Go Back   Cosplay.com > Cosplay Construction > Sewing/Fabric Craft

Reply
Thread Tools Rate Thread
Unread 02-17-2013, 06:41 PM   #1
trmbngrl
Britt
 
trmbngrl's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Posts: 226
Pants Yoke Finishing?

Hello all! I'm almost done with an awesome pair of pants for my boyfriend, but I'm having real trouble reading the super complicated directions on the pattern. I am just stuck with how I am going to logistically finish the top since it has a yoke attached and it is slightly gathered below that to give the pants a bit of poof. I have the outside of the yoke attached, and I am just wondering if anyone has any tips on how to finish near the buttons in the front and make it sturdy.
Here's the pants look I am going for:

And here's what I have so far (other than adding elastic to the bottom of the leg just now for the poof:

I don't even know if this photo will work, but I mostly just don't understand how to finish the yoke in the front off!

Last edited by trmbngrl : 02-17-2013 at 07:05 PM.
trmbngrl is offline   Reply With Quote
 
Unread 02-18-2013, 12:21 AM   #2
Evil Bishounen
Hail to the King
 
Evil Bishounen's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2003
Posts: 1,245
YEAH Noah's Ark Circus =)

It's a bit difficult to see what's going on in the photo, since the fabric is black and the photo contrast is fairly high.... What's the brand and style number of the pattern?

It looks like this yoke is basically a really wide, fitted waistband, not a yoke piece that will have a waistband attached along the top edge? Does the fly stop when it reaches the bottom of the yoke/waistband? (This is normal on men's pants.)

When I do a waistband, I interface it, and I sew it as a piece that's self-finishing. In other words, I pin it right-sides together, stitch the edges shut, clip the corners, and then turn it right side out again and iron. With a really wide waistband like this, the whole piece is going to be curved so it can't be done as a piece that folds down on itself. In that case, I'd cut a totally separate lining piece for it to accommodate that approach.
__________________
FF9 cosplay? Hit me up!

2014: Anime Los Angeles and whatever else falls into my lap

I now have a Tumblr. Sometimes I use it.
Evil Bishounen is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 02-18-2013, 11:35 PM   #3
trmbngrl
Britt
 
trmbngrl's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Posts: 226
Quote:
Originally Posted by Evil Bishounen View Post
YEAH Noah's Ark Circus =)

It's a bit difficult to see what's going on in the photo, since the fabric is black and the photo contrast is fairly high.... What's the brand and style number of the pattern?

It looks like this yoke is basically a really wide, fitted waistband, not a yoke piece that will have a waistband attached along the top edge? Does the fly stop when it reaches the bottom of the yoke/waistband? (This is normal on men's pants.)

When I do a waistband, I interface it, and I sew it as a piece that's self-finishing. In other words, I pin it right-sides together, stitch the edges shut, clip the corners, and then turn it right side out again and iron. With a really wide waistband like this, the whole piece is going to be curved so it can't be done as a piece that folds down on itself. In that case, I'd cut a totally separate lining piece for it to accommodate that approach.
Yeah I know that picture really didn't show much, I couldn't quite get it to show up well. .__.
But it is like a wide fitted waistband as you said, acting to keep the pants up and give a nice clean top. It luckily has room for only one button on the fly, and the pattern called for snaps to keep the yoke together. I have no clue if that is going to be strong enough to keep it up, I got a bit done on it but it is still a bit funky figuring out how to sew the fly down with the yoke matching up.
trmbngrl is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 02-18-2013, 11:48 PM   #4
Evil Bishounen
Hail to the King
 
Evil Bishounen's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2003
Posts: 1,245
Well, when constructing fly-front pants, the proper sequence is to sew the crotch fly fairly early in the process, and the waistband isn't attached until after the fly is done. It sounds like you attached the waistband first and are now trying to sew the fly in after the fact, which will make things a bit more awkward.

Regarding snaps: use larger snaps, and the more you use, the stronger the hold will be. 5 snaps will be better than only one or two.

Alternatively, you could use those wide hooks and eyes that are 3/8" to 1/2" wide. Normally I don't like hook and eyes, but the waistband of close-fitting pants is one of the places I will use them. Hook-and-eyes rely on tension to stay fastened, and there will be tension present in that area. Snaps don't do as well under tension.

Heavy-duty velcro is another option. Velcro WILL keep that front edge stiff, if that's your worry.
__________________
FF9 cosplay? Hit me up!

2014: Anime Los Angeles and whatever else falls into my lap

I now have a Tumblr. Sometimes I use it.
Evil Bishounen is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 02-19-2013, 12:10 AM   #5
trmbngrl
Britt
 
trmbngrl's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Posts: 226
Quote:
Originally Posted by Evil Bishounen View Post
Well, when constructing fly-front pants, the proper sequence is to sew the crotch fly fairly early in the process, and the waistband isn't attached until after the fly is done. It sounds like you attached the waistband first and are now trying to sew the fly in after the fact, which will make things a bit more awkward.

Regarding snaps: use larger snaps, and the more you use, the stronger the hold will be. 5 snaps will be better than only one or two.

Alternatively, you could use those wide hooks and eyes that are 3/8" to 1/2" wide. Normally I don't like hook and eyes, but the waistband of close-fitting pants is one of the places I will use them. Hook-and-eyes rely on tension to stay fastened, and there will be tension present in that area. Snaps don't do as well under tension.

Heavy-duty velcro is another option. Velcro WILL keep that front edge stiff, if that's your worry.
Gotcha. I think I have what I need to make it work now!!
I'll just have to live with the fact that I didn't sew the fly quite right this time. At least it is black and not going to show how crooked it is there since it is quite baggy.
Thanks so much :3
trmbngrl is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 02-19-2013, 12:40 AM   #6
Evil Bishounen
Hail to the King
 
Evil Bishounen's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2003
Posts: 1,245
No problem. Also, Joker has a lot of stuff in that area to take the eye away from any imperfections in the black, undermost layer, so it likely won't be noticed if the waistband is slightly crooked - there's the tunic, the edges of his shirt hanging out from under the tunic, those weird ruffle things hanging down, etc.
__________________
FF9 cosplay? Hit me up!

2014: Anime Los Angeles and whatever else falls into my lap

I now have a Tumblr. Sometimes I use it.
Evil Bishounen is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools
Rate This Thread
Rate This Thread:

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

vB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Forum Jump


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 10:24 PM.


Copyright 2002-2013 Cosplay.com, LLC. All Rights Reserved.
All comments and posts in our forums are the opinion of the respective poster.