually on the left as most people are right handed) on the body of the bodice and a placket. Sort of like a double breasted coat. This makes for a smoother closure, adds a bit more rigidity to the bodice as the placket itself is often boned, and a smoother profile to the whole bodice.

A placket is a flap of fabric that goes behind a closure. There is one inside every pair of jeans if you want to look at something for reference.

[Ani_BEE]

On last question. What are the knot closers call.

[cpumroy]

Sorry to just jump in here like this, but the little knot closures are called "frogs." It's just what you described: a two-part closure with a knot on one side and a loop on the other. Since the space you're closing isn't too big, the five frogs pictured on her jacket should be enough. If you're worried it'll come apart, a couple hooks and eyes just underneath should do the trick.

[Penlowe]

No need to apologize You got here with the right answer faster.

Yes, frogs tend to be decorative because sometimes they aren't as strong as buttons. I'd use something substantial and hidden for the structure of closing the bodice, then the frogs just for pretty and holding the two front flaps closed.

[Ani_BEE]

Sounds good to me. I've used hooks before for Mami but I'd love to use a zipper this time for ease of getting into it (the hook are hard to do by yourself. lol )

[Penlowe]

?? I'd have this bodice open in the front, not bother with a back zipper that will ruin the illusion. I hate zippers for that very reason "oh look a fairy! [sees zipper] ...costume"

[Ani_BEE]

Nope I meant a zipper up the front instead of hooks. The back is perfectly smooth.

[Penlowe]

but... hiding it right? if you try to put it front & center the then cover it it will cause bulk and/ or show. Put it to the side on a placket.

[Ani_BEE]

That's the idea.

[Penlowe]

excellent!
I still hate zippers though. childhood trauma and all that.

[Ani_BEE]

lol I struggle with front hooks myself.

[Ani_BEE]

Maybe a silly question but what style of hoop skirt you you think she is wearing.

http://gothicmoomin.files.wordpress....1x21-02-06.jpg
http://www.fanpop.com/clubs/once-upo...spoilers-photo

I'm thinking an A line one with a train.