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Unread 02-15-2013, 11:06 AM   #1
Neaera
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2-colored cloak

Hello! Last year i sewed for the first time after you guys gave me some advice and it really worked out, so i hope you can help me with my next cosplay too.

I'll be cosplaying Silvers Rayleigh.
http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_YF1tNfQVN8...I/s1600/15.jpg

The only problem is the cloak. I can't find one that is similar to Rayleigh's. So ... is it hard to sew one? Especially one that has 2 different colors?

Are there any good tutorials?
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Unread 02-15-2013, 10:17 PM   #2
CapsuleCorp
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Don't worry, cloaks are easy. And a yay for Rayleigh!

You can find patterns for cloaks pretty much anywhere and everywhere. Most of the main pattern companies have cloak patterns, with and without hoods, and they're available year-round even though the better patterns for character cloaks tend to be the Halloween patterns. Seriously. Kinsale cloaks are gorgeous historical pieces but they're way too huge for most character cloaks.

Check out any of the pattern companies, especially the ones that go on sale for 99 cents at least once a month. Look for one that already has a hood or the option for a hood first, before thinking about adding a hood to a pattern that only has collar options, as it can sometimes be tricky fitting a hood where a collar should go. What you're doing for Rayleigh is just lining the cloak in a contrast color. So, look for a pattern that specifically makes a LINED cloak. Not that putting a lining on a cloak is hard, but it's much easier to factor in fabric costs and yardage when you're a beginner and working directly from the pattern.

Basically what you'll be doing is making two cloaks, one white/gray, one tan, and sewing them together. But hemming lined cloaks can be done a couple of different ways. Go with whatever the pattern says unless it's confusing, then we can talk you through easier ways.
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Unread 02-16-2013, 08:41 AM   #3
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Yup, agree with CC on all of it. That particular cloak might be a little harder to find as it is more fitted through the shoulders like a 1880's -1900 ish style as opposed to a typical half circle non-fitted costume type. BUT if you find the shape, it's more likely to be a lined variety. Definitely check Butterick's historical patterns.
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Unread 02-16-2013, 10:31 AM   #4
Neaera
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Okay, thanks again! I guess i'll check out some stores in our town to see if they got some patterns i could use.

What exactly do you mean by lined Cloak?

I will probably post again when i need help with sewing.^^
Next thing would be the shirt Rayleigh is wearing. I mean, i never saw a shirt like that. I think i will just buy a shirt in the right collar, remove the collar and hope that it works out.
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Unread 02-16-2013, 12:32 PM   #5
Evil Bishounen
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lined cloak = a cloak with lining. Your garment is 2 layers, not just one.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lining_%28sewing%29

It's a very common type of construction method that helps protect seam edges, makes certain types of garments easier to wear, can provide warmth (depending on the type of fabric used), or just provide style to the design. If the lining is a contrasting color, then it gives your garment a two-tone effect: the outside is one color, and the inside is a different color.

Lining garments is a technique you'll definitely need to learn to do if you're getting into sewing. Fortunately, a cloak is one of the easiest projects for learning it.
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Unread 02-28-2013, 02:48 PM   #6
Neaera
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Alright, i have a pattern now.

So, i'll get a sewing machine next week and i'm looking for the right fabric now. Do you have any suggestions?

And does anyone know how that kind of shirt is called that Rayleigh is wearing?
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Unread 02-28-2013, 10:56 PM   #7
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It's just a button-down with long sleeves. Men's patterns will have all kinds of variations, you don't have to go all out for a dress shirt with button plackets and weird sewing techniques. A very basic casual men's shirt pattern should do.

For fabric, cotton twill is going to give you a lot of weight and drape without being too terribly expensive. And it's also very easy to work with. AND washable. Once you pre-wash your fabric, you won't have any issues with shrinkage later if you need to wash the cloak.
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Unread 03-01-2013, 09:37 AM   #8
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That's the problem with the shirt, i can't find something that resembles Rayleigh's. A normal shirt has a collar, pockets and that ... thing on the arms/hands (i don't even know how to call that part in german).
And i have yet to find a pattern that is similar. But i'll keep looking. Have an advice for a fabric here?

Would you suggest cotton for the lining as well?

Oh and thanks for the help. It's appreciated.
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Unread 03-01-2013, 10:15 PM   #9
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I'm mental blanking on the right word for it, but you might be able to find something like a collarless button down shirt. C'mon brain. Work.


Like this http://www.etsy.com/listing/11168578...own-collarless with the cuffs removed from the sleeve and the pocket removed.
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Unread 03-10-2013, 12:18 PM   #10
Neaera
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I still don't know if i should use fleece as fabric or cotton. And what fabric i should use for the lining. Wouldn't fleece be better visually?
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Unread 03-11-2013, 01:59 PM   #11
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In my opinion, fleece wouldn't look nearly as good (and would be REALLY heavy with that extra lining!!) as a plain cotton fabric. But that being said, I have never seen the show your character is from, and so I don't know it the cloak should be textured or not.

The lining should be he same sort of fabric as the white side, just in another color!
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Unread 03-13-2013, 01:07 AM   #12
Neaera
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Alright, thanks. It's hard to tell from the anime or manga which fabric would be the most fitting, but looking at other cosplays ... i guess cotton really is the best choice.
Okay, i'll get the sewing machine and the fabric tomorrow and start with the cloak. I hope it turns out well.

Thank again for all of your advice!
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Unread 03-13-2013, 05:06 PM   #13
Syagria
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As for a shirt pattern, keep in mind that you don't have to include things like a breast pocket, or even cuffs. Leave the cuffs off and just lengthen the sleeve.

You may want to read the tutorial about reading patterns - it's stickied at the top of the forum.
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Unread 05-14-2013, 11:31 AM   #14
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Hello,

so all i have left to do is sew all the pieces together. There are 8 pieces i have to sew, 2 for the front and 2 for the back (all white) and a green lining piece for every part. The problem is i don't really know the best way to integrate the lining.

Should i sew the lining to each individual part and after that sew them all together? Or do i make a complete lining and complete white coat and then sew these 2 parts together? I don't really know how to explain it, i hope you know what i mean ...
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Unread 05-16-2013, 10:53 AM   #15
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Quote:
make a complete lining and complete white coat and then sew these 2 parts together
this is the typical method for lined garments. I'll break it down into steps
1. sew the cloak parts together at the vertical seams. [if there is a hood, sew it together at it's seams, but NOT to the body of the cloak]
2. sew the lining pieces together in all the same places you just sewed the matching cloak pieces together. [same for the hood]
3. sew the cloak to the lining- right sides together- at the front opening and across the bottom hem. I start at the top of the neck, go down the front, all the way around the bottom, then back up the other front side. It's one loooooong continuous seam.
4. If there is a hood, sew the lining to the hood- right sides together- around the front (face part) opening.
5. Clip your seams, turn right side out, press. Do this on both pieces.
6. sew the hood to the body of the cape attaching the outer fabric ONLY. This leaves a weird raw edged lining mouth of sorts. Fold the lining in ad sew it closed. I prefer to do this last seam by hand as it allows for the smoothest seam across the back of your neck.
6A (no hood). Tuck in and press the raw edges of the lining and outer fabric and sew. Again, I still prefer to do this last seam by hand, because it still sits on the back of your neck.
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