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Unread 05-08-2013, 12:33 AM   #1
may55
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Amazon Pandora - Spandex Lining Help

So I am doing Amazon Pandora from Kid Icarus: Uprising (Reference :http://i.imgur.com/8T7EB.jpg )
(the back portion to clarify (because I couldn't find any pictures) is like a back of a halter)

So I'm making the entire thing out of spandex, and it was easier to use than I thought it would be.

I currently have 2 patterns for the top of the main body portion. One has seems on the side (and most likely in the back, but can be avoided if necessary) and the other has no seams at all. The purple parts will be put in once the mainframe of the white is done.

I don't have any spare spandex fabric and would just like to hear other's opinions about seams and if that would make any affect on how the costume looks. So which would be the better choice in terms of spandex fabric?
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Unread 05-08-2013, 01:47 AM   #2
Kelley
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I'm a little confused.

For her top in that picture I wouldn't use a spandex bodysuit at all - it won't stay up on its own no matter how many seams you have, it will be thin and floppy and deform a lot.

If you want to use the spandex fabric, I'd use it over a layer of sturdier fabric so that it will actually stay on and not lose its shape. I would probably look at "bustier" patterns or even use the duct-tape method to make your own pattern the "easy way" from scratch !

If you use spandex with no base you need to make a "breast plate" out of Worbla or something and glue/tack the fabric to it - otherwise you're going to get mono-boob. I'd personally rather use a sturdier under-fabric and make the top part have "cups" instead - the design is such that you could even make it have shaped cups with just the white and purple fabric if you used a sturdy fabric throughout the costume as the top layer.

As for the two patterns you have, there HAS to be seams on the second one. Unless you're custom-knitting something from scratch it needs seams since you're making it out of a big rectangle of fabric and sewing it together.

If I wanted to keep it spandex, I might suggest using a bra built-in to the costume so you could shape it over that. I would use at least side seams - but I would ideally want to make my own pattern for this since it's not a body-suit type garment. If you've never made patterns before look for "duct tape corset pattern" - it will show you how to make a pattern without having to know how to draft one - you just need someone to wrap you and scissors.
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Unread 05-08-2013, 02:22 AM   #3
may55
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Thanks for the advice. I will add a few things because as usual I always am missing something in my description (as well as more questions >.< sorry )

As you suggested in terms of the breast plate, I forgot to mention there is an under section to it much like a bikini swim suit design. This will be an under layer for the top. Actually the whole cosplay will be double layered due to the transparency of the spandex on my skin.

Also both patterns I have made myself. I work off of patterns that I have used and that fit me to size (in this case it is a bathing suit) and then make a new pattern altering what needs to be done for the cosplay/outfit. I just have never made anything out of spandex before so I was unsure about seams (I also thought it would look bad with seams ... but that may also be because of working with spandex).

In terms of the sturdier fabric what would you suggest?
Would it be possible to still use the fabric over the duct tape corset? Or would you recommend just doing this cosplay out of duct tape? Also, would the corset hold with the holes in them?

Again, sorry for all the questions. ><
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Unread 05-08-2013, 02:46 AM   #4
Kelley
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The duct-tape corset idea isn't something you would wear - it is just a way to make a pattern easily - you "discard" the actual duct tape after getting the pattern from it.

Duct tape would actually hold better than spandex, but I doubt you'd want the costume to look like it was made out of duct tape ?

I can't picture the under-layer you describe so I'm not sure what to think about it.

If I was making the costume, I would probably use a plain-weave silk or a silk-cotton blend as the outer layer (it's really up to artistic interpretation - a plain but thick cotton would give a nice totally matte look but I get a fancier impression from the art, but that's just me. I feel you could also go a completely different direction and make it all armor) with cotton duck underneath to help shape and support and reduce strain on the outside fabric - the same would apply to if the outside is spandex.

If you've ever seen people who "cut out" a design out of a spandex body-suit you'll see that it deforms and gapes - it's not very flattering. To combat this you'd at least want to have some kind of interfacing along the parts that are cut out so those lines can't move. You'd want to treat the spandex like a non-stretch fabric because taking much advantage of the stretch would start to cause those cut-outs and such to deform and even with interfacing they would still start to pull. You could also build it so that there are nude panels in order to keep the correct shape and have the stretch be functional. The costume is so well-formed around the breasts, though, it's not like a leotard would be, the bathing suits that are like that are basically bras - maybe that's what you're planning ?

Using a bathing suit pattern could lead to the issue of the cut-outs deforming unless you replace them with nude fabric since bathing suits take advantage of the stretch in a fabric. It depends on what you want to do.
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Unread 05-09-2013, 01:21 AM   #5
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I ended up trying my design of the leotard/swimsuit method (1 seam on each side of the body) today and cut the holes in the appropriate places. Because I made the design not very tight, the cuts actually stayed. They flopped a bit, but it was nothing a little body adhesive couldn't fix. I did it this morning and have been wearing it all day, to my family's discontent.

I hadn't found problems with the spandex. Mind you, I have only the lining on, without the top decorative layer. The only thing I needed to add was the body glue adhesive (which I knew I would need for the arms of the cosplay anyway). It did gape a bit but I didn't notice it much. Only problems were with bunching when I sat down, but all clothing does that.
Pictures : http://www.cosplay.com/photo/3381998/ http://www.cosplay.com/photo/3382000/
Maybe it was because the material was only 6% or 10% spandex. Or that I made the leotard to use less stretch. I have no idea, but maybe that is what fixed the problem that may have arose.

Thank you though, Kelley. I never knew one could use the duct tape to make patterns. I learned from my family how to make patterns from just measurements, but this is much more fun and easier. Most likely I will do this for the breast plate, which might just be me making a fancy looking bra for it.
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Unread 05-09-2013, 02:10 AM   #6
Kelley
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I'd want to use interfacing or something around the hole edges just to have a cleaner look and keep it from gaping. The fact that the pattern isn't taking great advantage of the stretch in the fabric helps it from gaping, but it's still doing it a bit and I guess I'd personally rather have the costume do the work than rely on glue.

If you can draft patterns on paper you don't really need to rely on the duct tape method. But it can help if you need to figure out something new or if your flat-drafted patterns just are not working.
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Disclaimer : This post written by a Grumpy Old Man

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- Remaking Ser Loras doublet.
- Luke Skywalker, A New Hope
- Wind Waker starter costume in swim material
Eventually: Paul from Dune, Faramir, Harry Sullivan
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Unread 05-09-2013, 02:46 AM   #7
may55
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Well the thing I did today was very rough and not what I will be using. I just wanted to see how the fabric would hold up if it had the hole and if it could withstand at least one day (without repairs) and see what the range of motions I could do while observing the stretch.
I plan to do a seam on everything for the final product. The glue was just so to make the seams more straighter but it is almost the same without the glue. I will try it without the glue first and only add it if it is completely necessary.

True, but it is also a lot more fun. I have tried to push for a dress form for the past few years, and found out about the duct tape version. I have no one to put the time and effort into it, so I will have to wait until later in the summer. I will definitely have one for both me and my mom this year though, since she is planning on going to a costume con with me and wants to cosplay!
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