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Unread 07-17-2013, 07:53 PM   #1
Cellomanlove
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Bunching fabric at the waist

Hi! I'm currently working on a bodice for Sayaka's maid outfit LINK
I started by creating a basic sloper pattern and then adjust the fit.
My problem is, that the fabric in the back is bunching at the waist. Is there any way to fix this? Or will adding a skirt help weigh it down?

Here's a picture of the problem: LINK

Thank you!
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Unread 07-21-2013, 10:24 AM   #2
mcdkat
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Unfortunately I cannot really see the problem. Are you afraid it is too full in the waist? One thing you can do is run a bit of elastic at the waist to make it fit well or put in some darts.

This dart tutorial may help. http://www.coletterie.com/tutorials-...l-sewing-darts

Good luck!
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Unread 07-21-2013, 11:44 AM   #3
Evil Bishounen
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I am very familiar with this problem. You have a swayback.

A swayback happens when your front torso is longer than your back torso. Or, to put it another way, your center back length is too long.

Adding a skirt or other anchor will NOT fix it. You will still have bunchy fabric back there. At worst, it'll pull it straight and it'll look like your butt slope begins at the middle of your back.

The quickest fix is to run a horizontal dart along the back waist, so that you're taking in the greatest amount in the center and it tapers to nothing at the side seams. This way, it doesn't affect the length of the side seam in the back and you don't have to do anything to the front.

There's another, slightly more complicated way to approach it if you're comfortable with flat pattern manipulation. Here's an article that delves into the entire problem:
http://buzzybeesworld.blogspot.com/2...-analysis.html
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Unread 07-21-2013, 12:18 PM   #4
Kelley
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Yep, you basically take out a "fish" shape at the back (it's really more of a football, but for some reason it gets called a fish in tailoring, don't look at me). If this is just a trial run, you can sew in the changes and then use the outcome for a cleaner final pattern.
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Unread 07-21-2013, 12:44 PM   #5
Cellomanlove
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Thank you so much for your help, guys! I'm glad there's an easy fix for this!!
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Unread 07-21-2013, 11:45 PM   #6
Kelley
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A good thing to learn is that when you make a trial run you can pinch in the fabric anywhere or is an issue - it doesn't matter if there's a name or tutorial for it. Then you use the resultant fitting garment to make a new pattern. You don't have to keep all the weird seams and such and you can move them around in your second draft. The important thing is that it becomes a relatively flat piece after you take the trial and cut in where you want the final days and such to be or not be. For instance, after sewing in the "fish" you can take the trial and use it to create a flat pattern that doesn't have a seam in that area.
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